How to Solder a Stereo Mini Jack: 8 Steps

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How to Solder a Stereo Mini Jack: 8 Steps
How to Solder a Stereo Mini Jack: 8 Steps
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There are dozens of reasons why you might need to connect a stereo plug to a cable. If you look at the round part, a stereo plug is divided into three sections. The larger section is the “common” mass while the other two sections are reserved for the left and right channels (the tip is the left channel). On the back of the plug, there are 3 connectors. The two stubby connectors go left and right, while the long one (often with an integrated cable - the sleeve) is shared.

Steps

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 1
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 1

Step 1. Strip the two insulated wires and twist the shield to form a third "wire"

The two insulated wires are for the left and right channel. The third twisted wire (created by the shield) is the common. Note, you will still need some insulation on the left and right wires. If you peel them completely, they will touch each other, along with the common wire, causing a short circuit. Just strip 2-3 mm of cable.

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 2
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 2

Step 2. Thread the cable into the jacket of the plug

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 3
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 3

Step 3. Watertight the wires

If you don't know how to do this, look for an online guide.

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 4
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 4

Step 4. Lightly scratch the connectors on the back of the plug so that the solder flows better

In this way, the connectors will be well cleaned and the tin can flow well. Watertight these too, but only where you want to connect the plug.

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 5
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 5

Step 5. Join the joint, then join the left and right channels

Make a note of which conductor on the jack is connected to the tip and make sure the left channel wire is attached to this wire. If the wires are red and white, the left channel should be the white wire.

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 6
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 6

Step 6. Put tape on each connection as insulation

Just use a little bit of it, or the plug liner won't fit right.

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 7
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 7

Step 7. Screw everything together

You had put the plug cover on the wire before, or not?

Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 8
Solder Stereo Mini Plugs Step 8

Step 8. Test the final product to make sure that any of the three sections on the front of the plug do not touch each other and short out

All three sections should not touch any of the others, not even twisting the wire and the connector (as can happen during use). Make sure the wires are connected correctly. The ideal for this type of test would be a multimeter with audio warning, or a home-made tester with a light bulb.

Advice

  • The reason the headphone cable needs to be shielded is that due to the low voltage transmitted by the cable, interference is a big problem.
  • To increase the strength of the wire, mix some quick-setting epoxy glue and run it around the wires of the jack. Rotate it and cover the various parts and screw the mask or insulation back on. If the glue layer is very thick it could come out, so let the plug dry with the tip facing down. Be careful, or you risk damaging the plug. Make sure it works before you try. However, this method is great for increasing the resistance of the cable
  • You would expect to see four wires for the stereo cable (+ and -, left and right), but for minor applications, you can join the wires of the negative together (creating the common). Some cars work like this (all negatives are connected to the body) and if you install a high-powered CD player or similar, you'll need to reconnect it with a two-output cable (figure 8).
  • The left channel is typically the tip of the jack. The right channel is usually the next segment up or down in the jack.
  • To reinforce it, you should thread the cable completely into the plug, also inserting a few millimeters of insulation and crimp (not too strong, or you will break the cable shield). Make sure the twisted shield is soldered and leave it that way. The right and left strands are quite fragile.
  • Drill a hole in a piece of wood and insert the plug into it to hold it in place while you weld it.

    Carefully thread the wires into the plug and make sure they are even. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the mask back on

  • To strip the outer insulation, bend the cable 135 ° or more where you want to remove the sheath and use a sharp knife where the cable is bent (on the outside) but don't push too hard or you risk cutting the wire. The knife should (more or less) cut the insulation, giving you the opportunity to remove it gently. Run the blade around the cable.
  • You can test the connections using an ohmometer or resistance meter. If the values increase as you tap the right, left and mass channels (the lowest portion of the plug) then you have a problem.

Warnings

  • Do not use the plug if you believe even in the slightest that it may cause a short circuit. You could damage expensive equipment. If you use the plug and it doesn't work, remove it instantly.
  • Apply the heat gun evenly (use correct technique). An overheated plug can melt and short-circuit.
  • Overheating the shield can also cause a total short circuit. The inside of the cable will melt completely causing a short circuit.

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