Taming a feral cat takes time, knowledge and patience, as well as a lot of caution. A wild specimen is basically a domestic cat that has returned to the wild and is not used to human presence. If your cat, adult or puppy, looks healthy and you want to try to tame it, keep in mind that it may be afraid of you and may bite you. However, if you find or have been given a frightened and fearful stray cat or puppy that tolerates some interaction with humans without biting, you can attempt to tame it and make it a pleasant companion animal. You will never be able to make a cat that lives indoors, but it can become a good feline friend who stays in the garden and tolerates your presence. Sometimes, all it takes is a lot of patience. Your first goal is to make him feel comfortable around you, after which a vet check-up is very important to make sure he is healthy.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Observe the Nature of the Cat
Step 1. Get to know his personality
Observe the cat for a few days, in order to understand its temperament, especially when people get close to it; pay attention if he seems frightened, afraid or angry about the presence of humans.
If you fear it might be dangerous, don't try to pick him up; in this case, call the veterinary center of the ASL or some animal rights association, so that the cat is handled and captured by qualified personnel
Step 2. Watch her body language
Cats communicate their feelings quite clearly using their body. For instance:
- An angry or annoyed cat keeps its ears flattened and backwards, has dilated pupils, moves its tail back and forth, arches its back, raises its fur and may even growl; all of this means you should back off.
- If it does not run away, a frightened cat usually lies on the ground or holds its tail between its paws; with this type of cat you have to proceed with great caution.
- Otherwise, if the cat is lively and relaxed, it keeps its ears forward ready to pick up any sound and its tail straight up; it does not raise the hair, which is instead flattened on the body. He can also stretch, lie down and roll onto his back.
Step 3. Pay attention to your general health
You should avoid getting too close, but you can still notice if it looks healthy overall even from a distance. See if he looks skinny and all bone - he may be hungry. Look at the fur to understand if it is cured or if it is dull, patchy, with areas of alopecia or somehow suggests that there is a disease. Also check if your cat is showing any other obvious signs of illness, such as limping, cuts, sores, or other problems.
Step 4. Stay away from the cat if you suspect it may have anger
Feral cats and kittens are not usually vaccinated and there is a slight risk that they can spread the deadly rabies virus. Although quite unusual, it is still more common in outdoor and unvaccinated cats, including kittens. Symptoms of rabies can vary and occur months after the cat has been exposed to the virus.
- The classic signs of anger are those typical of a sick cat (lethargy, inappetence, weakness) and / or changes in behavior (aggression, agitation, disorientation, paralysis, convulsions).
- If you come across a feral cat exhibiting these symptoms, call the ASL veterinary center and don't try to pick him up.
Part 2 of 5: Let the Cat Get Used to Your Presence
Step 1. Get used to your voice
If you think you can tame him, the next step is to let him hear your voice, so that he gets to know you better; sit next to him and start talking in a quiet tone of voice.
Step 2. Give him some kibble or canned food
While you continue to talk to him, offer him some food to munch on; try this technique for about three days, but in the meantime don't get any closer.
After three days, check that his body language is positive and that he begins to get comfortable with you. If he is content, he puts his ears forward, keeps his tail raised and he can even arch his back, keep his hair flat on his body, and can even purr
Step 3. Try to get close with food
Take a spoonful of food or canned tuna and offer it to him when he approaches. Call the cat by name or simply say: "Kitty"; if he responds by hissing, it means he is still scared and needs more time before he feels comfortable in your presence. Don't be in a hurry and give him time to get used to eating kibble near you.
Step 4. Pay attention to signs of aggression
If he seems belligerent to you, for example he jumps or growls, it means that you have to wait a little longer before he trusts you; you should also re-evaluate whether it is appropriate to call the ASL veterinary center.
Step 5. Use products that contain pheromones
If you want your cat to feel more comfortable, you need to take advantage of these substances, which act like natural pheromones and whose smell calms cats. You can find them on the market in spray format to be spread in the environments frequented by the cat; However, keep in mind that the sound of the spray can frighten or agitate him.
There are also wet wipes with which to rub the environment; alternatively, you can try the diffuser to activate if the cat is indoors
Step 6. Caress it with a spoon
Get a wooden spoon with a long handle or a spatula and wrap it in a soft cloth; for example wool works well. Slowly put a spoonful of food close enough to you so that you can touch the cat without frightening it; while he is eating, approach him carefully and start stroking him with the wooden spoon. It will take several attempts and a few days for the cat to feel comfortable during this operation.
If he runs away, don't chase him, but wait for another chance to try this method again
Part 3 of 5: Making Contact with the Cat
Step 1. Put on protective clothing
Until you have a chance to take your cat to the vet, it is best to handle it by taking precautions. Wear thick gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and long pants to minimize the risk of scratches or bites.
Step 2. Caress it with one hand
After using the spoon method for a while, you can try slipping your hand under the cutlery and stroking the cat, but only on the shoulders and head.
Do not touch it anywhere in the abdominal region; if the cat feels threatened, it can take a very defensive attitude. Remember that you can only touch his belly when he has full confidence in you
Step 3. Try to pick him up
Use a towel or blanket and grab it; you can only proceed in this way after you have already stroked him several times and at a time when he seems calm and relaxed.
- It may take a long time to do this and it all depends on the cat; some specimens never manage to be domesticated to the point of being able to pick them up.
- If it squirms when you pick it up, let it go, as it could scratch or bite you, plus you could risk making all the hard work done so far in vain.
Part 4 of 5: Taking the Cat to the Vet
Step 1. Get your cat used to traveling in the carrier
You have to put him in a cage to be able to take him to the vet and have him undergo a complete medical examination, which is very important at this stage; however, you must give him time to get used to the carrier.
- Leave the container open indoors so your cat can explore it freely.
- Try placing a bowl of food in front of the entrance; in doing so, they are more likely to approach and examine the cage.
- Move the food inside the carrier to invite the cat to enter.
Step 2. Take him to the vet
When you finally manage to pick up the cat, you need to take him to the doctor as soon as possible for a complete check-up; the vet checks his health, gives him vaccines and all other necessary treatments.
Get him vaccinated to protect him from various diseases, such as feline leukemia and others; ask your vet what vaccines are recommended
Step 3. Ask your doctor about flea and worm treatments
Since the cat has probably always lived outdoors, it is necessary that it undergoes the right treatments to protect it from these parasites. The veterinarian may decide to treat him directly in the clinic or he can recommend products to administer to him at home.
Step 4. Have him spayed or neutered
One of the best ways to take care of your cat is to spay it (if it is female) or neuter it (if it is male), to prevent new stray cats from being born. The vet cuts off the tip of one ear; it is a completely painless procedure that is performed when the cat is under anesthesia. This is the sign that distinguishes neutered or sterilized specimens.
Part 5 of 5: Socializing a Wild Pup
Step 1. Try to tame it when it is four to eight weeks old
When still in the weaning phase, it responds well to attempted domestication; at this stage it begins to become independent of its mother. Once he has socialized with people, it is possible to adopt him.
Step 2. Give him a place where he feels safe
When not actively engaged in the socialization process, make sure the puppy has a small, quiet room in which he can retreat and relax; this could be a bathroom or a guest bedroom.
Leave a light on all night so the room is never completely dark
Step 3. Choose a suitable place
It is worth increasing his contact with people by working on the socialization process in an area very frequented by humans; it could be a space in the yard where there are people working or playing or you can choose an area inside the house.
Step 4. Get on the same level as the cat
When you approach him, you don't have to stand up showing all your grandeur, but sit on the floor trying to be at the same height as him.
Step 5. Give him some wet food
As long as your cat is healthy, you can use food to socialize. in this way, you manage to attract him to you because he is hungry and wants to eat the foods you have. Sit next to him while he eats.
- You can also try placing a saucer of food on your lap to draw it even closer to you.
- Put the food away when you are not around so that the cat associates meal time with your presence.
Step 6. Let the puppy lick the food off your fingers
Once he gets used to having you around while he eats, offer him some tasty treats straight from his hand; try some canned or weaning puppy food (e.g. a small piece of beef or chicken flavored puppy food).
Your cat may try to ingest the food completely rather than licking it from her fingers, as this is her natural way of eating. it may therefore gently bite your fingers a little
Step 7. Start stroking it
When he is hungry and he is eating greedily, try to touch him; in the beginning, stick to the head and shoulders.
If it runs away, it starts the taming process over from the previous stage and stays at this stage for a longer period of time
Step 8. Try to stroke it without the attractiveness of food
When the kitten has got used to your presence and your touch, you can try to eliminate the edible stimulus; in this way, you check if the animal likes to be stroked even when you do not offer it to eat. Try touching it after it has eaten and it feels full.
Step 9. Slowly expose it to other people
If you are taming the animal for adoption, you need to make sure it is used to other individuals besides you.
Start by allowing one person at a time to spend a few moments with the kitten; these people should try to feed them first with a saucer and then with their finger, so that the cat gets used to their voices, smells and actions
Advice
- Don't touch his belly, tail and paws until the cat realizes you don't want to hurt him; these are sensitive points and the animal may react by biting or scratching.
- Proceed slowly; if you try to force the cat beyond its "comfort zone", you may be forced to slow down the domestication work considerably.
Warnings
- If the cat is behaving aggressively, back off for a while.
- The only people who should try to handle feral cats are those trained for this job.
- If you are bitten by a cat (wild or domestic), see a doctor; check the scratches carefully to make sure they don't get infected.
