How to Seal the Bathtub: 10 Steps

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How to Seal the Bathtub: 10 Steps
How to Seal the Bathtub: 10 Steps
Anonim

A bathtub without the necessary precautions will cause seepage into the walls and very expensive damage to repair. For this, it needs to be well insulated.

Steps

Caulk a Bathtub Step 1
Caulk a Bathtub Step 1

Step 1. Examine the contact point between the tub and the wall

Clean up residual traces of old insulation, mold and soap, but be careful not to scratch the surface of the tub. Clean with denatured alcohol - isopropyl alcohol contains an oil (to prevent the skin from drying out) that leaves a residue and should not be used for cleaning.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 2
Caulk a Bathtub Step 2

Step 2. Use a special bathtub sealer

There are of different types and colors; those with a higher amount of silicone cost more. The silicone mastic for bathroom and kitchen also has an anti-mold inside.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 3
Caulk a Bathtub Step 3

Step 3. Put masking tape on both sides of the area you want to treat, with the edges where you want the insulation layer to form

This is a technique used by professionals to achieve an even layer. A few millimeters from one side to the other are enough.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 4
Caulk a Bathtub Step 4

Step 4. Load the sealant into a spray gun

Cut the applicator tip using a sharp knife. The opening must be large enough for a drop to form, and not too small for the sealant to appear under strong pressure. Most of the tubes have a thin seal inside to prevent the product from hardening. Pierce this seal with a sharp object.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 5
Caulk a Bathtub Step 5

Step 5. Keep the gun pointed at a basket, pull the trigger and let the sealant fill the tip

The product should slide out, without splashing or dripping. Release the trigger lock to release the pressure inside the tube.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 6
Caulk a Bathtub Step 6

Step 6. Put the tip in place

It should be held slightly above the surface, almost in contact. As soon as you press the trigger, check the output of the insulation and with a continuous movement move the gun along the edge to form a uniform wire. Before it finishes, quickly release the trigger and then press again to continue creating an even layer along the entire edge and don't stop until you reach the corner.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 7
Caulk a Bathtub Step 7

Step 7. Repeat for each side

Caulk a Bathtub Step 8
Caulk a Bathtub Step 8

Step 8. When you stop, remember to release the trigger to release the pressure inside the tube or the sealant will continue to come out

Caulk a Bathtub Step 9
Caulk a Bathtub Step 9

Step 9. Flatten the sealant between the pieces of tape by pressing your fingers into the corners as you advance, and remove the excess

Keep some paper handy to dry your fingers if you need them.

Caulk a Bathtub Step 10
Caulk a Bathtub Step 10

Step 10. Remove the tape before the sealant forms a film

The layer should look clean and even, but you may need to make other minor adjustments with your fingers. Let it dry for 24-36 hours before exposing it to water and humidity.

Advice

  • Keep a large enough garbage can nearby to keep the rubbish and avoid spilling the silicone.
  • To stop the product from flowing out of the gun completely, unlock the plunger each time you put it down.
  • If you do not use the entire tube of product, you can close it again using a piece of wood and adhesive tape or plastic. However, it will still be usable for a short time.
  • After removing the adhesive tape, flatten the edges close to where the tape was, so that they are level with the surface, otherwise dirt will accumulate.
  • When flattening the sealant, start at one corner and go half or three-quarters forward. Then go to the opposite corner and come forward. As soon as you meet the already worked part, slightly raise the tool you use, to avoid bumps.
  • The insulation must fill the space between the tub and the wall and must be in contact with the tub and wall evenly along its entire length or there may be infiltrations.
  • If you have tiles in the internal corners, always use silicone instead of plaster, because this will crack causing infiltration in the corners; the sealant, on the other hand, remains flexible even when dry. If you have large and smooth joints, you can find product of the same color as the plaster, although this is certainly not the best solution for the parts around bathtubs and showers. For similar jobs remember to use a product with a certain amount of silicone - or pure silicone.
  • To get the silicone off your hands, you can rub them with a plastic bag. It cleans right away and leaves your fingers smooth and dry to get the job done.
  • Fill the tub three-quarters full so it fits as the silicone dries in 24 hours. Otherwise, the tub will collapse once you are inside, pressing on the edges and causing possible cracks and breaks.
  • You can flatten the sealant with your fingers, a teaspoon, or even an ice cube.
  • You can clean using paper towels and other household cleaning products.
  • Use a paper cup half filled with lukewarm water, add 2-3 drops of dish detergent and stir gently to dilute it without bubbles. Using this water to wet your fingers will make the cleaning process easier and you will not have silicone attached.
  • Place the gun on a rag to catch any drops.
  • Do one wall at a time because the silicone forms the film quickly.
  • Make sure you remove all traces of old insulation and mold before putting on new insulation.
  • Silicone insulators are very sticky and do not come off easily. For this it is best if you wear latex gloves.
  • It is a similar process to that of decorating a cake.
  • A flat head screwdriver works great for removing the old product, but be careful not to damage the surface underneath.
  • A good tip for following a straight line without using adhesive tape is to buy molding and cut three pieces of the exact length and width of the tub. Put it on the tub and spread the tape on the wall and molding. Then turn the molding up against the wall and tape the tub by pressing it against the molding as you advance. This way you will have two perfectly straight lines of ribbon.
  • Persistent mold stains can be eliminated by soaking cloths in water and bleach and passing them over the areas to be treated. Leave the cloths in place until the stains disappear. After removing them, let everything dry well before starting to redo the insulation. It is something that can be done even days before work, when the old insulation is still there.
  • To prevent the tape from sticking too long and leaving unwanted edges in the silicone, cut the tape into sections, one per wall. This way you can work on one section at a time without interfering with neighboring parts of the tape. Always be very careful not to scratch the tub.

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