It's time to get the skate out and take a few jumps! What you need is a ramp to do those jumps. You can build one that will ensure you perform quality stunts.
Steps
Step 1. Decide what you want to build
There are many sites that have free projects, and there are others where you can buy them. Find the free ones, they're as good as (if not better) than the ones for sale, and you'll almost always need power tools for wooden ramps.
Step 2. Find a place to keep it
If you have a place to keep it permanently, great! Otherwise, make a smaller ramp that you can store in the garage or move and cover.
Step 3. Draw it:
how big do you want the jump to be? How much wood do you have, assuming you have the right kind of wood? Wood (or plywood) treated for outdoors is the best material to use for ramps that are to be kept outdoors. However, if you can keep your ramp indoors or need it to be lightweight to be portable, use untreated wood, which will reduce weight and cost. Otherwise you will have to improvise with what you have. You have to decide if you want a mini ramp (a small version of a half pipe). Be creative, but practical. If you have any doubts about the design, contact the nearest shop or skate park… they deal with ramps all the time.
Think about the base size (how big will the bottom be?). Then add a few inches to the base for more depth on top. Calculate the dimensions. How long, wide and tall will it be? If it is a leap, it will probably be quite small
Step 4. Draw a base curve of your ramp on the plywood and add an extra flat part on top, a little lower and longer for the distance and a little higher for the height
Step 5. Cut three plywood panels once the curve is finished
If your jump is too long or you're worried about stamina, you can add more in between. Doing this tends to involve a lot of extra work. Don't start nailing yet. Think about where you want the laths supporting the curve to go, spaced no more than 30 cm from each other.
Step 6. Make grooves in the center of your plywood so that you can insert each lath where you will then nail it to each side
You need a flat surface to nail the last piece of plywood to. You need the thin part of the strips facing the curve, in order to have a nice smooth curve.
Step 7. Nail some 5x10cm thick laths to the back and inside of the plywood to keep it secure and solid
Add the battens on the inside (they need to be a little shorter if they fit inside), so you can nail through the plywood and into the batten.
Step 8. Decide where you want the battens (for the curve:
the support ones must be nailed to the plywood without grooves) in the center panel and cut the grooves. Draw the grooves on the other two panels (these will be the places where the edges of the battens will be nailed to the plywood).
Step 9. Nail the battens to the outer panels so that they line up with the center grooves, making sure they are also level
Step 10. Make sure it's solid
If it isn't, retrace your steps and add more supports or more plywood.
Step 11. Complete the front piece, which is the curve
Thick plywood doesn't fold well, so the front piece (the bend) will need to be thinner. Start nailing the bottom. If there is a small bump at the base, you can add more wood. Level the attack on the ground. Nail the curve to the 5x10 laths below the full height in multiple places, it will help make the curve even, and from the start nailing a few nails in each intersection ensures they go into the laths!
Step 12. Pin a sheet of plywood on top, and you're done
Enjoy your new skate ramp!
Advice
- If you have trouble because it tends to tilt, add battens or plywood to the back at 45 ° to prevent it from tilting, a bit like backside easels.
- To better visualize and position your ramp you can use 3D drawing programs to design your yard and place a model of the ramp; try the free Google Sketchup software. Some ramp designers also offer 3D plans to help you visualize the placement and build your ramp, such as www.buildaskateramp.com.
- Support any nail in the structure with a screw or two.
- For better results and a stronger ramp, take the time to use screws rather than nails. The vines avoid popping out over time. Who would ever want to trip over a protruding nail after jumping?
- For a good wooden ramp you need good wood. Don't take wood that has holes if you have to walk over them. If there are any rotten spots, it is a wood that will only bring bad jumps and trouble.
- To make a straighter ramp you can also do less curvature, or make a long triangle with supports through the center, and along the sides and in the middle!
- If you want a more finished look, add more plywood sheets to the back. It could be a launch pad for a table or a normal high ramp to get to a picnic table. Have fun!
- If you're using a table, you basically only need a sturdy box, or "table" shape, with plywood on top. Add support to the top and legs if you will also be using the ramp with a bike. To be sure, add a launch pad and that's it.
- Use professional projects from those eliminated by companies to have each step explained in detail.
- Adding a thin layer of wax can make your run on the ramp smoother, and also give a little bit of protection in the likely event of a fall.
Warnings
- There are special boards with off-road wheels and bearing protectors as well, if you want to be able to skate on the ground or in the sand.
- Do not expose the board to rain, it will also damage the bearings.
- Using a dirt ramp will make your bearings very dirty. Trust the wooden ramps.
- DO NOT go on dirt or sand! It is bad for bearings. Weed is good for practicing ollies.
- Never use nails on the running surface. It is very dangerous!
- As with any other extreme sport, make sure you have a safe space and a durable ramp. Taking the time to build the ramp correctly will result in better performance and greater safety.
- Always wear a helmet when jumping!
- Search the internet for professional ramp plans or order an instructional DVD. Search buildhalfpipes.com and learn how to do it well and without waste. Wood is not cheap.
