How to Build a Costume Armor: 9 Steps

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Knowing how to prepare a costume armor can be really useful for themed evenings, Halloween or Carnival parties, or to participate in some medieval festival. Just follow the simple instructions below to be able to build a light and flexible costume armor yourself.

Steps

Step 1. Make a sketch of the armor you intend to make

Focus more on its structure (shape, measurements, connections between one part and another) rather than on the details or color, which we will think about later. Try to determine where and how the various pieces that make up the armor will overlap, so that you can connect them. Simplify the structure as much as possible, thus avoiding having to connect many pieces into too many parts, thus avoiding weakening the structure itself. You can also search online for ready-made templates, some of which can even be printed.

Step 2. Take your measurements

Write down any measurements you will need to prepare a helmet, bib, shoulder pads and any other parts you will need. While these will not be the actual measurements of your armor, they will come in handy when you find yourself having to cut, connect or alter anything that is difficult for you to accurately test.

Step 3. Record the measurements on the reinforcement model

The fastest way to do this is to get help from someone who holds the various pieces of cardboard pressed against you (or any other flexible but resistant material you have decided to use), sketching the outlines of the various pieces that will make up. subsequently the armor, allowing you to then be able to retouch and refine them. An even more accurate method is to use a mannequin and build armor around it.

Step 4. Complete your model

Make sure you've counted all the pieces you need, then adjust their measurements and proportions if necessary. If you have double pieces, such as two shin guards or two protective gloves, choose the best one and discard the other: you will use it to create both pieces, so as to be sure that your costume is symmetrical. When you are satisfied, refine and soften the lines of the models, then taking care to mark both the models and the corresponding pieces, also noting which pieces must then be double; now you can proceed to cut the various parts.

Step 5. Transfer the model to your “foam rubber”

Trace the contours of each single component on the “sponge rubber” with a ballpoint pen, remembering to trace the double parts as well. For particularly large parts, you may need to fit two pieces of “foam rubber” together, preferably where it is subtle or where the armor design itself can be used, for example by creating a seam in the center of the breastplate. Mark the inside of the pieces and cut them out.

To make the best use of the “sponge rubber”, first trace the large parts and then the smaller ones, centering them between the shapes of the large ones

Step 6. Make some "emboss effects"

With a ballpoint pen, lightly trace the outlines of the areas you want to have in relief; always with the ballpoint pen, go over the entire area you intend to make in relief several times, so as to impress the shape in the "sponge rubber". Do not press too hard with the pen or the eraser may tear. It is much easier to draw on the “sponge rubber” while it is spread on a flat surface, rather than when it has already been assembled.

Step 7. Shape and assemble the armor

How you proceed in this phase of the project depends entirely on the intricacy of the design itself. Here are some factors to consider as you work.

Shape the armor around your body. Being flexible, this operation will simply consist in bending and gluing the “sponge rubber” in various points. In some places, however, you will prefer to mold the rubber into particular shapes in their own right. In this case you will proceed by holding the "sponge rubber" close (not too much) to a heat source, such as a stove (beware of the flame!), A hairdryer or better a hot air blower, to soften the rubber and shape it with the use of hands and various tools (such as a rolling pin for example). You'll only have a few seconds, so you'll need to hurry. It will be better to first practice a little on some cutouts, so as to learn how to use the heat on the "foam rubber" without scorching or damaging it.
Glue the various parts of the armature where the pieces overlap. The common modeling glue (the white one to be clear) will do just fine. In some cases, for example in points with many curves or overlaps, it will be more appropriate to proceed with this step, after the various parts have already been modeled "hot", to avoid subjecting the material to excessive tension. However, when you are dealing with pieces that require only a slight modeling or that in any case overlap with other pieces only minimally, you can decide to glue them together before proceeding with hot modeling.
To strengthen and harden your weave, apply a layer of glue to the back of the overlapping parts, placing gauze or similar fabric on top, making sure you use a suitable tool where the gauze will adhere to sharp curves and edges. Once dry, cut the excess fabric with a pair of scissors and apply another layer of glue.
Keep in mind that you will work mostly "in sections". If you are dealing with numerous parts, you may need to assemble a number of pieces just to form a section of a part of your armor. Think about the most congenial sequence for gluing the various pieces that will make up a larger section of your armor, before proceeding.
Make sure you leave openings. Since the “sponge rubber” is flexible, you will have more than one alternative on how to proceed: you could create a sort of “grain” from which to enter and exit the costume; or, for more traditional style armor, you could imitate the way the various components were assembled, connecting the various parts of your armor with leather laces; or more simply you could use tear openings / closures.
Decide how to attach the armor to your body. Unless you have built your costume in one piece, you will need to attach the different parts in different ways. You could wear a tight fitting suit under your armor, and use the velcro as an anchor point for the various parts, making sure that everything is well aligned. You may also decide to use fabric glue to further strengthen the velcro seal.

Step 8. Apply embossed designs where needed

If you have used "embossed effects", all you have to do is apply fabric paint on top of them directly from the tube to create an embossed design. You may need to go through several "coats" of paint to make the overhang more noticeable. As the result is very thick, be sure to let the paint dry well.

Step 9. Paint the armor if you like

It "seals" the "sponge rubber". As the "foam rubber" is porous, you will need to "seal" it before applying the glue. A good "recipe" consists of one part of modeling glue or common school glue, one part of fabric glue (elastic) and two parts of water. Apply several thin layers of this mixture on the “sponge rubber”, until no more air bubbles come out of the sponge itself. Let it dry between coats of sealant. You may need to go through 7 or 8 coats of "sealant", but if you have applied thin coats, the wait shouldn't be too long. Be careful not to get dirt or other debris sticking to the glue, or bumps will form on the armor.
Paint the back of the armor with spray paint. If parts of the costume come undone, leaving the underside exposed, painting the back of the armor will give the costume a more professional look.
Paint the front of the armor. As the "foam rubber" will move and bend with your body, normal paint will "crack". Experiment with flexible fabric paint on a leftover gum, and decide if it's suitable for your project. Make sure you apply the paint evenly to avoid streaks, and apply it even in the crevices.
Give your armor an "ancient" look. You can easily achieve this effect by using dark acrylic paint (for example a mixture of green and black for an "oxidized copper" effect), then removing most of it with a sponge before it has dried, taking care to leave some traces between the cracks.