If you are thinking of buying a used car, surely you already know that it is not easy to choose and that there are factors that can discourage you. Here's how to find the perfect option for you!
Steps
Step 1. Make sure the vehicle is on all four wheels before going to see it, so you can assess the condition of the tires and possible dents
Step 2. Check the paint thoroughly, take note of any rusted parts, drafts and scratches
Examine all sides of the machine; if the paint has a wavy appearance, then the car has been repainted; rough edges indicate scraps of adhesive tape.
Step 3. Check that the trunk is in good condition:
it should not be rusty or damp. The wear of the boot indicates the use that has been made of the car.
Step 4. Overhaul the hood to look for any oxidized or damaged areas
If there are, the car has not been treated very well. The bumpers have the vehicle identification number where they meet the bonnet; if it is missing, then the part has been replaced.
Step 5. The hoses and tapes should not be cracked and the radiator hoses should not be soft
Step 6. Enter the car and check the upholstery
Look for any tears and stains.
Take a look at the air conditioning. If this convenience is essential for you, you should buy a machine with R134 refrigerant. Most of the vehicles that own this model were built from 1993 onwards
Step 7. Check the odometer for the distance traveled, which indicates the age of the vehicle
On average, a motorist travels between 16,000 and 24,000 km per year. In any case, this depends on many factors: you must also consider the years of the vehicle. A 10-year-old car with a low mileage is not necessarily a bargain.
Step 8. Some machines have a computer on board
Use a device bought in a car shop (costs around 100 euros) to diagnose any errors.
Step 9. In cars with on-board computers, you have to pay attention to the signals when starting the engine or when turning the key
Step 10. Check the lights when the car is parked
Include parking sensors, reverse park camera, radio, CD player, music installation, etc.
Step 11. If you can, get under the machine after raising it and inspect the underside for any worn or oxidized parts
Black spots on the tailpipe indicate leaks. Feel free to check the frame.
Step 12. Take a test drive before making your final decision, so you will know more about the condition of the car
Step 13. Be sure to check the brakes as you drive, pushing to decelerate the car, but not quite
Give it a try by going 50km / h in an area that is not busy. The brake pedal should not vibrate and the vehicle should not make a noise. If the car suddenly turns, both the discs and the tires are damaged.
Step 14. Check all vehicle documents
Step 15. Find out about the car's repair history, hoping the owner has kept all records
In this way, you will become aware of the performance and problems of the machine. However, some vehicles don't have any logs because their maintenance was done in house. Don't be alarmed: what matters is that the person who took care of it is more or less experienced. Keep your eyes peeled - cars are sometimes sold due to past accidents and bad experiences.
Step 16. Inspect the engine for leaks or corroded parts
If there are oil stains on the engine, you will need to repair it. Make sure that the brake fluid is well leveled and that there are no traces of leaks. Tires should look new - old ones require some maintenance, and this is certainly not cheap.
Step 17. Remove the oil cap
The plastic residues inside it are an indication of leaks. Better forget this car! Check the condition of the coolant: if it is dirty, this means that it has not been changed and that an oil leak has probably occurred.
Step 18. Remove the dipstick:
the fluid should be pink or red. An old car can be dark, but it shouldn't look or smell like a burnt one. Also, the compartment should be full (check when the engine is running).
Step 19. The timing belt is one of the most important components of the engine and it is also the most expensive to replace
If your vehicle features a timing chain, don't worry about this step. The average life of a timing belt is 97,000-160,000 km. This depends on the manufacturer.
Step 20. The wheels should have been worn evenly
Check the surface to evaluate the alignment; a bad one may have been caused by wear on the steering and suspension components, potholes in the road and damage to the frame. Also examine the spare tire and compare it with the used ones.
Step 21. Never buy a car with a damaged frame
Check the top of the bumper, which should not be welded, but bolted on. Inspect the bolts to see if this part has been replaced or realigned (after an accident). Look for any welds on the door jambs.
Step 22. Check for possible vibrations at 75/100/125/150 km / h
A slight vibration while driving means that a suspension needs to be changed. The repair may also include other elements related to the misalignment of the front wheels.
Step 23. Check for noises when turning 90 degrees
Do it at low speed. If you hear a vibration or a thud, you will probably need to change the suspension.
Step 24. Go inspect the car with a friend you trust and who has experience with motors
If you don't know anyone who has this expertise, consult a mechanic to complete the inspection, but make sure they are a serious professional.
Step 25. Negotiate, don't immediately accept the seller's price
After evaluating the condition of the vehicle, make an offer. The level of negotiation is proportional to the machine and its maintenance. If the ad indicates a selling price of 15,000 euros, don't offer 10,000, though. Negotiation must be done gradually and without proposing crazy rates. Use the worst parts of the vehicle to your advantage. Don't you like the color? Say, "If the car wasn't green, I'd buy it with my eyes closed." The seller will understand that you are interested and will try to convince you, perhaps with a discount. Don't buy a car you can't afford. Remember, as good as it looks today, sooner or later it will require your intervention to maintain it.
Step 26. If you are making a private transaction, bring a pen, paper and cell phone with you
During the inspection, note all the defects of the machine. If necessary, remind the seller that you will also take it to the mechanic for examination. Once you have finished looking at the car, call the spare parts shop and ask about their availability and price. Having determined how much it will cost you to repair it, make your offer - your accuracy will convince your counterpart of your seriousness. Either way, these steps should be followed discreetly, or the seller will think you are rude.
Advice
- Look out for accidents and odometer discrepancies as you read the car logs. Check the last sheet first.
- Don't pay too much just for the make of the car: especially evaluate its condition.
- If the car smells funny, ask if it can be eliminated.
- Evaluate the prices of the various sellers and use independent information sources to find out everything about the vehicle you want to buy.
- You can buy a machine from a distributor who also provides maintenance service. If you shop elsewhere, look for a trusted mechanic.
- Certified vehicles cost a little more but come with a higher warranty.
- Compare the conditions inside the machine with what is indicated by the odometer. A car that has covered 24,000 km cannot have seats destroyed; this could be an indication of fraud.
- Use a magnet to find out if the body has been repaired with synthetic chemicals.
Warnings
- If after the preliminary checkup you intend to buy the car, ask a qualified mechanic for advice, especially if it is your first time with a used car. The car owner shouldn't raise any objections; if he does, he may have something to hide, so go elsewhere.
- If you live in a country where it is mandatory to take a pollution test, make sure the machine is tested before you buy it. Repairing the emission control system can be very expensive, and cars that fail the inspection usually need to be fixed before registration. Also, severely worn-out engine cars may fail the test. A vehicle that passes this test performs well, so combine this test with that of a qualified mechanic. Is this exam not required in your area? The mechanic should measure the compression of the engine, which will indicate possible wear problems (this statement particularly concerns vehicles whose mileage exceeds 80,000 km).
- If it sounds like a good deal and you don't notice anything out of the ordinary, go ahead. Trust your instincts.
