If you have 8mm or Super 8 format tapes scattered around your house, you can always transfer them to Digital Video format. It is important to know that whenever they are projected in their format, they risk being damaged, which does not happen if used in the digital form.
Steps
Step 1. Determine if the tape is 8mm or Super 8 format
The 8 mm is determined by the greater width in the film dragging holes, probably occupying a third of the width of the film, and are positioned on the edges, creating a sort of frame for the actual film of the movie. In contrast, in the Super 8 format, the sprocket holes are very small and are placed to divide the film structure equally.
Step 2. Find a projector that can project the type of film you own
You may find that you have 8mm type and Super 8 type coils. There are projectors (Dual 8) that can project both. If you don't have a projector, take a look at Goodwill, Ebay or any store specializing in vintage video cameras. If you can't find a variable speed projector, you may notice a flicker in your images during the transfer. More modern and expensive projectors may have a special film transfer mode.
Step 3. If possible, gently clean the films using the take-up spindles, sliding them through a soft, lint-free cloth moistened with a film cleaner
Step 4. Use compressed air and an alcohol swab to clean the ribbon path opening on the projector
Ideally, the film will only be projected once, making sure that any dirt that could damage the film is removed and blowing away any specks of dust that could get inside the frame during the transfer.
Step 5. Get a bright, even white sheet to use as a screen
Place the projector at the end of a table by placing it at a distance of about 60 cm from your paper screen attached to the wall. Make the projected rectangle as small and sharp as possible. Turn on the projector without film inside to check the width of that rectangle.
Step 6. Use a camcorder that records in digital DV or Digital 8 format
Newer camcorders have better properties for capturing images in low light. The best results are ensured with the use of a video camera that has a manual aperture and white balance (WB) settings.
Step 7. Place the camera on a tripod close to but behind the projector and, using zoom and focus, find an ideal position to frame the white rectangle on the screen
If you can connect a camera video output to a monitor, this will make your framing and exposure correction easier to manage.
Step 8. Manually adjust the white balance on the camera, with that white light projected on the screen filling your frame and set the manual iris to be bright without shadowing
The Zebra setting on the camera set to 100% will help you in this process. If your camcorder does not have these features, the automatic settings may be sufficient to do an adequate job anyway.
Step 9. If your projector has variable speed adjustment, you should be able to slightly adjust the flickering on the white screen
Step 10. Insert the film into the projector
Start your recording on the camera before starting. This first step is your chance to make any changes. If you are very lucky, you may be able to watch the film on the first try. You will most likely need to perform these first few steps several times to fine-tune your image with manual controls.
Step 11. With a digital video master, you can now convert your film to DVD or VHS
Advice
- These instructions are valid for silent movies. 8mm silent film formats run at 16 frames per second. Audio films run at 24 frames per second.
- Use a lint-free cloth moistened with film cleaner, just upstream from the projector and just downstream from the front reel. Lightly scratch during projection to remove dust and grime before it enters the projector.
- Consider taking the films to a professional for duplication. It has the right equipment and the extra cost may be worth it to avoid damaging a priceless family history. Go to a specialty store or search the yellow pages for a place where they do video duplication.
- You may be able to find a rear projection screen with a mirror for lens-to-lens transfer, but beware of screen defects that can be imprinted as smudges on all lighter images.
- Make multiple copies from the master tape. If something happens, you will have spare parts and there will be no need to go back to the 8mm format.
Warnings
- When you stand behind the film loading projector, the sprocket holes should be on the right. If they were on the left, the film could be wound inside out.
- Cleaning the film could also remove some emulsion (the particles that make up the image). Care and caution are recommended when cleaning the tape.
- If the film has been edited in the past, it could break at the joints during projection. First, inspect any joints and repair them with joint tape if necessary.
- If you choose to take on all the work necessary to make the dubbing, don't waste time switching directly to VHS. Remember that an analog format like VHS will lose quality quickly with each copy.
