Ceramic tiles are a versatile and durable material that can be laid on the floor or used as a wall covering in virtually any room, but especially in bathrooms and kitchens. A tiled wall resists moisture and scratches much better than a bare wall or wall covered with other materials, and is the ideal solution for humid environments such as bathrooms and kitchens, where the walls are also exposed to splashes of water or food. Learning how to cover a wall with tiles is a job within the reach of all those who are even only average experts. The process requires only some tools and working materials.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Preparing the wall and tiles
Step 1. Make sure the wall is ready to proceed
Remove any previous coatings and items such as electrical outlet covers and check if the wall you are going to work on is structurally solid. This is essential, because a damaged or weak wall can cause deformation, cracks or even collapse.
- Check for signs of mold or damage on the wall: cracks, for example, are often a sign of fragility of the wall that may require remaking.
- Apply pressure to the wall, especially near the nails. If you see that it crumbles or looks weak, preliminary work on the structure may be necessary.
- If you are going to cover a large surface, remember not to apply the tiles directly to the drywall but to use panels as a pre-base. The panels are installed like plasterboard walls (with nails), but they are made of more water resistant materials and will prevent the coated wall from deforming or cracking.
Step 2. Use a level and a tape measure to measure the area to be coated
Mark intermediate lines on the area to be coated. Find the midpoint both horizontally and vertically, it will help keep you in line as you apply the tiles and divide the area into sections.
Never think that the fixtures in a room, tub, sink (or even the ceiling) are perfectly level. They rarely are, which is why it is important to rely on a spirit level
Step 3. Mark the various points on the wall using a chalk line marker
With the marker, mark the middle and vertical lines you just measured. If you've never used a chalk line marker before, don't worry, it's simple. Apply a nail to one end of the area you marked, attach the thread, pull it and then let it snap. This will leave a straight line on the wall. Also check with the level but you will see that the line left is very accurate.
You can also use a regular string and hand mark the line with chalk, but using a marker, which you can buy for a few dollars, is usually much faster
Step 4. Prepare and cut the tiles using a water-based diamond circular saw
Dry lay the tiles to make sure that the result you get is what you want. When you're happy with the arrangement, try to figure out how to fit corners and spikes to the wall. In certain areas, you will probably only need part of the tile, which will then need to be cut to size. Measure how much space you need for each row of tiles, how much space you have left, and then cut the tiles using a wet diamond saw.
- For example, suppose your wall measures 1.5 meters and the tiles 14 cm with a gap between them of 6 mm. To cover the space you will need 10, 4 tiles for each row, which means 10 full tiles and one cut to 4 cm.
- If you don't own a water-powered diamond saw, you might want to rent one from your hardware store. You can also use a tile cutter, but you would probably risk finding yourself with crumbling tiles, so only choose this option if you are using low-priced tiles.
- Arranging the tiles dry is very important if they are to shape a design, and you will surely want to avoid making mistakes or having to spend too much time thinking when the mastic is already applied to the wall.
- You can verify your design by creating a layout frame that can be done with any smooth, level wood. Lay the tiles on a floor, and with a pencil mark the joints of the tiles on the frame. Then use the frame to check the arrangement of the tiles on the wall.
Step 5. Install a batten to make sure the first row is straight
When you have everything ready, install a batten, you will need it to make sure that the first row is perfectly straight. This is a piece of wood that you will use as a ruler to place the first row of tiles. Line up the top corner of the wood so that it exactly follows the middle line you marked and nail it to the bottom panel. After applying the tiles you can easily remove it.
Check that everything is level before applying the tiles to the batten. As you place the tiles keep checking that they are level, as the batten may have some slight irregularities
Part 2 of 3: Applying the tiles
Step 1. Mix the mortar
To apply the tiles you need a thin layer of mortar. Generally you should follow the manufacturer's instructions, but let's say the norm would be to put the powder in a bucket and slowly add water until you get a creamy consistency.
After mixing it, you should also let the mortar "cool". This means letting it sit for 10-15 minutes and then mixing it again. It is now ready for use
Step 2. Apply the mortar
Work in an area that roughly covers 60x90cm by applying the mortar with a notched trowel. With long and slow movements, pass the trowel slightly diagonally to the wall, so that the teeth can descend deeply creating grooves in the mortar. The direction of the grooves is not important, but the lines should be more or less parallel.
- The size of the trowel will depend on the size and type of tile you are using. For medium small tiles, which are the most common ones, you can use a 4x12 cm notched trowel.
- To check if the grout is mixed and applied correctly, test it with a tile. Apply the grout to a small area and place a tile, then peel it off and look at the back. If you see lines clearly, the grout is too dry. If you see shapeless heaps, the mortar is too wet.
Step 3. Apply the tiles to the wall
With the mortar ready you can start applying the tiles. Use a twisting motion to arrange them, attaching them to the small area you had prepared for verification. Insert the spacers as you go. These are usually in the shape of a cross, and are placed at the corners, but if you have unusual shaped tiles you will need to improvise by inserting only one arm between the tiles and leaving the rest of the spacer out.
- If grout comes out from under the tiles while you are placing them, you have applied too much and will need to use a smaller trowel.
- Check the alignment of the tiles as you go. In this case, a laser level would be very useful.
Part 3 of 3: Grouting the tiles
Step 1. Choose and mix the grout
You will have to choose which grout is suitable for your project depending on the size of the joints between one tile and another. Mix the grout following the instructions on the package making sure you also include any additives you need. Normally you will start with water in a bowl, to which you will add the powder until you have a paste that has the consistency of toothpaste. Only mix the amount you know you can use over the next 20 minutes, or the grout will dry out.
- Sandblasted putty is used for joints greater than 3 mm.
- Non-sandblasted putty is used for joints smaller than 3 mm.
- In your local shop you will find all kinds of additives, from the one that waterproofs the grout to the one that changes its color to match the tone of the tiles.
Step 2. Apply the grout using a trowel
Now apply the make-up remover (with a trowel) covering an area of about 100x100 cm or any other surface that you can fill in within 20 minutes. Maneuver the trowel at a 45 ° angle and press the grout into the joints with diagonal movements.
- Do not apply the grout parallel to the joints, as you would risk making it come back out.
- You can save yourself time if you use the trowel to remove as much grout from the tiles as possible.
Step 3. Clean the grout
After letting the grout rest for about twenty minutes, clean the tiles using a damp sponge to remove excess from the surface. Clean a small area, wash the sponge, and then continue cleaning.
It would be best to clean immediately after finishing each narrow area, but you can also clean after doing two or four. However, remember that the longer you wait, the harder it will be to remove the grout, and the end result may not look very professional
Step 4. Let it sit
Now let the grout sit for 3 hours or for as long as the product instructions recommend. Just make sure the area stays dry and there is adequate ventilation.
- Some additives slow down the time it takes for the grout to set. Check the instructions and see if there are any indications regarding the rest period.
- After letting the grout set, wipe off any remaining residue. You can use old socks or a dry rag.
Step 5. Seal the grout
Now that you have applied the tiles, it would be a good idea to apply a sealant to the grout to avoid the formation of mold in the joints. This should be repeated regularly every year (preferably every six months). There are several types of sealant, but basically these are waxes that are applied in circular motions using a rag.
- You can also buy ready-to-brush or spray sealant.
- Do not apply sealants on unglazed or unpainted tiles. It may get absorbed and stain the tiles.
Advice
- If you notice a film forming on the mortar, do not install the tiles. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
- In humid environments it would be better to apply a silicone strip that waterproofs the edges of the tile installation.
- Ceramic tiles can be applied to almost any surface, on finished or unfinished walls. But to get better adhesion it would be better to apply a concrete pre-base.
