Installing drywall, also known as plaster or drywall, is an important part of building a thing. Before its spread, it took a long time to build walls suitable for drawings and posters. Now you can easily install drywall in a few hours, depending on the size of the room.
Steps
Method 1 of 6: Part One: Select the Drywall
Step 1. Remember that drywall is usually sold in sheets of 1, 20 x 2, 40 m
There are larger sheets, 1, 20 x 3, 60 m, but it is more difficult to install them and are, therefore, used by professionals. These larger sheets tend to break easily in transit, although they need less manpower because a larger sheet needs fewer joints to trace.
Drywall is usually installed horizontally but you can also install it vertically if you want
Step 2. Remember that the thickness ranges from 0.6cm to 1.5cm, but the most common measurement is 1.2cm
The 0.6 cm sheets are often superimposed on pre-existing plasterboard and not in new buildings. Check the building regulations in your area.
Step 3. Pay attention to the composition of the drywall
Makes it suitable for the environment in which it will be installed. For example, there are many products with moisture resistant compositions, called "green rock", which are ideal for wet areas such as garages and bathrooms. Before buying, evaluate at the relevant store.
Covering the whole house with "green rock" products can be overkill, but useful in very humid areas, such as bathrooms, as long as it is not used in showers and tubs. Drywall is not good for areas that tend to get wet. Better to use glass reinforced concrete around the shower and bathroom tiles
Method 2 of 6: Part Two: Inspect the installation site
Step 1. Prepare the area where you will install the drywall
Remove the old drywall, nails, screws, and anything that would prevent the new drywall from adhering to the posts.
Step 2. Search and repair hidden damage
Check for brick leaks, moisture, termites, or other issues that can make installation a problem. Don't be surprised to find steel rather than wooden beams. They are excellent, because steel is more resistant, termite and fireproof. The only difference with steel posts is the use of screws instead of nails to fix the drywall.
Step 3. Inspect the insulation around the posts
Use Kraft tape to repair cracks and thus maximize energy efficiency.
Step 4. Use the expanding foam to fill in the gaps and gaps on the exterior wall
Look for a permanent, rigid, non-shrinking, waterproof foam. Do not apply it around doors and windows.
Method 3 of 6: Part Three: Measure and Cut the Drywall for the Ceiling
Step 1. Measure from one corner, measure the drywall so that the end mates with a sturdy piece of the beam
Never leave a piece of drywall unsupported. The final piece of drywall must always be screwed to a rigid support or beam.
- If the drywall does not end on a rigid substrate, try this:
- Measure the center from the most distant support of the drywall and transfer the measurements to the drywall.
- Place a T-square along the drywall line and cut along the line drawn by the square.
- Cut away the pieces that cross the line.
- Check again if the drywall edge touches a hard piece or beam.
- Make sure the 5 screws are well spaced along the beam.
- Leave 1.5cm gap when screwing. Do not screw too much into the edge of the plasterboard.
- Drive the screws into the drywall but not so deeply that it breaks the surface.
- Other screws can help sometimes, but they are usually too many; they will require other material to screw which can be avoided.
- Try using a drywall spring screwdriver. They are specially designed to insert screws into drywall with precision, at the same depth, marking the screws where the drill must be stopped.
- Cut and moisten the tape with clean water first. However, you shouldn't get it too wet.
- Some manufacturers avoid punching the tapes, so they don't have perfect margins and therefore require a lot of extra filler and sand for a job well done. Buy what you think fits your budget.
- Many thin layers of putty will give you a better result. Have the patience to wait for them to dry.
- Do not apply putty on fresh connections. Let it dry for a day if you don't use quick-setting putty that dries in an hour. A good idea is to use pink putty that turns white when dry, so you know when it's ready.
Step 2. Put a drop of glue on each piece or beam the drywall rests on
Do this right before applying drywall..
Step 3. Lift the drywall towards the ceiling, starting at one corner
The margins must be perpendicular to the beams and tight to the wall.
Step 4. Insert 5 screws in a single line, on the middle of the drywall piece and in a single holder
Repeat the work for each support or beam underneath the plasterboard.
Step 5. Continue gluing, lifting and screwing in this way until an entire part of the ceiling is completely covered
Then start another part at the edge of the wall, near the covered part, but make sure that the final connections of the plasterboard distance the first part by at least 1.20 m.
Method 4 of 6: Part Four: Measure and cut the Drywall for the Wall
Step 1. Mark the place of all posts with a special tool
It doesn't matter if all the uprights are not centered at 40 or 60cm as expected. Some are 1cm shorter due to superficial carpentry work done by the builder. A good idea is to cover the floor with tape while the posts are exposed and mark the center line of each post with a good marker.
Step 2. Measure the wall against a piece of drywall to calculate if the final piece matches the center of the post
Again, it's best if you have to take out a few pieces to center the final piece on the riser.
When cutting drywall, use a T-square and a razor knife to draw a line on one side of the drywall. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and pull the piece of drywall towards you while simultaneously pushing your knee outward, breaking the drywall with a neat line. Clean the remaining part of the new margin with a razor
Step 3. Put a drop of glue on each suppository or beam that the drywall will rest on
Do this right before installing the drywall.
Step 4. With someone's help, lift the plasterboard towards the wall and, with a drill, install 5 screws into the post in the center of the plasterboard
Start in the center, then work your way out. Insert 5 screws for each beam.
Step 5. Use a drywall saw to make irregular cuts, such as arches
Continue installing drywall on windows and doors. You can get rid of the excess drywall later. Be careful not to install panels on the opening points of doors and windows.
A good practice in installing drywall on exposed pipes is to put the drywall against the pipes and tap it lightly with a flat wooden brick to mark it. Then, take away the drywall and use a knife or hacksaw to drill a perfect hole along the mark. It is better to be precise than to make a larger hole and then use 3 or 4 coats of putty to fix it
Step 6. Continue gluing, lifting and screwing the drywall in this way until part of the wall is completely covered
Start the next part on the edge of the wall, next to the previous part.
Step 7. Cut each piece of drywall that comes out of windows and doors
Secure the plasterboard and cut the part to be installed with a suitable hacksaw.
Method 5 of 6: Part Five: Fill and seal the plasterboard
Step 1. Mix an initial layer of drywall compound until you have a creamy consistency
Applying the first layer directly, with a slightly more watery consistency, will allow for better sealing.
Step 2. Use a drywall knife to apply putty to a groove
You don't have to be precise the first time; you will wipe off the excess when you apply the tape. Make sure you cover the groove entirely
Step 3. Put the tape over the entire connection on which you applied the putty
Use a 6 to 8-inch putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and continuing gently.
Step 4. Remove the putty around the tape with the knife to make the surface smooth and flattened
Step 5. Check the ribbon for bubbles
Wet the blade and flatten again if necessary.
Step 6. For corner profiles, consider a tool suitable for both internal and external corners
This will allow you to perform professional work.
Apply putty and tape in a similar way. You choose the quantity. Fold the ribbon in the center and reinforce it a couple of times if it's not already folded. Apply the tape so that the center of the fold perfectly matches the corner of the wall. Remove the excess mixture with a knife
Step 7. Apply at least two or three coats with a wider and wider spatula with each application
Let the putty dry with each layer. If you do this quickly, bubbles may form.
Step 8. Don't forget to apply some putty to each screw
There must be no margins on the applied putty. Keep the blade flat on the wall and make gentle but firm movements. Try on an old piece of drywall to improve the technique.
Level some putty on any imperfections, such as remaining nail holes and screws
Step 9. Repeat for each joint, until all joints are completed
Method 6 of 6: Part Six: Sand and Finish
Step 1. Use a rod grinder with drywall sheet to sand hard-to-reach joints when the last layer of putty is dry
Do not sand until the sheet is well set, so you can proceed with ease.
Step 2. Use a hand sander with a fine sheet to sand the rest
Always pay attention. Two quick hits will do.
Step 3. With a light and a pencil inspect any imperfections
The light will help you find them. Circle them with your pencil. Use a hand or sponge sander to fix them
Step 4. Protect the walls with primer (protection layer)
Apply a layer and smooth. Often this step is skipped, but it is important to have a result free of fluff residues deriving from the first sanding.
Step 5. Don't sand too much
Sanding can be satisfying and fun, but sometimes you go overboard and sand through the tapes. If this happens, put some putty back on and sand down when it's dry.
