Sometimes it's hard to tell if a cat you see on the street is stray, lost, or just walking around the neighborhood. It is even more difficult to decide what to do once you know that it is a lost animal that needs your help. While this may not be easy, it is really important to try to understand what kind of cat you are dealing with, as your actions and choices could save the life of an animal in great danger.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Identifying a Stray Cat
Step 1. Be proactive and carefully read any lost pet advertisements that have been posted in your neighborhood
Focus on descriptions of the cats that got lost around your home. This way, if you see a specimen that matches the description perfectly, you can dig deeper into the matter. Advertisements are posted in many places such as in bars, grocery stores and on telephone poles.
Step 2. Check for telltale signs of a stray cat near your home
Although it is not always possible to take a careful look at a scared or shy cat, you can "read" the signs around the house to get a better idea.
- Check to see if garbage bags are torn overnight.
- Check if there are any cats on the street at the time when most of the pets were brought home for the night.
- Watch out for cats that run away quickly after noticing you are watching them.
Step 3. Also check the behavior of your pets
They may have noticed the presence of a "stranger" well before you. Try to understand what they are looking at when they are at the window. The stray cat may have habits that your "little lookouts" may have detected; moreover, the presence of an intruder in your garden does not go unnoticed.
Step 4. Be especially careful of strays during the winter
The start of this season is perfect for finding out if there are any lost cats, since they are beginning to be desperate for food and that most pets do not venture too far outside. Be alert this season.
Look for fresh footprints in the snow; especially when temperatures are inclement, the majority of domestic cats stay indoors and the footprints appear immediately after a night snowfall. You may be able to follow the tracks to a den or under an arcade, for example, if you wake up early, before traffic clears them
Step 5. Learn to identify by appearance a domestic cat that lives outdoors, which is not lost and does not need your help
Some specimens have been used to being outside the home without running away. These are not difficult to recognize, because there are three characteristics that differentiate them from stray and feral cats:
They are well fed and their fur appears neat, soft and clean. Even the pads under the legs are soft, while those of cats that have lived outdoors for many weeks, whether stray or lost, are rather callused
Step 6. Monitor the behavior of the possible stray cat
A cat that is simply used to living outdoors is still friendly, should interact with people and, in some cases, may try to enter your home. However, remember that many pets are lively and may run away if they see you; for this reason a first "wild" reaction does not mean that you are facing a stray.
Step 7. Call the phone number that you can find on his collar if you are concerned that he is a stray despite the tag
Remember that many cats used to being outdoors often have a collar with a tag. If a veterinary clinic answers the number, you will need to leave them information and a way to contact you (the privacy law prohibits the health facility from giving you the owner's name and details). The vet will call the owner and let him know what you have reported. The owner could call you and pick up the cat if it gets lost, or let you know it's a domestic cat used to hanging around the neighborhood.
Step 8. Check if the animal is sterilized
Another clue that can help you distinguish a stray from a domestic cat is the fact that the latter is probably neutered or sterilized. Cats that haven't had an operation are more likely to wander around to find a mate and end up getting lost and stray.
A disproportionate number of strays are not neutered and it is easy to recognize these specimens, if they have their tails raised. Males have more puffy cheeks, tend to be stocky builds, and have shorter legs than males neutered before sexual maturity. Stray cats, which have been castrated as a measure of containment of the feline population, have one ear (usually the left one) popped to indicate this condition. Such specimens often have the physical constitution of an "whole" animal, even if they no longer are. A spayed female, domestic or stray, is more difficult to recognize, unless she has a popped ear, a tattoo or an obvious scar on her abdomen
Step 9. Learn the difference between a wild cat and a stray cat
If you see a cat in your garden, park, under a parked car or anywhere else, you need to figure out if it is a stray, a pet that is used to being outdoors or a wild one.. The latter is an animal that is not domesticated and is not used to contact with humans. A stray is a domesticated animal that has been lost. Unlike the domestic cat, which is well recognizable, it is difficult to distinguish a wild from a stray, but you can learn to observe some characteristic signs:
- The hair of a wild animal is better cared for than that of a stray, since the latter is not used to living outdoors and is in difficulty. Furthermore, the stray is poorly fed compared to the wild, as it is not a good hunter.
- If you start feeding a stray cat, it will likely begin to bond with you and may become your companion or quickly stop being afraid. a wild animal, on the other hand, will always remain shy. However, all strays can behave like wild cats, especially if they have been lost for a long time; their initial behavior alone may not be enough to distinguish them.
Part 2 of 5: Catching a Stray Cat
Step 1. Provide shelter, water, and catnip for a potentially stray cat
This may be able to keep the animal around as long as you are able to help it, since surely the cat will have noticed these elements even before you have seen it. Don't leave food outside your home until you are certain you have a stray in the yard, as you may attract wildlife or feed neighborhood pets (which may be eating a controlled diet).
Try to feed him by putting food outside the house very late in the evening and in an area that should only be accessible to the cat (for example, in a place with such a small entrance where larger wild animals cannot enter). The next morning, check if the food is gone. If the night temperature drops below freezing, you can pour some sardine oil over the croquettes
Step 2. Try to get close to the cat (if it is really stray)
You must check his tag to find out if he has been vaccinated against rabies and if there is a number to contact. Speak sweetly to the animal as you approach, you could also take food with a strong smell like tuna or dried liver with you. If the animal is shy, bend down to its level, reach out and call it in a friendly tone of voice.
- Try different tones, as some dogs respond better to high or low voices, you may even make some meows. In this way you are less frightening in the eyes of the animal, which may even think of letting itself be approached.
- Be very careful not to get bitten or scratched, even if you have the impression that you are dealing with a calm and relaxed cat. If he seems nervous, don't tempt fate. At best you will scare him and he will run away, but you may also harm him.
Step 3. See if you can catch him
If it is not possible for you to catch him or he does not wear a collar and tag, then you must try to trap him or call the local veterinary ASL or a cattery.
- Learn about the fate these organizations reserve for animals. Many animal shelters keep them briefly trying to give them up for adoption, but they may even close them if, by a certain date, no one claims them. The operators of these centers are not always in charge of capturing the cat.
- An animal rights association, on the other hand, could offer the cat a better prospect of life than the one it could lead on the road; it will be neutered so that it does not contribute to generations of feral cats and does not run the risk of starvation, injury or frostbite.
Step 4. Buy and install a non-lethal trap designed specifically for cats
You can find it in hardware stores for less than 100 euros, and some stray control centers can even lend it to you for free. Alternatively, you can ask some animal welfare associations or the veterinary ASL to do the work for you.
- Do not try to trap the animal with improvised objects, such as a blanket or a net, there are many chances that the cat will manage to escape and that you will both come out injured.
- Cover the movable plate and the metal mesh bottom of the cage with newspapers, in this way the animal will not instinctively avoid walking on it. Do not attach the movable plate to a very sensitive release mechanism, otherwise the cat may trigger it too early and escape. It is better to try again later than to fail, as you will only have one chance.
- As bait, you can use canned herring (not pickled), mackerel or sardines, because the preservation oil gives off a strong odor even in very cold weather. Do not overdo the amount of food, as it could cause trouble once the trap is set; a captured cat often panics and may even get stuck in fear - both of which could cause him to vomit.
Step 5. Check the trap often but discreetly
Make sure the cat can't see you if it's not used to your presence. You may scare him at the least opportune moment; check the cage as often as you can.
When it is very cold, cover the cage with a sheet or towel and then pile a lot of snow on the structure to help keep the cat warm and calm once it is caught
Step 6. If you can't get your cat in a day or two, change your approach
Time permitting, deactivate the trap and accustom the cat by placing food near it. Try to be constant in the time you feed it and then throw away the leftovers, so that there is no food available until you bring it. Each time, move the bowl closer and closer to the trap.
- The cat will often come to eat when it gets dark or at sunset. Allow him to eat near the cage and, subsequently, inside it when it is deactivated.
- Cover the cage with a cloth you've sprinkled with feline pheromones so that the stray feels like a safe place.
- When it has gotten used to eating in the cage, prime it again.
Step 7. Decide what to do with the cat once it has been captured
If you have decided not to keep it, before trapping it, make arrangements with the veterinary ASL or animal welfare association to come and get it. In this case, place the trap in a quiet, dark room until the operators come. Make sure that the cat does not have to wait too long before the organization you contacted comes to retrieve it, because it is a very stressful period for the animal.
Step 8. Handle a stray cat you meet far from your home differently
If you find a cat while you are driving and cannot catch it, signal other drivers to slow down. If the animal appears injured and you cannot or do not want to move it off the road, make sure that traffic avoids it. Be very careful not to hurt yourself or cause an accident. If there is no traffic, you could wrap the hit cat lying on the ground in a cloth or pillowcase and remove it from the street. Be very careful not to get bitten or scratched.
- Be prepared to always keep a pet carrier or pillowcase in the car in case you encounter a stray or lost animal during your travels. Learn how to use a cat bag. A towel sprayed with calming pheromones is very useful in these situations, and you can use it to cover the carrier once you get your cat in the car.
- Immediately take the injured cat to the vet or to an association that deals with abandoned animals. Remember that most veterinary clinics don't have the funds to treat ownerless animals for free, so you'll have to pay the fee out of your own pocket. Veterinary emergency rooms are an exception, open 24 hours a day, which are often supported by animal welfare associations for these cases. Call the health facility in advance and make sure they can treat the cat before wasting precious time moving from one clinic to another. Shelters for stray animals and other private non-profit associations often have a veterinary team always available to take care of injured animals, and will work to get them adopted later. They may be your best bet for providing emergency medical care to a cat that has been in a very serious accident.
Part 3 of 5: Caring for a Stray Cat
Step 1. Remember that the foundling will do anything to escape, he will writhe, bend over and try to bite and scratch you with all his paws
Be extremely cautious and use thick gloves when you have to hold it. It is worth getting help from someone who knows how to handle cats.
Step 2. Grab a stray cat with great caution
This action is not recommended unless you are experienced in handling and handling very nervous and irritable cats. In theory, you should throw a blanket, a thick towel or pillowcase on the animal and then collect the "bundle". If you have no alternative but to use your bare hands to place your cat in the carrier, then try to be cautious, calm and alert.
- The cat's claws are pointing forward, so try to catch it from the hindquarters. Grab him by the scruff with your dominant hand making sure you have a firm and firm grip. This is more difficult with obese or non-neutered males, as there is less skin on the neck. With the other hand, immediately push down the cat's back until you are able to move it slowly to grab both of its hind legs. You can also try to grab his paws immediately, but you may miss the mark.
- Extend your arms as far as you can, lift the cat and place it in the carrier with the butt forward. The cage should be placed in a vertical position, so as to let the cat enter from above and quickly close the flap. Hold the door of the carrier firmly with one hand and support the bottom with one leg until the safety is closed.
Step 3. Set up a safe, quiet space for your cat to rest and live while you consider what to do with it
Get ready to have a guest. If you plan to keep it a few days while you are looking for its master, then set up the "safety room". It should be an escape-proof, quiet, unused and easy-to-clean room, even better if almost completely empty. Completely closed bathrooms and porches are an excellent solution.
- The only furniture that should be present is a comfortable chair for you, where you can sit to accustom the cat to your presence, a quiet but not inaccessible hiding place for the cat (the carrier is fine), water and a litter box. You can also add toys and a scratching post, although the animal may be too stressed to use them; also a window in the room would be appreciated.
- Don't give him food, unless you are present in the room. Bring your own food and, if your cat allows it, sit down while he eats. Food is the best way to build trust.
Step 4. Keep him in isolation from other pets in the house
Your security room should not allow any access to other animals which, in theory, should not even be able to smell the odor of the intruder from under the door, since some diseases can also be transmitted in this way. You should also use different clothes to wear just to get closer to the stray area, because you could become a vehicle of contagion (viruses or parasites) especially for other domestic cats. Always wash your hands and exposed skin areas very carefully after leaving the security room.
Step 5. Be very careful when releasing your cat from the trap or kennel in the room
Wear hand and face protection, take the trap into the room and place it with the opening away from you, so that the cat exits to its new space and hiding place. Some specimens will immediately run to the new shelter, but others will try to escape the room. Remember that they are very fast animals and may jump on you to reach the door, so keep it closed. Be cautious as the cat may also attack you. If he keeps his ears flattened, shows his sclera or has dilated pupils, keeps a ready-to-strike attitude by crouching or hunched over, "flex his muscles", hisses and growls as he slowly moves towards you with his head lowered, know that I am all signs that you need to leave the room.
Step 6. Let the cat calm down for a couple of hours
Once he is relaxed, he calmly enters the room with some food and a camera. Look closely at the animal and try to take a nice picture of it, so you can immediately start searching for its family.
Step 7. Respect the cat's pace for all future interactions with you
Don't force him out of hiding and be touched if you find he is scared. Allow him to eat alone if he is not in your presence, but make sure he realizes that you are bringing him the food.
Establish a regular schedule so she knows you're coming so she'll be less afraid of you. It will also begin to associate your presence with food. Sit in the chair and read quietly for a few minutes. Try to be as less scary as possible: move slowly, try to "make yourself small" by staying a little crouched, avoid eye contact, close your eyes and pretend to sleep. Be silent or speak very softly
Step 8. Attempt to touch the cat when it is used to you and the room
This is an expression of trust and indicates that the animal is taming itself; it is still a risky move, especially if the cat was a wild animal. Wear leather gloves as a precaution, but be aware that they could scare the cat, especially if they are very bulky and you've never worn them before.
- Do not attempt this unless you are able to interpret the cat's body language; do not tempt fate by ignoring the alarm signals that the animal sends you (check its pupils, ears, tail and the position of the shoulders, especially if it is still curled up in its hiding place).
- Start by slowly reaching out and placing an irresistible treat next to the cat. Try to put his food as close as possible before he starts to curl up, growl, or show a threatening attitude. Don't throw food at him and don't stretch your fingers. Repeat the action bringing the delight as close as possible. You can also try to let him sniff the hand. Once it has done so, withdraw it.
Step 9. Look for signs that the cat is ready to be touched
When doing this, be very cautious and pay attention to any signs of an adverse reaction. At this point, most strays will allow you to pet them without being aggressive, or give you a warning signal. You will notice different levels of warning: the cat may hiss until it growls (or vice versa) and you may even try to ignore a hiss if you find that it does not turn into a more aggressive sound.
- Sometimes, physical contact immediately makes your intentions clear to the cat and instantly reminds them of how great it is to be a house cat. Otherwise, the cat will eventually get used to being touched and will enjoy being stroked after several successful attempts.
- Cats that have been mistreated or seriously injured are unpredictable, especially if you touch them in a sensitive spot, so move with caution.
- Some specimens like to be scratched near the ear or under the chin, but they hate being touched on the base of the tail or vice versa. For starters, the safest place is the shoulders or any other area your cat rubs on you first.
Step 10. Determine if you have caught a stray
A specimen that allows itself to be touched within 2-3 weeks of short interactions in the safety room is likely a lost cat that was previously tamed and can be tamed again. If, on the other hand, you've found a real feral cat and it doesn't become friendly within a couple of weeks, don't attempt to tame it. This animal is not used to interacting and living with humans and will be much happier if it lives outdoors with due attention.
You should address all of his veterinary needs before releasing him (including vaccines and neutering). You can try to reintroduce the cat into domestic life at a farm (asking permission from the farmer, though!), Or at a controlled colony of feral cats. You can also consider providing them with food, water, and shelter indefinitely. Domestic cats are not used to surviving freezing winters, while wild cats need extra care from humans, including a source of non-frozen water (a bowl of warm water)
Part 4 of 5: Finding the Owner of a Stray Cat
Step 1. Talk to the neighbors and tell them about the cat
Perhaps they know the pets in the neighborhood and could contact the owner. You may even be lucky enough to meet your foundling's family directly.
Step 2. Take your cat to the vet to check his identity chip
In Italy it is not mandatory to insert a subcutaneous microchip to cats, but some owners do it for safety. It's worth a try.
In addition, you should still take the animal to the vet for a general checkup, especially if you have noticed abnormal symptoms or behavior
Step 3. Immediately contact a kennel or the veterinary ASL
The first thing the home owner did was to look for the cat at a shelter or public animal care facility. In this way he was able to make sure that his four-legged friend was not there and was able to view the list of discovery notifications. The operators of the shelter will also provide you with all the necessary information on how to deal with the stray.
Step 4. Post announcements in pet stores, veterinary clinics, and anywhere else possible
The most effective flyers carry the word "FOUND" with the largest possible characters, so that it occupies the entire width of the sheet. You should also put a photo of the cat's face: in this way you will attract the attention of those who have lost a similar cat.
- Your contact details should be written in a very small font, so only those who are really interested take the time to stop and read the number.
- Do not add the cat's full-length photo or other details, or anyone can describe and claim it as their own. There may be people who are not the real owners and who have cruel intentions.
- It is a good idea to give general references to the whereabouts, as they could be a clue to the real owner or his friends, especially if he is not far from his home.
Step 5. Read the announcements in the local newspaper in the “lost pets” section
You can also publish one yourself in the "found" section, sometimes they are free. State that you have found a stray and add little information just like you would with the flyer, in this case be even more sparse with your personal details.
Provide a very simple description, such as: "Found black and white cat, master calls to identify". Do not give any other details, the real owner will describe it to you
Step 6. Anyone who shows up to claim the cat, ask questions to see if they are telling the truth
The real owner of the animal should be able to tell you the sex, age, color of the pads of the legs, the tip of the tail, the belly and so on. If the cat has been with you for some time, ask the person how long the cat has been lost.
Step 7. Evaluate whether the owner is a responsible person
Would you hand over a child to irresponsible parents or would you call social services? As you try to figure out if this is the cat's real family over the phone, you can enter key questions such as: “Is the cat neutered? How old is he? How long has it been lost?”. Carefully weigh the answers and you will know if this person has allowed their pet to reach sexual maturity and to roam without spaying it. You can also request the vaccination and health status booklet, or ask the veterinarian to contact you. The vet book often includes a description and photo of the cat and is perfect proof of ownership.
Responsible owners will be happy that you are so scrupulous and attentive to the safety of their pet and will be happy to give you all the necessary information. The irresponsible ones, on the other hand, may never have vaccinated the cat. In this case, it may be time to involve the animal rights association or the veterinary ASL. Tell the owner that he can retrieve the cat at the animal shelter. Take the cat to the agreed shelter, but communicate your concerns to the operators by leaving your name and phone number. It is hoped that they know how to take the right precautions and decisions, for example they could force the owner to have the cat sterilized and vaccinated before returning it to him
Part 5 of 5: Adopting a Stray Cat
Step 1. Try to find the owner of the cat once you have safely captured it
If you want to adopt the cat, in case no one claims it, then know that the law requires you to advertise the discovery and wait for a defined time. Even if you really want to keep the cat, do your best to find its family of origin. Remember that if it was your pet, you would like it to be returned to you.
Step 2. Wait a month before stopping your searches
If no one claims the cat after 30 days, return to the animal shelter where you notified the find and decide whether to adopt it or leave it at the shelter.
Step 3. Have the specimen spayed or neutered, subject it to various tests for the most common diseases and remember to have it vaccinated before allowing it to come into contact with other cats living in your home
Most stray cats are still sexually active. Domestic cats often get lost precisely because they are not neutered or spayed, as they are more likely to roam and wrestle with other animals.
- This is also the only way to be sure not to be invaded by continuous litters.
- Your vet can tell you which tests your furry friend should undergo and which vaccines to give them. Make sure other animals are also fully vaccinated.
Step 4. Be satisfied with yourself because you have helped a scared and hungry cat by offering it safe shelter
You saved him from living a harsh existence on the road he is not used to and where he would have little chance of survival.
Advice
- If you want to feed him, offer him small but frequent meals of canned food or tuna diluted with water. Stray cats are often dehydrated and the addition of water allows them to replenish fluids. That's why some look dirty and have shaggy fur: they can't take care of their fur because they don't drink enough water. Offering a cat a "soup" quickly improves its health and appearance. During the day, put a bowl of croquettes outside, the cat will grow fond of you, especially if it is stray.
- Remember that cats carry some diseases such as feline immunodeficiency (FIV) and feline leukemia (FELV). These can be passed on to other cats and cause serious health problems. Before welcoming a cat, you should make sure of the health of the ones you already own! This means protecting them from stray specimens and vaccinating them regularly.
- Feral and stray cats are susceptible to various diseases if they are not vaccinated and dewormed. Some typical symptoms include: runny and watery eyes, coughing and sneezing, difficulty in breathing and noisy breathing, sunken eyes, bulging bones and thinness, dry and flaky skin, alopecia, vomiting, diarrhea, refusal of water and food, difficulty moving or being unable to take more than a few steps. Any of these signs indicate that the cat needs immediate veterinary attention.
Warnings
- If you take your cat to a cattery and no one claims it, know that it could be put down. If you don't want this to happen, be sure to take him to a shelter where euthanasia is not practiced. Encourage people you know who already own a kitten to adopt a second or third cat, so that you can offer a home for pets that would otherwise be euthanized. Perhaps you yourself have only one cat. Most cats love to have a little company and, at times, the presence of a third can balance the coexistence between two animals that do not get along very well (for example a playful third cat in a couple where only a specimen loves to fight, could relieve some pressure from the quieter "victim").
- If the cat that bit you does not have the tag, contact your doctor immediately; it may be advisable to have an anti-rabies injection. Try not to do anything that could cause the animal to bite you, for example do not try to grab it or hold it if it shows fear or aggression. If you managed to catch him and he is now safely in a room, keep him in a carrier or in that room as he should be tested for anger. This disease is 100% fatal to humans, and a cat bite should not be taken lightly unless you are certain that it is a vaccinated animal and has not come into contact with wildlife.
