Mice are great pets for people of all ages and while they require a lot of care, they are fun to play and watch. Read how to take care of it.
Steps
Step 1. Get ready
Before you bring your new friend home, it's important to get everything you need. Prepare the cage and put the food and a drinking bottle in it. When the mouse arrives home, it will take some time to get used to it so getting ready first will make the transition less traumatic and stressful for him.
Step 2. Think about adoption
Buying the mouse in a large pet shop involves running the risk of supporting the abusive pet trade. Those who take care of abandoned animals often also have rodents and entire broods, the result of poor shop management. In addition, a rescued rodent will be more prone to being pampered and helped than a bought one. If there is no animal shelter near you contact a breeder (yep: there are people who raise mice just like dogs and cats) - some take them into custody.
Step 3. Get informed
Before buying a mouse you should do some research. Pet shops and websites are notorious for giving misinformation. The ideal solutions are the sites of serious breeders. You can also join an animal forum, some are dedicated exclusively to mice. See list under Sources and Citations.
Step 4. Find a veterinarian who specializes in small and exotic animals
The vet is a necessity for every animal. Mice also experience pain just as much as larger animals. They are raised in conditions without precise rules, shipped to shops, stored in cages waiting to be sold and tend to suffer from diseases and problems. If you can't afford a vet and the medicines to treat them, don't buy it until you have the money to treat it.
Ask the vet questions. Make sure you pick one that's available for emergencies. (Or, look for a clinic that treats pets and even emergencies.) Since mice are small, a small thing can get very serious. It is important that you can provide your friend with immediate care when it is needed. Ask the vet if he has the right tools to operate in that case. If the answer is no, you need to look for another one
Step 5. Decide if you want a single male or a trio of females
These are the best proportions as females need company and are easier to manage than males. Make sure the choice fits your lifestyle. If you are unable to devote time to your pet every day, you shouldn't get a male.
- Do you want it instead? Male mice have characteristics that make them perfect for some people. First of all they have to be alone. Some people have reported having successfully raised two males together from young (under four weeks old). However, the risk of fights is very high in these cases. Because of this it is not recommended to put males together. If you choose a mouse then, you will be his only company.
- Do you want the female? Unlike males, females go in groups. A threesome is the best choice. That way, if one dies the others still have company. Many report that females become lethargic, let go and can even die without a partner. So if you want to have more than one mouse, choose females.
Step 6. Do not mix males and females
It is never safe to put them together, not even temporarily. Mating can happen quickly and pregnancy is inevitable. It's tough on any animal, including mice. Those bought at the store should never be paired unless you accept responsibility for the result. If you want to raise a mouse, contact a person who does it for a living and discuss your options. Some things to remember when shopping for mice in the store:
- Many shops buy their mice from farms called "factories". They are usually places where no attention is paid to the health and character of the farmed animals. That's why some mice in stores may have genes that are defective or prone to tumors and other diseases. Often the effects are not seen until maturity arrives. Since you don't know your mouse's lineage, you risk passing these defective genes to any puppies.
- Mice have litters of 15 or more puppies. Do you have a suitable place in the house? If you choose to take them to the store, they could be sold to snake owners and used for food.
- Only male litters can be born. It is rare but possible. In that case can you afford more than ten separate cages?
- Pregnancy and childbirth can be fatal for mothers depending on how they have lived their lives. Are you willing to sacrifice your mother's health and life? You have an emergency vet to call in case a caesarean section is needed. If you raise mice with your children, are you able to explain to them why the mother died to "give life"?
- A mother can and will kill her own puppies. New mothers, especially those in the shop, are prone to killing one or more puppies. Can you handle this?
Step 7. Choose the type of cage
The best are network ones with bars less than an inch away. The mesh does not give any ventilation problems compared to the tray. However, if you have no alternative and you have to use a tray, make sure the lid is pierced.
- Pay attention to the spaces between one bar and the other. They must not be larger than an inch or the mouse will run away. If it is less than five weeks old, it goes into a tub until it has grown a little. Mice are escape artists. Remember that if they manage to get their heads between two bars, their body will pass too. Also buy a second mesh to use as a replacement. If you find any pieces of netting eaten up, replace them immediately.
- The trays are quite simple to clean and sanitize but make the domestication of the mouse more difficult. Any cage that brings you closer to the mouse from above will cause him to see you as a predator.
- Modular systems like the Rotastak and Habitrail are fine. They're too small unless you plug in dozens of units and still have a serious ventilation problem.
Step 8. Choose the right cage size
Ground space is more important than air space. The site in the Quotes section provides a cage size calculator if you ever run into problems. You can also double the numbers provided by the standard calculation.
Step 9. Give the mouse something to walk on
The litter box is a must. Never use pine or cedar, which can damage the mouse's respiratory system and make it difficult for it to breathe. Also avoid sawdust or anything else that can easily be inhaled. The litter should be approximately 4.5 cm deep. Among the suitable ones are:
- Aspen: check that it does not contain powders.
- Carefresh: In this case choose the white one. The gray and colored ones tend to be too dusty and can lead to infections of the bronchial system.
- Strips of paper: white paper passed to the shredder is perfect. Better if it does not contain ink because it can be fatal if ingested.
- Megazorb: It is a less expensive and thinner version of the Carefresh.
- Ectopetbed, BedExcel and Finacard: these are cardboard-based beddings that are fine but not suitable for burrows.
Step 10. Provide your little friend with something to nest
Always give him some soft material that can be chopped up to build a kind of lair. Paper handkerchiefs (without added fragrances), toilet paper and Scottex. Forget the products on the market (such as hamster wool); not only are they expensive but they contain fiber which can be fatal if ingested. The best thing for your mouse's lair are cotton swabs that can be opened and frayed at the mouse's will. Shells are also fun for them.
Step 11. Avoid introducing parasites and more
Bedding should be frozen or baked in the oven before use. In this way the parasites are eliminated. Freeze them at -10 ° for 24-48 hours (safer method). Or cook them at 100 ° for half an hour (don't let it come into contact with flames). Toys should also be cleaned before being given to the mouse. They can be frozen or put in water and vinegar and then rinsed thoroughly.
Step 12. Buy a drinking bottle and refill it often
Better to use more than one to stick to the sides of the cage in case a bottle gets clogged, because mice dehydrate quickly. Put tap or spring water. The drinking bottle should be rinsed with warm soapy water every night and refilled with cold water daily.
Step 13. Purchase the food
It should always be available to mice. Give them something fresh every day because they have a very fast metabolism. Pre-packaged mouse mixes contain too much protein. Better ones for hamsters. When buying a food, check that it has less than 13% protein. Also avoid those with too many sunflower seeds. They are fattening and often a cheap food filler.
Step 14. Purchase snacks and supplements
Mouse snacks vary. Give them treats in moderation (one or two of those listed below during the week) and present them to them without rushing. Look for signs of diarrhea which can quickly dehydrate or kill the mouse (this is usually when you start the vegetable). Among the delicacies there are:
- 1 tablespoon of scrambled eggs
- 1 tablespoon of cooked rice
- Vegetables (dark leafy are better because they have less water)
- 1 tablespoon of chopped carrots
- 1 teaspoon of high quality dog food (once or twice a week)
- ½ biscuit for dogs (once or twice a week)
- Pasta with meat sauce (once or twice a week)
- Cheerios (no more than five per day)
- Cheerios with some peanut butter (once or twice a week)
- Live or frozen worms (once every two weeks)
Step 15. Buy some toys
Mice are curious animals that need a lot of stimulation to be happy. Buy or create different toys even before the mouse. This way you can alternate them once you clean the cage. Remember that you have to work a lot to enrich a tray compared to a cage and that your mouse will need a lot of space to hide. The more toy you have, the happier he will be.
- Often the best ones are not found in stores. Small baskets of those for organizing things become great for climbing (in household or office supply stores). Pull a string from one side of the lid to the other. Be creative.
- A safe alternative to buying is to make the ice cream stick toys yourself (new, not used ones even if clean). Make sure you use non-toxic glue and let your imagination run wild.
- Other safe and free toys are the empty rolls of toilet paper, those of eggs (not polystyrene). Cardboard boxes are fine. Putting one of the empty kleenex ones by removing the plastic from the top will provide a perfect place to burrow and have fun.
- If you choose to make your own cloth toys, use only fleece. It is the only safe material. Cotton and other materials have fibers that could strangle the mouse.
- For the ropes use hemp.
- Never use any type of adhesive tape. The chemicals are toxic, and if the mouse ingests or chews them, it may have problems and die.
Step 16. Buy or create the lair
The mouse should always have a covered area available. That way he would have a nice and comfortable place to build some kind of nest. Most mice don't sleep outside. The special or igloo-shaped boxes found in stores are perfect. You can also use items you have around the house such as kleenex or cereal boxes.
Step 17. Clean the cage
Contrary to popular belief, mice are very clean little animals. As a master, you can keep them happy by keeping their house sanitized once a week and tidying up once about the middle of the week. While cleaning, you will need a temporary cage in which to keep your friend. Cleaning is a good time to get the mouse to get some exercise:
- Remove the toys, the bowl, the drinking bottle, the nest and anything else. Dip plastic and ceramic things in warm soapy water and rinse well under cold water.
- Empty the litter box.
- Sanitize the inside of the cage with diluted vinegar (1 cup of vinegar per ½ of water). This will remove the odors. Rinse all traces of vinegar off before you clean everything up.
- Fill the cage with the new litter box.
- Return the bowl, the drinking bottle and the rest to the lotus place. You have to change the toys every time you clean to stimulate your little mouse.
Step 18. Watch out for odor build-ups
The male smells more than the females. Even if it feels, if treated regularly it will never become unbearable and predominant. The best way to combat this is to leave something unclean in the cage every time. This object has already been marked and its presence will make the mouse less prone to re-marking. Change objects in rotation to clean them so they don't get dirty.
Step 19. Get him to exercise
Buy a mouse wheel. Do not use those with metal bars. Mice can cut their tails. The wheels should have solid surfaces to run on. Make sure it is big enough for the rat so it doesn't arch its back too much while running, or it could get permanent damage. A medium size wheel will do. For the your well-being, choose one that doesn't make too much noise. Among the best brands that can be found on the market are:
- Silent Spinners: Not only are they the safest but they are also decorative. They can be attached to the side of the cage or on their own. Buy the regular 6 '' one that eliminates the arched back problem altogether. The little one is only good when the mouse hasn't grown up.
- Comfort Wheels: While they are not very nice to look at, they are quite safe. There are various colors so choose the one you like. And don't forget the size.
- Saucer Wheels: They are the safest. They completely eliminate the danger to the back and promote a more natural running position. Although they tend to take up a lot of space, they are the most recommended.
Step 20. Give your rat some time to settle down
When you bring him home, it will take him three or four days in the cage alone to settle in. When the mouse starts doing what it would normally do (run around the wheel, eat, drink, play, wash) it is time to start getting used to the hand. Even if you're tempted to play it right away, that time alone will help them build a bond of trust with you. {largeimage | Test Please Do Not Delete Step 20.jpg}}
Step 21. Start on the right foot
After a few days, you can start developing your bond. The first thing to do is to build trust. From the point of view of the mouse, you are a large predator. So it's important to stay calm and be patient when teaching him. The best thing is to put your hand in the cage and not move it. Mice are naturally curious and therefore should come and smell it. Stay still. This way they will understand that you do not want to harm them.
Step 22. Create a routine
Mice respond well to patterns and if you create one to educate it, everything will be easier. For the first few weeks, choose two or three times throughout the day. Write it down and place the memo next to the cage. Work with your mouse at the same time each time. The more time you spend with him in the first few weeks, the faster he will feel comfortable with you.
Step 23. Create a healthy and positive relationship
Once the mouse learns to recognize your scent (this can take days or weeks depending on where you got it), it will become braver. At this point it will get on your hand. Lift it up just a little. If the mouse is afraid, bring it back down. Keep taming him and he'll learn to get better and better with you. Once you allow yourself to lift it off the ground smoothly, you can put it on your lap.
Step 24. Be patient
Don't expect the mouse to be comfortable right away. He will learn that you are a trusted person and that you will not harm him over time. Once the bond is established, you can expect a lasting and happy relationship with your little friend.
Advice
- While you are holding it, the little mouse may be purring. It is called "bruxing" and usually occurs in rats more than in mice. It implies that he likes you.
- A good way to teach your mouse to stand is to put them in the bathtub (close the drain with a towel) and let them climb up both arms. If you choose this method, put an empty toilet paper roll in the cage and let the mouse enter it. Then, covering both sides so there are no accidents, move it into the tub. Remove the roll when the mouse has come out. Sit next to him in the tub with your palms up on the towel. Follow the same procedures described for cage training.
- Remember that mice scare quickly and sometimes don't like being lifted.
- One high-protein snack you can offer him is frozen worm (or live if you're not fussy). It is found in pet stores that have fish and reptiles. Mice are omnivores and not vegetarians. They need protein in their diet, and meat is a good way to feed them. If you choose the worm meal, dog food or frozen turkey or chicken meat can be used as a reward.
- The best resource for buying a mouse is a good breeder. Search online if there are any near your home or look for one to send it to you. Buying from a responsible breeder usually involves bringing home a healthy, calm, and reliable animal. However, you will need to consider waiting. Those who raise mice correctly do not do it to create other mice. The aim is to have healthy ones with good character. That's why they will only have two or three litters a year and will only give them to those who really want to care for them responsibly and lovingly. If you have the will to wait, then breeders are your best bet.
- Buying a mouse from a pet store is often the fastest way to get it. But they could be the ones who come from the "factories" and therefore they could have defective genes and problems with health and temperament. This is why shop rats are prone to disease, infection and being unruly. Remember that in this case it may take weeks, if not months, for your mouse to feel safe with you. These mice have often been mistreated before being cared for, and they must learn. It is possible to teach them trust but it will take twice as much patience and determination.
- Take your mouse to a trusted vet before putting it in a group. Some people argue that it is the best option because a human cannot fully compensate for the company of their own kind. You must wait at least six weeks before putting the females together, to prevent them from not being pregnant.
Warnings
- Never lift a mouse by the tail. It is painful for them. Better to let the mouse climb onto the hand before catching it. If he's not used to it yet, you can use an empty toilet paper tube to pick it up, blocking the openings with your hands. If necessary, take them by the base of the tail and still support the body with the other hand.
- Never use "soft" litter boxes sold in pet stores to nest. It is dangerous for mice or other pets. Better than kitchen paper, newspapers and napkins
- If you are sick, do not pick up your little mouse because he could get sick as well. Diseases can be fatal. If you hear the rat sneeze, have runny eyes, or shiver, take him to the vet.
- Pet shops and websites made by ordinary people give false information. Check everything you read before trusting it. The best sites are those created by responsible breeders. They are people who have a lot of experience with mice and who love them.
