There are different types of hamster and most of them live about 2-3 years. Hamsters are nocturnal creatures, which means they sleep during the day (while dwarf hamsters are crepuscular animals, mainly active at dawn and dusk). To make sure your hamster stays healthy and happy, you need to feed him properly, keep him exercising and clean his cage regularly.
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Buying a Hamster
Step 1. Find a place where they sell hamsters
If you are looking for one, contact a pet store, a breeder (especially if you are looking for a hamster of a particular color) or an animal rights organization. Generally, they are not expensive; the bulk of the expenses go to games, cages and medical care.
Step 2. Choose a healthy hamster
A healthy specimen should have clean ears, clear eyes, a clean, clean hindquarters and a slightly rounded belly. The coat should be uniform, with no bald patches or skin bumps (except for the scent glands on the thighs, which many newbies mistake for scabs or cuts), while the teeth should not be too large or curved up.
If a hamster has wet fur on its back, be especially careful: it may suffer from "wet tail", a bacterial disease that spreads quickly from one animal to another. The coat should be dry and clean. Antibiotic treatments exist for the treatment of "wet tail", but when buying it it is always better to choose a healthy specimen
Step 3. Consider the size of the hamster according to your needs
Golden hamsters can reach 13-18cm, Russian hamsters and Siberian hamsters reach 7.5-10cm, Chinese hamsters can reach 10-13cm in length, and Roborovsky hamsters just reach 7.5cm in age adult.
Step 4. Consider the hair color
Golden hamsters are mostly gold in color, but they can have different colors; Russian hamsters are gray-brown in color, have a black stripe on the back and a white stomach; Siberian hamsters are white (with purple or gray shades); Roborovsky's hamsters are sand-colored and have a white stomach, while Chinese hamsters are dark brown with an ivory-colored stomach.
Step 5. Ask to be able to put your hand into the hamster cage
If that's not possible, ask the breeder or pet store clerk to do it for you. Do not buy hamsters that bite or scratch or overly fearful specimens (that run away, hide and then stay well buried). A hamster that sniffs your hand without climbing on it may be a good choice; even a curious specimen that gently nibbles your hand may be fine.
Part 2 of 6: Setting up the cage
Step 1. Get the right cage
It must be spacious, at least 80x50 cm. A glass aquarium (as long as it's the right size) is a great home for your hamster, but it may not have proper ventilation; then make sure that the lid is perforated, so that the air circulates inside it. Alternatively, you can use a wire fenced cage, which has good ventilation. Do not place the aquarium in direct sunlight, otherwise the glass will amplify the sun's rays and the hamster may suffer from it. Unless second-hand, aquariums can be expensive; you can always use a standard cage, which guarantees excellent ventilation.
Step 2. Put the cage in a safe place
Make sure the area is ventilated and do not expose the cage to direct sunlight, keep it away from windows. In order not to stress the hamster, place the cage in a quiet place, in an area that is not accessible to dogs and cats; do not allow other pets to interact with your hamster!
Step 3. Make sure your hamster can't escape
Hamsters are skilled escape artists. Make sure that all the exits of the cage are closed and that any removable parts cannot be "unhinged" by your little friend. If the cage is fenced, make sure the hamster cannot sneak through the bars, running the risk of being trapped and injured. The bars should be at least 0.7 cm apart.
Step 4. Consider his territorial instinct
Golden hamsters should live alone. They become territorial from 5-8 weeks of life and fight hard (to the death) to defend their territory. Dwarf hamsters can live together as long as they are used to doing so from an early age.
The three species of dwarf hamster (Russian, Siberian and Roborovsky) can live in pairs, as long as the two specimens are made known in the correct way. Do not put two specimens of different species in the same cage, they could fight each other and seriously injure themselves
Step 5. Prepare the litter box
At the bottom of the cage there should be a layer of soft material at least 7.5 cm thick. Pine or cedar wood shavings are not good for hamsters, as they can harm their health. they contain harmful oils and can cause breathing problems. Aspen wood, on the other hand, is safe because it does not contain harmful substances. Never use cotton: it is very dangerous, because it is indigestible; in addition, it can get tangled around the hamster's legs, blocking its circulation (which can have fatal consequences). The card can fit; also (and above all) the hygienic one, as long as it is not scented.
Part 3 of 6: Hamster Nutrition
Step 1. Feed the hamster daily
Give the hamster enough food to fill his cheeks: 15g for a golden hamster, 8g for a dwarf hamster. Make sure she has fresh food in her tray every day. Hamsters are animals that tend to collect everything compulsively and consequently put food aside; taking these supplies out of the cage can put a lot of stress on them, so if you are concerned about the quality of the food they tend to keep, remove it and replace it with fresh, in the same place where the old one was placed.
Use a clay or metal saucer as a food container; using a plastic container, there is a risk that the hamster will gnaw it
Step 2. Make sure he always has plenty of water
Hamsters don't drink a lot, but it's important that they have a drink when they're thirsty. Do not put the water in a saucer, as it will get dirty quickly and the hamster could turn it upside down; use a bottle or dispenser instead. Change the water every day (at least every three), so that it is always fresh.
Step 3. Use enriched food pellets or block food
Mixed seeds allow the hamster to eat what he finds most appetizing, perhaps discarding the healthiest foods. Base your hamster's diet on block feed or food pellets and use mixed seeds to supplement it. Make sure the hamster has eaten enough feed (or pellets) before feeding him the seeds.
Step 4. Spread the feed inside the cage and hide it in toys or tunnels
Make the hamster look for food instead of putting it in the saucer: by staying exercised, he will run less risk of becoming overweight.
Step 5. Avoid giving him "human" food
Avoid sweets, pasta, fresh meat or fish, and sugar. Hamsters can suffer from diabetes and foods that are low in sugar for a man can be harmful to his health.
Step 6. Give him a few treats, on a regular basis, two or three times a week
Hamsters especially love: carrots, cucumbers, apples, bananas, peppers, lettuce, celery, kale, dandelion leaves and many other fruits and vegetables. Some of these foods can complement your daily diet. Hamster treats are available in pet stores: yogurt flakes, chocolate chips (for hamsters), wooden blocks for rodents. Certain fruits and vegetables can be HARMFUL for your hamster: onions, almonds, beans, potatoes, fruit with seeds, avocado, chives, eggplant, scallions, spices, leeks, garlic, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and citrus are absolutely forbidden!
Step 7. Give him some chew sticks
There are various colors, sizes and tastes. Since your hamster's teeth are constantly growing, he needs to chew something to consume them a little. Chew sticks are ideal for this purpose; find one that your hamster likes and give it a nibble. Some hamsters do not like sticks and they start nibbling other objects in their habitat, such as the bars of the cage.
Part 4 of 6: Introducing it to the New Habitat
Step 1. Leave him alone and let him explore his new home
When you get home with your new hamster, put it in the cage (with its supply of water and food) and leave it alone. Cover the cage with a light cloth so she can explore her new environment in peace. Make sure there is enough food, water, and toys in the cage to keep him busy for a few days, as you shouldn't be interacting with him for the first few days. If there are children, friends or guests in the house, tell them not to disturb him.
Step 2. Get to know him gradually
After leaving him alone for three days, start getting closer. As you approach the cage, speak softly to warn him of your presence. The hamster may seem nervous at first, but remember that he doesn't know you and this is understandable. Start changing the water and food in the cage and replace the old toys with new ones; remove dirty parts of the litter box. This way, he will begin to get used to having your hands inside the cage.
Step 3. Start taming it
Beginning in the second week, start training your hamster (training sessions should be quite short). Most hamsters are active during the night, starting at sunset; try to understand when your hamster is livelier and train him at that moment.
- To tame your hamster, put a hand in the cage and let him explore and smell it; if he begins to nibble on it, slowly take your hand out of the cage, but immediately put it back in to let him explore it again. In this way, the animal will understand that the hand is not something to bite or fear. Afterward, hold some treats in your hand (use mixed seeds, which hamsters love). Attracted by the lure, he will begin to climb onto your hand and learn that the hand is something you can climb on. Gradually begin to move the bait, so that the hamster gets more and more used to climbing and moving on your hand.
- If the animal is making visible progress, try putting it on your hand before giving it a treat; will regard it as something positive. This time have him come up on his hand and then slowly lift it: He may be frightened at first, but you should be able to calm him down by talking softly and offering him a treat. Sit on the ground during this step, the hamster may try to escape and injure himself by falling (a fall of 15-20 cm can be enough to get hurt).
Step 4. Maintain your sleep cycle
Despite being nocturnal animals, hamsters move during the day to feed; when they do, they may appear awake, but are actually very sleepy and (typically) unwilling to play. For this reason, avoid having people around you interact with your hamster during the day. At least initially, it is important that the hamster only bond with you (there will be time to make him friends with other people) and see you as a friend who would never harm him.
Part 5 of 6: Keeping the Hamster Exercising
Step 1. Get a suitable hamster wheel
The wheels found in most cages are too small and are not good for the hamster's back (if his back curves upward as he runs inside the wheel, the wheel is too small). Get one that is at least 20 cm for a dwarf hamster and 28 cm for a Syrian hamster (you can also buy a larger cage).
Step 2. Make sure your hamster has plenty of toys to play with
Toilet paper rolls, tissue boxes, tubes (including PVC), cardboard boxes and rodent chew items are all fun toys for your hamster. Many owners simply give their hamster a wheel or a ball to play with, and as a result, the animal gets bored and gets into bad habits (nibbles at the cage bars, runs like a madman in the cage, etc.). Your hamster needs more to pass the time; let him have fun with different games and change them often so he doesn't get bored.
Step 3. Set up a playpen for him to play in
Your hamster will surely enjoy exploring the outside world, and having a playpen in which he can play will also serve you when you need to clean the cage. You can use a plastic storage rack or a small pet fence (which you can find at the best pet supply stores).
When you put him out of the cage, make sure he can't come into contact with dangerous objects (like electrical wires he might chew on) and he can't get out of the room you keep him in
Part 6 of 6: Cleaning the Cage
Step 1. Put the hamster in a safe place
While cleaning the cage, place the hamster in a safe playpen or container. It will take some time to clean the cage and you will need to have both hands free to do so; do not try to hold the hamster with one hand while cleaning with the other: you will do a bad job and unnecessarily stress the animal.
Step 2. Clean the cage thoroughly
Use simple dish soap diluted in water; the tiniest trace of other types of soap can cause annoyance to your little friend. Use special rodent soap, which you can find at pet supply stores.
You can also use a vinegar and water solution to clean the cage
Step 3. Rinse the cage and let it dry
Make sure the water has completely evaporated and all traces of soap (or other cleaning substance) have been removed. Remember that hamsters have a very developed sense of smell and the smell of vinegar or soap can be annoying.
Step 4. Replace the layer of material that makes up the litter box
When the litter is old, it should be replaced and not reused. Useful material can also be purchased at the grocery store. You can use small pieces of tissue or toilet paper. Do not use newspaper, as the hamster may lick the ink and become seriously ill. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, as they are harmful woods for hamsters; better to use aspen.
