Freshly cut wood contains a lot of water which makes it rather difficult to light and keep the fire alive. Even if it burns, the "green" one releases less heat, runs out quickly, creates more smoke and soot. Proper drying takes time, so it's best to start worrying about it six months in advance. However, once you've cut the logs to the right size and stacked them carefully, all you have to do is wait for the sun and air to do their job.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Chopping Wood
Step 1. Get it early
Buy it or cut it at least six months before you plan to burn it. For best results, start further in advance to give the material more time to dry; if possible, harvest it a year in advance to cure it completely.
- The climate affects the drying times; if you live in a particularly humid region, plan for a longer seasoning.
- Particularly dense wood, such as elm or oak, needs more time.
Step 2. Choose a safe work area
Unless you've bought wood already in logs, find an outside area where you can cut it yourself. Check that there is enough space to handle a saw and / or an ax, without the interference of any obstacles; opt for flat, even ground for stability as you work.
Make sure that people and animals stay away from the area; when you start chopping wood, check behind you often to make sure no one is approaching
Step 3. Cut whole logs into uniform cylinders
First, measure the size of the fireplace, boiler or tool you use to burn wood; subtract 7-8 cm from the value obtained, in width or length, according to the method of insertion of the logs. Use this data to measure the trunk and make marks on the cutting points; Then divide it into pieces of equal length, using an ax or a saw.
- As the wood shrinks as it dries, some people prefer to cut the logs slightly larger. If you are a beginner, overdo it out of caution and break small pieces until you learn to gauge the degree of shrinkage you can expect.
- If you live in a humid climate region, divide the log into even smaller sections to speed up the seasoning process.
- By cutting the logs evenly, you facilitate the stacking work.
Step 4. Split the wood
Place the stump on flat ground; place a cylinder on top of it with the cut side facing up and cut or split the cylinder in half by moving the tool from top to bottom. Repeat the process with the two halves you have obtained as many times as necessary to adapt the logs to the size of the fireplace, stove or boiler.
- Break each cylinder in half at least once, even if the fireplace can hold it whole. Since the bark retains moisture within the wood, it is essential to expose as much heartwood and sapwood to the air as possible.
- To speed up drying times, cut the logs into smaller pieces than necessary.
- Also, make sure that the logs have different sizes; cut small pieces that burn quickly and larger blocks that last a long time.
Part 2 of 3: Stack the Wood
Step 1. Choose the ideal area to stack it
It must be an area that is never or almost never in the shade, to make the most of the action of the sun. Air circulation is also important, so opt for a spot exposed to prevailing winds or other currents; avoids areas subject to flooding, water drains and / or accumulations of stagnant water.
- Consult the almanacs or weather stations to find out the direction of the prevailing winds in your region.
- If you live in a hilly area, be aware that winds move in both directions along the slope.
Step 2. Organize the stack
If possible, try to stack the logs in a single row, with the cut ends exposed to the strongest air flow. Make sure you follow this technique instead of creating multiple rows, to allow all the wood to receive the same amount of air.
If the space available does not allow this method, space the rows as much as possible to promote ventilation between them
Step 3. Create a raised shelf
Keep the wood slightly raised from the ground, to prevent it from rotting due to the moisture that collects under it. Use material that does not absorb water, such as concrete or a grid made with posts arranged horizontally; alternatively, you can use wooden supports, such as pallets or planks that you no longer use. Make sure the surface is best leveled to stack the wood safely.
If you have opted for wooden supports, cover them with cloths, plastic sheets or other similar material, to prevent their humidity from transferring to the pile; do not forget, however, to create drainage holes, so that water does not stagnate on the sheet
Step 4. Build the side supports
First, start stacking the wood by aligning the cut logs on the raised surface following their length. Arrange each piece so that the cut ends are all facing the same direction. Create a second layer of logs on both sides of the row, arranging them perpendicularly; continue to stack them on the sides, alternating their direction to create stable "walls".
- You can make these structures in one go or build them as you go along with the stack. If you have opted for the first solution, stop working when they reach the height of 1.20 m; so that the top of the pile does not exceed the level of the head of most adults, in case it collapses.
- Use the "best" logs for side supports. When grabbing a piece, check all sides of it to make sure they are even. Discard those that have one end that is obviously more tapered than the other, because they compromise the stability of the structure.
- Make sure that the side covered with the bark is facing up. Since this element is resistant to humidity, this arrangement allows to protect the wooden core from rain.
Step 5. Arrange the wood in layers
Start the second layer by stacking it between the two side supports. Orient the logs so that the ends are all facing in the same direction, exactly like the base layer, fitting each piece at the junction between the two below; place each element to partially cover two logs of the previous layer. Repeat the process until the stack reaches 1.20m high.
- Arrange each piece with the bark side up to protect the inside from rain.
- If necessary, use the small pieces to fill the cracks and improve the stability of the structure.
- If each layer is solid enough to support the next, leave the vents free to improve airflow.
Step 6. Cover the stack if you wish
Consider if you can leave it exposed or if you prefer to protect it from the rain. If you opt for the former, use a black or clear plastic sheet. For best results, support the cover with something other than the pile itself (such as poles or pegs), so that it does not come into contact with the wood.
- With direct contact between the sheet and the stack, the logs absorb condensation, the air flow is reduced and the cover is more likely to break due to friction.
- Black materials absorb heat and accelerate evaporation, transparent ones let sunlight through.
- Unless it rains a lot in your region and / or the drying season is very short, leaving the stack exposed should still allow you to have the firewood in time for when you need it.
Part 3 of 3: Check the Degree of Dryness
Step 1. Check the color
Although the exact shade of the wood depends on the variety, remember that it gets darker as the material dries. When you split it, observe its color and wait for the relatively white one to turn yellow or gray before burning it.
Step 2. Smell the resin smell
When cutting logs, bring one to your nose and inhale deeply; familiarize yourself with the smell of the resin. When it comes time to fuel the fireplace, choose a test piece from the stack, cut it in half and smell it - if it still releases a resinous aroma, put it back into the stack to dry a little more.
Step 3. Inspect the cortex
If most of it has fallen off the logs, the wood can be burned; if it has stuck, try cutting it off with a knife to inspect the sapwood below. Allow the greenish pieces to age a little longer before using them.
Step 4. Evaluate the density
When you are splitting wood for the first time, consider the weight of the logs; once all the water is lost, the same piece should weigh a lot less. For an even more thorough inspection, tap two blocks together; if they sound "empty", it means that they are dried.
Step 5. Have a bonfire
If you still have doubts, gather some logs for a test fire. If the large chunks and twigs don't catch fire, let them cure for a little longer, as they are clearly still damp. If they catch fire, pay attention to a hissing sound that indicates residual water.
