How to Make a Personal Sewing Pattern

2024 Author: Samantha Chapman | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 09:13

Making a sewing pattern yourself will save you money and allow you to tailor your garments to your personal measurements. The easiest way to make a sewing pattern is to copy a garment you already own and make the necessary changes. It is also possible to make one from scratch, using only your measurements as a reference: however, remember that you will have to do some research on the type of garment in question, in order to understand how to prepare the different pieces of the model.

Steps

Method 1 of 2: Making a Pattern by Copying a Garment

Step 1. Mark the seams with chalk

Arrange the garment you want to copy on a flat surface, so that it faces up. Trace the front seams using white chalk.

This technique can be used on any garment, but works best on simpler garments with a not too complicated shape. You can also use it to create a model of some accessories, such as a handbag.
For now, focus on the seams surrounding the larger front of the garment. You will need to work on the front side first, starting with the wider section and gradually moving towards the smaller ones, then you can move on to working on the back side.
If, for example, you want to design a dress, start by tracing the seams of the sleeves and the seams that separate the torso from the skirt (if possible).

Step 2. Lay the pattern paper on a flat surface

Use a large sheet of brown wrapping paper and spread it out on a stiff surface.

A hard surface will facilitate the transfer process and line drawing. Avoid working on a carpet or other soft surfaces.
A cork board will be even better, because it will allow you to pin the garment as you work.
Wrapping paper is ideal because it can be found in large quantities. Furthermore, chalk is very visible on this type of paper.

Step 3. Spread the original garment on the paper

Arrange the garment on the paper, with the side with the drawn lines facing down. Remove the creases and carefully press the back of the dress, following the lines of the seams.

Use your non-dominant hand or weights to keep the garment steady and flat. At the same time, use your dominant hand to press the back of the garment along the seams you have previously traced with chalk.
If you carry out the operation correctly, the plaster present on the garment should transfer to the paper.
You can pin the garment onto the paper as you work, but remember to do so only if you are working on a cork board or other porous surface. Thread the pins by holding them straight through fabric, paper, and cork.

Step 4. Trace the perimeter of the largest area

Still keeping the garment flat, draw a line around the top, bottom and sides of the garment using chalk.

Make sure the garment remains flat and firm.
Remember to only trace the edges of the main part. Each section will require its own pattern piece, so it's important to focus on one part at a time.
If, for example, you are working on a pattern of a dress, you will need to trace the line of the neck and the sides of the torso. If the skirt and torso are one piece and are not joined by a seam, trace the sides and bottom of the skirt as well.

Step 5. Repeat the operation for the back and for the smaller parts

For each section of the chosen garment you will need to trace the seams with chalk and press them so that they transfer onto the paper. Similarly you will need to outline the edges of each section. Create separate pattern pieces for each part of the garment.

Finish the front piece first and only then move on to the back pieces.
For example, if you are designing a dress, you will need to make the front sleeves, front skirt, back sleeves, back torso and back skirt first.
Be sure to mark each section as you work.
Do not draw the pieces close to each other. Leave at least 2.5 cm of space.

Step 6. Draw a seam allowance

Remove the garment from the paper and draw a second parallel line that is about 1 cm from each edge.

Technically, most of the models on the market use a seam allowance of 1.5 cm, so you can choose to use this measurement instead of the one suggested above (i.e. 1 cm). Regardless of which size you choose, be consistent and use the same seam allowance for each piece

Step 7. Cut out the parts

Use sharp scissors to cut out each piece of pattern along the seam allowance lines.

Done

Method 2 of 2: Making a T-Shirt Template from Nothing

Step 1. Take your measurements

Take measurements of the torso, arms and neck. Add a 5 cm margin to each measurement so that it is more "comfortable" and does not fit too tightly. You will need the measurements of:

Half Neck: Wrap a string so it hangs around your neck, measure it, add the margin and divide by two.
Half Shoulder: Measure the distance between the shoulders, add the margin and divide by two.
Quarter bust: Measure your bust, add the margin, and divide by four.
Quarter Waist: Measure the narrowest part of the waist, add the margin, and divide by four.
Quarter Hips: Measure the widest part of your hips, add the margin, and divide by four.
From the highest point of the shoulders to the chest: Find the point between the base of the neck and the shoulders. Measure from this height up to the chest, passing the tape under the armpit. Add the margin.
The distance between the highest point of the shoulders and the natural waist.
The distance between the highest point of the shoulders and the hips.
Half Bicep: Measure the widest part of your bicep with your arm down, add the margin and divide by two.
The length of the sleeves: measure from the shoulders to the point where you want the sleeves to go.
The lower arm: measure from the armpits to where you want the sleeves to go, then subtract 2.5 cm.
Half wrist, if you are going to make a long-sleeved shirt: measure the circumference of the wrist and divide by two.

Step 2. Prepare the front side

Unroll a sheet of paper, making sure it is longer than the "shoulder-to-hips" measurement and the "quarter-hips" measurement. One side of the paper must be perfectly straight.

Lightly draw a perpendicular line starting from the edge, starting 5 cm from the top of the paper and respecting the "half neck" measurement. It will be the measurement of the highest point of your shoulders.
Slightly draw another perpendicular line 1.5 cm below the first. Should measure when the length of the "mid shoulder" measurement.
From the line of the highest point of the shoulders, measure the distance of the line "from the highest point of the shoulders to the chest". Mark the point where you will arrive.
Draw a perpendicular line directly above the last point, starting from the right edge of the paper. It should be as long as the measurement of the quarter bust.
Starting from the highest point of the shoulders, measure the distance of the line "from the highest point of the shoulders to the waist" and mark the point. Draw a perpendicular line above this point, starting from the straight edge of the paper, so that it is as long as the "quarter waist".
Starting from the highest point of the shoulders, measure the distance of the line "from the highest point of the shoulders to the hips" and mark the point. Then draw a perpendicular line above this point, starting from the straight edge of the card, so that it is as long as the "quarter of hips".

Step 3. Connect the dots

You will need to connect the points you measured in a specific way, so as to outline the pattern of your shirt.

Draw a slightly concave curve starting from the highest point of the shoulders and ending at the straight edge of the paper. It will be your front neckline. The line should run straight about 5mm towards both ends.
Connect the highest point of the shoulders to the point of the shoulders, with a slightly convex line.
Draw a concave curved line between the point of the shoulders and the line of the quarter bust, to create the hole in the sleeves. It should be quite straight down from the shoulders, while the curve should intensify as it reaches the sides of the skirt.
Draw a line from the bust line to the waist line, then work your way down to your hips. If you want straight sides, make a straight line. For a tighter garment, outline a slight inward curve.
Draw a slightly convex curve that starts from the line of the hips and reaches the straight edge of the paper. The end point should be about 2 cm below the line of the hips.
Remember that looking at the straight edge of the paper you should consider it your "center seam". In other words, it will be the vertical center of your shirt. When cutting the material to make the shirt you will have to fold it around the line of the "center seam" and cut out two layers of fabric.

Step 4. Repeat the same operation for the back side, making only slight changes

Use the same method used for the front piece to outline the pattern of the back of the shirt. When tracing the back neckline, make it less accentuated than the front one.

If the front neckline can measure 5 cm or more, the back one should range from 1.5 to 2.5 cm.
If your paper model is transparent, you may want to add a second piece over the first to make it more consistent.

Step 5. Prepare the sleeves

You will need to fold a piece of pattern paper in half. It should be approximately 7-10 cm wider than the "mid biceps" and "sleeve length" measurement.

Remember that this fold proceeds in the sense of height.
Measure the length of the sleeves along the folded edge, marking both the bottom and top of the line. Leave about 2.5 cm from the top of the paper.
From the bottom mark, measure the "lower arm length" and mark the end point.
From this point measure a perpendicular line, measuring the length of "half biceps". Mark the new arrival point.

Step 6. Connect the dots

You will need it to outline the upper curve of the sleeve and straight edges.

Measure the distance of the "sleeve hole" on a tape measure. Hold the measuring tape and place it on the model. Start taking measurements from the biceps line. Let it follow a perpendicular angle of about 2.5 cm before curling it and reaching the top of the fold at a right angle.
Draw another perpendicular line that starts from the bottom of the fold and that is equal to the measurement of "half biceps" minus 2.5 cm.
Draw a straight line that connects the end of the previous line to that of your first "bicep line".
Outline the same half sleeve on the other side of the folded paper.

Step 7. Add a seam allowance

Use the chalk to draw a second border on all of the pattern pieces. It will be your seam allowance.

The seam allowance should be approximately 0.5 cm on the front, back and sleeves of the shirt.
Instead, count a 2.5 cm seam allowance on all hemming lines.

Step 8. Cut the pattern pieces

Use sharp scissors to cut out each piece of the pattern along the seam lines. Leave them aside until you are ready to use them.

Make sure you mark each piece of the pattern correctly

Step 9. Draw the neck line

You will need to measure the front and back curve of the neck and draw a rectangle based on them.

Measure the front and back curve of the neck along the seam lines, not along the seam allowance. Multiply these numbers by two and add them to get the neck circumference.
The length of the neck rectangle should measure approximately 7/8 of this measurement.
The width of the neck rectangle should be around 4cm, but you can change this measurement depending on how wide you want your neckline to be.