Hibernation for cold-blooded animals is called "hibernation"; many species of aquatic turtles and tortoises that live in the temperate climate hibernate during the winter. Captive-bred specimens do not need to spend the cold season in a quiescent state to survive, although an annual hibernation period can increase the chances of breeding success. Research your specific pet and follow the guidelines in this article to prepare and care for it safely during hibernation. However, you should not force a sick turtle to hibernate; be very careful not to accidentally drown, freeze, or starve her.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Deciding whether to Let Her Hibernate
Step 1. Find out if your turtle species hibernates
Generally, those that come from tropical climates near the equator do not go into hibernation; the further they move away from the equatorial line, the stronger is this need. Before proceeding, research the specific needs of your specimen. The species that usually hibernate are listed below:
- Terrapene Carolina (also known as Box Tortoise);
- Russian (or Horsfield's) tortoise;
- Greek (or Moorish) tortoise;
- Marginata tortoise;
- Land tortoise (or Hermann's);
- Desert Tortoise;
- Gopher tortoise;
- Texas tortoise;
- Sculpted marsh turtle;
- Spotted Marsh Turtle;
- Red-eared turtle;
- Snapping turtle.
Step 2. Take her to the vet to check her health
Only healthy animals hibernate. During this dormant phase, the immune system slows down considerably and if the turtle is even slightly sick, it risks dying during or shortly after the dormant period. Monitor the reptile closely for signs of disease. even if you don't see anything unusual, still take her to the doctor for a visit. Among the signs of the disease you can note:
- Swollen eyes
- Secretions from the nostrils;
- Swollen ears
- Weight loss;
- Difficulty in breathing, visible due to the fact that he often opens his mouth;
- Aquatic specimens stay out of the water during the night;
- Abscesses or other signs of parasitic infestations
- Carapace wounds or rot
- Bad smell, inflammation, or leakage of fluids from under the tail
- Manifestation of the following signs of the oral cavity: the appearance of small blood spots, red-purple color of the mucous membranes, the presence of a yellow cheese-like substance.
Step 3. Learn about the modalities of hibernation
If your little friend, regardless of whether she is earth or water, lives indoors, most experts recommend keeping her indoors and active during the winter; if it lives outdoors, you should keep it indoors during the cold season, in case its natural habitat is not safe. Aquatic specimens can hibernate outdoors, as long as they are safe and the water does not freeze; the terrestrial and semi-aquatic ones can instead hibernate indifferently indoors or outdoors. If your turtle generally lives outdoors, it is able to react to changes in temperature and length of days; he therefore instinctively knows where and when to prepare for hibernation. If you live indoors, you have to artificially reproduce these changes.
- Check with local animal welfare organizations or ask your vet if you don't know how to properly care for your pet.
- Most box turtles hibernate between October and November and stay there until almost the end of February or early April, in temperate climates such as Europe or the United States.
- Most of these reptiles remain dormant for 2-4 months; some species that live in certain geographic areas stay there for up to 6 months, although this time is not necessary. Ask your vet for specific information and advice for your specimen.
Part 2 of 5: Prepare her for Hibernation
Step 1. Weigh it
You need to keep track of your weight throughout your hibernation period to find out if you are losing weight healthily or if you are dangerously hungry. Weigh it before the start of the process, to have a reference value and then continue to monitor it every 2 or 3 weeks.
- Always use the same scale throughout hibernation.
- Use a digital scale for animals weighing less than 2.5kg to get accurate data.
Step 2. Give her vitamin A during the summer
Before the turtle starts fasting, you need to provide it with a large amount of vitamin A, as its supplies are greatly reduced during hibernation. In early summer (12-16 weeks before the process), he begins to add foods rich in this precious element to his diet; it is sufficient to substitute them for those he usually eats. Some excellent sources of vitamin A are:
- For land turtles: carrots and pumpkins;
- For the aquatic ones (non-carnivorous): green leafy vegetables such as kale, broccoli, mustard, green cabbage, dandelion; orange-colored vegetables such as alfalfa, pumpkins, carrots, sweet potatoes; orange-colored fruits such as melon and peaches;
- For aquatic turtles (carnivorous): fish and mouse pups;
- If your specimen is already getting a large amount of vitamin A, continue feeding it normally.
Step 3. Increase your fiber intake
Towards the end of summer (last days of July or 6-8 weeks before he hibernates), replace some of his usual food with other high-fiber foods.
- Good sources of fiber suitable for the two varieties of turtles (terrestrial and aquatic) are alfalfa and timothy hay, herbs that are rich in this element.
- If your reptile is already eating a high-fiber diet, continue feeding it as usual.
Step 4. Start reducing food 2-6 weeks before hibernation begins
Many specimens die because their owners put them into hibernation when they still have undigested food in their gastric tract. You must prevent your little friend from going into a dormant state if she has eaten in the last month; in this case, you need to delay the onset of hibernation. Ask your vet for more details on how and when to start the fasting process for your species of turtle.
- Undigested food can kill the hibernating animal in two ways: it can decompose, causing deadly internal bacterial infections, or develop large masses of gas that cause pressure on the lungs and suffocate the animal. If in doubt, consult your veterinarian.
- The digestive system of turtles is largely controlled by temperature.
- The terrestrial ones can take up to 3-6 weeks to digest completely. The smaller ones (less than 1 kg) take 3 weeks; those of medium size (1-1.5 kg) 3-4 weeks, while the larger ones (reaching 2-3 kg) need 4-6 weeks.
- Aquatic turtles need 2-3 weeks; a small specimen, such as the box turtle, takes only 10-14 days to digest.
Step 5. Keep your little friend hydrated
During the fasting phase, soak her every day for 20-30 minutes in deep water up to her chin; also make sure she always has access to clean water from now until the end of all hibernation. This way, she can more easily expel toxins from the digestive tract and keep herself properly hydrated.
Step 6. Lower the temperature before hibernation begins
The temperature affects its metabolism, which is why hibernation begins with the arrival of cold; make sure the animal has no more food in the body before proceeding to the next step. Make sure that the temperature does not drop below 10 ° C.
- For the aquatic turtle: starts one week before hibernation. Bring the temperature to 18 ° C for 2-3 days and then gradually reduce it to 10 ° C or slightly less.
- For the tortoise: starts 4 weeks after hibernation. Gradually reduce the temperature to 15 ° C over a week and then keep it around 13-15 ° C for three weeks so that the animal can completely digest the last meal.
- The maximum (hottest) temperature that allows hibernation to be triggered is 10 ° C; if your reptile is at this temperature, it can begin to hibernate.
Step 7. Determine where to let her hibernate
Most people who own a turtle use the refrigerator, but you need to be very cautious and be extremely careful; make sure your little friend is completely safe from predators such as mice, which can gnaw on hibernating land turtles.
- If you opt for an outdoor water source, make sure it doesn't freeze and is at least 40cm deep.
- If your specimen stays indoors, find a cold place in the house to put it; many people use a fridge, while others take the animal to the garage, basement or some room at room temperature.
- Find a place where the default temperature remains above 10 ° C. If the power fails, the animal escapes or another accident occurs, you must ensure the survival of the turtle, despite the change in temperature.
Step 8. Prepare the refrigerator if necessary
If you have chosen this option for hibernation, you must check the appliance and take care of the turtle carefully to prevent it from dying.
- Maintain adequate ventilation. The refrigerator is hermetically sealed and does not allow air circulation, so you have to do it yourself; open it at least 3 times a week for a minute or two.
- Measure the internal temperature. Put a thermometer to check for fluctuations and accuracy; if you notice many variations, fill the appliance with other elements, such as some water bottles, in order to keep the temperature more constant than the air alone.
- Choose a refrigerator that you don't use often during the day; by opening and closing the door with a certain frequency you make the temperature oscillate, as well as turning the light on and off.
Step 9. Check the turtle regularly
She may become less active, but she should still remain somewhat alert and responsive. If she is sick, apathetic, or you notice any other unusual signs, take her to the vet for a check-up; do not proceed with hibernation, as it could kill a sick animal.
Part 3 of 5: Creating a Hibernation Refuge
Step 1. Choose the boxes
The shelter for your turtle can be a small container where it can hibernate, safe from predators. You need two boxes: one about two or three times the size of the animal and the other just a few centimeters larger; the smaller one must stay inside the other, with a space of 3-5 cm on each side.
- The outer box should be of sturdy material, which cannot be gnawed by mice; use plywood, plastic or wood, but not cardboard.
- The turtle needs to be able to turn around a bit in the smaller box, but not to wander around too much.
Step 2. Prepare for insulation
This is a critical stage; you need some material to fill the space between the two boxes, once the small one is placed inside the other. This helps regulate the temperature and prevent the turtle from dying or coming out of hibernation too early.
The most suitable insulating material is polystyrene or packing foam; however, you can opt for other types of insulation for building or packaging. Eventually, well-compressed scraps of paper are also fine
Step 3. Add a thermometer
This is an essential element to monitor the temperature of the box; since you have to check it often, get a tool that you know how to interpret and use well.
- Most people prefer to use the classic model that reports maximum and minimum temperatures and which you can find at garden or hardware stores.
- Some turtle owners choose the one with an audible alarm that goes off when the temperature rises above or falls below a certain value.
Step 4. Assemble the box
Lay a layer of insulation on the bottom of the larger container and place the small one in the center, on top of the insulation itself. Add the rest of the material around the perimeter of the small box. Also put some other insulation material on the lid of the box, but don't forget to drill holes to ensure ventilation. Cover the bottom of the small box with substrate. Here are some possible choices:
- Coconut fiber (chopped coconut shell);
- Straw;
- Strips of newspaper;
- Peat;
- Moss;
- Specific substrate for reptiles, available in pet stores;
- Do not use material that contains fertilizers, fertilizers or other chemical additives.
- Check the substrate, to make sure it maintains the appropriate humidity for the species of turtle you have; for example, Terrapene Carolina needs nearly wet material.
- Turtles require very little oxygen during hibernation, but they cannot do without it anyway; make small holes for ventilation (less than a centimeter in diameter).
Part 4 of 5: Send the Hibernating Turtle
Step 1. Start the process
Make sure the turtle is not sick or injured and has no food in the digestive tract; give her easy access to water and check that the temperature is around 10 ° C. If even one of these characteristics is not respected, do not force the animal to hibernate; if all the requirements are met, put your little friend in the box. Place it in a cold place, which will remain cool throughout the period, except when you approach it to check.
- If the turtle hibernates outdoors, in the wild and not in a specially crafted container, make sure it does not drown or freeze. Remember that you must always have access to drinking water.
- If it hibernates outdoors, it likely tends to naturally bury itself in the bottom of a pond or nearby. The soil must be rich in sand or mud, to allow the turtle to dig to a depth of at least 40 cm and thus obtain the appropriate thermal insulation. If necessary, prevent the water from freezing by turning on a floating heater all winter.
- If the turtle on the outside does not hibernate, even though the weather has become freezing, or you see that it is swimming or continues to bask even when the others have disappeared, take it indoors; some specimens simply do not enter a dormant state, but they do not survive the winter if they remain outdoors.
Step 2. Check her physically every 1-2 weeks
You don't hurt her by picking her up when she is hibernating, but know that you could kill her through negligence; examine it no matter where it is, be it indoors or outdoors. Check her for any signs of infection, disease, or bad hibernation; also inspect the box for traces of urine, feces, or the presence of predators (mice).
- If the turtle has urinated or defecated during hibernation, if it has dry skin or the box is much more humid than normal, soak the animal for two hours in water at room temperature; the water level should not exceed the point where the carapace plastron welds to the dorsal shield. When finished, dry the creature thoroughly and put it back in the container, which you now need to place in a slightly colder place; perhaps the turtle was in too hot an area and became dehydrated.
- Signs of infection may include discharge, difficulty breathing, and changes in the skin or carapace. if you see any symptoms that worry you, call your vet.
- If the pet's skin is dry or the box is wetter than usual, soak the reptile in room temperature water for two hours.
Step 3. Maintain a temperature of 4.5 ° C
This is the ideal temperature for hibernation, although the turtle can also adapt to values between 1.5 and 7 ° C. Any lower temperature can cause permanent damage or even death; if, on the other hand, it is higher, the animal can consume all the fat that allows it to remain in hibernation and consequently it would wake up.
- Check the thermometer at least once a day, preferably several times; check the temperature every hour in very cold or hot times.
- If the temperature remains consistently low or high for several hours, change the location of the box and put it in another place with optimal conditions.
Step 4. Weigh the turtle
Every few days put it on the same scale you used before the process started and keep track of its weight throughout the hibernation. A healthy specimen should lose a maximum of 1% of its body weight for each month of hibernation. Here are some examples of optimal weight loss:
- A 1 kg turtle loses 10 g per month;
- A 1.5 kg turtle loses 15 g per month;
- A 2 kg turtle loses 20 g per month.
- If your little friend loses weight faster, you need to rehydrate her by placing her in shallow water at room temperature for two hours. Make sure the level is just below the horny structure between the plastron and the upper carapace. If you see that she continues to lose weight at too high a rate for more than a week, contact your vet.
- For example, a tortoise weighing 600g should lose 6g per month.
- Keep the table in which you wrote down the values for the next hibernation.
Part 5 of 5: Waking her up after Hibernation
Step 1. Remove the reptile from the cold environment
Before doing anything, check how long the animal should be hibernating; most species remain dormant for two to four months. Take the box, if you have decided to use it, and heat the turtle up to 15 ° C; soak it in water every other day.
Step 2. Increase the temperature
Keep the reptile at 15 ° C for two days and then raise the temperature to 18-20 ° C for two or three days; finally, it brings the turtle to a level of heat that does not allow hibernation (between 21 and 27 ° C).
- The awakening phase follows the same stages as hibernation, but in reverse and is characterized by a greater movement and level of activity; access to drinking water is still essential, even if the animal must still avoid eating.
- Maintain a warm environment. The temperature is a critical parameter for the metabolism of the reptile and too low ones can make the animal susceptible to diseases; use a heat lamp or focal light to warm the turtle when it is not active or not eating properly.
Step 3. Pay attention to hydration
Soak the animal for 20-30 minutes every other day, as you should have done for a long time; continues to provide him with constant access to drinking water, because he has to drink to expel all the toxins that have accumulated in the kidneys during hibernation. If he doesn't drink and hydrate, take him to the vet right away.
- Use a sink, tub, deep tray, or other suitable container to "bathe" your little friend.
- Turtles are able to absorb water through the anus; so putting them to soak is like allowing them to "drink".
Step 4. Feed her
Start offering her food two days after she's back to room temperature; feed her the same foods she was used to and give her time to go back to eating.
- Some specimens take weeks to resume normal eating patterns and males may only eat until after mating. However, if she vomits, shows symptoms of stomach pain or other illnesses and infections, take her to the vet right away.
- All turtles should start eating within a week of waking up; otherwise, the animal could be ill or in the process of getting sick. Take him to the vet right away.
Advice
- If in doubt, talk to a group of reptile and animal enthusiasts or your vet.
- Do thorough research about the species your pet belongs to before buying and caring for it.
- Make sure other family members know how to treat the reptile, to avoid mistakes or accidents.
- Be careful when handling the turtle to avoid getting bitten or scratched.
- Check that the temperature is adequate.
Warnings
- Go to the vet if you have any doubts about your little friend's health. There are many aspects of hibernation that can put you at risk and, without the proper precautions, could lead to death.
- Be careful not to drown her or freeze her to death.
- Remember to hydrate her often.
- Use a type of water that is safe for the turtle. Tap water is not always suitable for animal and human consumption! Check which minerals and chemicals are in the water before giving her home water or use filtered water.
