The correct position of the handlebars guarantees the cyclist perfect comfort and allows him to try his hand at optimal performance, both on the road and on dirt paths. Children's bicycles need to be adjusted annually to accommodate their growth. Thankfully, all you need is a set of Allen keys and 5-10 minutes to perfectly adjust the handlebar position.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Handlebar with Integrated Headset
Step 1. This type of handlebar does not lend itself to many adjustments
To avoid unnecessary weight on the bike, several headsets (the L-shaped part that sits in the center of the handlebar and secures it to the frame) don't have much play. If you want to make substantial changes to this kind of handlebar, the best thing to do is to buy a new steering wheel from a specialist shop. If you have serious comfort issues with your bike, for example you can't reach the handlebars or the handlebars are too close, then you should consider buying a shorter or longer steering.
Integrated headset handlebars feature one large bolt in the center of the top and two smaller ones that lock it down. If your bike has a single piece of metal that connects the frame to the handlebar, then you have a threaded or standard steering
Step 2. Adjust the height of the stem to your comfort and not to the theoretical "correct" height
Let the body decide where the dumbbell should be placed. The back should not be hunched or bent, and the arms should be slightly flexed at the elbows. However, the important thing is to have a comfortable posture on the bike. Ask a friend to hold the bike straight by locking the front wheel between your thighs while you saddle up and try the handlebars. Regardless of whether it's a road model or a mountain bike:
- Competing cyclists should use low handlebars so that they take a squatting and aerodynamic position. In this case the handlebar must be 5-10 cm below the level of the seat.
- People who use the bike for short trips or only in their free time, should keep the handlebars at the same height as the seat or higher.
Step 3. Loosen the steering top cap by unscrewing the vertical tension screw located where the steering meets the frame
Take an Allen wrench and remove this bolt that holds the handlebar attached to the frame. This step is essential to make the adjustment. Remove the long screw and remove the cap; Put both pieces aside for now, in a safe place.
Step 4. Unscrew the bolts located on the sides of the steering wheel
Again you have to use an Allen key. The bolts are located on the side of the steering head closest to the seat; loosen them just enough to remove the handlebar and steering from the frame.
Step 5. Pull the steerer out of the bicycle frame
Slowly disassemble the handlebars, being very careful not to tear or bend the cables that connect to the derailleurs and brakes. The cables always have some slack, but to be safe, you should carry the bike to a table or chair and gently place the handlebars, close to the frame.
Step 6. Add or remove spacer washers to bring the handlebar to the desired height
These rings are the only thing you need to change the height of a handlebar with an integrated headset. These are small washers that allow you to raise or lower the hand rest. Remember, however, that the conical element that sits at the base of the steering and connects it to the frame is the ball bearing cup and cannot be removed.
You can buy all the necessary spacers at a bike shop if you need to turn up the handlebars
Step 7. Slide the steering over the spacers
For now, you don't have to worry about aligning the handlebars perfectly. If you have disassembled washers, put them on top of the steering wheel so you won't lose them; the top cap and tension screw will cover them.
Step 8. Reinsert the top cap and tension screw by hand tightening
There is no need to stare tightly, the torque you can apply with one hand is more than enough. This screw or bolt does not interfere with the lateral movements of the handlebar, so you can tighten it before proceeding with the alignment.
- If you are working with delicate parts, such as a carbon fiber frame, then you should get a torque wrench so you can be sure you don't break anything.
- Make sure the handlebar rotates freely; otherwise, slightly loosen the tensioning screw until the steering becomes smooth again.
Step 9. Align the steering wheel with the front wheel
Stand on top of the bike with the frame between your legs and lock the front wheel so that it is perfectly straight forward. Close one eye and adjust the handlebar so that the center piece is perfectly aligned with the front wheel. To have optimal control of the vehicle, these two elements must be in line.
- If you are having difficulty holding the handlebar still, then tighten the nuts a quarter of a turn to slightly block its tendency to rotate. However, at this stage, the handlebar still has to move independently of the wheel.
- When you are happy with the alignment, tighten the nuts.
Step 10. Check the front axle alignment
Remember that this name indicates the entire group that allows the bike to turn (handlebar, steering, fork and front wheel). It starts with the tension screw that secures the steering to the frame and affects the ability to turn; to check alignment, stand with the bike frame between your legs and pull the front brake lever. Push the wheel back and forth, and if you feel abnormal movements and swaying under your hands, then you need to tighten the bolts, first the tension bolt and then the side bolts. Please check again later.
If you feel any obstacles in turning the steering or feel "points of resistance", then loosen the top bolt slightly
Method 2 of 3: Handlebar with Threaded Headset
Step 1. Find out if your bike has a threaded headset
In this case, the steering is a single piece of metal that protrudes from the frame, folds forward and then attaches to the handlebar. There is a large nut at the base of the steering wheel at the point where it comes out of the frame and which fixes it in place, while there is a vertical bolt at the top. This type of steering is not difficult to adjust and is very common on single shift, fixed gear bikes and older models.
Some bicycles do not have the hex nut at the base, only the vertical bolt
Step 2. Loosen the bolt located at the top of the steering column
This is in the vertical direction and creates the pressure needed to secure the steering to the frame. Use an Allen key to loosen it, there is no need to pull it out completely.
Step 3. With a wrench, open the nut at the base
You have to unlock that big "ring" which is located at the base of the steering, where it enters the frame of the bike; for this operation use a wrench.
Step 4. Pull the handlebar out of the frame
You will probably have to rotate it a bit and move it to be able to pull it off. If your bike is new, draw a mark on the head tube to define the original position of the handlebar (use a marker), or note the distance, in case you need to restore the old settings.
Step 5. Clean and lightly grease the steering
Remove any dirt residue using soap and water and then wipe the stem with an old rag. To prevent the steering from getting stuck in the frame, apply anti-seize grease along its entire circumference in the lower 5-8 cm.
Step 6. When deciding on the new handlebar position, consider your use of the bicycle
In fact, the correct handlebar height largely depends on the type of bike and how you want to use it. That said, your first concern is comfort. You must place the handlebars in a position that allows you a comfortable posture and sitting at all times.
- Road bikes: the handlebars of racing bikes should be slightly lower than the seat, to allow the rider an aerodynamic position and greater control even at high speed.
- Mountain bike: on these models the handlebar is mounted lower than the seat. This allows you to lower the center of gravity and improve balance when tackling unpaved surfaces.
- Cruiser or city-bike: in this case the handlebar is slightly higher than the seat, to minimize fatigue and provide maximum comfort.
Step 7. Reinsert the steering wheel at the desired height, close the hex nut at the base and finally the vertical bolt
You can limit yourself to manual tightening, especially with regard to the bolt. You must not overtighten the bolt, otherwise you will have a hard time unscrewing it later.
Method 3 of 3: Adjust the Handlebar Incline
Step 1. Make sure your bike has an adjustable stem
You can recognize it because it has a single bolt that is inserted perpendicularly, where the steering enters the frame. You can loosen this bolt, adjust the angle, and then tighten the bolt again. If your bicycle includes this solution, then modify the stem and test the new set-up before continuing; this may be enough to find a comfortable posture while pedaling.
Step 2. Loosen the four screws located at the end of the handlebar stem
The stem is that metal element perpendicular to the handlebar itself and which connects it to the frame. At the front of the handlebar (looking at the bike from the front) there are four screws that lock a small metal plate in the center of the handlebar. Loosen to be able to rotate the handlebar up or down.
Step 3. Know the correct handlebar angle
You should feel like you can comfortably play a piano on the handlebars. Your arms should be slightly bent and you should have no difficulty reaching the brake controls. The back should form a 45 ° angle at the waist. Ask a friend to support the bike while you mount to check the position of the handlebars.
Adjusting the angle is a minor change. If you can't reach the brake levers, have to bend uncomfortably or have your arms fully extended, then you'd better buy a new type of steering, or you should be wondering if the bike you're using isn't too big for you
Step 4. Tilt the handlebar to a comfortable position, tighten the screws and give it a try
Ask a friend to hold your bike or take a quick test ride in a safe area. However, remember to fully tighten the screws before pedaling, as the weight of your body could suddenly shift the position of the handlebar and you could fall.
- In many ways, the angle of the handlebar is a completely personal choice. The angle that allows you a comfortable posture is the right one.
- If you experience numbness in your fingers while cycling, consider tilting the handlebars a little more. This relieves the pressure on your palms which could prevent good blood circulation.
Step 5. Once you have established the ideal angle for you, tighten the screws
You need to tighten them enough to prevent any handlebar sagging while riding the bike. However, do not tighten them to the point that you will not be able to unlock them in the future or that their threads will be damaged.
If you have a torque wrench, tighten the screws with a torque of 5 Nm
Advice
- Make sure you have not twisted or coiled the brake or shift cables when adjusting the handlebar.
- Make sure you can reach the brake and shift levers without difficulty after changing the handlebar position.
- If you find it too difficult to change the position of the handlebars, consider changing the height of the seat.
