Making ceramic objects is simple! Once you have learned the basics, you can start creating your own pieces in no time. It might seem like a complicated process, but when you are at the top of the learning curve, you can create real masterpieces. Here's everything you need to know to get started.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: The Basics
Step 1. Choose a method
This initial choice is very important because it will determine the type of clay you will work with. Don't rule out those that require a furnace right away - you can buy one for home use if you want to continue with this hobby. Here is the summary of the methods and types of clay used:
- Baked, air dried clay or polymer clay. Objects made with this technique do not require the use of a furnace, as they can be air dried or baked in a regular oven. Considering the expense, small items such as jewelry or decorative items are usually made. Baking and air-drying clays have a similar appearance to regular clay. Polymer clay comes in various bright colors (a bit like plasticine) and can be molded into various shapes, with end results similar to plastic.
- Handmade with normal clay. As for handmade ceramic objects, the possibilities are endless. Even if the furnace is required, the investment required is affordable as the clay costs around 5-10 euros for a 10-kilo sack. For the rest, all you need is a rolling pin, sheets of newspaper and a cloth, plus other objects that are generally present in the house. With a modeling book, virtually every person should be able to make their own objects by hand.
- Modeled on a lathe with normal clay. Again you need a furnace, and when you are able to work quickly with the lathe, you will definitely want a big one, as you will be producing items at a very fast pace. You can learn how to shape it by reading books or watching how-to videos, but it's very difficult. Most of the inexperienced people buy a lathe, get depressed by the poor results and drop everything. Instead, if you are patient, you will gradually improve, even without cooking anything (a professional furnace is expensive… but maybe there is one available nearby?); rather, train by recycling the same clay. At the beginning there is the temptation to cook the first creations, mostly for a matter of pride, but after a while you will begin to hate them! So not cooking anything at first could be a great strategy.
Step 2. Choose the clay
Now that you know which method you will use you can choose the clay. Most of them require the use of a furnace, but some brands will be able to be cooked in the electric oven at home. If you just want to play with some moist clay, don't worry too much about cooking. A basic rule: wet and dry clay don't mix, so remember to use clay of the same consistency.
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If you want to cook clay, choose between high or low heat.
- The second type is usually good for sparkling colors and detailed decorations. The glossy finish is usually very stable at that temperature, the colors remain bright and do not change during cooking. The disadvantage is that the pieces are not completely vitrified (ie the clay is not completely melted), so it will be only the external finish to guarantee the impermeability. As a result, you can create objects that are not suitable for use in the kitchen or to contain liquids. The glossy finish will likely blow off or chip because it has not "interacted" with the clay further down as in the high-fire preparation. However, if you use the right clay and finish, you could have a pretty tough result. The products of this preparation are called terracotta.
- Medium and high heat preparations use clay for porcelain. Bright colors can also be obtained with oxidation (electric) furnaces, less so with reduction (gas) ones. The result is very resistant, because firing at high temperatures makes the clay waterproof, so it can be used in the kitchen and in the oven. Porcelain can also be made with very thin layers without losing its resistance. The finishes at these temperatures interact with the clay body, giving a mottled result appreciated by many for its uniqueness. Usually the finish "wiggles" a little, so the details may be choppy.
Step 3. Prepare the work area
Working with clay always makes a mess, especially if there are children involved. Cover any areas you don't want to stain by placing oilcloth or newspaper, or work in a room that you can leave cluttered, like the garage.
Never wear clothes that you don't want to get dirty or stained. If you have long hair, tie it up. You will have fewer problems during the preparation and they will not get in your eye
Method 2 of 4: Turn
Step 1. Prepare the clay
Air bubbles can ruin a perfect item, so get them out before you start working. Knead or cut small amounts: Try to start with a big piece like your fists.
Knead the clay as you would bread into a ball and beat it on a piece of chalk (great for absorbing moisture). Keep doing this until all the air bubbles have come out. If you are unsure, cut the ball in half with a thread and check the inside
Step 2. Turn on the lathe
Throw the clay on the center with some force. Since you're starting out, start with a good handful of clay. Wet your hands in a bowl full of water (to keep within reach) and start modeling the clay.
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Begin to give the ball a cone shape. Hold it in your palms and start squeezing it upwards.
Check that your elbows are in contact with the inner thigh or on the knees (whichever is more comfortable). This will help you keep your hands steady
Step 3. Move the clay to the center
This is a method that involves turning until it is perfectly smooth with no bumps or grooves. When you have obtained a cone you are ready to proceed.
- Push the tower down using one hand and holding it steady with the other. If you are right-handed, push it down with your right. Most of the pressure should come from above.
- When the clay is wider at the base, start applying light pressure on the sides, trying to make them homogeneous. Some clay may have accumulated on the left hand. Don't worry, it's normal, put it aside and continue.
Step 4. Model the desired shape
The specific instructions end there, because each piece (bowl, vase, etc.) will be formed with a different method. Regardless of the shape you choose, remember to make smooth but slow movements, letting the lathe make 5 turns before finishing each movement. Check that the clay is worked the same way in 360 °. Remove any excess water with a sponge.
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When you are done, clean your piece with a wooden knife and smooth the surface with a scraper.
Note: If you make a mess and the clay is all crooked, you probably won't be able to remodel it from the beginning, as the clay will not reset and cannot be remodeled as new
Method 3 of 4: Create by Hand
Make Ceramics Step 8 Step 1. Check the clay for air bubbles
If there are, the item will likely explode during cooking. As pointed out in the turning section, beat the clay onto the plaster and knead it as if it were a loaf.
If you want to check the inside to be sure, take a thread and cut it in half. If there are still bubbles, keep beating it
Step 2. Pinch, roll or slice it
When working by hand, there are usually three methods you can follow. Each of them leads to a very different result: for example, slices are better for larger pieces.
- The pinched vase: start making a vase with the first method, forming a sphere that fits in your hand. This method is similar to that used by Native Americans to make pots. While holding the clay ball, press your thumb on the center of the ball, halfway up from the base. As you turn the ball in one hand, evenly squeeze the walls outward with your thumb on the inside and your other fingers on the outside. Smooth the surface with a wet sponge.
- The Rolling Method: You can use clay rolls to make bowls, vases, and other odd shapes. Keeping your fingers flat, shape the clay to form a salami, and then roll it into 1 and 2cm thick cords. Make a flat plate with the pinch method and turn it over to use as a base. Put the roll on the edges of the base. Wet your fingers and attach it to the other roll, applying light pressure. Continue adding the cords, pressing them with your fingers or with a specific tool on the inside and outside to create a particular structure.
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The sliced method: Place two strips of wood or burlap at a distance slightly greater than the width of the slices. By working on a textured fabric you will have a very special finish. Place the clay on the cloth between the strips of wood and roll it. Use a pointed tool to trim the piece to the desired size. You can make paper templates to help you. Rub a wet finger on the edges to be joined and carve them with a tool. Roll up a sticky clay salami and place it along one edge. Squeeze the two edges together. Clay slices can be placed on rocks, bowls, or plastic shapes to create interesting shapes. When the clay dries, it detaches from the model but holds its shape.
If it is a medium-large piece, make it hollow: the clay takes a lot to dry and if you cook it, many times it will explode
Method 4 of 4: Glazing
Make Ceramics Step 10 Step 1. Bake the clay at least once
After this operation it can be glazed! If you don't have a furnace, contact a professional and let him do it. If you have one and know how to use it, proceed to the next step.
Different clays react differently to heat. Read the instructions on the clay package and do your research online. Also take into account the size of your object
Make Ceramics Step 11 Step 2. Choose the nail polish
As with any other step there are various options. Each glaze will give a slightly different finish.
- Liquid Nail Polish: You can buy nail polish and undercoat in liquid form in specialty stores and apply them with a brush. Some types of nail polish are difficult to apply evenly: as a result you will have the marks of the hair of the brush. Others will melt enough to erase these marks.
- Dry: You can also purchase dry nail polish, which is designed for dipping, pouring or spraying. In addition to a brush, you'll need a bucket, water, something to flip it over, and a mask to avoid breathing it. The advantage of dipping it is that the finish will be smoother and you can achieve unthinkable effects with a single brush, such as double dipping to have different colors on the same piece. Usually only professionals spray the nail polish as good ventilation and all related equipment is required.
- Do it yourself: this is the most advanced form of glazing. Using specific recipes, you can buy the raw materials and mix them: you can find these recipes on books or specialized sites. You will need the ingredients that make up the glaze, a scale, a sieve and the right spirit for experimentation. Sometimes the glaze will not come out as hoped, you will have to learn how to modify the recipe to get the desired result.
Step 3. Choose your method
As you can imagine, there are several ways to glaze your product. Here is a complete list of methods for bringing out the colors in your art:
- Soak: If you have a lot of objects to glaze, this will be the quickest method. All you have to do is dip the product in the nail polish (which should have a creamy consistency) for about three seconds and set it aside. The glazing will certainly be uniform.
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Pour: if you want to glaze the inside, pour the glaze inside the jar, leaving it inside for three seconds and then pour it back into the bucket. If you are afraid of overdoing it, there are many ways to get rid of the excess fluid.
Pouring is a method also suitable for external glazing. A second, thinner layer is often used. The two layers then interact giving colorful and extremely deep results
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Brush: If you've bought ready-to-use nail polish, you'll probably need to apply it with a brush. If the nail polish is thick you can start, as its texture is designed to eliminate brush marks. If you like these marks, dilute the nail polish. Use a synthetic brush.
If you want a smooth, matte surface, use a coarse brush and apply the recommended number of coats plus one more. Place the piece on the lathe and spin it slowly as you apply the glaze for a particularly smooth surface
- Sponge: For this method, dip the vase in a layer of glaze that you would like as a background. Then use a natural sea sponge dipped in a different color nail polish to create the desired design. Sponges bought in a specialized store, of various shapes, can be used for strange effects. If you have the time, experiment with mixing various shapes and colors to see which combined effect you like best.
- Engraving: for this you will need at least two glazes, preferably models that you have already baked and that give a good result if placed one on top of the other. Start by dipping the vase in the lighter glaze of the two and setting it to dry. Dip it this time back into the darker nail polish. After it dries, take a bow tool and draw a pattern on the top layer of the nail polish, highlighting the bottom one. With practice and skill you can make very complex drawings. After firing, the motifs will have the color of the first glaze, surrounded by a background of the two combined colors.
- Print: Get some florist sponge (that green stuff they put flowers on). Draw a pattern on the surface of the sponge. Carve the trace with the bow tool, dip it in the glaze and use it to decorate large flat objects.
- Reserve print: dip the vase in a light glaze; paint the design with cobalt oxide (blue) or iron oxide (brown), then cover the surface with a specific wax for reserve printing. When the wax has dried, dip the jar in a second color. If you also cover the white part with wax, you will get three different colored glazes (white, cobalt and the final one). You can add more details by carving a design into the second layer of glaze.
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Taping: For fine, curled lines with sharp edges and corners, use tape instead of wax to make your design. You can do this by glazing the whole vase, letting it dry and putting the adhesive tape in the desired shape. Submerge the jar, let it dry and remove the tape to let the bottom glaze pop out.
Pay attention to the cooking temperature on the enamel bottles. If it's a high heat glaze and you've used low heat clay, your piece will melt in the heat of the furnace
Advice
- Check that the clay is totally dry before baking, as it could crack or explode if it doesn't.
- If you're working on a piece for a few days, keep it covered with plastic at night so it doesn't dry too quickly.
- When you make incisions in the clay, wait until it has reached the consistency of the leather. Also, don't sculpt it leaving deep and subtle marks.
- Clay forgives, but gets tired and loses elasticity if it is in contact with water too much or is manipulated too much.
- It would be best if you found someone who knows enough to teach you. This is a very hands-on hobby and having someone grow you up and show you how to go about it can make a lot of difference. This guide was written to give you ideas and theoretical information, but only with practice will you be able to understand how to move your hands.
- An easy way to create pets is to start with balls and then stick them together, removing the excess pieces.
Warnings
- Do not breathe the clay powder. Wear protective gear.
- Clay retains heat and cold: don't burn yourself.
- Some glazes contain lead. They are wonderful but don't drink or ingest them.
- The tools are sharp! Be careful.
