Has your cat stopped using the litter box? It is essential to understand the causes that lead him to do so, in order to correct this behavior. The underlying reason is often a source of stress, such as a change in the home environment; Sometimes, there may be health problems that lead him to suddenly stop using the litter box, especially if he is elderly.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: after a Move, a Small Change or a Negative Event
Step 1. Move the litter box to a suitable location
Some cats may stop using it after experiencing a frightening experience in the area it is in, such as a loud noise or the presence of some other pet that bothers them. They may also not like the new place you placed it or the move to another house. Make sure to keep her in a quiet space with little movement, where the cat can see people approaching; choose a room with at least two exits so that you don't feel cornered.
- Keep the litter box away from bowls of food and water; cats like to keep these two areas distinct.
- You can understand that the cat has had a negative experience with the litter box from the fact that it starts running quickly in and out of it or uses an adjacent area to fulfill its needs; if you notice this behavior, try moving it to a new room.
- Place at least one litter box on each floor of the house (if you live on multiple floors).
Step 2. Place toys near the litter box
Play with the cat in the same area where the litter box is. Leave some fun items (but not food) in the room, so that the animal can spend a pleasant time and create a positive association with the place.
You can also take the cat to the box to observe his behavior, but don't force him to enter it and don't reward him with a treat when he uses it; these tactics could be counterproductive and the cat may feel uncomfortable or frightened. Unlike dogs, cats have to choose their container for themselves, especially if they have used one before
Step 3. Keep it clean
If you see your little furry friend standing on the edge of the litter box or defecating in the immediate vicinity, it means that she is too dirty for him. Remove any lumps of dirt and put new sand on the surface at least once a day, preferably twice. Also rinse the entire litter box once a week with baking soda or an unscented soap.
- If you have chosen non-clumping sand, you need to change it completely every two days, to prevent bad smells from forming, which could ward off and discourage the cat.
- Do not clean the tray with perfumed products; do not even use a disinfectant, unless it is specific for litter boxes, as many of these contain chemicals that are toxic to cats.
Step 4. Replace the sand gradually
If you have bought a new one, you need to get your cat used to it slowly; mix some with the old one and progressively increase the percentage of the new one every time you change it. Cats generally have less difficulty getting used to unscented sand that has a similar texture to what they used to use previously.
- If the type of sand you have used so far is no longer available, buy two or three new types; put them in separate trays next to each other and let the cat choose the one he prefers.
- Try changing the depth of the sand layer, especially if it has a different texture, which the cat is not used to. Many cats prefer a shallow layer that is no more than 5cm thick; many times, long-haired specimens prefer a larger amount, so that they can burrow to the bottom of the tray.
Step 5. Troubleshoot the new containers
If your kitty hasn't reacted well to the recent litter box change, you can try making changes to make it more inviting:
- Some specimens prefer the covered models, while others the open ones; try adding or removing the top cover.
- Remove the plastic liners from the tray, as the cat's claws can get stuck.
- Most cats are well suited to self-cleaning models, but if your little friend doesn't use the new one, go back to using the regular litter box.
- If the new one is smaller than the old one, you will probably need to replace it with a larger model; the ideal is a large tray with low edges, some people use the plastic ones that are used to store the sweaters.
Step 6. Clean the traces of feces and urine with an enzymatic cleaner
When the pet is unable to use the tray, you must clean the area it has soiled with an enzymatic product specially formulated for cat urine (or with a mixture of water and enzymatic detergent powder with a concentration of 10 %); when finished, rinse with cold water. This product removes the smell of urine, which could otherwise attract the cat and entice him to use the same place as a "toilet" again.
For best results, lightly spray the area with denatured alcohol once it has dried from the water; scrub gently and let it air dry
Step 7. Make the areas you dirty less attractive
If your cat has gotten into the habit of relieving herself in certain spaces, block her access or find a temporary way to discourage her until she has learned good habits again:
- If you tend to use dark, hidden corners as your personal bathroom, install a bright light, even better if you activate it with movement;
- Make carpets and other areas uncomfortable by putting aluminum foil or double-sided tape;
- If your cat urinates on the curtains, lift them slightly out of his reach until he goes back to using the litter box.
- Cover the furniture you use as a "toilet" with plastic sheets or a shower curtain;
- Fill the bathtub and sinks with some water when you're not using them.
Step 8. Place litter boxes in problem areas
One way to solve the problem is to give in to your cat's preferences and place the trays in the spots they are using as personal bathrooms. Obviously, this is not the ideal solution if you have chosen the center of the living room carpet, but this method is worth considering if the cat has decided to soil other less visible areas of the house.
Another option is to place the food bowl right where it tends to get dirty; most cats do not like to go to the toilet and eat in the same area
Step 9. Use the cat's preferences to your advantage
If none of the changes described so far lead to any results, you can resort to more gradual changes. For example, if your cat prefers to urinate on the carpet, place a small piece of similar cloth in the litter box. If the cat accepts this solution, the next day add a small amount of sand on top of the piece of carpet; keep adding more and more sand and replace the fabric when it is too dirty, until the cat gets completely used to using the tub again.
- For this remedy to be effective, you may need to keep the cat in an area of the house without carpets or temporarily roll them up; Keep in mind, however, that confining him to a limited area could be counterproductive if he is stressed or bored.
- In the same way, if your little feline friend lives indoors and outdoors or if he is in any case used to generally doing his business outside, add some earth or sand (without fertilizers) to the tub; also in this case, the proportion between earth / sand and commercial litter gradually changes by adding small quantities of substrate to what the cat prefers to use instead.
Method 2 of 3: Handle Other Causes
Step 1. Sterilize or castrate your cat
This is not a necessary condition to get them used to using the litter box, but once sterilized they are less likely to start urinating outside the tray. Non-neutered males in particular tend to spray urine when they are stressed, if they don't get along with another male or when they are available to a female.
You must stop this behavior as soon as it occurs; if the cat maintains the habit for too long, it can persist even after surgery
Step 2. Reduce your cat's stress
Just like people, cats can also be stressed out due to changes in their environment or habits. The little feline may stop using the litter box when a person or other animal leaves the house or when there is a new family member. Some specimens also react badly when renovations are carried out in the home. Here are some tips to help him:
- Offer him a private space in which he can be alone, including hidden corners and high points where he can "perch";
- If he is used to going outside, let him go and come back whenever he wants;
- Let him get close to you and be calm and steady in your reactions. Some specimens can get stressed out because they don't have enough time to play and have fun, while others don't like being picked up or stroked when their owner so desires;
- If the cat's negative behavior continues, consult a veterinarian or animal behaviorist.
Step 3. React to splashes on vertical surfaces
If the cat rubs its butt on vertical surfaces, wags its tail and releases a spray of urine, it means that it is marking its territory. If you don't see it in action, check the surrounding area and see if there is a strong urine odor on surfaces slightly above its tail, accompanied with strips running along the baseboard or on the floor. Any cat can behave this way, but it is more common in uncastrated males. Here's how you should react if your kitty starts claiming territory like this:
- The tendency to mark the territory is often the response to stress or the presence of other cats; follow the advice described above to manage this situation.
- This habit can also be a reaction to the presence of a new neighbors cat, especially if the sprays of urine are concentrated on a door, window or ventilation duct. Try to keep it away from the garden or close the curtains so the cat can't see its "enemy".
- About 30% of the cats that are visited by the vet for this behavior have medical disorders; it is therefore advisable to submit the animal to a visit, especially if you cannot find a solution to the problem.
Step 4. Replace small litter boxes as your puppy grows
If you adopted a cat when it was a puppy, it may be necessary to provide it with larger tubs as it grows; it must be able to move and turn easily inside the container and must find a clean corner of sand if you have not already cleaned the dirt.
Cats don't like changes and it may take some time for them to adjust to the new litter box; if the problem persists, follow the instructions described so far in this article
Step 5. Trim the shaggy coat when the specimen has long hair
Some long-haired cats soil the fur around their buttocks when they defecate; as a result, they may feel pain or have an unpleasant experience that they tend to associate with using the litter box. If you find this happening, you need to carefully trim the tangled hair in this area of the body.
Step 6. Minimize damage when owner is away
Some cats react badly when their owner walks away and can urinate anywhere they smell, usually on the bed. If you need to leave the house, instruct the person who will be taking care of the cat to close the bedroom door and to put in additional trays, so that the cat can reach them without having to walk in front of the person himself.
If possible, assign someone the cat already knows or at least get them familiar with them before you leave
Step 7. Improve your cat's behavior by keeping more pets in the house
Marking territory with urine is a typical reaction to conflict with another cat or dog and can also occur if the two animals got along well in the past. For best results, make sure each of them has access to their own sources of food, water and their own "bathroom", without having to relate to each other:
- Keep a litter box for each individual, plus one; arrange them in separate spaces that have at least two exits, if possible;
- Provide each pet with a personal kennel and food bowl; put these items away from the litter boxes and away from each other;
- Provide each cat with many raised spots to "perch" and places to hide;
Step 8. Separate the animals if the bad behavior continues
If your cat persists in not wanting to use the litter box or continues to be aggressive towards other animals, you need to find more effective ways to separate them. This remedy is often necessary when introducing a new specimen into the home:
- Place cats in different rooms and close their doors, so that they cannot smell each other; then expose them to the relative smells by feeding them on both sides of the same door or by swapping rooms every day.
- After a few days, open the door; if they don't show bad reactions, let them get closer and get to know each other.
- If they behave aggressively, use the leash to keep them in the same room, but at a safe distance for short sessions. In these moments have them eat or play and gradually bring them closer each time more and more.
- When they calm down, try rubbing some of the liquid from the cans of tuna over their heads; this encourages relaxation and they should start licking each other's fur, potentially each other's too.
Method 3 of 3: Rule Out Health Problems
Step 1. Pay attention if your cat has difficulty urinating
If you find that he is straining when he has to pee or spends too much time trying to urinate without success, you need to take him to the vet right away. Men in particular can develop urinary problems when the urethra (the tube that goes from the bladder to the penis) becomes narrowed or blocked. Usually, only small amounts of urine can pass until the channel closes completely and the cat can no longer urinate at all. This is a very serious problem, which can even lead to death and immediate medical attention is needed; obstruction can also occur in the intestinal tract.
Some cats who have a urinary infection or urinary tract obstruction spend a lot of time trying to pee, lick their genitals, or complain in front of their owner
Step 2. Determine if the cat has intestinal problems
Kittens can suffer from faecal constipation, which can lead to a chronic condition that requires special nutrition and laxatives. Diarrhea is also not that rare and chronic diarrhea associated with inflammatory bowel disease can occur. All these ailments are unpleasant and the cat may begin to be afraid to face the litter box or not be able to use it in time to avoid "accidents".
Many cats with inflammatory bowel disease have only occasional symptoms with no obvious cause. Changes in appetite, lethargy, vomiting, or increased hairball production may be signs of intestinal discomfort
Step 3. Make the pan physically more accessible
If the animal is elderly or injured, it may not be able to fit comfortably into the litter box as it previously did. Do you notice that they are limping, need help jumping on their chair or bed, have episodes of leg tremors or feel like they are experiencing pain in their spine or tail? In such cases, you need to take him to the vet immediately. However, it might be more convenient to get him a litter box with lower edges or cut out a "door" to facilitate access; Also consider getting him a large tub so he can move around more comfortably when he's inside.
If he is overweight, he may not be able to stay comfortably in a litter box for too long; in this case, provide him with a larger one and put him on a diet. Check with your vet to find safe ways to get him to lose weight
Step 4. Talk to your doctor to rule out other possible diseases
Urinating outside the litter box is often the consequence of some feline disease, for example urinary tract infection, diabetes mellitus, chronic kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, inflammation of the kidneys with or without urinary stones and chronic inflammatory bowel disease (IBD).
- Observe the cat to be prepared to answer the vet's questions. For example, your cat may ask if your cat is urinating near the litter box or further away, how big the urine spot is, if it never tries to urinate inside the tray, if it makes sounds when urinating, if it has started urinating. drink more, if the pee appears quite light, normal or dark in color and how often the animal does it.
- Even if there are no medical problems, the vet may prescribe anti-anxiety drugs to prevent the cat from marking the territory with urine; Medicines do not necessarily solve the problem or are without risks, so you must discuss the advantages and disadvantages of this solution with your doctor.
Advice
- You may need to look for urine stains in places that are not noticeable to make sure you find them all; look under the carpet, on the insulating mat it rests on and on the floor below. You can use a Wood's lamp in dark areas, as it causes urine stains to become fluorescent.
- If you have several cats and you are not sure which of them is urinating outside the litter box, ask your vet to provide you with fluorescein for cats; it is a harmless dye that makes urine momentarily blue when exposed to black light. Alternatively, put the cats in separate rooms until you figure out which one has the problem.
- If you have a dog that bothers your cat when it's in the litter box or tries to rummage in the sand, block access to the litter tray by installing a paddock. raise the entrance just enough to allow the cat, but not the dog, to pass underneath.
Warnings
- Do not punish the cat for not using the litter box and do not rub its face in urine or feces; these techniques do not improve his behavior.
- Do not clean urine traces with ammonia-based cleaners; the urine itself contains ammonia and the smell can attract the cat to the same spot.
- Urine marking behavior is much more likely when there are many cats in a small space; according to some studies, it is practically unavoidable in homes with ten or more specimens.
- Cats that urine mark their territory when stressed often resume this behavior when faced with a new source of anxiety. If this happens, take your pet to the vet as soon as possible, to make it easier for you to find a long-term solution, before it becomes an ingrained habit.
