Fitting a tiled floor can be a time-consuming job. For someone with a busy schedule, it may take a week to complete the project. However, the process is simple and clear, and the end result amply pays off for the efforts made. For more information on DIY tile laying, even if you have little experience but getting the most fun, read the article below.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Laying the Concrete Panels
Step 1. First of all, if you are only dealing with the attic, you will need to install concrete panels
Although it is possible to lay the tiles directly on a multilayer wooden floor, it is certainly not recommended. In fact, the wood does not ensure a sufficient seal, unlike a thin concrete panel; and it does not even constitute a flat and smooth enough surface to lay the tiles.
Concrete panels will be a little more expensive and take longer, but it's worth it. A well-made flooring needs solid support
Step 2. Spread a thin layer of modified latex mortar on the floor
If you mix the grout from scratch, add enough water to the dry grout so that its consistency becomes similar to that of peanut butter. Then let it rest for 10 minutes. To spread the mortar, use a notched trowel with grooves of the same size as the thickness of the concrete panel.
Spread only the amount of mortar that you can cover in about 10 minutes. This is the time it takes for the mortar to start pulling
Step 3. Press the concrete panel onto the floor and fasten it with the screws for the concrete panels
Starting at one corner, press the panels together using your body weight. Screw the screws with a screwdriver to fix the panel to the floor. Place a screw about every 20 cm along the sides of the panel and every 25-30 cm inside it.
Step 4. Continue to spread the mortar and lay the concrete panels on the floor, swinging the contact points between each panel to line them up
To achieve greater solidity, lay the panels in such a way that their sides do not form solid lines. To do this you will need to lay a series of panels starting from one side of the room, and then start the next series on the opposite side.
Step 5. The concrete panels can be cut with a hole or a cutter with a carbide tip
If you need to cut the panel in a non-linear shape, use a hole with the carbide blade. If, on the other hand, you only need to cut straight lines, use a cutter with a carbide tip (it costs only a few euros) and a straight line.
Step 6. Finish the job by grouting the seams using mortar and tape
Use a trowel to apply some mortar, then press some knitted fiberglass tape over the seams. Then go over the tape with the trowel, pressing hard on the seams and locking it firmly into the mortar. By cleaning the edges, trim any excess material that may come out
Part 2 of 4: Get ready to lay the tiles
Step 1. If necessary, thoroughly clean the existing floor with a non-toxic floor cleaner
You must remove any traces of glue, dirt and grout before starting to lay the new tiles. The floor must be completely clean to ensure maximum seal between the tile and the panel.
TSP, or trisodium phosphate, is a great all-purpose cleaner. It cleans very thoroughly, but is not used a lot these days due to its environmental impact
Step 2. Identify where to start laying the tiles
Many people prefer to lay them starting from the center of the room and working outwards, which is an important technique if you have tiles all of the same shape and size. This method creates a nice effect in the center of the room, but the tiles on the sides will need to be cut. Then you can decide to start laying in another place, especially if you use tiles with an irregular shape. You can choose to have whole tiles on either side of the room, and start laying them from one of these if you know that for example a wardrobe, sofa or other piece of furniture will be placed on the opposite side that will cover the cut tiles. This article assumes that you will want to start laying the tiles from the center of the room and then work outwards.
To be sure, before spreading the mortar, dry-lay the tiles directly on the concrete panels using the spacers. So you can see the effect the finished job will do. Try different arrangements until one in particular catches your attention
Step 3. Find the center of the room using a chalk scriber with which to draw two lines that cut the room in half for its length and width
Place the scriber in the center of each wall after measuring it with a tape measure and leaving the wire right in the middle. You can leave the wire to use as a guide when placing the first tiles.
Lay a few tiles along one of the center lines to make sure they are centered in the room. If you find that the drawn lines are not perpendicular, redo them
Step 4. Organize the tile boxes and open them
When placing the tiles, take them alternately from several boxes in consideration of the fact that they may have small differences in shade depending on the production lot. If you want to make a particular design, order the tiles according to when you will need each specific tile.
If you are going to finish each row leaving a very small or very large space compared to the size of a single tile, move everything so that the remaining space is about half of a tile and draw a new line with the scriber to use. as a guide for laying the tiles. You don't want to have to cut the tiles into small pieces to finish the rows along the wall?
Part 3 of 4: Laying the tiles as a specialist
Step 1. Spread a layer of tile cement or mortar in the place where you are going to start laying
Use the flat side of a trowel to lay the adhesive, and then brush it with the toothed side making even horizontal lines. The goal is to get a uniformly applied layer of cement or mortar on which to lay the tiles, and the horizontal lines have more grip than random curved lines. Lay a quantity of mortar just enough to be able to work for about ten minutes; otherwise it will start to pull and be difficult to work with.
- If you use tile cement, leave it about 15 minutes for it to become sticky enough to keep the tile attached.
- With linoleum or vinyl tiles use tile cement, while with ceramic or porcelain tiles use mortar.
Step 2. Start laying the tiles in the center of the room, aligning them with the line drawn with the chalk
Press each tile gently onto the concrete or mortar; to do this you can also use a rubber mallet to use when you have finished laying each single section.
Step 3. At the corners of each tile put a tile spacer
Flush each new tile with these spacers, being careful not to slide the tiles already laid over the adhesive material. Remove any material that may leak between one tile and the next.
Step 4. Continue laying the tiles, except those along the outer edges of the room
Then, measure the space left between the last row of tiles and the wall and mark the tiles you will need to cut. Use a wet tile saw to make the cuts, and lay the cut tiles like the others.
- If you first place all the tiles in the center of the room, and then later mark and cut the ones that need to be cut, you will have to rent the water saw for just one day, saving money and tiles.
- To lay the smaller pieces of tile in the corners of the room, instead of trying in vain to put the mortar in the nooks or crannies, spread it directly on the back of the piece to be laid.
Step 5. Let the adhesive dry overnight, then remove the spacers if necessary
Some types may be left on, so check with the manufacturer if you need to remove them.
Part 4 of 4: Finish with putty
Step 1. Mix the grout according to the instructions on the package; usually it is mixed with water in a 20 liter bucket
It should have a consistency similar to peanut butter. As for the mortar, it should need about ten minutes to activate and then it must be slightly remixed before it can be applied.
Step 2. Use a trowel (or trowel) to squeeze the grout into the cracks between the tiles, creating a smooth surface
Pass the trowel alternating it in different directions to make sure the putty penetrates all the crevices well.
At this stage you need to work fast. In fact, the putty sets quickly - much faster than the mortar. For this reason, only work on limited areas before moving on
Step 3. Remove excess grout with a sponge
Again, focus on a small area to work on so the grout hasn't dried before you've had time to remove it from the tiles. Optionally, once the grout has dried, you can also use a damp rag to remove any residue left on the tiles. Then let the grout dry for a few hours.
Step 4. Seal the escape routes once the grout has set for 72 hours
Use a sealant with an applicator brush and be careful not to run it over the tiles.
