Avocado, a soft, creamy, and nutrient-rich fruit essential for dishes like guacamole, can be grown from the pit left over after eating the fruit. Although avocado trees grown from seed take some time to produce fruit (sometimes up to 7-15 years), growing an avocado tree is a fun and rewarding project that leaves you with a truly gorgeous tree in the meantime. Once grown, you can wait for the fruits to start growing or speed up the process by grafting or by sprouting productive branches on the tree. Whichever method you choose, learn how to grow your own avocado tree from scratch starting with step 1!
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Choosing the Optimal Growth Conditions
Step 1. Find a warm place for growing with partial sunlight
Being a subtropical plant, avocado loves the sun. Native to Central America, Mexico, and the West Indies, avocado developed to thrive in warm, humid environments. Even though it was bred to grow in far-flung places like California, it always requires good sunlight exposure to thrive. However, paradoxically, young avocado plants can be damaged by excessive direct exposure (especially before they have had time to develop large leaves). Because of this, if you are growing an avocado plant from a single seed, choose a location that has good sun exposure during the day, but is not constantly in direct sunlight.
Window sills exposed to the sun are great places to grow avocados. In addition to ensuring that it only receives sunlight during part of the day, interior window sills allow you to carefully control the temperature and humidity the plant is exposed to
Step 2. Avoid cold, wind and frost
Most avocado plants don't grow well in bad weather. Snow, cold winds, and rapid changes in temperature, which can be harmful to even the hardiest plants, can even cause avocado plants to die. If you live in a tropical or subtropical climate area with fairly mild winters, you might get away with keeping the plant outside all year round. However, if you live in an area where the winter temperatures are likely to drop below freezing, you need to be prepared to move the plant indoors during the winter to protect it from the elements.
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Different avocado varieties have different tolerances to cold temperatures. In general, the common avocado varieties listed below will receive significant freezing damage at the temperatures indicated:
- West Indians: -2.2-1.7 ° C.
- Guatemalans: -2.8-1.7 ° C.
- Hass: -3.9 -1.7 ° C.
- Mexicans: -6, 1 -2, 8 ° C.
Step 3. Use rich soil with good drainage
Like many other common garden plants, avocado grows best in rich, gravel soil. These types of soils provide a large nutrient content to help the plant grow strong, reduce the risk of over-watering, and allow for good aeration. For best results, try to have a supply of this type of soil (such as one rich in humus and organic matter) ready to use as an impregnation medium by the time your avocado's roots and stem are well. defined.
To be clear, you don't necessarily need to have potting soil ready at the start of the growing process, as avocado seed cultivation begins in water before it is transferred to the soil
Step 4. Use a fairly low pH soil
Like many other common garden plants, avocado grows best in soils that have a low pH (in other words, in acidic rather than alkaline or basic soils). For best results, try to plant the avocado in soil with a pH of 5-7. At higher pH levels, the avocado plant's ability to absorb vital nutrients such as iron and zinc can be significantly reduced, hampering growth.
If your soil pH is too high, consider using a pH-lowering technique, such as adding organic matter or introducing alkaline-resistant plants to your garden. You can also get good results with a soil additive such as aluminum or sulfur sulfate
Part 2 of 3: Starting Avocado Growing
Starting from the Seed
Step 1. Remove and wash the seed
Getting the seed from a ripe avocado is easy. Use a knife to cut the avocado in half lengthwise on both sides, then grab and turn the fruit to separate the halves. Extract the seed from the half it is attached to. Finally, wash away any excess avocado residue attached to the seed until it's perfectly clean and smooth. Generally, the riper the avocado, the more likely the seed is to germinate; therefore choose avocados with firm or soft pulp, never with hard pulp because the seed of an unripe fruit can have long germination times and, at times, may not germinate at all.
Don't throw away the avocado pulp; try making guacamole sauce, spread it on a piece of toast, or eat it as well as a delicious nutritious snack
Step 2. Suspend the seed in water
Avocado seeds shouldn't be planted directly in the ground; instead, they should be placed in water until the roots and stem are developed enough to support the plant. An easy way to suspend the seed in water is to insert three toothpicks into the sides of the seed so that it is placed on the edge of a large cup or bowl. Don't worry, it doesn't hurt the plant. Fill the cup or bowl with water until the bottom of the seed is submerged.
Make sure the seed is placed in the water with the top facing up. The top should always be slightly rounded or pointed (like the top of an egg), while the bottom, which is in water, should be slightly flatter and may have an uneven coloration than the rest of the seed
Step 3. Place it near a sunny window and fill with water as needed
Next, place the seed and its water-filled container in a spot where it will receive occasional (but rarely direct) sunlight, such as a windowsill that only gets a few hours of sunshine a day. Monitor the plant, from time to time, and add fresh water whenever the level drops below the bottom of the seed. Within a few weeks and up to a month and a half, you should notice the roots starting to emerge from the bottom of the seed and a small stem from the top.
The initial inactivity phase can last from about 2 to 6 weeks. It may seem like nothing is happening, but be patient - eventually you will see that the roots and stem of the plant begin to emerge
Step 4. When the stem is about 6 cm long, cut it off
As the roots and stem begin to grow, keep monitoring progress and change the water as needed. When the stem reaches a height of about 6 cm, prune back to about 3 cm in height. Within a few weeks this should lead to the development of new roots, and cause the stem to grow into a stronger, wider tree.
Step 5. Plant your avocado seed
A few weeks after its first pruning, when the plant's roots are thick and developed, and its stem has new leaves, you can finally transfer it to a pot. Remove the toothpicks and place the roots down in a soil rich in organic matter, with good drainage. For best results, use a pot that is approximately 25-30cm in diameter. Smaller pots can cause root entanglement and inhibit growth if the plant is not moved to a new one.
Don't bury the seed completely in the ground: cover the roots, but leave the top half exposed
Step 6. Ensure the plant has good exposure to sunlight and frequent watering
As soon as you pour the avocado plant, water it abundantly, wetting the soil gently but thoroughly. Going forward, you will need to water just enough to keep the soil slightly moist, never saturating the soil or making it muddy. Place the avocado in a place where it will receive a lot of sunlight, but not in constant direct sunlight during the day, especially if you live in a very hot climate.
Step 7. Get the plant used to the outside conditions gradually if you intend to move it outside
Start by placing the pot in a spot where it can receive indirect sunlight for most of the day. Then gradually move it to areas where the light is gradually more intense. Eventually it will be ready to receive constant direct sunlight.
Step 8. Detach the leaves after every 6 inches of growth
Once the plant has been transplanted, continue with your regimen of frequent watering and strong sunlight as it begins to grow. Periodically, monitor its progress with a ruler or a centimeter: when the stem of the plant reaches a height of about 30 cm, it detaches the new growing leaves. As the plant continues to grow, peel off the new, taller leaf clusters each time it grows another 6 inches (15 cm).
This encourages the plant to grow new shoots, leading to a healthier, busier tree in the long run. Don't worry about damaging the plant - the avocado is strong enough to bounce back from this routine pruning without any hassle
Grafting
Step 1. Grow the seedling to a height of 60-90cm
As stated above, growing an avocado tree from one seed does not necessarily mean that you will be able to get fruit in any given amount of time. Some avocado trees may take a few years to start producing fruit, while others may take much longer or may never even bear good fruit. To speed up this process and ensure your tree produces great fruit, use the technique used by professional growers: grafting. To graft you will need an avocado tree that is already producing good fruit and an avocado seedling that is at least 60-75 centimeters tall.
If you can, try to find a "producer" tree that is hardy and disease-free to produce good fruit. A successful graft physically links the two plants together, so you'll need to use the healthiest plants possible to avoid problems along the way
Step 2. Start in the spring
Joining the two plants as they grow and before the weather gets drier is the best way to graft them. Start in spring and expect it to take at least four weeks.
Step 3. Make a T-shaped cut in the seedling
With a sharp knife, make a T-shaped cut on the stem of the plant about 20-30cm above the ground. Cut horizontally about one third of the thickness of the stem, then twist the knife and cut about 2-3 cm along the stem towards the ground. Use the knife to peel the bark from the stem.
Obviously, avoid cutting too deep into the barrel. Your goal is to "open" the bark along the side, so that you can insert a new branch, and not damage the seedling
Step 4. Pick a bud from a "producer" tree
Next, find a healthy looking bud on the tree that produces the fruit you selected. Remove it from the tree by making a diagonal cut that starts about 1 cm below the bud and ends about 2-3 cm below it. If the bud is in the center of a branch or twig section, rather than at the tip, make a cut an inch above the bud to remove it.
Step 5. Join the bud to the seedling
Then, bring the bud you removed from the "producer" tree into the T-shaped cut on the seedling. The green part under the bark of each plant must be in contact; if this is not done, grafting may fail. Once the bud is placed in the cut slot of the seedling, secure it in place with elastic bands or rubber bands (available at garden stores).
Step 6. Wait for the gem to take root
If your grafting work is successful, the bud and seedling should finally heal together, forming a single plant. In spring this can happen in a month or less, but in slower growing months it may take up to 2 months. Once the plant is completely healed, you can remove the rubber bands. If you want, you can also carefully trim the stem of the original plant an inch or two above the new branch to make it the new "main" branch.
Once the branch you introduced into the plant grows to a sufficient size, it should begin producing high-quality fruit, just as it would on the old tree. Using this technique, professional growers are able to maintain consistent results on all of their avocado trees
Part 3 of 3: Caring for an Avocado Plant
Step 1. Water frequently, but don't overdo it
Compared to other plants in your garden, avocado ones can require a lot of water. However, it is important to remember that excess water is a potential problem for almost all plants, including avocados. Try to avoid watering so frequently or so much that the tree's soil becomes liquid or muddy. Use a soil with good drainage (one that is rich in organics is usually a good choice). If your tree is potted, make sure the bottom contains drainage holes to allow water to drain out. Follow these simple tips, and your plant will be free from the danger of over-watering.
If the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and you have watered frequently, this can be a sign of over-watering. Stop watering immediately and only start again when the soil is dry
Step 2. Fertilize only occasionally
You may not even need fertilizer to grow a strong and healthy avocado tree. However, when used sensibly, fertilizers can greatly increase the growth of a young plant. Once the tree is well defined, add a balanced citrus fertilizer to the earth during the growing season, according to the instructions that come with the fertilizer. Don't overdo it: When it comes to commercial fertilizer, it's usually best not to overdo it. Always water after fertilization to ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil and delivered directly to the plant's roots.
Like many plants, avocados generally should not be fertilized when very young, as they can be very sensitive to the "burn" that can result from overuse of fertilizers. Try to wait at least a year before fertilizing
Step 3. Recognize the signs of a salt buildup
Compared to other plants, avocado is particularly vulnerable to the accumulation of salt in the earth. Avocado plants that suffer from high levels of salts may have slightly wilted leaves with "burn", brown tips where excess salt builds up. To lower the salinity of the soil, change the way you irrigate. Water abundantly at least once a month, soaking to the ground. The strong flow of water carries the accumulated salts deep into the soil, under the roots, where they will be less harmful to the plant.
Step 4. Learn how to fight common avocado pests and diseases
Like any agricultural crop, avocado plants can suffer from a variety of pests and diseases that can threaten the quality of the plant's fruit or even endanger the entire plant. Knowing how to recognize and solve these problems is critical to maintaining a healthy and productive avocado tree. Here are just a few of the most common pests and diseases of avocado (for more information, see a source of botany).
- Tumors. "Rust", deep sores on the plant that can ooze gum. Cut the tumors from the affected branches. A canker on the tree trunk can kill the plant.
- Rotten roots. Usually caused by an excess of water. It causes yellowing leaves, wilting and eventual degradation, even when all other conditions for growth are met. Stop watering immediately and, if severe, dig out the roots to expose them to air. Sometimes it is fatal to the plant.
- Withering and rusting. Dead spots on the tree. Fruits and leaves with these spots wither and die. Immediately remove the affected areas from the tree and wash the tools used to do so, before using them again.
- Parasites. They cause yellow spots on the leaves that dry out quickly. Damaged leaves can die and fall off the branch. Use a commercial pesticide or a natural insecticide such as pyrethrin.
- Woodworms. They puncture the tree, making small holes that can cause sap to ooze. Preventive care is best: Keeping trees healthy and well fed makes it harder for trees to be affected. If woodworms are present, remove and eliminate any affected branches to decrease their spread.
Advice
There are specific fertilizers available for avocado. Used correctly, these will almost always come in handy. Other fertilizers can also be useful, especially if the soil is not overall optimal for avocado growth. Since you will be eating what comes out of it, consider buying an organic fertilizer rather than a synthetic one
Warnings
- If the leaves turn brown and puckered at the tips, there is too much salt built up in the soil. Let the water flow freely into the jar and let it drain for a few minutes.
- While it is true that you can grow a tree from an avocado seed, remember the resulting tree will be very different from its parent's variety and can take 7-15 years to start producing fruit. The fruits of a tree grown from seed tend to have different flavor characteristics than their original variety.