Originally, the term linoleum referred to a natural material made with linseed oil, pine resin and other organic substances; currently, it is used to indicate both the original material and a number of modern alternatives made with vinyl. Flooring linoleum, widely used because it is inexpensive, waterproof and resistant, is typically laid over an existing floor or slab using a very strong adhesive. Although its installation is quite simple compared to that of other more expensive materials, it still represents a demanding job for people with little experience in building; then continue reading the article to learn how to lay linoleum flooring.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Prepare the Floor
Step 1. Allow the material to adapt to the ambient temperature
Linoleum and its synthetic substitutes are soft, flexible and malleable in comparison to most other flooring materials; they are in fact so flexible that they shrink or expand even with small variations in temperature. Although these are structural alterations that are imperceptible to the naked eye, they can however cause some small problems during the installation and care of the floor; for this reason, you must wait for the linoleum to reach its "final" size by storing it for at least 24 hours in the room where you plan to install it.
Step 2. Remove all furniture, doors and appliances
Before laying the material, you must completely clear the work area of any possible obstruction. For most of the rooms, this means removing all furniture or decorations from the floor (such as carpets), as well as all devices resting on the ground (toilets or pedestal sinks); finally, you should remove all the doors from the hinges, especially if they open into the room, to have free access to the entire perimeter.
When it comes time to prepare your work area, try to be cautious. It is better to spend a little more time removing even those objects whose removal apparently does not seem necessary, rather than, for example, realizing halfway through the laying that that toilet not uninstalled is right on the laying path
Step 3. Remove all skirting boards
They are those wooden edges that are located at the base of the walls along the perimeter of the floor. You can usually take them apart by gently prying them off with a crowbar, flat screwdriver, or sturdy putty knife. To avoid damaging the wall, place a small block of wood behind the tool as you remove the baseboard; by doing so, you avoid scratching the walls and at the same time have a foothold that allows you to exert more force.
While you are working on the baseboards, take the opportunity to remove the electrical outlet plates that could be damaged when laying the linoleum
Step 4. Remove the nails from the baseboards
After removing the wooden edging, quickly check the bases of the walls, near the floor, for nails sticking out of the wall. Carefully pull them out using a pair of pliers, a hammer nail remover, or other similar pry tool; if you don't remove them, nails can become a problem when you try to lay linoleum close to the perimeter.
Step 5. Patch the existing floor
Linoleum must be laid on an almost perfectly smooth and as even surface as possible; otherwise, the underlying imperfections reflect on the coating material causing unsightly bumps, soft spots and ripples. If you plan to apply linoleum to existing flooring, make sure it is level and perfectly smooth. If you want to lay the material on the slab, remove the previous coating and check that the surface is in good condition; if the floor or slab is not level and even, you need to repair minor damage as described below:
- Concrete floors: level the highest areas with a router or mason's chisel; fill small holes or cracks with more concrete.
- Wood floors: use a leveling putty to repair small indentations and dents; for major damage, use plywood bottom (see next instructions).
- Linoleum floors: repair worn or dented sections with leveling putty (apply it with a straight edge trowel); if there are any damaged or loose sheets, remove them and lay the new coating directly on the slab.
Step 6. Alternatively, use the plywood bottom
Some floors or slabs are simply not suitable for supporting linoleum flooring, either because they are too damaged or worn for quick repair or because you would like to save the material for another project. In these cases, it is better to lay a plywood bottom that will serve as a basis for the linoleum. Cut 6mm thick construction plywood planks to fit the surface you want to cover with linoleum; then, place them on the existing floor or slab. This technique allows you to create a smooth and even base on which to lay the linoleum, avoiding the problems associated with a damaged or worn floor underneath.
- To ensure a perfect fit between the various boards, use a pneumatic stapler to insert staples about every 20 cm along the edges.
- Do not forget that this solution slightly raises the level of the floor, so you will have to eliminate some material at the base of the room doors.
Part 2 of 4: Lay the linoleum
Step 1. Calculate the amount of material you need
Now that the base is ready to be coated, it's time to take measurements to know precisely how much material you need and how to cut it into exact sections. There are several ways to measure a floor - some are described below. Whichever technique you decide to use, it is important to ensure maximum precision, so that the flooring is perfectly flush with the walls and appliances.
- One way to measure the floor is to place a large sheet (or several sheets) of sturdy paper (such as butcher's paper) over the area you want to cover. Use a pencil to precisely trace the edges of this surface, cut out the drawn shape and then use this "pattern" to cut the linoleum.
- Alternatively, you can use a tape measure to know the length of all sides of the area to be coated. Write down the values on a sheet of paper and use them to cut the linoleum sections accordingly. This method is especially useful for square or rectangular sections - all you have to do is measure two perpendicular sides to know how much material to cut.
Step 2. Draw the cutting lines on the material
When you have made the floor pattern or taken the precise measurements and drawn a rough sketch, you are ready to give shape to the linoleum. Use a washable marker to draw the edges of the model, or a ruler and tape measure to draw the lines based on the measurements you took earlier. Linoleum is usually sold in rolls with a width of 2-4 m; it is therefore possible to trace and cut the contours for most rooms and small spaces (such as bathrooms and entrances) from a single piece without creating joints. For wide floors, you can very well use two or more sections of material.
It is almost always a good idea to outline the contours so that the sections are 3-5 cm larger than necessary. It's easy to trim off excess material to fit the floor, but there's no way to enlarge a piece that has been cut too small; therefore be very careful when cutting linoleum
Step 3. Cut the material
When you know the exact dimensions of the floor you want to cover, you need to start cutting out the covering. Note that, for a perfect installation, it is best to use linoleum that has been stored in the room for about a day (as already described in the first section of the article). Use the measurements you took or the pattern you made to cut the lining into as few pieces as possible.
For this operation you need a sharp utility knife or a specific hook blade knife and you need to make the incisions along the lines you have drawn. Use a straight edge ruler to make neat cuts. If you have plywood on hand, place it under the linoleum to avoid scratching the floor
Step 4. Lay the material on the ground and cut the edges to match the surface
Gently transfer it and lay it out on the ground; push it into the corners and shape it around the obstacles, making sure there are no creases. If you traced and cut out the edges so they were 3-5 cm wider, the extra material should lift off the walls. Use a special tool to carefully trim the linoleum's contours, so that the lining is flat against the floor and the perimeter is flush with the walls. Here are some tips for cutting the material and making sure it fits the surface perfectly:
- Straight walls: use a straight line or piece of wood (such as a board with a 5 x 10 cm section) to make the linoleum fold into a corner, where the wall meets the floor; cut the material along the crease.
- Inside Corners: Make "V" cuts to remove excess material where it adheres to the corner. Carefully remove the thin strips of linoleum until it adheres perfectly to the floor.
- Edges: Make a vertical incision from the edge inwards respecting an angle of 45 °. Remove excess material from both sides until the linoleum sits snugly against the underlying surface.
Step 5. Apply the sticker
At this point, lift half of the flooring and use a notched trowel to spread the glue on the back side of the linoleum. Follow the instructions on the packaging of the material; for some products it is necessary to apply the glue on the edges, for others it must be spread over the entire rear surface. Wait briefly for the adhesive to stabilize (almost all glues of this type need a set time to ensure maximum hold) and then roll the linoleum back into place, pressing it carefully to the floor. Repeat the process for the other half of material.
- Typically, you can find glue for linoleum flooring at home improvement stores or paint shops (it is sometimes simply referred to as "floor glue"). Always refer to the specific instructions of the products you purchase, including those of the sticker; if they are different from those described in this article, respect the former.
- If your linoleum is to be covered entirely with glue, remember to leave some free space around the perimeter. This material shrinks and stretches slightly when exposed to the adhesive, so you have to wait to glue the edges until the dimensions have stabilized.
Part 3 of 4: Finishing and Sealing the Floor
Step 1. Secure the liner with a roller
Use a heavy one (45kg models are fine) to clear air bubbles from underneath the material and adhere the material securely to the slab or floor. Move it from the center to the edges, taking care not to miss any corners. If this causes some glue to come out of the perimeter of the linoleum, use a solvent to wipe it off and wipe it off with a wet cloth, according to the manufacturer's directions.
Step 2. Finish the installation by applying the sealant
To add a protective and shiny layer to linoleum, thus increasing its durability, apply a specific sealant. Use a paintbrush or paint roller to apply a thin, even coat over the entire surface without forgetting any sections. Start at the corner farthest from the door to avoid stepping on the fresh sealant.
Pay attention to the junction areas, that is the points where two sections join together; if not properly sealed, they can be easily damaged by water and peeled off
Step 3. Do not step on the floor for approximately 24 hours
While you wait for the sealant and adhesive to dry, it is vital not to walk on the linoleum. Even when the sealant is dry, it is best to minimize trampling to allow the adhesive underneath to fully stabilize. By putting the furniture back in its place or walking too much on the surface, you can warp the linoleum that is still malleable, leaving bumps and dents.
Many flooring adhesives dry in about 24 hours, but some have longer rest times. Always follow the directions on the package and err on the side of caution; prolonging a small discomfort in the short term avoids damage in the long term
Step 4. Reassemble the baseboards and put furniture and appliances back in place
When the floor is completely dry, you can return the room to normal. Re-fix the baseboards, the plates of the electrical outlets, rearrange the furniture, furnishings and everything else you had removed to prepare the room for installation. At this stage, be careful not to scratch, damage or alter the linoleum.
- Remember that some objects (especially doors and baseboards) may need to be altered or lifted to fit the slightly higher floor.
- To move heavy furniture and appliances, use a piece of plywood to slide them over instead of dragging them across the floor, which could damage the floor, even if it is now stabilized.
- If you need specific instructions for these operations, you can read the articles related to the installation of skirting boards, the assembly of doors and the installation of appliances.
Step 5. Use silicone to seal the edges of the room if needed
As you restore the room to its original condition, don't forget that some elements need to be sealed along the edges to make the joint impermeable to air and water. Baseboards in particular need a lot of sealant, just like toilets, sinks and other bathroom fixtures that use water. Remember that for most projects inside the house it is best to use latex silicones or acrylics.
Part 4 of 4: Estimate the Amount of Linoleum Needed
Step 1. Use an online calculator
While linoleum and vinyl flooring are fairly inexpensive materials, when compared to parquet and tile, you still don't have to spend more money than you need to. Calculating in advance the amount of material you need for the installation allows you not to waste resources in buying excessive sizes and saves you the hassle of having to go back to the shop, in case you don't have enough. In most cases, the easiest way to calculate is to use an online tool.
Although online calculators can be very different from each other, it is usually sufficient to type in the length and width of the section (s) of floor to get an estimate. If the surfaces are square or rectangular, you only need one length and width, but if the areas have varying shapes, you need to divide the square into rectangles and find the dimensions of each to get an accurate total value
Step 2. Manually calculate the quantity
You don't have to use an online calculator to find out how much linoleum you need - you can get the value with pen and paper too. Use one of the equations described below to determine the material requirements for the project, based on the type of linoleum you are purchasing, whether rolled or tiled. Remember that no matter which equation you use, the area of each rectangular section of the floor is equal to its length multiplied by its width.
- Rolled sheet linoleum: (Floor area in m2) / 40m2 = number of rolls you need to buy (typically, linoleum rolls are 2m wide and 20m long).
- 22 cm tiles: (Floor area in m2) / 0, 0484 m2 = number of 22 cm tiles you need.
- 30 cm tiles: (Floor area in m2) / 0, 09 m2 = number of 30 cm tiles you need.
Step 3. Buy some more linoleum than you need
As always during renovations, it is more efficient to procure a little more material right away. Just like when you buy a little more concrete to make the driveway, excess material allows you to correct small installation errors and compensate for any that you may have made in the calculations. In addition, the extra linoleum can be stored indefinitely, you can use it to repair minor damage, line the base of the cabinets under the sink and for a wide range of home improvements.
