Beans are very popular legumes, which are often grown in vegetable gardens; most varieties are also suitable for home backyards, because it is possible to grow them in a very small space. The climbing species fall into this category, since they develop in height rather than in width; they are perfect to keep in the garden, because they are very nutritious, they represent an excellent source of fiber, calcium, iron, as well as vitamins A and C.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Prepare the Garden Area
Step 1. Define the ideal time for sowing
Like many other beans, even climbing ones should be planted directly outdoors in spring, when there is no longer the risk of frost; in most regions, this means in the middle or late spring, when the soil temperature reaches 16 ° C.
Almost all species are cold sensitive and do not tolerate frost, so it is important to plant them in late spring
Step 2. Choose the ideal location
Runner beans need a lot of sun to grow properly, so you need to choose a very exposed area throughout the day for maximum yield. However, avoid planting them near fennel, onions, basil, chard or cabbage; the plants that live well with beans are:
- Carrots;
- Strawberries;
- Cauliflower;
- Eggplant;
- Potatoes;
- Peas.
Step 3. Prepare the seedbed
The ideal soil for this cultivation must have a pH between 6 and 6, 5; it must also be well draining and rich in organic substances. Here's how to proceed with soil preparation:
- Mix well-draining soil, such as silt or clay, with aged compost.
- Balance compact soil such as clay by adding peat, manure, or shredded bark to facilitate drainage.
Step 4. Build a prop
Since runner beans grow tall, they need a support to lean on; it is easier to make it before sowing, to avoid possible damage to the plant or its roots. The best supports are trellises, tepees (conical or pyramid tents), poles or large cages such as those for tomatoes.
- Cages for tomatoes are on sale in major household or gardening stores;
- In these shops you can also find panels for the fences and the pyramid lattices;
- If you wish, you can make a tepee or pyramid support yourself by tying bamboo canes together.
Part 2 of 3: Planting and Growing Beans
Step 1. Inoculate the beans
Climbing ones, like most other types of legumes, also need nitrogen-rich soil to thrive; the simplest way to proceed is to introduce nitrogen fixing bacteria inside them, even before burying them.
- Soak the beans in hot water for 5 minutes, then drain them, place them on a damp towel and spread an inoculating powder over their surface just before proceeding with planting.
- One of the most common inoculants is Rhizobium leguminosarum, which you can buy at many home and gardening stores.
Step 2. Plant the beans
You can choose a distribution in rows, or bury the seeds in piles of earth; the method you choose depends largely on the type of garden, the support you have created and your personal preferences. Mounds are generally more suitable if you have opted for poles or teepees, while a row crop is better for trellis.
- If you want to plant them in mounds, use your hands or a spade to create small mounds of earth around the base of the supports. Each cluster should have a diameter of about 15 cm and a height of about 5 cm; in addition, they should be at least 75 cm apart from each other. Make holes in the soil 2-3 cm deep for each pile and put a bean in each hole; then cover the legumes with a little earth.
- If you choose row growing, use your hands or a spade to create long rows of soil spaced about 75cm apart. Make a hole 2-3 cm deep for each bean, taking care to keep a distance of 10 cm between one and the other; drop a bean into each hole and cover it with loose soil.
Step 3. Water regularly
During the period of active growth, such as when plants sprout and produce pods, beans need enough water to develop. Keep the soil evenly moist as soon as you plant the seeds and when you notice the first pods; provide at least 2.5 cm of water per week.
When the seedlings have sprouted but don't have pods yet, you can let the soil dry out between waterings
Step 4. Apply mulch when the first leaves appear
By doing this, you allow the soil to retain moisture, regulate the temperature and protect the seedlings; once the second pair of leaves has formed, spread an 8cm layer of mulch over the garden.
This remedy also prevents weeds from developing, which is very important because climbing beans have shallow roots that are unable to compete with weeds
Step 5. Remove the weeds regularly
As soon as they start growing in the same area as the beans, weed them out immediately by hand, to avoid damage to the roots of the legumes.
This is a crucial step during the six weeks following planting
Part 3 of 3: Collecting and Storing Beans
Step 1. Collect the legumes
It is possible to detach the first pods 50-70 days after sowing; if you harvest them every two days as they mature, the plants continue to produce them for several days or even weeks.
- The pods are ready when they are long, firm and crunchy; however, proceed before they fully develop and become pulpy inside.
- Collect them from dry plants to avoid the spread of bacteria; if necessary, wait until late morning or early afternoon so that the morning dew has evaporated.
Step 2. Eat fresh beans within four days
To make the most of their organoleptic properties, consume them the same day you harvest them or place them in the refrigerator for a few days; all those who do not plan to eat right away must be prepared for a long shelf life.
Fresh ones can be added raw to salads, sandwiches or other dishes; alternatively you can cook them
Step 3. Store excess beans
The best solutions are freezing and preserving in jars; to obtain the best results, prepare the legumes for these conservation techniques within a few hours of harvesting.
