The tiles protect the sloping roofs from the effects of rain, snow and hail while giving a pleasing 'crown' to the house. Having a solid layer of shingles on your roof is an important way of avoiding leaks and water damage. Doing this correctly will save you problems for 20-40 years. Placing shingles can be hard and painstaking work, but the reward of a nice, waterproof roof can be worth it. Read on for the first step of the instructions.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Part One: Getting started
Step 1. Know the building codes in your area regarding roofs
Many building codes regulate the number of tile layers a roof can have, as well as which tile materials are appropriate.
Coastal areas that are prone to high winds and hurricanes have different prerequisites for load and structural design than more central areas. If you live on the coast and want to redo the house, you need to take extra care to get the proper permits and ensure the safety of your project
Step 2. Obtain the necessary permissions
Check with local government agencies about the need for a building permit before roofing your home. Permits are issued by your city's Construction Department. Generally, you will be able to get immediate approval if you have:
- proof of ownership of the property
- permit application form (provided)
- a declaration of repair, stating that you are carrying out work to keep the roof compliant
- building plants
- view of the height
Step 3. Choose an appropriate type of shingle
Shingles come in many varieties. some of which are more appropriate for particular climates and roof types. Choose something suitable for your area, your home and the particular style of your project.
- The asphalt shingles they are the most common type of roofing. They are quite durable, they can last 20 to 30 years under the right conditions. Reinforced with fiberglass, asphalt shingles often also have small pieces of adhesive or tar adhering to the overlying shingles.
- The slate tiles they are the heaviest and most durable you can buy. Because they split easily, require a special saw to cut, and weigh about three times the weight of other types of shingles, using this type of shingle is only worthwhile if you are experienced in roof renovation and like challenges. Slate roofs are great if you want to create a unique, durable roof for your home, and are willing to put in the extra effort.
- The laminated tiles they resemble slate in appearance, but are actually multi-layered asphalt shingles. They are similar, but slightly thicker than asphalt shingles, so working on them would be almost the same. If you like the look of slate but want to make your job easier, consider this type of shingle.
- Wood tiles they are often hand-cut of cedar, spruce or pine. Common in the coastal regions of New England, wood shingles allow for expansion and an aged look that some really like. They need to be laid out slightly to accommodate the expanse, but these types of shingles last up to 30 years if installed correctly.
Step 4. Determine how many shingles you need for the job
The area that the shingles usually cover is defined in "squares", each about 9.29 sq m (100 sq ft).
To figure out the number of packages to buy, measure the length and width of each section of the roof and multiply them together to get the area. Add all the areas together, and then divide by 100 to get the number of 'squares' your roof consists of. Multiply this number by three and you will know how many packs of tiles to buy
Step 5. Measure the length of a tile by holding it against the roof
This will help you determine how the shingles will be arranged across the width of the roof. Most asphalt shingles measure 3 feet in length (91.4cm). If the width of your roof is not a multiple of the length of the shingle, you will need a partial piece at one end of each row.
The bottom row of tiles must slightly exceed the edge of the roof. For wooden shingles, you should cut the edges of the ones that go to the base, to get a straight edge and do the same
Method 2 of 3: Part Two: Prepare the Roof
Step 1. Take the right security measures
Many roofs are at a considerable height and require special pins to secure the situation. Scaffolding or support boards help secure the area on or around the roof to prevent tools and objects left from sliding down and hitting passers-by.
Place 2 x 10 studs about 3 feet higher than the roof edge. Make sure you wear a good pair of rubber soled boots to maintain maximum traction while working on the roof. Goggles and work gloves are equally useful
Step 2. Rent a garbage can
It may be helpful to rent a garbage can in which to throw away the old shingles. Usually, renting a bin in your area costs around € 150. If you keep it as close to home as possible, and cover air conditioners, porches, and other things you don't want to damage or soil, you'll save time cleaning up later. THE
Step 3. Begin removing the shingles starting with the tip furthest from the bin
Use a garden pitchfork or shovel specifically made for roofing to get under the shingles and peel them off faster, or you can do it by hand with a hammer. Pull off the nails, first loosening the panels on the corners and then the shingles, pushing them down towards the roof supports. Take frequent breaks to push them into the garbage can. Don't worry about removing all the nails right from the start, some will come off with the shingles, some will not.
- This is usually the most grueling and dirty part of the job, so make sure you plan enough time and elbow grease to finish it. Shingles are often heavy and muddy, so don't let too many pile up before you decide to throw them over the scaffolding and into the trash.
- Be extremely careful where you step and make sure you work with at least one other person. Consider investing in safety harnesses if you are on a particularly high roof.
Step 4. Remove metal seals around chimneys, vents, and corners in the roof
Some repairers reuse metal gaskets if they are in good condition, so you may want to be careful removing them. The seals on the inside corners are however damaged most of the times, so be judicious. Consider replacing them all anyway, and find yourself doing it. If a gasket is suspicious, throw it out and replace it with a new one.
Step 5. Clean the roof
Sweep the roof as much as possible, taking the time to remove any nails that didn't come off when removing the old shingles. Reattach any weak boards in the scaffold. Examine the scaffolding, looking for damaged or rotted boards, and make the right replacements.
Step 6. Install an ice and water barrier and roofing felt
This lower layer will serve as a temporary barrier against the elements. If you have gutters, you will want to cover all the gutter seals on the roof with the ice barrier. Pin it on top and each pair of feet with a stapler, to hold it up. Once an entire section is pinned along an outline, lift the bottom edge, peel off the protective film, and let it fall back in place. The ice barrier will snap into place immediately.
Unroll and pin about 30-lb. of roofing felt all along the roof. Use lots of pins (5/16 inches) to make the roofing felt safe enough to walk in and prevent it from being blown away. In this step, a compressed air stapler is very useful (about € 20)
Method 3 of 3: Part Three: Place the Shingles
Step 1. Place a first row at the base of the roof
Place the nails in each 3-section board about 1.8 cm from the cutouts, near where the surface meets the top of the tile. Also, place a nail 2 inches from each end of the tile, in line with the other two. In all, use 4 nails for each 3-section board.
- Nailing them in this way will ensure that the next row and the following ones penetrate and always keep the upper part of the previous one (so that there are 8 nails to hold each tile).
- If the nail or pin is fired too deeply, almost breaking through the tile, then the nails will soon come up and come off. Set the air compression and gun depth to the lowest.
Step 2. Spread the first row of tiles directly to cover the edge
Pull a horizontal chalk line along the edge to use as a guide and remove the plastic film behind the tiles in the package. Cut 6 inches from the width of the first tile to be nailed, and use the rest whole. Alternating them in this way will meet the ends of the first regular row of tiles positioned above the initial tiles. Depending on the type of shingles you buy there may be a special row of shingles for the edges, or a roll of material to cut the length of your roof. Alternatively, you can use an initial row of whole shingles by turning them so that the guides face up.
Step 3. Roll out the second row of shingles
Place the first tile of the second row back half a section, 6 inches (about 17 cm) from the first tile of the first row, so that the bottom of the tile just touches the top of the first section of the tile below. This half section needs to be cut where it protrudes from the roof.
Draw a vertical chalk line from the inside edge of the second row half tile to the top of the roof, and from the inside edge of the first row to the top of the roof. These chalk lines will serve as a guide for the subsequent odd and even lines, respectively. Keep working horizontally until you reach the top
Step 4. Place the tiles around the vents and chimneys as needed
Nail pieces of aluminum foil over any holes you run your finger through to protect the canopy over the holes from bends, bumps, cracks, and leaks.
- Exhaust pipes, fans and chimneys are surrounded with metal gaskets resting on the tar. The tiles are intersected with these gaskets, which are cemented and nailed under the upper tiles above a fan, but cemented and nailed above the tiles on each side and below the fan. Work on these seals so that the water runs down the roof but not under the interlace. For pipes and fans, run the two or three rows that meet the gasket under it, while the higher rows go over the gasket.
- For the chimney, intersect the gasket around the chimney with the rows of tiles. Cement a sheet of gasket over the top edge of the chimney flange before placing the shingles on top and cement another sheet of gasket to the bottom half. Then cover the bottom on each cemented side that tucks under the top with asphalt or roofing cement.
Step 5. Consider "stacking" the tiles until you reach the top
The clustering technique uses two sizes of the first tile in each row, the regular three-section pieces and the shortened pieces at each end, working vertically rather than horizontally. It goes much faster and allows you to keep tools by your side as you work rather than having to put them away every time.
Piling shingles can sometimes also lead to a situation called a "curled pattern", where the shingles curl in the wind, where the massed columns meet, due to the need to raise the edge of a shingle to place the next, and raise it enough to nail the next one under each overlapping tile. These crimping could result in water seepage under the shingles, leaking where the stacked columns meet - and thus piling them could void any manufacturer's warranty of some brands of water-proof, long-lasting shingles
Step 6. Join the corners with an angled layer to plug the sides together
You can either use specially angled shingles, or cut a number of shingles into equal pieces at three guides, and fold each one so that it matches the corner of the roof, and nail them in place. You will need longer nails for this, as you will need to nail through multiple layers of shingles.
Advice
- Placing the tiles is easier and faster if you work with one or more helpers.
- Avoid cutting or walking on tar and shingles during the hottest hours of the day or on the hottest days, because heat can partially melt the roofing felt and the asphalt floor of the shingles, making them soft and easy to damage by pulling, crushing or tearing.
- If a nail causes a crack or hole in the wooden shed, it can rise and rise over time, through the shingle, and will protrude into a hole more than half an inch, causing the roof to leak.
- Remove the strip of "tear-off" plastic covering the glue strip behind each tile, placed there to prevent them from sticking together in the package. Yes, it should be removed - although you may occasionally find yourself dealing with strong winds of 90km / h and beyond (especially on the windward side of the roof). It's more work - but it's worth it because it cements the roof more, adhering better, the first time it gets hot and the fresh asphalt just melts.
