When you start riding it can be very exciting, but also nerve-wracking. Read this article to learn everything you need to know.
Steps
Step 1. Get riding lessons from a qualified instructor
Start by taking care of the barn in a good quality stable, if there is one nearby, to familiarize yourself with the horses and get used to being close to them. In many stables they are happy to accept volunteers. In return they may let you ride their horses, and you may begin to become familiar with their temperament and understand their body language.
Step 2. Follow the instructions of the instructor, and learn everything there is to know about horse riding, from wearing the harness to the horse, to cleaning it and storing it when the ride is over
Step 3. Learn to take care of the horse
It is important both to forge a bond with the horse, if you are lucky enough to always be able to ride the same horse, and to be able to observe it in search of problems or injuries before and after the ride.
Step 4. Give the horse food and drink if you have the opportunity, once again to create a strong bond with the animal, earn its trust and learn to trust it
Many people are surprised when they realize they are close to, and in close contact with, a horse, no matter how big and powerful they really are.
Step 5. Learn the steps required for a beginner in horseback riding
Horseback riding is much more than "riding" the horse and galloping towards the sunset. Here is a list of things to prepare for a ride:
- Take your harness out of the saddlery, check it to see if it is clean and in good condition, with no holes or tears in the leather. Put it down, preferably on a railing, saddle rack, or banquet. Make sure it doesn't bother other riders.
- Reach the horse or call him, and put the halter on him. It is a leather or nylon harness that is placed on the horse's head, to be fastened tight enough so that it does not slip, but not too much, or you could make the horse uncomfortable. Make sure it is completely on the horse's head. Many horse runaways could have been avoided by simply making sure the halter was mounted well.
Step 6. Lead the horse into the barn and attach the lead wires to the metal ring on the halter near the horse's mouth
If there are two loops, the lead leads should be attached to the two loops on the sides of the horse's mouth.
- Use the curry comb, the brusque, and the brush with soft bristles for the body in that order. The curry comb should be used on the horse's neck, body and lower legs, the same is true for the brusca. The brush with soft bristles is the only one that should be used for the body up to the hooves. Do not brush the horse's muzzle, use a towel or brush glove for this area. Lift the horse's hooves and use the foot cleaner to remove dirt and mud. Lift them to the side, never stand directly behind or in front of the horse's legs, for safety reasons.
- Standing on the left side of the horse, spread the saddle blanket over the horse's back, with the front in the line of the front shoulders. Do this without making any sudden movements, otherwise the horse may run wild.
- Lift the saddle onto the horse's back, letting the stirrups and the strap (the leather part or another type of shoulder strap that passes under the horse's belly to secure the saddle) dangle on the other side. Center the saddle on the horse, and check that the blanket is well distributed under the saddle, leaving an edge of a couple of centimeters. The blanket will prevent the saddle from sliding and at the same time rubbing on the horse's back causing him discomfort. If the strap is not yet attached, attach it to the saddle on the horse's right side. If it is elastic on one side only, this side does not yet have to be fixed to the saddle. Make sure the side in contact with the horse is smooth. Often, one side of the strap has leather flaps sewn to hold the buckles in place, while the other is smooth. These buckles must not be put on the contrary, they could cause discomfort to the horse. Also, many saddles have three leather lugs to attach the strap to, use the two outer leather lugs, making sure the middle one passes between the strap and does not form knots or curls.
- Pull the strap under the horse and thread the lugs on the saddle through the strap buckles on the left side of the horse. Make sure it doesn't curl.
- To tighten the strap, pass the leather flap on the saddle through the strap buckle, and pull the end of the leather flap, securing it when the strap is tight. Make sure the strap is tight, and if it only has one elastic part, that part needs to be tightened at the end.
Step 7. Harness the horse using the non-dominant hand and use the dominant hand to place the bit in the mouth
Secure all straps. The capezzone (the strap that passes over the horse's muzzle) must be tight enough to be able to pass a finger between it and the horse. The noseband riser, which passes close to where the horse's head joins the neck, should be tight enough to stay in place without over-tightening. It should be relatively slow, enough to get a few fingers through.
- Bring the horse close to the ladder to mount if you want. Check that the strap is tight, the saddle should not slip too much when you try to move it. At this point you need to mount the horse from the left.
- Grab the reins with your left hand, then hold on to the withers, mane or pommel of the saddle with your left hand (do not pull the horse upwards!), And the back of the saddle with your right hand. Place your left foot on the stirrup, pull yourself up and pass your left leg over the horse's hind legs. Be careful not to kick the horse's rump as you slide your leg over its hind legs, or it may start to move. It could move anyway. It is best to have someone hold your horse while you are riding.
- Leave the stirrup, lean forward in the semi-standard position just above the saddle, and check if it's tight. If it has a tendency to slip, or doesn't feel tight, dismount (still on the left side) and reassure it.
- Pull the reins upwards, and keep them both at the same height while keeping them in the center of the horse's neck. The reins are a real steering of the horse. To make it turn left, pull the reins to the left, so that the bit presses on the horse's mouth, so that by reflex it moves in a certain direction.
- Another style of holding the reins requires that the reins are held in two hands, one is firm, while the other gives a slight backward pressure, forcing the horse to avoid it and then turning accordingly. The left hand is pulled back while the right remains stationary, in this way the horse turns to the left. It is important that the inactive hand remains stationary and does not move. If the left hand is pulled back while the right hand is brought forward, the horse may simply swing its head as it continues to walk straight.
- Above all, listen to the teacher's instructions, since the techniques may vary depending on who rides the horse and the methods of the trainer for a particular horse.
- Push the horse forward by lightly squeezing the calves on the sides of the horse. Most horses also respond to verbal commands, normally giddap! or go ahead and oha! to stop.
Step 8. Ride in an open area, as a beginner, stay away from fences, low branches of trees and steep stairways
Standing on the back of a horse requires balance and concentration, and it becomes much easier and more natural with practice. Be careful to keep the horse in check, and watch out for anything that might scare or freak it out.
Step 9. Consider all the costs and responsibilities associated with owning a horse before buying one
Horses are living creatures, they need to be fed, quenched and cared for every day, and they need good grazing land and a stable stable to protect themselves from adverse weather conditions. In addition, horses require regular veterinary visits, and maintenance by qualified people who shorten the hooves and retrieve them when necessary.
Step 10. When you think you are prepared and ready enough, you can buy a horse
If your parents don't want to buy you a horse, you can always rent one or get one on loan for use in the riding stable you frequent, in a pony club or by a friend who can no longer ride because of study, work or of an injury. Taking it on loan for use is often cheaper because you can agree with the owner who has to pay what, and often the owner pays the veterinarian and the first pair of clogs. The rest is up to the new family. It is important for a veterinarian to check the horse for any health problems before purchase, to avoid being misled by the seller.
Step 11. When looking at the horse or pony you intend to buy, bring an experienced friend, or get help from your instructor, trainer or trainer
Two or three opinions are always better than one. An instructor or trainer can help you select the right horse for your riding style, skill and strength. Here's what you should look for in a horse:
- Conformation: The horse should be healthy and well proportioned, not too big in the front nor in the back, it must appear easy to handle.
- Health: the horse must have you lift all the hooves, so that you can check for any bruises of the sole (they reabsorb spontaneously) and deformity of the legs. Check the neck, a stiff neck indicates the horse and pony are strong, and difficult for a beginner to maneuver.
- Age: this is very important. A novice horse and a novice rider do not get along. A suitable age for a beginner rider is 10-12 years, in this way the rider can grow as the horse reaches its peak, the horse will have been trained and will be ready to get carried away.
- Height: height is a debated factor, it can be important but also not at all. Although a horse should have a decent height, if a rider feels comfortable on a 1 meter pony, he should ride it until he feels comfortable with a taller pony, and then with a horse. If you try to overdo it, you may run into difficulties. The ideal horse height for a beginner rider is 1.4-1.5 meters. This category is classified as "Galloway". This height is used for various purposes and is very difficult to overcome. A pony in general is a common horse under 1.45 meters, while a draft horse exceeds 1.5 meters.
- Temperament: this is one of the most important details when choosing a horse. The horse may be calm and happy to see you. It should have a kind eye, which means that you shouldn't see a lot of white (the sclera, the white part that is also in the human eye). Appaloosa horses have a very evident sclera, but if the eye appears impetuous, then the horse is nervous and its behavior could be just as aggressive.
- Gender: this is also a debated topic. Some argue that mares are usually better than horses while others argue otherwise. The question has been open for decades. It depends on the choice and the situation. Women have their periods every 28 days, and during this time they are moody. Males do not have this problem and are usually more docile and relaxed, although you can find some that are a mixture of the two. It also depends on your child or you. A lot of little girls say "I want a mare because girls are better", while little boys say obviously that "horses are the best". In many cases, boys seem to get along better with mares and girls with horses. But it's up to you.
Step 12. Get the necessary equipment:
- Saddle and blanket. The saddle helps many riders, young and old, to stay on the horse, it serves to provide comfort for those who ride long distances. There are many styles and varieties, and the size depends on many factors. When buying a saddle, whether new or second-hand, don't look for the cheapest or the most expensive. Obviously, you get what you pay for, but very often a medium cost one is ideal and can last for over 12 years, depending on how it is kept. When choosing a size, make sure you have the height and breed of the horse, along with the conformation and size (whether it is big or thin). A very young rider usually mounts well on a 10-inch saddle, but some saddles are made for very wide ponies and others are made for slim, elegant horses. The variety and style of the saddle depends on the riding style and purpose. Usually the Western saddle is used only for Western riding, while the jump saddle is used only for show jumping. The best types are general or all-purpose ones. They have a set that allows the boy to compete in dressage, normal riding, show jumping and endurance. The saddle blanket should be large enough to be covered by the saddle and leave out a 2 or 4 centimeter border. It helps protect the saddle and prevents it from scratching the horse.
- The headboard. The bridle provides control over the horse. In particular, the bit allows you to control the horse, while the reins allow you to turn. Since this is only partially true, your instructor will help you choose the best one. Among the best headboards are the Cavesson and the Hanovarian. The Cavesson has a nasal band that prevents the horse from opening its mouth, while the Hanovarian does not. Although they are very similar, it depends a lot on the animal / rider combination. The bit and bridle must be suitable for the horse, and you will need to try a few to figure out which combination is best, as each horse is unique and is sensitive to minimal changes in the bridle. Many headboards nowadays are equipped with Cavesson to prevent the horse from opening its mouth, and may have one or two bites, depending on the skill and preference of the rider, and of the horse. You should get help from a trainer or instructor, as the wrong choice of bit and bridle can undermine control over the horse and make the ride dangerous.
- Horse care kit. Brushing a horse promotes blood circulation, and makes it appear clean and shiny. You should always take care of the horse before and after the ride, first to remove dust and grime that may make the horse react as if it is in pain and then to remove sweat stains which otherwise become difficult to remove later. A horse grooming kit should have basic: a massage curry comb (used to remove dirt and excess hair), a horse grooming brush (a coarse bristle brush to remove mud and stubborn stains), a polishing brush (a soft bristle brush used to polish and brush the muzzle and delicate parts), a foot cleaner (to remove mud and stones from the hooves), a comb for tail and mane, a sponge (to clean the nose and eyes of the horse, and remove sweat stains after riding. Many kits do not include the horsehair brush, which is very useful for brushing tail and mane. You can find it in any shop, it is identical to a brush for beings It is also useful, but not necessary, to have a towel to wipe away sweat after a ride (one for the horse and one for the rider), and to have a brush glove (a rubber or plastic glove with small bumps, idea le to brush the more delicate areas, such as the muzzle).
- Riding equipment. You should wear a helmet made especially for horse riding. Bike helmets are not enough, riding helmets cover a larger area of the head and are specially made to protect against falls from a horse. The boots must have flat soles, preferably pointed, and must have a heel, all to facilitate removal from the stirrup if something goes wrong. The material, the choice of zip or laces, and the height often depend on the preference of the rider or the discipline in which he competes. These two components are extremely necessary for safety reasons, while the other items are for convenience only. Trousers made especially for riding are often the best choice, they give flexibility and elasticity suitable for riding, although any type of long, good quality trousers are fine, as long as they allow excellent mobility. A t-shirt should be used, possibly with long sleeves or something like that to avoid sunburn when riding outdoors. Gloves are optional, because some suffer from irritation from the use of the reins, while others prefer to feel the grip.
Step 13. Learn the art of horse riding
While it sounds easy (and it is, after a lot of practice) it takes a lot of effort, and while some people are naturally inclined, others aren't and have to work hard to get results. In any case it is always advisable to have an instructor to help you until your skills have improved.
Advice
- Don't do anything in a hurry, you may lose confidence or forget something important.
- Don't approach the horse from behind. If frightened, the horse can kick, injuring himself and others.
- Don't think you know everything. Even the Olympic jockeys go to class! Riders always improve their ride and always need support.
- If you suddenly decide you want to go horseback riding, you shouldn't buy a horse. Do your research and take a few lessons. They are living beings and you cannot decide to own one as a hobby and then abandon it when you get bored.
- Make sure you get what you paid for. An instructor who doesn't teach… is a waste of money.
- Always remember, horses are wild and unpredictable animals. They could kill with a single kick, so you have to be VERY careful when you are near them. Even the cutest pony could harm you.
- Keeping a horse is extremely expensive, make sure you know what you're getting into. If you intend to keep it with you you must have a place of at least one hectare, well fenced (WITHOUT BARBED WIRE!). You must also have a fairly large shelter, the harness costs around 1000 euros, the feed for a year a few more hundred and the horse itself can cost up to two thousand euros. You will have to wake up at six in the morning to feed him, then again for lunch and in the evening for dinner … there is a lot of work to do with a horse.
Warnings
- Never run to a horse, no matter how calm it is.
- Horses may run wild easily and unpredictably.
- Don't stand in front of a horse (and one of their blind spots).
- Always wear boots and a helmet, so the heel can slip off the stirrup and prevent you from getting stuck.
- Never stand behind a horse.
- Horse riding is dangerous and involves many risks.
