Dyeing your hair gray is trendy, but it's a job that takes time, money and effort, unless you're naturally blonde. If you have black hair, you will need to do multiple bleaches and be patient for weeks before you can get the color you want. In general, it is possible to get a better result by relying on expert hands, but you can also give it a try at home.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Preparation for Gray
Step 1. Choose the right method
Consider using a DIY coloring kit, professional hair dye, or going to the hairdresser. Carefully evaluate the costs, processes and risks associated with each method.
- If you decide to go to the hairdresser, find out about the salons in the area. Costs and products vary. Check out the websites or call the various hairdressers to find out about the brands used and the rates. Talking to a professional in person will clarify your ideas about the process and the price.
- If you decide to buy a kit, read online reviews to find out which colors are best for black hair. One of the most popular is L'Oréal Excellence Creme 03 Ultra Light Ash. Hair will not go platinum blonde, but some people who have tried it claim that it allows you to achieve an ash blonde shade with just one application.
- Many people who decide to bleach their hair at home prefer to use professional products (bleach, activator, red-gold concealer and toner). In fact, they offer greater flexibility and effectiveness than kits, and you can also buy them in bulk to save money.
Step 2. Be prepared for the costs you will incur
Regardless of the method you choose, you will need various bleaches to get the gray you want.
Before choosing a method, you must definitely consider the time and expenses (such as going to the hairdresser often, buying different kits or materials for a professional dye)
Step 3. Consider the condition of your hair before proceeding with the bleaching
Many recommend going to the hairdresser to bleach your hair, unless it is a light / medium color and relatively short, thick and healthy. However, once the bleaching is done, you can touch up the regrowth on your own.
- Bleaching always damages the hair. This is why it is so important to have them as healthy as possible before getting them, whether you dye them at home or at the hairdresser.
- Even if they are healthy, you can heal them even more by avoiding chemicals and heat in the weeks (or months) leading up to the discoloration. You could also try doing a nourishing mask once a week.
Step 4. Treat your hair
In the weeks or months before bleaching, avoid using harsh chemicals and products. Set aside your styling tools as well. If your hair looks damaged, do a nourishing mask once a week until it is healthy enough to dye it.
- Experts recommend waiting at least 2 weeks before applying chemicals. This time frame can be shortened or lengthened depending on the condition of the hair.
- Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners that do not cause product buildup and that do not deprive the hair of natural sebum. Look for low pH products containing oils (argan, avocado or olive), glycerin, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, and alcohol starting with the letter "c" or "s".
- Avoid products with strong fragrances, alcohols whose names include the word "prop", sulfates, and products that promise to give hair volume.
Step 5. Get everything you need to dye your hair at home (optional)
If you decide to do the dye at home, you will first need to bleach them. You can find all the products you need in perfumery, in a beauty shop or online.
- Bleaching powder, available in sachets or jars. If you plan on doing more than one discoloration, one jar is cheaper in the long run.
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Oxidizing cream emulsion, which reacts with the powder to bleach the hair. It is available in different volumes, from 10 to 40. The higher the volume, the sooner the hair will become blond (but the procedure will also be more aggressive).
- Many hairdressers recommend 10 or 20. It will take longer to lighten your hair, but will be less damaging than higher volumes.
- If you have fine, brittle hair, use a 10-volume oxidizing emulsion. If they are dark and thick, you may need a 30-40 volume one.
- The 20 volume oxidizing emulsion is preferable to obtain a good result in a gentle way, so when in doubt choose that. Do not use the 50 in the house.
- Red gold concealer (optional). It is often available in sachets that you can add to the bleach solution to help reduce brassy undertones. This is an optional step, but highly recommended: in fact, the whiter the hair, the better the final result.
Step 6. Buy a toner (if you do the bleach / tint at home)
This product allows you to switch from yellow to white, which is the ideal base for gray. It is available in various shades, including blue, silver and purple. Even if you don't dye your hair at home, you can use a toner every few weeks to maintain the color.
- You can use a toner to neutralize a color you don't like. For example, to neutralize hair that is too golden, choose a color opposite to gold on the color wheel, such as blue or purple with an ash base.
- Some toners must be mixed with an oxidizing emulsion before application, while others are ready to use. Both types are effective, so choose the one you prefer.
Step 7. Buy a gray tint (if you are going to make it at home)
You can find it in a beauty shop or on the internet. If you buy it online, pay attention to the reviews.
If the veins on the inside of your wrist are blue or purple, opt for a cool gray, while if they are green or yellow, choose a warm one, such as lead gray
Step 8. Buy the tools for making the dye (if you are going to make it at home)
If you are going to do the bleaching, toning and tinting at home, you will need a special applicator / brush, a plastic mixing bowl, a plastic spoon, gloves, hair tongs, towels and cling film or a shower cap. plastic. Avoid metal tools, as they will react with the bleach.
Step 9. Buy good quality shampoo and conditioner
Purple shampoos and conditioners specifically for gray hair can help maintain color and prevent strands from fading, turning yellow or blonde. If you can't find them, buy products designed for dyed hair.
There are also gray coloring shampoos. If you prefer not to use this product, at least buy a mask or other coloring treatment in order to maintain the color - and spend less on touch-ups
Part 2 of 5: Bleach
Step 1. Before bleaching, do a patch test and a test on an entire strand
The patch test is needed to make sure you are not allergic to any ingredients, while the second test helps you calculate how long to leave the bleach on.
- To do a patch test, prepare a very small amount of the bleach solution and apply it behind the ear. Leave it on for 30 minutes, remove excess, then try not to touch or wet the area for 48 hours. If the skin does not react, proceed with the discoloration.
- To test a strand, prepare a small amount of bleach solution and apply it. Check it every 10-15 minutes until it reaches the desired color. Calculate how long it takes, so you get an idea of the time it takes for the whole head.
- If you can only take one test, go for the first one. A severe allergic reaction could be fatal.
Step 2. Before bleaching, apply coconut oil to your hair (optional)
Heat it between your palms, then massage it into your hair and scalp. You don't have to discard it before bleaching.
- Before bleaching your hair, leave it on for at least 3 hours. If possible, wait overnight, then do the bleaching the next morning.
- Coconut oil is effective for moisturizing hair because it is made up of molecules small enough to be able to penetrate the shaft.
Step 3. Protect your clothes and hair
Wear old clothes that you can easily get dirty and place an old towel over your shoulders. Use flexible disposable rubber gloves to protect your hands.
Prepare a pile of old towels - you may need to wipe the bleach solution off your skin or something else
Step 4. Pour the bleaching powder into a bowl using a plastic spoon
The packaging should have easy-to-follow instructions.
If not provided with instructions, calculate a ratio of approximately 1: 1 between the powder and the oxidizing emulsion. Add one tablespoon of powder and one tablespoon of emulsion, then mix until you get the amount you need
Step 5. Mix the bleaching powder with the oxidizing emulsion
Pour the right amount of emulsion into the bowl and mix it with the powder using a plastic spoon. Aim for a thick, creamy consistency.
Unless otherwise noted on the package, the proportions should be more or less than 1: 1, i.e. 1 tablespoon of powder per 1 of emulsion
Step 6. Add a red gold concealer
After mixing the powder and emulsion, pour in some red-gold concealer. Read the instructions on the package to find out how much to use.
Step 7. Apply the solution to dry hair that has not been washed for 24-48 hours
Use a special brush. Work on strands of 3-5 cm. Start from the tips and work your way up, leaving about 3 cm at the roots (you will dye them at the end).
- The heat from the scalp will cause the emulsion to act faster on the roots than on the rest of the hair: this is why they should be dyed last.
- Work from the back of the head to the front. This will help you see where you have applied the bleach / dye much more easily and will prevent the product from getting on your clothes.
- Unless you have particularly short hair, pin it up with tongs as you go.
Step 8. At the end of the application (roots included), check that you have evenly distributed the bleaching solution and that the hair is well impregnated
- You can do this by massaging your hair to feel if there are any spots that are drier than others. When you find some, add some bleaching solution and distribute it by massaging it on the lengths. Avoid massaging your scalp, or you will irritate it.
- Use a mirror to better see the back of the head.
Step 9. Cover your hair with cling film or a plastic shower cap
As the bleach does its job, the scalp may start to itch and itch. It's normal.
- If the discomfort is unbearable, remove the plastic film and discard the bleach. Is the hair still too dark? Try bleaching them again with a lower volume emulsifier cream after 2 weeks, as long as your hair is healthy enough.
- Resist the temptation to use heat sources on your hair, otherwise you risk making it fall out.
Step 10. Check your hair frequently
After 15 minutes, check a strand to see the progress of the bleaching. Remove part of the bleach solution with a towel to clearly see the color obtained.
- If your hair is still dark, reapply more bleach on the strand, put the cap back on and leave it on for another 10 minutes.
- Keep checking them every 10 minutes until they are blonde.
Step 11. Do not let the bleach act for more than 50 minutes, otherwise the hair may break and / or fall out
The bleach can ruin them, so be very careful.
Step 12. Remove the bleach
Remove the plastic wrap / cap and rinse your hair with cold water until the bleach is completely removed. Wash them, apply conditioner and rinse them, then pat them dry with a clean towel.
Step 13. Determine if you need to repeat the bleaching
Hair should be pale or bright yellow. If so, read the toning section of this article. If they are orange or otherwise dark, you will need to bleach them again, but allow at least 2 weeks between treatments.
- The darker the blonde, the darker the gray, so bleach your hair to whatever tone you want.
- If the roots are whiter than the rest of the hair, you don't need to reapply the bleach. Only put it on the parts you want to lighten further.
- The bleaching process may need to be spread over several weeks. Depending on the color and thickness of the hair, it may take up to 5 bleaches to achieve a pale yellow.
Part 3 of 5: Toning
Step 1. Prepare for toning
Just like you did for the bleaching, put on old clothes and gloves. Keep a stack of towels handy and dampen your hair before starting.
Step 2. Prepare the toner
If it is ready to use, skip this step. In a clean plastic bowl, mix the toner and oxidizer emulsion according to the directions on the package.
The proportion is usually as follows: 1 part of toner to 2 of emulsion
Step 3. Apply the toner to damp hair
With a dye brush, follow the same technique used for applying the bleach (from tips to roots, back to front).
Step 4. Make sure you apply the toner evenly
Massage the hair with your hands to make sure it is well soaked and that the application is even.
Look at the back of your head with a mirror to make sure the toner completely covers your hair
Step 5. Cover your hair with cling film or a shower cap
Leave the toner on for the time indicated on the package. Depending on the effectiveness of the product and the starting color, it can take just 10 minutes to have white hair.
Step 6. Check your hair every 10 minutes
Depending on the type of toner used and the starting color, the procedure may be faster or slower than expected.
Check your hair every 10 minutes to make sure you don't find it blue. With a towel, wipe some toner off a thin section to get an idea of the color. If you still haven't gotten the one you want, reapply it on this section and put the cap or cling film back on
Step 7. Thoroughly wash off the toner with cold water
Shampoo and conditioner as usual, then pat your hair dry with a clean towel.
Step 8. Examine the hair
Let them air dry or, if you are impatient, use the hair dryer by setting it to the lowest temperature. Now that you've completed the bleaching and toning process, your hair should be white.
If you missed a strand, wait a few days and repeat the process on the affected area
Part 4 of 5: Making the Dye
Step 1. Before dyeing, do a patch test and a test on a strand
If you have no particular preferences regarding the final result, you can skip the lock test, while the patch test is absolutely necessary because an allergic reaction could be lethal.
To test a strand, follow the instructions on the package of the dye you bought. Generally, a small amount of oxidizing emulsion (or, in some cases, the entire solution) should be massaged into the skin behind one ear and left to act for 48 hours
Step 2. Protect your clothes and skin
Use old clothes and towels, plus put on rubber gloves (such as disposable vinyl or latex gloves). Keep other towels handy - you may need them to clean your skin.
You can also apply petroleum jelly or a full-bodied moisturizer to the hairline to prevent the dye from staining the skin
Step 3. Prepare the tint
The exact steps depend on the type of product you bought. There are special kits on the market, but almost all DIY dye experts prefer professional products.
Just like you did with the bleach, use a plastic bowl and a dye brush to mix
Step 4. Prepare the hair for the dye
Read the instructions on the package to find out if the hair should be dry or wet during application (this in fact varies depending on the color used). If they are long, collect them in sections with pliers.
Try dividing them into 8 sections: 4 on each side, working vertically from the nape to the forehead. If you have particularly thick hair, you will need to split it further (add at least 2 sections on the front parts of the head)
Step 5. Apply the dye on the lengths with a special brush
Paint one 5cm section at a time, working from the tips to the roots. Stop about 2-3 cm from the roots.
The heat from the scalp will make the dye work faster, so dye the roots eventually
Step 6. Apply the dye to the roots
After the application on the lengths, repeat the procedure on the roots.
Step 7. Try to apply evenly
When you finish applying the dye, check the back of your head with a mirror to make sure you have distributed it well. Gently massage the hair with your hands to check it with greater accuracy.
If you find dry spots, add more dye
Step 8. Cover your hair with plastic wrap or a clear shower cap and wait for the dye to take effect
The wait depends on the product used. On average, you have to wait 30 minutes.
Step 9. Check your hair
Some packages suggest generic shutter speeds, for example 20-40 minutes. After 20 minutes, you could remove some color from a strand with a towel and check the result.
- If you are satisfied, you can wash your hair. If you want the color to be more intense, reapply the dye on the strand and let it work longer. Just make sure you don't exceed the recommended time, otherwise you risk damaging your hair - or even losing it.
- If you are not sure how long to leave the dye on, you may want to do a test on a hidden spot. This way you can understand how long to wait to get the color you want.
Step 10. Once the dye has done its work, rinse your hair with cold water, then wash it and apply conditioner as usual
Step 11. Treat them gently
After washing, pat them gently with a towel. Do not rub or treat them aggressively while drying. After dyeing, you should also avoid styling tools as much as possible.
Avoid styling your hair with tools that require the use of heat
Step 12. Enjoy the result
Remember that from now on you will have to give your hair a lot of care, as you have bleached it. Part of the gray tint will help you regain the vitality of your hair, but you still need to treat it gently.
Part 5 of 5: Taking Care of Gray Hair
Step 1. Treat them with extreme delicacy
Bleached hair is brittle and damaged, although it is in the best possible condition. Take care of them, do not wash them if they are dry, do not overdo it with a brush, plate and curling iron.
- In most cases, let them air dry. If you have to use a hairdryer, set it to the lowest temperature.
- Do not use heat and do not manipulate the natural shape of the hair, otherwise you risk breaking it and end up with strands of only 1-2 cm sticking out of the head.
- If you need to straighten them, you can get a good result using a hairdryer and a round brush: it is a valid alternative to the straightener.
- Use a wide-toothed comb.
Step 2. Do a pre-shampoo treatment (optional)
Bleached hair is porous and can undergo color changes due to water. Preparing them before washing will help repel water and protect the dye.
Pre-shampoo treatments can be found in hair salons, beauty shops, and online. They often contain oils, such as coconut or almond, to promote good hydration before washing
Step 3. Wait between washes
Many experts recommend shampooing only once a week following discoloration. The shampoo drains the sebum, but bleached hair badly needs it.
- If you work out / sweat regularly or use a lot of hair products, you can wash them up to 2 times a week, but you can also replace the classic shampoo with a dry one.
- When you dry them, pat them gently with a towel. Do not rub them, or you will damage them even more.
Step 4. Find out which products to use
Choose specific for bleached, dyed and damaged hair. To get started, you need a purple shampoo and conditioner. Avoid volumizing products, as they can dry them out.
A good hair oil will make them look softer and less frizzy. Some say that extra virgin coconut oil reduces frizz and helps discipline
Step 5. Get a nourishing treatment at least once a week
Buy a good quality one from your hairdresser or a beauty shop. Avoid supermarket brands, they will only coat your hair, creating a waxy and weighted effect.
Step 6. Don't neglect regrowth
Try to do a touch up when the roots do not exceed 2 cm, this way the color will appear more uniform. If you let your hair grow, it will be more difficult to operate and you risk an uneven result.
Step 7. Do the touch-ups the right way
The process of bleaching, toning and retouching the regrowth is practically the same as what you did on the entire head. The only difference is that it must be limited to the roots.
- If the rest of your hair needs a touch up, you can apply a toner after bleaching the roots. Rinse them and apply the gray tint to the entire hair. However, this time start from the base and work your way up the lengths, as the roots will need more color.
- Some experts recommend never dyeing the first few millimeters of the roots, in order to have a healthier scalp and follicles. If you decide to do this, you will never apply the bleach to all the roots, to prevent it from coming into contact with the scalp.
Advice
- Going to the hairdresser is more expensive, but is especially recommended if you have thick black hair that requires more bleaching. It is also recommended for those who have never done this treatment in the past.
- The whiter the hair, the purer the gray, so try to get a good result before dyeing.
- Before you paint, try consulting an app or website to see how you would look. Going from black to gray takes a lot of time and money, so make sure you really want it, before doing such an expensive and aggressive hair treatment.
- Dye your hair in a period of time that allows you to correct any mistakes, not in preparation for events such as an important job interview, the first day of school, a wedding or whatever.
- Take your time. Wait plenty between bleaching and dyeing, and take advantage of this wait to nourish your hair. This will help keep them in the best possible condition.
- You may need to repeat toning more than once.
- Like all hair that needs regular bleaching, gray hair also takes time and money. Before dyeing them, consider whether you are willing to put in all the necessary effort.
- If you change your mind, wait at least 2 weeks before getting a permanent dye.
- If after bleaching you decide to dye your hair a different color, it may be necessary to use a special product to recover the missing pigmentation before proceeding with the application of the dye.
- If you don't know which shade of gray will enhance your complexion, go to a wig store and try some. Remember that in most cases you will need to ask a salesperson to assist you. Explain what your intentions are before giving it a try.
- If you continue to use styling tools, apply a good heat shield first. It is a product available in spray, cream and mousse. You can find it in beauty shops or at the hairdresser.
- Bleaching is most effective on healthy hair that has never been dyed, permed, straightened, or other chemical treatments.
- If you dye your hair at home, the doses of the products will depend on how much hair you have and the packaging you buy. To be on the safe side, always buy more things than you think you might need.
Warnings
- Try not to let the hair come into contact with the skin: the dye stains.
- Avoid at all costs that the bleach ends up on the skin: it can irritate and burn.
- If you discolour damaged or weak hair, you are more likely to damage or break it. Do not style them with electric tools and do not shampoo regularly before bleaching.
- Bleaching can damage your hair - be careful and moisturize it well.
- If you don't use gloves, the bleach can cause burning on open wounds, making them white, extremely dry and irritated.
- Chlorine from swimming pools can make hair greenish. If you swim, apply a leave-in conditioner and put on a swimming cap before entering the water.
- Do not bleach your hair immediately after washing it. Washing removes the sebum, so your scalp and hair will be much more prone to problems. Better to wait at least 24 hours.
- Try to be patient. If you try to lighten them too quickly, you risk causing them to snap, fall, or cause chemical burns.
- To keep them as healthy as possible, use only moisturizing styling products. Avoid those that add volume, because they will dry them out.