White spot disease, whose specific term is ichthyophtyriasis, is an infection caused by a parasite that all tropical fish enthusiasts have to deal with at one time or another. It is the leading cause of death among fish compared to any other disease. The infection particularly affects animals living in aquariums, due to close contact with other specimens and the stress due to life in these reduced and insufficient environments compared to natural bodies of water. Both freshwater and saltwater tropical fish can get sick, but different treatments are required based on the specific ecosystem and its inhabitants.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Knowing How White Spot Disease Works
Step 1. Distinguish disease affecting freshwater fish from saltwater fish
To be precise, it acts in the same way on various types of fish, but has a different life cycle and requires different treatments. In both cases, the parasite attaches itself to the host fish to complete its life cycle. In nature (in lakes or seas), disease is less of a problem, as some parasites are unable to find a host. When they attach to a fish, they sometimes fall off and the fish is able to swim free of them and spontaneously heal. In a restricted environment such as an aquarium, however, these protozoa can easily attach themselves, multiplying and infesting the whole tank; they can also decimate the entire fish population present.
- In freshwater, white spot disease is known as ichthyophthyriasis.
- In seawater, its correct term is cryptocaryon irritans and is often confused with infections of other parasites that cause white spots. Protozoa on marine fish typically take longer to multiply than those affecting freshwater fish, but they only have 12 or 18 hours to find a host before they die, unlike the others, which can last up to 48 hours without latching onto a fish.
Step 2. Know that stress is the most likely factor in fish becoming infected
As this is a fairly common disease, most fish have developed good immunity. However, stress can weaken the immune system and as a result the disease can attack more easily. Fish can get stressed out due to:
- Inadequate water temperature or poor water quality;
- Presence of other fish in the aquarium;
- Presence of new fish in the aquarium;
- Wrong feeding;
- Transport and handling of fish during a transfer;
- The home environment itself, especially if there is a lot of noise in the house, doors slamming, opening and closing often or if there is a lot of movement around the aquarium.
Step 3. Learn to recognize the symptoms of the disease
These are physically visible and interfere with his behavior. The most evident is the appearance of white dots that look like grains of salt and that give the disease its name. The most common symptoms and signs of the disease are:
- White dots that form all over the body and gills of the fish. They can appear very close together and form white patches. Sometimes they are present only on the gills.
- Excessive movements. The fish may be rubbing exaggeratedly against plants or rocks in the aquarium in an attempt to get rid of parasites or because the disease causes irritation.
- Fins blocked. The fish constantly folds them against the body rather than letting them rest freely on their hips.
- Respiratory difficulties. If you see the fish panting on the surface of the water or sticking around the aquarium filter, they are probably suffering from a lack of oxygen. When the white dots are on the gills, the fish has a hard time absorbing oxygen from the water.
- Loss of appetite. If you don't eat or spit your food, it could be a sign of stress and illness.
- Shy behavior. Animals often go into hiding when they are sick, and any changes in their behavior are usually a sign of stress or illness. You may see your fish hiding in the aquarium decorations or not being as active as usual.
Step 4. Start treating the fish when the parasite is most vulnerable
The protozoan can be killed when it is not attached to the fish, that is, when it is in full maturity and detaches from the host's body to replicate and create new pests. When on the animal, it is protected from chemicals and the treatment is not effective. Its life cycle consists of several stages:
- Trophon phase: The parasite is visible on the fish's body and burrows under the mucous lining to protect itself from chemicals, so any treatment becomes ineffective. In a typical aquarium with a water temperature of around 24-27 ° C this phase lasts a few days before the fully developed cyst falls from the body of the fish.
- Tomonte phase: at this stage it is possible to treat the disease. The parasite floats for a few hours in the water until it attaches itself to a plant or other surface. Once it adheres to an element, it begins to divide or replicate rapidly within the cyst. Within a few days the cyst will open and new organisms will start swimming in search of other hosts. In fresh water these can multiply over 8 hours, while in salt water they take 3 to 28 days.
- Theron phase: in this phase, the parasite in fresh water must find a host within 48 hours otherwise it will die, while in sea water it has only 12-18 hours available. For this reason, a safe way to avoid the presence of protozoa is to leave the aquarium without fish for a week or two.
Step 5. Pay attention to the water temperature
When it is too high, the parasite's life cycle accelerates. Under these circumstances, the pest needs a couple of days to complete its life cycle, while when the temperature is lower it takes weeks.
- Never increase the water temperature dramatically, otherwise you may stress the fish and some cannot tolerate water that is too hot.
- Most tropical fish can withstand temperatures of up to 30 ° C. Always consult an expert on these animals or inquire about the characteristics of your specific fish to know the acceptable temperature.
Part 2 of 5: Simple Treatments
Step 1. Raise the water temperature up to 30 ° C
You have to gradually raise it by 1 ° C every hour until it reaches the correct one; afterwards, keep it constant for at least 10 days. As already explained, high temperatures accelerate the life process of parasites and can prevent them from reaching the tomonte phase, in which they replicate.
- Make sure in advance that the other fish in the aquarium also tolerate water at 30 ° C.
- If the fish can tolerate temperatures above 30 ° C, bring the aquarium temperature to 32 ° C for 3-4 days and then lower it back to 30 ° C for another 10 days.
- Make sure the aquarium is sufficiently oxygenated or aerated, as the water is able to hold less oxygen when it is warm.
- At the same time, you can treat the water daily with salt or a drug.
- Always make sure the fish is able to withstand rising temperatures. Observe their reactions as you slowly heat the water or find out what your pet's maximum tolerance level is.
Step 2. Increase the amount of oxygen or aeration in the aquarium to improve the fish's immune system and quality of life
Since the parasite reduces the animal's ability to breathe and absorb oxygen, increasing the aeration of the water will allow the immune system to strengthen and save the fish from death by suffocation. There are several ways to proceed:
- Increase the water level until the water emitted by the filter hits the surface, increasing oxygenation.
- Add more porous stones to the aquarium or move them close to the surface.
- Insert ring pumps to increase the flow of bubbles.
- If you wish, you can use submersible pumps, because they increase the amount of oxygen and at the same time improve the movement of the water in the tank.
Part 3 of 5: Moderate Treatments
Step 1. Use aquarium salt to treat freshwater fish disease
Dissolve a teaspoon of salt for every 4 liters of aquarium water, first mixing the two ingredients in a separate container to later add them to the tank. Leave the salt in the freshwater aquarium for 10 days. The salt disrupts the parasite's fluid regulation and stimulates the fish to produce the mucus that protects their bodies. Combine the salt treatment with increasing the water temperature to kill the protozoan more effectively.
- Use fish-specific salt and not table salt that contains iodine.
- Never use drugs in combination with salt and heat, as their synergistic action reduces the availability of oxygen in the tank.
- Change 25% of the water every few days and add only the amount of salt needed to balance the concentration. At the end of the treatment, continue with partial water changes without adding salt.
Step 2. 25% of the water changes every day
In this way, you eliminate part of the parasites that are in the trophon and tomonte phase, while increasing the amount of oxygen. Remember to use treated water to prevent excess chlorine from stressing the fish or worsening the condition of their wounds.
If water changes agitate the fish, decrease the volume of water or the frequency of water changes
Part 4 of 5: Complex Treatments
Step 1. Use medications to treat the aquarium
In pet stores you can find different products that are right for you. Always follow the instructions on the package to the letter regarding dosage, check which type of fish the medicine can be used safely and make sure it is not harmful to snails, shrimps, shells and other invertebrates that may be present in the aquarium.
- Before administering the drug, always change the water and clean the gravel with a vacuum cleaner. The medicine is most effective if the water is clean with no other organic compounds or dissolved nitrates.
- Always remove the charcoal from the filter as it can neutralize or retain the drug.
Step 2. Use copper to treat infestation in a saltwater aquarium
Since the parasite in salt water stays in the tomonte phase for a longer time, it is possible to add copper to the aquarium for 14-25 days. The metal works in a similar way to salt and kills the protozoan. However, it must be added in a very precise dosage and a constant daily check of its levels in the water is necessary using a special kit.
- Always read and follow the instructions on the package.
- Remove the charcoal from the filter as it may neutralize or retain the drug.
- Copper reacts with calcium or magnesium carbonate present in stones and gravel; you must therefore only use it in an aquarium devoid of decorations.
- It is a highly toxic metal for invertebrates, corals and plants. Remove all of these organisms from the aquarium and treat them with other safe methods.
Step 3. Use stronger chemicals to eradicate the disease from saltwater aquariums
These methods can be dangerous alternative treatments; some can even harm fish, which must be constantly monitored so that they do not die from the chemical. Always read packaging labels carefully and wear protective clothing such as gloves and goggles when handling such substances. Some of these treatments are listed below:
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Malachite green:
it works in a similar way to chemotherapy on humans and prevents all cells from producing the energy needed for metabolic processes. This chemical cannot distinguish the cells of the fish from those of the parasite.
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Formaldehyde:
kills microorganisms by reacting with cell proteins and nucleic acids, altering their function and structure. It is also sometimes used to store biological samples. It can damage the filtration system, deplete the amount of oxygen available and kill the invertebrates in the tank.
Part 5 of 5: Prevention
Step 1. Never buy a fish that lives in a tank where other fish show signs of disease
Before purchasing the inhabitants of your aquarium, carefully observe all the specimens in the store to be sure they are healthy. Even if your fish does not exhibit the classic symptoms, it may still have been exposed to the parasite and could contaminate your home tank.
Some specimens have very good immune systems and can become healthy carriers. However, if you include a healthy carrier in your aquarium, you risk infecting all other fish and animals already present, which may not have as strong an immune system as that of the new tenant
Step 2. Quarantine each new pet for at least 14-21 days
Keep it in a smaller aquarium and monitor it for symptoms of disease. If you notice something wrong, the treatment is much easier. However, remember to always use the full dosage of the product or drug of your choice. Do not think that a small aquarium requires a lower dosage.
When placing new fish in a quarantine tank or any other aquarium, you should never add water to the container it was in previously. In this way, you reduce the chances of transferring the parasites that are in the tomonte phase
Step 3. Use separate screens for different aquariums
This precaution also prevents contagion. For the same reason, use different sponges and other cleaning tools for each tub.
If you can't afford several nets, sponges and cleaning tools, make sure they are completely dry before using them in another aquarium. The parasite cannot survive in a dry environment
Step 4. Buy plants that come from fish-free aquariums
Those living in tanks with animals carry more disease than those grown separately. Alternatively, quarantine them for 10 days in a fish-free container and treat them with anti-parasite medications if you are unsure if they are healthy.
Advice
- When treating this disease, change or get rid of the sand, gravel, stones and any other decorations found in the aquarium. The parasite tends to adhere to surfaces to replicate; wash and dry all these items to kill the unwanted guest.
- When you have finished your medication or salt treatment and any symptoms of the disease have disappeared, gradually change the aquarium water to get rid of any traces of the medicine. Prolonged exposure to chemicals can stress and harm the fish.
