While wild horses can run for miles every day without any protection on their hooves, domesticated horses require regularly maintained shoes to protect their hooves from injury and maximize their effectiveness as working animals. People trained in the art of shoeing are called ferratori. Learning the basic skills of a shoe maker is a good idea for almost any horse owner, as the cost of calling a professional can quickly become very high, given that horseshoes are replaced once every four or eight weeks.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Preparing a Horse's Foot for Shoeing
Step 1. Lift the bear's hoof to prepare it for shoeing
When shoeing a horse, for your safety and the horse's comfort, it is important to move the hoof to a position that does not surprise or irritate him. Make sure the horse is aware of your presence by stroking it a little on the rump, then, to lift its hoof, run your hand along the leg, lightly press the tendon above the ankle, and then lift the hoof. The horse should shift its weight to the other three legs.
- As you work, keep your foot steady by resting your hip against the hock (the large joint on the hind leg) and the hock rope (the muscle on the hock) of the horse. Use the inside of the knee to pull the hoof slightly and lift it between your legs so that the sole of the hoof is facing you. Support the toe of the hoof with one hand. This actually holds the horse's hoof firmly in place, making it difficult for the horse to kick or put the leg back down before you're done.
- Be sure to compliment the horse for their cooperation and patience. Saying "Good" or "Yes" when he lifts a paw is a positive reinforcement of his good behaviors.
Step 2. Remove any shoes that were previously on the horse's hoof
To remove a hoof, first "break" (straighten) the nail heads (the bent tips of each nail holding the iron up) with a nail cutter and hammer. Bring the nail clipper blade under the nail, then hit it with a hammer to straighten the nail. Then, use a pair of metal tongs to loosen and remove the iron. Close the teeth of the pincers around the outer heel of the iron and use a toe-to-heel rocking motion to loosen the iron. Repeat for the inner heel and work this way until you can remove the iron.
There are several alternatives for breaking the nail tips. If necessary, you can use a stone and a flat screwdriver to fold the tip up or, if you are careful not to make a hole in the wall of the hoof, you can also use a rasp to file the tip until it disappears
Step 3. Clean the bottom of the plinth
For your horse's health and safety, you don't want to trap dirt or dust between his new shoe and hoof. So, before shoeing your horse, use a curved metal tool called a hoof rule to remove any pressed dirt, mud, stones, droppings, etc. from its hoof. Use heel-to-toe downward motions. After the ruler pass an iron bristle brush for further cleaning.
Be careful around the fork - the triangular portion in the center of the hoof. This part of the hoof is very sensitive
Step 4. Use a hoof knife to remove excess stripped sole from the bottom of the hoof
Typically, before a horse is shod, the dark, hard, outermost material of the hoof sole is removed to reveal the softer, lighter material underneath, in a process equivalent to trimming a human's nails. Be careful not to cut too deeply, or you risk injuring your horse or even crippling it temporarily - the same way a person's fingers do if you cut their nails too much.
This process is easier if you keep your hoof knife sharp, but if you do, be very careful as it is easy to accidentally slip and cut yourself while working
Step 5. Trim the excess hoof wall with horse pliers
The hoof wall - or hoof edge - should extend approximately 3 inches to a maximum of 3 3/4 inches from the hairline beyond the hoof itself. If it's longer, use a pair of pliers (essentially giant nail clippers) to shorten the edge of the hoof to an appropriate length.
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When shortening the hoof with pliers, be sure to keep the shortened edges of the hoof evenly straight and level so that they adhere properly to the ground. Trim each side from heel to toe.
The only exception to this is in cases where a horse's gait wears out its hooves unevenly - in this case, you'll want to take off a little less material from the side the horse rests on the most. Be careful when making this distinction, and if you are unsure, consult an experienced ironer
Step 6. Use a rasp to flatten and level the sole
The very last thing to do to prepare the hoof for its shoe is to make sure the sole of the hoof is smooth, flat and level. Use a rasp to gently file any uneven spots on the bottom of the hoof, being careful, as always, not to shorten the hoof too much and not to irritate the fork.
Part 2 of 2: Shoe the Horse
Step 1. Measure the iron at the socket
As with human feet, horseshoes exist in many different sizes and, therefore, different horses will need a different size shoe. Before proceeding, make sure that the shoes you have available are the right size for your horse's hooves. Note that a horse's front and rear hooves have different shapes, so you'll need different shoes for each.
If you have to choose between irons that are a little too small or too big, go for the larger ones. They can be folded, twisted, and tightened to a smaller size, while those that are too small cannot be enlarged
Step 2. If necessary, make small changes to the shape of the iron
Often, even if they are the right size, the shoes will not fit perfectly on a horse's hoof without making minor adjustments first. Like the feet of humans, a horse's hooves can be asymmetrical or uneven. There are several ways to deform to the size of the irons.
- If you know how to work metal, you can heat the iron until you can bend the steel to the size of the hoof.
- Alternatively, you can cold shape it on the anvil using a hammer and tongs.
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Some ironers do neither, preferring to tighten the irons to the extent needed with a rasp or grinder.
Horseshoes that fit well should line up perfectly with the edge of the hoof. It may take some time to fit a clog perfectly
Step 3. Secure the iron in place with its nails
Line up the shoe so that it perfectly touches the edge of the hoof, then hammer the nails into the holes in the shoe to secure it to the horse's hoof.
- Guide the nails inside the hoof outward, so that the tip of the nail comes out at the top of the outside of the hoof.
- Do not thread never the nails on the inside and sensitive part of the hoof. To facilitate this, it is advisable to use specially constructed hoof nails that have an edge on one side to guide the tip to the top of the hoof wall. With these special nails, usually, the trademark on the side of the nail should be facing the center of the hoof (towards the fork) - this ensures that the edge is facing in the right direction.
- Some modern irons use glue rather than nails to hold the irons in place. If you are concerned about harming the horse, you may want to try this alternative. Note that application methods for glue irons may vary - consult the manufacturer or an experienced ironer for more information.
Step 4. Bend and remove the nail tips
Once each nail has been inserted, use the clawed end of the hammer to bend the tip of the nail against the hoof wall. Then, remove the tip using a pair of pliers to bend and remove the tips. Try to leave about 1/8 of the bent tip at the edge of the hole formed by the nail pointing towards the iron. This ensures that the nail holds the iron in place without the sharp point hurting you or your horse.
Step 5. Lock the nail
Place a rivet under the nail in the outer wall of the hoof, then fix the nail on the hoof (or "tap it back") by hitting the head of the nail again with the carpenter's hammer. This gives the nail a firm hold in the horse's hoof, ensuring that the shoe stays in place. You can use a sturdy metal tool, such as your pliers, in place of the nail rivet should the need arise.
Another option is to use a special tool called a nail cutter. With this tool, all you need to do is line up the jaws of the nail clipper on the tip of the nail and tighten the handles
Step 6. File out any rough spots on the hoof wall
Finally, give the outside of the hoof a check with a rasp, smoothing out uneven spots and giving the hoof a clean and tidy finish. Pay particular attention to the riveted nail tips, which can be filed in turn. When you're done, ideally, you should be able to wipe the surface of the hoof with a cloth without it getting stuck.
You may also notice excess hoof material extending beyond the edge of the iron. If this is the case, use a pair of pliers or tongs to shorten it
Step 7. Repeat the process three times until all four hooves are secured
Remember that the front and rear hooves will require differently shaped irons and that the front and rear hooves may also not match symmetrically with each other.
Advice
If you can't get the horse to lift your foot, lean your weight against the leg and pinch behind the pastern
Warnings
- Shooting a horse is something that is best left to someone with experience. It's a dangerous job and shouldn't be done for the first time after reading a short article. You could seriously injure yourself or seriously cripple your horse. Please do not try to do this without consulting a professional.
- Horses kick… be careful
- When ironing, be sure not to leave tools that the horse could step on.
