There are few things better than sitting in the shade and spending a cool spring evening on a swing. Especially if you did the rocking yourself. For anyone with some basic woodworking tools and the ability to use them, here's a cute and fun project suitable for almost any type of porch.
Note that the swing can also be mounted on a stand-alone structure rather than a porch if you wish.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Part 1: Preparation
Step 1. Measure the space where you want to install the swing
This area will determine how long your swing will be. If your porch ceiling has joints, exposed grooves, or other structural elements with openings between them, you may want to create the bench so that you can attach the supports between each opening.
You also need to consider the depth of the seat and the height of the backrest. Take this type of measurement on a similar chair that you are particularly comfortable in (e.g. a dining chair). The rocking chair for this project has a 508mm deep seat and 457mm high backrest, comfortable measurements for a medium height person, but may not be comfortable for someone with very short legs.
Step 2. Choose the materials you are going to use
This article involves using treated southern yellow pine, but cedar, fir, cypress, juniper or even birch will do just as well, as long as the components are thick and strong enough to support the weight they will have to hold.
Step 3. Gather all the tools, supports and wooden planks you need for the project
Here is a list divided by type; take a look at the Things You Will Need section for more information on parts and dimensions.
- Tools: circular saw, jigsaw, hammer, tape measure, level, drill with multiple bits;
- Attacks: wood screws, eye screws
- Wood: 15 strips 25, 4 x 102mm (as long as the width you want for your swing); a 51 x 152 mm board and 2.5 m long
Step 4. Prepare a shelf to work on
Two metal trestles and a sheet of plywood are great for creating a countertop, but any flat surface that can provide a worktop at a comfortable height can still be a good solution.
Method 2 of 3: Part 2: Measurements and Pieces
Step 1. Measure and cut seven strips 25, 4 x 102 mm to the length you want for the finished swing
The one used as an example is 152cm long. Cut the strips lengthwise, taking care to make all square cuts (90 °).
Step 2. Place blocks on the table to hold the battens up, then attach a latch to prevent them from slipping off as you cut them wide
If you have a table saw instead, you can use it to cut out the battens.
Step 3. Cut out the slats for the seat and back
Those for the seat must be 19 mm wide, while those for the backrest can also be only 12.7 mm. For a seat that is 508mm deep, you will need about 17 slats (to leave space between one and the other); for a 457 mm high back (which has to support less weight), 15 is needed.
If the seat or back is a different size from the one in the example and you are not sure how many slats you need, make a total number slightly less than the size of the space (keep low for now, you can always make more later)
Step 4. Drill each 25.4mm batten from both ends with a 5mm bit
Later, when you go to fasten them to the structure with wood screws, these preventive holes will ensure that the battens do not crack.
You may also want to add a hole exactly in the center of each lath, depending on whether or not you intend to create a central support for your swing. If you are making a short bench or working with hardwood, a center support may not be necessary. If in doubt, include one. The swing in the example has a central support
Step 5. Cut four or six 51 x 152 mm rear and bottom supports
If your bench only needs external supports, cut two at the bottom and two at the back. You also need a central one, cut three for each part. The length of the rear supports should be equal to the desired height of the bench, while that of the lower supports should be equal to the desired depth of the seat.
Step 6. Mark and cut out curves in the rear and bottom supports (optional)
The bench in the example has a slight curvature on the supports to make the rocking more comfortable (as well as aesthetically pleasing). The curvature depends on your preferences; maybe you could choose to leave the seat straight if you wish.
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Choose a piece for the back support, draw the curve freehand with a pen, then go over it with a marker. Unless the seat and back are the same, you will need to repeat the same action with the lower one.
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Cut the drawn support with a jigsaw (leaving the thin end a little longer, to go through later to fix the joints of the pieces later). Then carry the mark on the other supports or use the first as a mold. Repeat the process with the lower support pieces.
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Step 7. Make an angled cut at the end of each bottom and back support
This is to make sure that the parts come together at the correct angle based on the angle you want to achieve for the seat. You can start at a 45 ° angle in one of the two pieces, then place it on the opposite piece and turn until you find the desired angle. When you are satisfied, mark the corner to be cut on the piece that is still intact by tracing the outline of the cut piece, then cut along the resulting line. The two corners will not be the same size, but it won't matter because they will be on the rear bottom of the swing, hidden from view. Trace the angle of the cut back support over all the others and cut out the same way, then switch to the lower ones.
Method 3 of 3: Part 3: Assemble the Rocking Chair
Step 1. Attach the lower supports to the rear ones
Drill pilot holes for the screws that will join each pair of brackets together, then secure them with # 12, 3 1/2 inch (89mm) gold screws. This is a critical point: since the screws will be the only support of the joint, they will take a lot of pressure.
Depending on the length of the joint, it may be appropriate to insert the screws at opposite angles
Step 2. Place the completed support pieces on the work surface and spread the innermost batten you cut earlier on top of them
Make sure you have them evenly spaced and that all the backrests are oriented in the opposite direction, then screw the center batten in place.
Unless you want to cut the protrusions to accommodate the armrests, do not position the slats so that they pass both outer supports. The armrests will need to be attached to the outer supports, which means the overhang will be a nuisance
Step 3. Attach the other battens
First, use a square to make sure they are placed parallel to the previous one, then move on to screw them in.
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Position the square so that it borders the central batten and one of the supports, and check that they are perpendicular. Repeat with the other pieces as needed. If needed, place them on top of each other (by moving them sideways) to get a more accurate 90 ° angle.
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Add more slats along the seat, spacing them between 6.5 and 9.5 mm - if necessary, cut more to match the coverage you want to achieve. You can place them temporarily or fix them with screws, but the first option may be necessary to arrange them evenly. Attaching the top and bottom batten first may help you keep the gap even. Make sure you use thicker slats for the seat (19mm) and 13mm slats for the backrest.
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Step 4. Make the armrests and their supports
Generally, an armrest should be about 20 cm high and about half a meter long.
- Armrest supports. Cut two wedge-shaped strips (50x100 mm) to a length of approximately 33 cm, with a thickness ranging from 7 mm to 19 mm from one end to the other.
- The Armrests. Cut two more strips 56 cm long, with a thickness ranging from 3.8 cm on one end to 25.4 cm on the other. This for each armrest
- Mount the armrests. Decide the height at which you want to place them on the swing frame, and then the position of the supports on the seat piece. Secure them with # 12 x 7.5 cm wood screws. Add two more wood screws through the top of the armrest to the stand.
Step 5. Drill a hole in the holder of each armrest for the ring screw that the chain for your swing will attach to, and drill another in each side of the backrest for the additional ones that will support the backrest chain
Screw in the eye bolts, placing washers at their base (to prevent the bolts from digging into the wood), then tighten the bolts at the ends with a wrench.
Step 6. Determine the height at which you want to place your swing, insert hooks or eye bolts for top attachment, and measure the lengths of the chains you will need to hang it
You may want to consider modifying the chains to achieve the desired angle.
Advice
- Use galvanized or enameled screws to prevent corrosion. However, consider that galvanized ones are not suitable for cedar wood.
- Smooth all edges, which is necessary to prevent children from bumping into it and injuring themselves.
- Consider taking 2.5-meter battens. This cut is usually cheaper, and any scraps can be reused in other projects.
- Sand each edge to avoid splinters and other types of hazards that come with wood.
- Finish with an outer cover such as polyurethane to give your swing a better look and a longer life.
Warnings
- Use all safety precautions when using each tool.
- The joints must be well secured to use the finished swing safely.
- Never let small children play with the swing unsupervised; they could fall or be hit by the swing itself.
