A frozen parking brake (also called a hand brake) can cause some problems, but can easily be "thawed". Unlike the normal braking system found on most vehicles, the manual one is not hydraulic, but a purely mechanical system, which works thanks to springs and cables wrapped in a sheath. If temperatures drop enough, water can accumulate in the sheath, freezing and ice prevents the cable from sliding properly.
Steps
Part 1 of 7: Blowing the Ice
Step 1. Start the car
Turn the key and start the engine; in this way, the various components begin to heat up thanks to the engine and the exhaust gases that flow through the exhaust system. Typically, an engine takes ten minutes to warm up, but the time can vary based on the outside temperature. By increasing the engine rpm you can speed up the process.
Step 2. Repeatedly release and activate the parking brake
This is the simplest method to move the ice that blocks the mechanisms; this method also allows you to stay warm inside the car. If you have given the car time to warm up as described in the previous step and have unsuccessfully applied and released the handbrake 5-10 times, you should consider tapping the ice off the mechanisms.
Step 3. Gently hit the handbrake
Read the vehicle maintenance manual to find out which wheels are connected to the brake. Gently tap the brake drum or brake calipers with a hammer or sledge hammer to loosen the ice. You can place a piece of wood or cardboard on top of the brake components to protect them, although this is usually not necessary. You can also try gently swaying the cable to remove the ice crystals.
Part 2 of 7: Melting the Ice
Step 1. Find an appropriate source of heat
A heat gun or hair dryer is usually fine, but you need to get an extension cable to get them closer to the machine. Very hot water is an alternative, but you need to be aware of current temperatures; If the ambient is still far below the freezing point, the hot water may freeze when cooled.
Step 2. Apply heat to brake components
Consult the manual to find out which wheels are connected to the parking brake; afterwards, use the heat source to heat the cable, drum, or pliers of those wheels. You must direct the flow of air to these mechanical elements until they are warm to the touch; the time it takes depends a lot on the outside climate.
- This operation must be carried out under the body of the machine, which you must then lift.
- For safety, you should turn off the engine and chock the wheels before sliding under the car.
Step 3. Try to release the handbrake
After applying heat to the brake system, it immediately disengages the brake without giving the various elements time to refreeze.
Part 3 of 7: Melting the Ice with Engine Heat
Step 1. Roll down all windows
For this method you have to block all the spaces under the car, exposing yourself to the risk of an accumulation of carbon monoxide in the passenger compartment. You should roll down all the windows and turn the fan on to maximum to ensure good air circulation.
Step 2. Create a "tunnel" under the car
Shovel the snow or arrange other materials along the sides of the car to close the space down to the ground as much as possible. Your goal is to create a required path for heat from the engine to the rear of the car, where most of the handbrake components are located.
Step 3. Let the vehicle warm up
Wait outside the cabin while the engine remains running. You have to let it warm up and produce the heat necessary to melt the ice under the body.
Step 4. Try to release the handbrake again
If it is still icy, give the heat more time and / or seal the open spaces in the front and rear of the machine (this second alternative is very useful in case there are a lot of gusts of wind). Press the accelerator pedal a little to increase the heat making the engine work harder.
Leave the door open as you press the accelerator and then immediately get out of the cockpit. If you have any problems with the exhaust system or have completely blocked the gas evacuation spaces, you run the risk of filling the car with carbon monoxide, which is potentially deadly
Step 5. Disassemble the "tunnel"
When the ice has melted, then remove the walls you built around the sides to create a "hot chamber" under the hood.
Step 6. Air the cockpit before getting behind the wheel
Leave all windows open and turn the fan on to maximum to try to eliminate any buildup of carbon monoxide before driving; remember that it is a lethal gas.
Part 4 of 7: Preparing to Replace the Faulty Handbrake Cable
Step 1. Purchase the new cable at an auto parts store
This piece sometimes corrodes or fills with dirt and grease; when this happens, the parking brake locks and does not work as it should. The best solution is to change the cable.
Step 2. Park the car on firm, level ground
It is important that the machine does not sink or move while on the jack or jacks.
Step 3. Remove the hub caps from the wheels you plan to work on
Read the manual to find out which wheels are connected to the parking brake system and, if these have studs, remove the studs with a wrench or screwdriver.
Step 4. Loosen the nuts with a cross wrench or a hydraulic impact wrench
It is important to remember to unscrew or loosen the nuts before lifting the vehicle; in this way, the same weight of the machine keeps the tires steady, preventing them from turning dangerously while you work on them.
Step 5. Lift the car
When the nuts or bolts have been partially unscrewed, you need to lift the car in order to remove the wheel. As previously described, these operations must be carried out on a flat surface, made of concrete or other hard material. Here are some key details to consider when lifting a vehicle:
- The manual indicates the lever points in which to insert the jack;
- The most common method of lifting a car is to use a hydraulic jack or jack;
- You should use jacks to stabilize the car;
- If you have access to a hydraulic lifting platform, you can save a lot of time.
Step 6. Remove the wheels
At this point, the nuts should be loose enough that you can unscrew them completely by hand; if not, remove them with the cross wrench or the hydraulic impact wrench. Once all the nuts and bolts have been extracted, you can remove the wheel from its base; store it under the car as an additional safety measure in case the jack fails.
Step 7. Remove the hub cap
The center of the hub itself is located and you can detach it by simply levering it; this allows you to expose the stop nut.
Step 8. Pull out the split pin
There is a metal pin at the front of the stop nut that prevents it from loosening. Remove this fastener by straightening the bent end and pulling it out of the hole with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver.
Step 9. Remove the stop nut
You can use a wrench or a compass to turn it counterclockwise (to the left) and loosen it. If it is blocked, lubricate it with WD-40 or similar product.
Step 10. Inspect the drum
Some of these come with small bolts that secure them to the hub; if this is also your case, you need to remove the bolts.
Step 11. Try to disassemble the drum
Pull it towards you in a straight line, you will probably have to sway it slightly to move it; if you feel that it is stuck and won't come off, you should:
- Check that you have removed all the fixing bolts;
- Make sure the drum is not caught in the logs.
Step 12. Retract the logs
This step is only necessary if the drum is stuck in it. You have to look behind the backplate (the steel support that the brake components are mounted on) for a rubber plug. By removing this cap you have access to the log adjustment screw; use a flat head screwdriver or a specific bar to retract the logs.
- The adjustment screw is designed to automatically bring the logs into the tensioned position, therefore it is not easy to loosen; if you are having difficulty turning or adjusting the drum, you are moving in the wrong direction.
- When you have retracted the logs, you can take the drum apart and continue with the work.
Part 5 of 7: Remove the Cable
Step 1. Remove the return springs
They are springs fixed to the block, to its anchorage and which keep the system under tension; when you release the pressure on the brake pedal, they return the shoes to their original position. To disassemble them, use the rounded part of the brake tool that has a small slot on it. Place the rounded part on the anchor pin (the nipple to which the spring is attached) and turn it until the slot engages the spring; afterwards, you just need to twist and extract the spring itself.
Step 2. Remove the retaining rings that hold the shoes in place
Proceed by gently grasping the edge of a ring with a pair of pliers, push it in, and then twist it until you can pull it off.
Step 3. Remove the stumps
At this point, you shouldn't have any problems unhooking them from the support plate; on the bottom of the blocks there should be another spring which is no longer under tension and which you can therefore remove without difficulty.
Step 4. Remove the handbrake cable
One of the logs should be connected to this cable; to remove it, pull the spring back and slide the cable sideways away from the stump.
Step 5. Pull the cable out of the support plate
There is a hole in the plate for the cable to pass through, use a flat screwdriver to lower the tabs of the cable that hold it onto the plate and then pass it through the hole.
Step 6. Follow the path of the cable to the handbrake lever
Regardless of whether the parking brake is activated with a pedal or a hand lever, this element is connected to the cable. When you find the coupling point, use a flat head screwdriver to separate the cable from the retaining clips; now that it has been released at both ends, you can replace it.
Part 6 of 7: Install the New Cable
Step 1. Grease the replacement with grease
It is important that it is lubricated before installation to ensure proper operation.
Step 2. Join it to the handbrake lever
Connect the front end of the cable to the control element, sliding it into the same clips that held the old one.
Step 3. Extend the cable up to the support plate
Remember to connect it to the bodywork at all points indicated in the maintenance manual. The cable must be constantly subjected to the correct amount of tension to function properly. Insert the second end into the hole in the plate.
Step 4. Connect the new cable to the logs
Secure it by following the same procedures used to disassemble the old one backwards. Push the spring back and insert the cable into its housing on the log (it must look the same as the one you removed).
Step 5. Grease the support plate with grease
You must avoid that the shoes emit screeching noises and that they are subjected to excessive friction; for this reason, you must grease all exposed or contact parts of the plate.
Step 6. Put the bottom spring back on the bottom of the log
At the end of the spring there is a hook, while at the base of the log there is a slot: insert the hook into this slot.
Step 7. Mount the log in its place, resting it on the support plate
At this point, you need to worry about putting the first log back in its place; after aligning it, hold it steady until you have reinserted the stop ring.
Part 7 of 7: Reassemble the Various Elements
Step 1. Put the retaining ring of the first log back into place
Insert the spring combined with the ring over the small rod that protrudes from behind the block itself; put the ring over the spring, press it and rotate it until it locks into place.
Step 2. Attach the lower spring to the bottom of the second log
At this stage, you must also mount the second element, always starting from the spring on the base.
Step 3. Install the log in its place on the support plate
You need to align it with the spring adjustment lever.
Step 4. Attach the adjustable spring to the second log
Use the flat part of the brake tool to pry the spring, insert it into its housing and hook it into the top of the second shoe; by doing so, join the two logs.
Step 5. Fit the stop ring of the second log
Follow the same procedure you followed for the first: insert the spring first, then push and rotate the ring.
Step 6. Use two screwdrivers to stabilize the adjustment screw
This element allows you to change the position of the adjustable spring which, in turn, changes that of the shoes. Since the new blocks are thicker than the used ones, you have to adjust this screw taking into account the greater thickness. Use one screwdriver to push down on the automatic governor assembly and the other to turn the gear that loosens the screw.
Step 7. Put the drum in place
Slip it over the stump, making sure it rotates and has only a little friction. If the drum does not rotate, the shoes are too tight and you have to loosen them a little with the adjusting screw; if it turns too freely, the shoes are too loose and you have to tighten them, always with the adjusting screw.
Step 8. Insert all the bolts securing the drum to the hub
Some models are not equipped with these elements, but if your car has them, you must put them back in their place at this stage.
Step 9. Install the retaining nut and split pin
You must tighten the nut that holds the drum in place and also insert the metal pin through the hole provided, to prevent the nut from loosening.
Step 10. Put the protective cap on the hub
Just push it straight into place, making sure it fits properly.
Step 11. Refit the wheels
You should slide them over the pins until they rest against the support base; finally, tighten the nuts just enough to keep the tires steady while the car is still on the jacks.
Step 12. Remove the jacks and jack the vehicle down
Do this slowly with great care; you don't have to drop the car suddenly.
Step 13. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque value
When the weight of the machine is on the four tires, use the cross wrench or the hydraulic impact wrench to finish tightening the nuts, respecting the torque indicated in the maintenance manual.
Step 14. Add brake fluid as needed
Whenever you work on the brake system, you should also check the level of this fluid and top up if necessary.
Step 15. Check the handbrake
Before you get behind the wheel or park your car, you need to make sure that the parking brake is working properly. Activate the brake and engage the first gear (or in the case of an automatic gearbox set the "drive" mode). The brake should prevent the car from moving or otherwise offer strong resistance. Release the brake and make sure it no longer exerts any frictional power.
Advice
- If the outside temperature drops below 0 ° C for a long time and there is no safety risk, it is best to avoid applying the parking brake.
- When you park your vehicle, leave a gear engaged (if the transmission is manual) or shift the gear lever to the "P" position (if the transmission is automatic).
- If you park on a slope, rotate the tires towards the curb and vice versa if you park on a slope; in both cases, the front tires lean against the curb.
Warnings
- Minimize the time you spend inside your car with the engine running. When spaces under the vehicle are blocked, exhaust fumes can enter the engine compartment or escape from the exhaust system itself and reach the passenger compartment more easily, causing potential carbon monoxide poisoning. Before getting into the car that has been running at idle for a few minutes, ventilate the passenger compartment to eliminate any exhaust gas that has accumulated inside; carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless and potentially fatal gas by inhalation.
- Check that the exhaust pipe is not blocked and that gases are not trapped under the vehicle.
