Cauliflower is a versatile vegetable that can be consumed in many ways: in soups, stews, fried, steamed, in salads or absolute. However, as far as cultivation is concerned, it is a somewhat capricious plant because it requires scrupulous care if you want to harvest a truly delicious product when ripe. Read on to learn how to grow cauliflower with commitment and dedication.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Planting the Cauliflower
Step 1. Schedule planting in cold weather
Almost all varieties of cauliflower take about 1.5-3 months to mature properly at consistently cool temperatures. The ideal daytime temperature during ripening is around 15.5 ° C. This means that the right time to plant it depends on the climate you live in:
- Cold weather: If late summer temperatures are below 27ºC, you can plant the seeds for harvest in the fall. It starts 8-12 weeks before the first autumn frost.
- Warm climate: If frost does not typically occur during the winter, you can plant the seeds later in the fall, once the temperatures have dropped below 27ºC. Harvest will take place in winter or early spring.
- Temperate climate: planted in spring, it is not easy to grow regardless of the climate. California's coastal valleys are the only major exception and ensure year-round cauliflower cultivation.
Step 2. Adapt to the climate
Cauliflower is one of the most temperature sensitive vegetables. If the thermal conditions indicated so far do not reflect those of the area in which you live, you can simplify your work in the following ways:
- Look for "summer" or "tropical" varieties that can handle the higher temperatures.
- Wait about a month from the date indicated for sowing and buy seedlings already sprouted from a nursery.
- Plant a different group of seeds each week over the course of 4-6 weeks to see which one takes root best.
Step 3. Choose an area of the garden that is exposed to at least 6 hours of sunshine
Although cauliflower needs cool temperatures, paradoxically it also requires a fair amount of sunshine throughout the day. So, choose a sunny spot in the garden that isn't shaded by trees, tall grass, or other crops.
Also, make sure your garden has ample space for growing. Generally, cauliflower plants should be spaced about 45 to 60 cm apart
Step 4. Choose rich soil that can retain moisture
For a good harvest, the growth of the seedlings must be uninterrupted, i.e. the soil must be constantly moist and contain a sufficient amount of nutrients to ensure proper maturation. Good soil must meet both requirements. The ideal one for cauliflower should have the following characteristics:
- High concentration of organic material: increases the soil's ability to retain moisture;
- High concentration of potassium and nitrogen: potassium and nitrogen are vital nutrients for the growth of cauliflower; if they are not present in the soil, it may be necessary to use fertilizers;
- pH between 6, 5 and 7: a "sweet" pH decreases the risk of developing the so-called "cabbage hernia", a fungal disease, and promotes the availability of nutrients.
Step 5. Start by transplanting the cauliflower or grow the seeds indoors
This vegetable is known for its delicacy. Many people prefer to buy sprouted seedlings from a nursery and transplant them into the garden. If you have seeds, plant and grow them indoors to protect them from the elements:
- Place each seed in a peat disc or paper cup. The biodegradable container allows you to "plant" the whole pot in the garden at a later time without damaging the roots of the cauliflower.
- Push the seed about 0.5-1.25cm deep and cover it with soil.
- Water regularly so that the soil is moist, but not saturated with water.
- During the winter, keep the soil at 21 ° C by heating the underside with a heating pad.
- If you are planting seeds directly in the garden, create rows 7.5-15cm apart.
Step 6. Transplant the sprouted seedling
Whether you started from seed or bought the seedling from a nursery, you will need to move the sprout outdoors once three or four leaflets have sprouted:
- Before proceeding, keep the seedlings outside for an hour a day. Gradually increase the time over the course of a week to "harden" them to adapt to external conditions.
- If you used a biodegradable container, place it in the ground by leveling the soil throughout the garden.
- If the container is not biodegradable, carefully remove the seedling to avoid breaking the roots. Make a small hole in the ground and tuck it up to the stem. Try shallow digging around the shoot to help the surrounding soil retain water. Firm the soil and water the seedling.
Part 2 of 3: Caring for Growing Cauliflower
Step 1. Water regularly to provide the soil with 2.5-3.75 cm of water per week
In the cultivation of cauliflower the most important thing is regularity. These seedlings need a continuous supply of water and nutrients, otherwise you risk stopping their growth. If they don't grow properly, the final product won't have the right flavor or texture. After burying your seedlings, be sure to water them frequently so that the soil is always moist (but not waterlogged). In other words, they should be getting about 1 to 1.5 centimeters of water per week, and the humidity should be about 15cm deep.
Be aware that rainfall also contributes to irrigation. So, if you are experiencing frequent rains, don't overdo the water
Step 2. Add mulch
Once the seedlings begin to grow in the garden, cover the soil with a light layer of mulch to help them retain moisture and regulate the temperature.
Step 3. Prepare to protect the still tender cauliflower from pests
When the seedlings are young and fragile, they are more prone to attack by various pests, including the cabbage fly, aphids and the harlequin ladybug. This is especially true in cases where cauliflower is planted in spring since the end of the winter months usually coincides with the increase in insect proliferation. Some of these pests can impair the growth of cauliflower, while others can eat the whole plant, completely ruining the crop. Therefore, one of the main concerns for garden growers is to keep pest infestations under control at the first alarm bell.
- Non-toxic pest treatments include diatomaceous earth, soap-based spray solutions, and some strategies in cultivation, such as humidity control or the use of predatory insects. Learn about integrated pest management practices to learn more.
- You can also use pesticides compatible with certain plants, but read the instructions carefully. The wrong pesticide or incorrect application could damage them or make the vegetables inedible.
- To prevent pests from contaminating the cauliflower, try cutting old milk bags in half and arrange them on the seedlings to protect them.
Step 4. Use fertilizer to promote growth
If growth is slow or you suspect that the soil is of poor quality, try running a test. If it is moderately low in nitrogen (N) and potassium (K), add these nutrients with some fertilizer. Choose one that is rich in the missing nutrients and apply it every two to three weeks. You can also use seaweed extract to deliver boron, another important substance.
- If the garden is large, you can use a mixture of 5 liters of fertilizer every 30 m of cultivated rows.
- It uses a technique called "lateral fertilizer localization to the seed" to administer fertilizer to the growing plant. Dig a narrow, shallow furrow, parallel to each row of seedlings, about six to eight inches away from the stems. Pour the fertilizer into the furrow, rake the soil, and finally water. In this way you will go to administer it homogeneously to each plant and you will reduce the risk of overdoing it.
Step 5. Bleach your head to prevent it from darkening
As the cauliflower grows, a small "head" begins to form in the center of the leaves (sometimes also called a "ball"). In the common white cauliflower it tends to yellow and darken if it is exposed to light during growth. Although it is edible, it is visually less appealing and has a less tender texture. Therefore, it is preferable to use a process called "whitening" to maintain the whiteness of this inflorescence. When it reaches the size of an egg, fold the leaves of the seedling to cover and shield the brim from sunlight. If necessary, use twine or rubber bands to hold the leaves in place.
- If moisture gets trapped around the head, it can cause the plant to rot. Make sure the bud is dry before bleaching it and be careful not to get it wet while it is covered in leaves.
- Do not tie the leaves too tightly to block the passage of air.
- Keep in mind that colored varieties of cauliflower (such as purple, green, or orange) should not be bleached. In addition, there are some varieties of white cauliflower that "whiten on their own" because the leaves tend to naturally protect the head as it grows.
Step 6. Harvest the cauliflowers when the heads are large, white and firm
After bleaching, continue caring for the plant as usual, occasionally removing the leaves around the head to monitor growth and eliminate moisture after watering. When it reaches a diameter of about 15 cm and is white and firm, the cauliflower is ready to be harvested. The right time varies from a few days to a few weeks after bleaching, depending on the climate (growth is generally faster in the warm season). With the help of a knife cut the head from the base of the plant, leaving a few leaves attached to protect it. Rinse, dry, remove the leaves and cook your cauliflower.
You can store it in various ways. It can be kept in the refrigerator for almost a week or, if you prefer to keep it for a long time, you can freeze it or pickle it. Alternatively, you can take out the plant with all its roots and keep it upside down in a cool place for up to a month
Part 3 of 3: Treating Common Cauliflower Diseases
Step 1. Treat boron deficiency with a seaweed extract
If cauliflower is not getting enough boron, another essential nutrient, it begins to exhibit a host of unwanted symptoms. The head turns brown, the tips of the leaves wither, the leaves deform, and the stem can become hollow and darken. To treat this problem, you need to add boron to the soil immediately. Promptly feed the plant with algae extract and repeat the treatment every two weeks until symptoms subside.
For subsequent times, add boron to the soil by mixing it into compost or using compost cover crops with vetch or clover
Step 2. Stop the cabbage hernia by eliminating infected plants
Cabbage hernia is a fungal infection that causes large growths on the roots of plants in the Brassicaceae family (including cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts). These growths, being located on the roots, compromise the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients and cause it to grow asymmetrically, wither and eventually die. Worst of all, it is a contagious infection that can easily spread from one plant to another. To prevent one case of cabbage herniation from ruining the entire crop, you need to take drastic measures. Tear off the infected plants with all the root and throw them away (do not use them in compost). Make sure you get rid of all the root systems, otherwise the fungus left in the soil can spread spores and continue to spread.
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To prevent a cabbage hernia from recurring, use one of the following methods:
- Improve soil drainage by adding organic material (cabbage hernia thrives in moist environments).
- Use a cover crop made with winter rye and loosen the soil before planting the cauliflower again.
- Alternate crops. Do not plant varieties of the Brassicaceae family in the same spot for two consecutive years.
- Increase the alkalinity of the soil by mixing it with hydrated lime in the fall (cabbage hernia thrives in acidic soils).
- Spread thin sheets of clear plastic on the infected ground on sunny days. Leave it for 1-1, 5 months. The plastic creates a kind of greenhouse effect, capturing the sun's rays, heating the soil and killing the fungus.
Grow Ginseng Step 2 Step 3. Prevent stem cancer by alternating crops
Another common fungal disease in cauliflower is stem cancer. It causes irregular gray holes or lesions in the leaves and is sometimes accompanied by root rot. Like cabbage hernia, it is a difficult disease to treat, so prevention is the best solution. In particular, crop rotation is an effective technique to reduce the risk of it developing. Do not plant cauliflower (or another variety of the Brassicaceae family) in the same spot for two years in a row. By doing so, any residual traces of fungus will have a year to die.
- Also, in the case of canker, remove all plant residues left over after harvest. Dead or decaying plant material can contain live fungi for months, favoring reinfection in subsequent crops.
- If you suspect that some seeds are contaminated with the fungus, washing them with hot water will remove it before planting.
