The milk snakes (lampropeltis elapsoides) can be of different sizes, so they range from the Sinaloa milk snake, which reaches a length of 120-150 cm, to the Pueblan snake of just 60-90 cm. They are generally very docile and hardy animals, and are a great starting choice for beginners. Breeders have managed to produce a certain variety of breeds with liveries of various colors, however the classic red, black and white banded coloring is still very popular.
Steps
Part 1 of 6: Check the Serpent's Health Status
Step 1. Check that the snake is in good health
Let the snake slide between your fingers. If you feel lumps under his skin, it could be food lumps, but also a broken rib. Check the cloaca for signs of swelling, redness or stool deposits, as these could indicate an endoparasite infestation. Check your hands to make sure there are no traces of blood, which could be due to the presence of mites. Finally check the mouth and eyes of the snake: the eyes should be shiny and the look alert, while the fluids of the mouth must not contain traces of mucus and there must be no shortness of breath, in which case it could be a tract infection respiratory or dehydration.
Part 2 of 6: Setting up the Terrarium
Step 1. Prepare the terrarium before you get the snake
The display case can be bought or built with MDF panels (medium density fibreboard) or sturdy wood panels (do not use cedar wood, as it is toxic to snakes, nor pine wood). Aquariums are also perfect for housing snakes. Make sure the case is escape-proof. Many snakes can go through the smallest crevices, so adjust with a pencil - if a pencil can go through a crevice, then the snake can go through it too, but of course this doesn't apply to babies. The milk snake terrarium can be closed at the top by a simple tightly meshed net, as this snake does not need particularly humid environments. If there are any problems during moulting, close the ventilation hole halfway and place a larger water container in the terrarium.
Step 2. Prepare the bottom substrate of the terrarium
You can use natural materials such as wood shavings (always being careful not to use cedar, as it is toxic to snakes, and pine, whose effects on reptiles have not yet been sufficiently investigated) or for example the bark for orchids, which is excellent for maintaining the right degree of humidity, although this aspect is not essential for milk snakes. The aspen has recently been in great demand by enthusiasts as it is easily available. Newspaper sheets are also often used to prepare the terrarium substrate, as it appears to work with many snakes. The important thing is that it is a material under which the snake can easily hide. Don't use sand (most snakes find it irritating) or aquarium gravel.
Step 3. Set up at least two hiding places or burrows in the terrarium
The semi-circular pieces of bark are very popular with snakes. You can also find several reptile hiding places on the market, or use a pot lying on its side. Place one of the hiding places in the coldest point of the terrarium and the other in the warmest point. This will promote the snake's thermoregulation during digestion. Lack of a burrow to hide will put stress on the snake, which may stop eating. This is particularly the case with milk snakes, which are extremely shy and spend a lot of time hiding in confined spaces.
Step 4. Make sure the terrarium is warmed up
As a heating source, you can use a ceramic bulb at least 30 cm away from the snake, positioning it so that the reptile cannot touch or wrap itself around it. Any heating system you decide to use will be accompanied by a thermostat. Excessive heating of the terrarium could result in rapid dehydration, loss of body heat or temporary neurological damage to the animal. For the milk snake, the ideal terrarium temperature is around 25 ° C, with a decrease of 5-7 degrees during the night. It is also important to create a dry area of the terrarium that reaches a higher temperature, around 28-30 ° C. Observe your snake, if it spends more time in one area of the terrarium than in others and does not seem to be able to thermoregulate, try to regulate the temperature of the terrarium differently. For example, if the snake "hugs" the terrarium heating source, you may want to increase the temperature by 2-3 degrees.
Step 5. Install a lighting system
Terrarium lighting is not strictly necessary, however it gives a harmonious and pleasant atmosphere to the environment, as well as helping the snake to develop a natural routine and stimulate its appetite. Exposure to UVB rays has been shown to promote calcium absorption in most reptiles. The light bulb must not exceed 2.0 W of power and must be positioned at least 30 centimeters away from the snake so as not to damage its eyes.
Part 3 of 6: Feeding the Snake
Step 1. Place a water bowl in the terrarium
The bowl should be large enough to allow the snake to fully immerse itself in it without spilling any water. Make sure the water is always clean and fresh, change it at least every 2-3 days and when it smells bad.
Step 2. Get the right food for your snake
Throughout its lifespan, the milk snake should be fed frozen and specially thawed mice before each meal. Baby snakes can generally be fed milk snakes every 7-10 days, while adults will be fed every 10-14 days. It is preferable not to offer live mice to the snake to prevent it from getting hurt.
Part 4 of 6: Cleaning the Terrarium
Step 1. Keep your snake's environment clean and sanitized
The substrate should be changed every month and the faeces removed from the terrarium immediately with a scoop. Make sure the substrate does not get dirty or wet to avoid respiratory infections and the snake's scales from rotting.
The water bowl should be cleaned with a suitable liquid soap and rinsed thoroughly every week. The structures inside the terrarium should be cleaned at least once a month. The pieces of bark can be disinfected in an oven or in a microwave for different time intervals, depending on the size of the piece of bark and the oven used. The terrarium case should be washed at least once a month with soapy water and rinsed thoroughly
Part 5 of 6: Skin Shedding or Ecdysis
Step 1. Get your snake in a position to moult
Milk snakes shed their skin, it comes off in one piece. The eyes of snakes are covered by a transparent structure, called glasses. Then check the old skin around your head to make sure the glasses have come off as well. Snakes sometimes have a hard time shedding old skin around the tail and this can cause circulation difficulties. Young milk snake specimens also moult more than 12 times a year, while adults with much less frequency. However, the number of moults can vary for each adult animal and depends on various factors; for example, if the skin is torn or otherwise damaged, shedding will occur more frequently.
Part 6 of 6: Welcome a Snake into the House
Step 1. Be very careful when taking a snake indoors
Immediately place it in temporary quarantine in a basic and clean environment for 4-6 weeks. During this time, observe if the snake exhibits any strange behavior, such as losing its grip, falling off objects, slumping on its side, or any other unusual or alarming behavior. Have your vet analyze your snake's feces to make sure it doesn't have parasites. After quarantine, you can introduce your snake to a terrarium decorated with live plants, equipped with structures for it to climb and hide, so that it can live in a welcoming environment.
Step 2. Be very careful when you decide to add another snake to the same terrarium
Make sure the snakes get along well, otherwise you'll have to set up separate terrariums for each one. Make sure you prevent the two reptiles from competing for food, possibly feeding them separately at different times, in an empty case used exclusively as a "mess hall" where you will move each snake when you feed it. Finally, check that the two snakes interact with each other, otherwise making them live in the same terrarium will have no purpose.
Warnings
- Snakes that are touched excessively are at risk of developing a muscle disease characterized by excessive slackness, they can lose the lucidity of the livery and stop eating. Get a log to track your snake's typical behaviors and moulting so that you can quickly spot potential abnormalities, such as a change in skin that doesn't match the moult and that may indicate a problem.
- Milk snakes are extremely slender and curious animals, and it is very common for them to escape from the terrarium. Close every crevice of the terrarium case with particular care to avoid unpleasant accidents.
- Although milk snakes are extremely docile creatures by nature, they suffer greatly from excessive manipulation, so they should be touched as little as possible, for a maximum of about 6 minutes every two days and never during moulting. That way you and your snake shouldn't have any problems.
