It's easy to feed fish once you know how. Just make sure the dry food you use is suitable for the species you own, as explained below. When you've found the right amount of nutrition to give, start supplementing your diet with insects, vegetables, or other nutritious foods depending on the type of fish you have.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Choose Dry Food
Step 1. Research the species you own
The people at the shop where you bought the fish should be able to help you choose your food if you can't find specific information about the species on the Internet. Find out if it is herbivores, carnivores or omnivores and the exact percentage of proteins that their fish species require to be fed under ideal conditions. Some exotic species require special nutrition, but most fish can be fed with the classic flakes or pellets. However, don't rush into the pet shop just yet.
Step 2. Find a specific fish feed if you can
Many aquarium fish are fed "universal" feeds or foods intended for a broad category, such as "tropical fish". If you read this section carefully, you can properly feed your fish using the right type of universal feed. However, if you can find a specific one that suits the species or group they belong to, your fish will most likely be healthier and happier. These feeds should be clearly labeled as "cichlid feed", "fighting fish feed", etc.
However, it is a good idea to follow the other steps in this section to check the suitability of a fish feed before purchasing it
Step 3. Choose feed that floats, sinks or slowly dips depending on the shape of the fish's mouth
You can ask the aquarium shop staff for advice if necessary, but often it will be enough to observe the behavior or shape of the fish's mouth to find out what type of food you need to buy. Bottom fish, such as catfish, spend time at the bottom of the aquarium with their mouth down or to the side in search of food. Midwater fish have their mouths pointing straight into the center of the tank, looking for food in this area. Surface fish have their mouths pointing upwards and congregate on the surface of the water when fed. If you are unsure what type your fish belong to, try a type of food and see if they are able to find and eat it. Certain fish are not limited exclusively to a part of the areas described.
- Flakes: they tend to float and are only suitable for surface fish and are also not recommended as they inflate the animal
- Granules or pellets: they can float, fall slowly or sink quickly. Read the information on the label before buying them.
- Wafer: it sinks and is usually too big to be "stolen" by surface fish.
- Tablets: they are deposited directly on the bottom or, at times, they attach themselves to the internal wall of the tank to feed the fish in the middle of the water.
Step 4. Check the protein content of the feed
Use the results of your research to narrow down the choice of feeds that do not match the diet of the species you own. Herbivores and omnivores need food containing mostly plant substances, such as spirulina. Depending on the species, the feed should contain between 5% and 40% protein, so do a thorough research on the species to narrow down your options. Carnivores, on the other hand, need a diet containing between 45% and 70% protein, depending on the species. Make sure the food you buy meets the needs of your fish.
- The fighting fish (betta splendens) are carnivorous and live on the surface. Their feed must contain at least 45% protein, float and be small enough to fit in the mouth. For this kind of fish it is often sold in the form of small pellets.
- Goldfish are omnivorous and need 30% protein when they are adults, or 45% when they are small. Aquatic plant proteins are easier for them to digest. They are surface fish, so flakes are a great choice.
Step 5. Make sure the food is small enough for the fish to eat
Many of them swallow it whole, which means that they are unable to break apart large flakes or pellets, so it is not suitable for their mouth. If the food you give your fish is intact or if it seems too big for their mouth, crush it into small pieces before feeding or find a smaller type.
Step 6. Do an online search for companies that produce fish feed
Before buying dry food, research the brand name and reviews. Companies that have a good reputation and excellent reviews from aquarists are more likely to produce high quality fish food.
Method 2 of 3: Feed the Dry Food
Step 1. Give the food in small portions
Although many people know that fish need a "pinch" of flake food every time they need to feed them, they risk giving fish digestive problems and make the aquarium a dirty and unhealthy environment if they throw in too large a handful.. Whatever type of feed you are using, only pour in what the fish can eat within 3-5 minutes. If you put too much, collect it with a small screen.
Attention: Fighting fish need to be fed much less than the amount they can eat in 5 minutes. A serving of two or three pellets for each is sufficient.
Step 2. Soak the pelleted feed before feeding
Because many aquarium fish have small stomachs, pelleted food that absorbs water and grows in size can cause digestive problems or bloating. Therefore, it is advisable to soak it in water for 10 minutes before pouring it so that it rises before being ingested by the fish instead of their stomach.
Step 3. Feed them once or twice a day
Since fish tend to be over-fed rather than small doses, it may be safer to feed fish once a day. However, if you are careful to feed them in small amounts - as described above - you can feed them twice a day. Some aquarium owners prefer the latter, as fish become more active and interesting to watch when they need to eat.
Step 4. Look for symptoms of overeating
If a trail of feces hangs from the fish, it is likely that its intestines are partially blocked due to overfeeding or the wrong type of feed. If the water becomes so dirty that it needs to be changed more than once a week, you may be overfeeding the fish or the aquarium is overcrowded. Reduce the amount of food or number of servings per day to see if the problem goes away within a few days. Ask for advice at the animal husbandry store or an aquarist if the situation does not improve.
Step 5. Spread the feed, so each fish will have some
Even within the same species, the largest or most aggressive fish may not leave enough food for others. To prevent this from happening, divide the food and pour it in different areas of the aquarium or spread it evenly over the entire surface of the water.
Step 6. Be careful not to have a problem if you have multiple types of fish
If you have fish that feed in different areas of the aquarium or that need different types of food, it is likely that it is imperative to purchase more than one feed. Take a good look at the aquarium when you feed the fish with a new type of food. You will likely have to find different combinations of food or timing to feed them, in case the surface fish need to eat all the food intended for the bottom ones. If some are active during the day and others at night, you can feed them at two different times so that each has enough food.
Step 7. Consider alternatives when going on vacation
It is not a problem to leave adult fish without food for a couple of days. If you do some research online about the species you own, you may find that they manage to survive without taking serious risks for a week or two. If your holidays are longer or if young fish have more pressing food needs, you will need to find a solution to feed them in your absence. Choose one of the following:
- Use an automatic feed dispenser to distribute food at regular intervals. Make sure you put in enough for the entire time you are away and set the dispenser to release the food once or twice a day.
- Try bulk or gel feed before you go. Both solutions are left in the aquarium and the food is eaten slowly. However, the former can cause dangerous chemical changes, while the latter is sometimes overlooked by fish. Try both strains for a couple of days before you leave to be sure there won't be any problems.
- Have a friend or neighbor give the granulated food once every two to three days. Since those who are inexperienced often give too much food, it is best to put each pinch of food in a pill box or other container on which you will carefully note the days of the week. Make it clear to the person who will take care of your fish that overfeeding could kill them.
Method 3 of 3: Supplement Dry Food for a Complete Diet
Step 1. Get these foods from safe sources
It is safer to get insects, worms, and other pet food at a livestock or aquarium store. Vegetable substances, on the other hand, should be grown organically away from street exhaust. If an experienced aquarist in your area tells you that you can trust the animals or plants in the area, then you can follow his advice. If not, realize that collecting these elements can expose your fish to the risk of diseases, parasites or harmful chemicals.
Step 2. Feed the predatory fish (animals however not recommended for beginners) with frozen or live fish, making sure that the latter are healthy
If you have carnivorous fish (such as tetras, barbels, rasboras, etc.) give them several times a week, live insects such as midges (Drosophila hydei or melanogaster), as a basis for their feeding you can use live or frozen aquatic invertebrates (easily found in a good aquarium shop or on the internet) such as: artemie, daphnie, misys and chironomus or mosquito larvae (the latter to be dosed as they are very caloric). For omnivorous fish (such as cichlids) the carnivorous diet can be taken as a basis by supplementing several times a week with boiled vegetables without salt. Always research the needs related to the species you own or ask an expert before choosing a food, as some can transmit disease or cause digestive problems when fed to certain species. As you do every time you feed them, only pour in small amounts of food. For some species it will be enough portions that are devoured within 30 seconds.
- Attention: freeze-dried feeds are another solution, but should only be used occasionally because of the digestive problems that they risk causing if given in large quantities to some species, such as that of fighting fish.
- Avoid live tubifex worms, even those sold in pet stores and raised on fish farms. They have a reputation for causing disease in many species, although the frozen variety is normally safe.
Step 3. Feed most fish vegetables or seaweed
Herbivores and omnivores will likely be healthier and more colorful if you add plant matter to their diet from time to time. Many carnivorous species can also eat the vegetables from which they extract the necessary nutrients. As always, do an Internet search for fish species before feeding a new type of food. You can attach a piece of vegetable inside the aquarium with pliers or cut it into small pieces to give to the fish. Make sure you remove any uneaten vegetables within 48 hours or they will start rotting in the tub.
- Carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, lettuce, and peas are just some of the vegetables your fish might enjoy. Give them once every few days or as recommended for your species.
- Another solution is to use spirulina powder, infusoria, algae or other plant elements sold in aquarium stores and also necessary for small and young fish that cannot eat large portions of vegetables. If you will not cover the surface and walls of the aquarium with algae, you can add them by following the instructions once or twice a day.
Step 4. Feed the fish using a variety of these supplements to ensure excellent health
Each type of animal and plant provides different vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. Alternate between two or three types of animals or meat (for carnivorous fish) or vegetables (for other fish) to be more likely to give your fish everything they need.
Step 5. Give vitamins or minerals directly if you notice any problems
If your fish's vibrant coloration fades, their activity is reduced, or you notice other signs of poor health, they are likely to be missing some nutrients. It is best to seek expert advice to get a clearer idea of what vitamins or minerals your fish need or to pinpoint other problems. They may need these supplements during times of stress, such as when new fish are introduced to the aquarium.
If you breed animals to give them live to fish or buy live food at animal husbandry stores, you can feed them with mineral or vitamin supplements, which in turn will be assimilated by the predatory fish. This technique is called "gut load"
Step 6. Look for specific advice for raising babies
Newborn fish, or fry, are often too small to eat normal food. As their dietary needs are often different from those of adult fish and many times need to be fed every few hours, it is essential to seek specific advice based on the species you own. As always, search the Internet for information to make sure the fry have a better chance of survival.
Advice
- Keep snails in the tank, even the "spontaneous" ones will do well, they will take care of cleaning up any excess food.
- In case of overfeeding, where the fish appear bloated, leave them without food for a day or two. If they are still bloated, give them a few pieces taken from the inside of a pea to aid digestion.
- If you are going to hand feed them, put the feed in your hand and let the fish swim and take the food from your hand. Don't keep trying if they seem shy and have difficulty eating, as you risk stressing them.
Warnings
- Dry food for healthy fish in great shape is to be relegated to 1 or 2 times a week, as it is comparable to poor fast food.
- Be careful not to feed too much, otherwise they can die!
- If you feed fish live food, you need to make sure it is healthy and free from parasites.
- Certain foods, such as beef heart, are high in fat. Your fish will love them, but you should avoid them as much as possible.
- Do not feed fish a new type of food (such as insects or vegetables) without checking if it is suitable for their species. Some can get sick from eating certain foods or have other health problems.
