Painting wood is much more than buying a paint can from Brico. If you want the job to look professional in the end, it takes time, planning and effort. Here's how to choose the right products for the job and how to get it done.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Knowing the type of Wood
Step 1. Determine what kind of wood you are dealing with before starting, as this determines the process and the result you should expect in the end
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The basic types are:
- Soft wood: pine, fir, cedar, etc.
- Hardwood: oak, beech, ash, elm, birch, walnut, etc.
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However, keeping in mind that:
- Boxwood and poplar are very soft hardwoods
- Fir is a very hard softwood.
Step 2. Consider using a softwood treatment
If the wood has uneven grains or lots of knots, it is likely to be soft. When you paint it, the color will not be uniform. You might want it that way, to bring out its natural beauty. If it's not what you want, put a softening primer on your wood. It will penetrate the fibers and allow for an even paint. Check the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 3. Keep in mind that hardwood absorbs more paint
If it has regular grain, it is probably a hard wood. You can use any type of paint to enhance it.
Hard woods, such as oak, need a few more coats of color than soft ones, but the result is really nice
Part 2 of 4: Preparing the Wood for Painting
Step 1. Make sure the wood is free from dirt and grease stains
Step 2. Decide what type of sandpaper you should use
The lower the grain number, the rougher the paper will be and the more paint will be absorbed into the wood fibers, with a darker result (from the first coat). Conversely, the higher the grain number, the less rough the paper will be and the less paint will be absorbed with a lighter result.
Step 3. If it is a flat surface, use a coarse-grained (60-80) paper to remove stains and scratches
Then use a finer grit (100-120). Keep in mind how deeply you want the paint to penetrate for the finished job. If you want medium depth stop at 100 or 120 grit. If you want a lighter result go with a finer grit.
Step 4. You can get to very high numbers of sandpaper (200 and above) and add several coats of paint
Test with a piece of scrap wood and choose the best solution for you.
Step 5. Once finished with the sandpaper, wipe off any residue with a swiffer cloth to make sure you clean thoroughly
Part 3 of 4: Painting
Step 1. Find out about the types of paint and how they react on wood:
- Oil-based paints provide a long-lasting color. They penetrate deeply into the pores thus sealing and protecting the wood. They manage to bring out its natural beauty;
- Water-based paints give the wood a homogeneous color. They are not absorbed unevenly as in the case of oil ones;
- Gels add a natural color tone to a wide range of wood and non-wood products, but it can be difficult to remove them from wood grooves;
- Pastel colors are a type of oil-based paint that give the wood a soft pastel tone while highlighting its grain;
- The pigmented paints will fill the veins, thus leaving less color on the surface;
- The dyes will color the veins and the areas around them with more or less the same shade.
Step 2. Put on the rubber gloves
Make sure the paint has been mixed well.
Step 3. Apply the paint liberally using a sponge, brush, rag or clean cloth
Step 4. Make sure you work in one continuous motion, following the grain of the wood
Make sure you go over the entire surface evenly.
Step 5. Wait 5-15 minutes for the paint to absorb
The longer you wait, the darker it will become. If you don't know how quickly the wood absorbs the paint, wipe it off immediately with a clean cloth. This way you can see how long the paint takes and how dark the paint can get. It is easier to add paint than to remove it.
Step 6. When you are satisfied with the result, place the wood on something flat (countertop, garage floor) and let it dry for 6-8 hours
Part 4 of 4: Polyurethane
Step 1. Use it to protect and finish the wood
There are satin, semi-gloss, transparent or high gloss.
Step 2. Make sure the wood is clean
If you are using a spray can, stay 20-30cm from the surface you need to treat. Spray the polyurethane with long, even strokes. Don't overdo it or you'll ruin the job. Give about two coats and then move on to the next piece.
Step 3. After a couple of hours, give another coat if you want
Step 4. If you are using liquid polyurethane, wear gloves and brush along the grain of the wood
If you put in too much, you can keep brushing to get rid of it. You need to check the wood, to make sure there are no bubbles or cracks. When it seems to have reached the optimal result, let it dry for 4 hours. Then fold another hand if you wish.
Step 5. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for application methods and drying times
The advice in this guide is purely indicative.
Advice
- Do not keep the paint for more than 15 minutes in a place with low or medium humidity. It will get rubbery and your work will look like a six-year-old did (nothing personal against six-year-olds).
- Putties are great for filling nail holes. However, they don't absorb color in the same way as wood. You can take some putty powder and add it to the paint you are using. Perhaps this will make the putty covering the holes less noticeable.
- If you work in very humid areas, you need to reduce the time to 5-8 minutes maximum.
- Use the best products you can afford.
- One thing you can try is to use some colored putty to fill in the holes.
- Choose a piece of wood that is unique in itself.
Warnings
- Work in well-ventilated areas.
- Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.