Cymbidium orchids have been cultivated for thousands of years in China and today have become famous for home gardeners. Although many of the cymbidium species can grow over 1.5 meters in height, in temperate climates orchids usually need to be kept indoors for most of the year or moved in and out of the home daily. There is also the dwarf variety of cymbidium, small enough to grow on the windowsill and easier to manage.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Caring for Cymbidium Orchids (Flowering Season)
Step 1. Follow the advice in this section while the stem is still there
In the Northern Hemisphere, cymbidium orchids emit "flower stems" around February, bloom for 3-8 weeks, and then shed the last part of the flower stem in August. In the southern hemisphere this period runs from August to January.
Step 2. Keep orchids in indirect sunlight
Orchids thrive when exposed to many hours of sunlight per day, but can get burned if direct sunlight. An east or south facing window is a good choice for the northern hemisphere, while an east or north facing window is ideal for the southern hemisphere. If there isn't at least 4 hours of sunlight regularly, consider using full spectrum lamps to encourage growth.
Healthy leaves are light green or yellowish green. If they are light yellow or spotted, the plant gets too much sun. If the leaves are dark green, it receives too little light
Step 3. Expose the plant to the changes in temperature dictated by the alternation of day and night
Keep the plant in a temperate climate, but try to expose it to night temperatures as low as 5.5 degrees. Under ideal conditions, a sprouting plant should have night temperatures of 4-10 ° and daytime temperatures of 18-24 °. Once the plant has flowered, it can withstand the summer heat, but it should always be kept above 1.7 degrees.
Some cymbidium orchids are more hardy than others. While some sources point to the 5-10 range between USDA hardiness zones for plants, most orchids grow much easier in zones 9 and 10, where winter temperatures are mild enough to keep plants indoors. outside even at night
Step 4. Water regularly
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, by watering once a week for most of the flowering period. During the summer, you need to water every 3-5 days. During each watering pour the water until it comes out of the pot. If the water is not drained immediately, it may be time to repot the plant to prevent the roots from rotting.
- Rainwater or reverse osmosis water are good alternatives, especially if the tap water is hard. However, do not use water softened by other processes, as it may contain salts that damage the plant.
- Water early in the morning if possible so that the water on the leaves evaporates before night falls. Water left on the plant in cold night temperatures can increase the chances of infection.
Step 5. Apply a high nitrogen fertilizer
Even if you use a normally balanced fertilizer, more nitrogen can encourage the plant to produce larger, longer lasting flowers. Dilute a high nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 22-14-14 or 30-10-10 mix, to 50% water. Apply it according to the fertilizer instructions once every 10-14 days or use a slow-release fertilizer that only needs to be applied once or twice during the season.
Step 6. Support the growing stems with sticks
Once the flower stems have grown a few inches, tie a few sticks to prevent them from breaking and guide the buds upward. You can use twine, string or garden binding, and any type of stick or stick.
Do not use the sticks of other plants, they could transmit infections
Step 7. Prune only when the flower stem turns brown
Cymbidium flowers often fall off in spring, but they can also last until summer. Once all the flowers have fallen off and the stem is completely brown, cut it off at the base. For the rest of the growing season, the plant will focus on leaf growth.
When the cooler fall begins, go to the dormancy care section
Part 2 of 3: Caring for Cymbidium Orchids (Season of Dormancy)
Step 1. Follow these tips during fall and early winter
This section discusses cymbidium care in the season when there is no visible stem. This period usually lasts from August to January in the Northern Hemisphere, from January to July in the Southern Hemisphere.
Step 2. Keep orchids in a cool climate, especially at night
Cool night temperatures are recommended throughout the year for orchids, but are vital in the fall when the plant develops new flower stems indoors. The cold night temperature stimulates this development. The ideal temperature is around 12.8 °, but in this period the plant tolerates even temperatures as low as -1.1º for a few hours. During the day, temperatures can be milder, but the heat could damage its development.
Step 3. Reduce the amount of light
In the fall, move the plant to a place where it receives less sunlight, but not completely in the shade. This will prevent the plant from developing flower stems for the next buds. Choose a north-facing window in the northern hemisphere or a south-facing window in the southern hemisphere.
Step 4. Reduce the amount of water
During this time the plant does not grow visibly and does not need a lot of water. To keep the roots from rotting, a common problem with orchids, water only to moisten dry soil or even let the soil dry out between waterings.
Step 5. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer
Some gardeners use a balanced fertilizer all year round, but many find orchids respond better to different fertilizers at different times of the year. During dormancy, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as a 0-10-10 or 6-6-30 mix, which will encourage root and flower development in preparation for the growing season. Dilute the fertilizer to 50% and apply it according to the instructions, no more than once a month.
Part 3 of 3: Repot the Cymbidium Orchid
Step 1. Repot the cymbidium orchid every two to three years
Orchids prefer a small pot, so there is no need to repot them just because they have filled the pot. However, if the orchid has shoots hanging off the edge of the pot, it may be time to repot. If water stagnates on the surface rather than running through the soil, it may have deteriorated and need to be replaced. Repotting is usually only needed once every two to three years.
Step 2. Select a pot large enough for the plant
Orchids do well in small containers, with the edge of the pot 5-7cm from the roots. For young and small plants, use a pot with only 2.5cm of space.
- If you plan to divide the orchid plant, as described above, you will need two or more small pots, one per piece.
- Clay pots are preferred over plastic ones, because the porous material reduces the risk of water stagnating around the orchid's roots.
Step 3. Add a layer of gravel to the new pot (optional)
If you want to put the new pot on a saucer, it is recommended to spread a 2.5cm layer of gravel at the base of the pot. This will prevent excess water around the orchid roots and resulting rot. This can also help prevent sand or other soil components from escaping from the drain hole.
Step 4. Prepare a drainage potting mix to add later
You could buy a specific soil mix for cymbidium orchids from a nursery or make a mix yourself. A drainage mixture such as 40% orchid bark, 40% raw peat moss and 20% river sand is recommended. Medium orchid bark is suitable for smaller cymbidium orchids, while raw orchid bark is preferable for plants in larger pots of 15 cm in diameter.
Many gardeners have their own favorite blends, you may want to ask a local expert for advice. In a humid area, sand may not be needed to retain moisture
Step 5. Consider dividing large orchids
As orchids grow, they produce bulb-like organs at the base of the plant, called pseudobulbs. If these have formed a large cluster, you could divide the orchid into different parts and plant them separately. Each piece should include many roots and at least four bulbs with the leaves attached. If there are bulbs without leaves, called "retrobulbs", do not remove them, because they conserve a reserve of energy for the plant. You may be able to divide small orchids by hand, but larger ones often require the use of a knife.
- To reduce the risk of infection, sterilize your knife or scissors before dividing the orchid, put on disposable gloves, and work on a layer of newspaper. Change the gloves and newspaper and clean the knife again before moving on to another plant.
- You can also plant small pieces, but these can take two to three years to flower the first time.
Step 6. Transfer the orchid to the new vase
Use a sterilized knife if necessary to separate the orchid plants from the edge of the old pot. It often takes a lot of strength to pull an orchid out of the pot, because it grows close to the walls. Once the plant is detached, gently transfer it to the new pot.
If you are planting a part of an orchid, spread the roots evenly in the pot, but avoid breaking them
Step 7. Pour the soil mix onto the plant
Add the soil mixture to the plant until 1/3 of the bulbs are covered. Pressing the mixture down around the roots will provide more root support, but is not recommended if the mixture involves fibrous peat.
Step 8. Take precautions after repotting
Keep the newly repotted plant in a shaded area for the next few days while it adjusts to the new pot. Water the plant as usual. If you are growing orchid parts, keep them slightly drier than usual for a few weeks to encourage new root growth.
Advice
- There are dwarf species of the cymbidium that take up much less space.
- There are more than 40 species of cymbidium orchids. It can be helpful to look up information on the species you have chosen, especially if you have unexpected problems.
- Orchids are not demanding on humidity. However, if you live in a dry climate or keep orchids indoors in hot weather, it may be helpful to mist the plant's leaves every now and then or keep a gravel tray nearby in the water to increase the humidity in the air.
- Remove dust from the leaves of the plant whenever you notice it.
