Cable knitting is a type of knitting in which several layers of yarn overlap each other to create a more sophisticated weave. Although the end result looks quite complex, the process is very simple once you know how.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Mount the Stitches and Start the Job
Step 1. Mount 18 stitches on the left hand needle
Make sure you use an iron that fits the thickness of the yarn used, which is indicated on the back of the ball's label.
Step 2. Follow this pattern for the next four lines
At the end of each row, reverse the work so that the needle the stitches are on is on the left hand and the free needle on the right hand.
- Row 1: Purl six stitches, purl six, then purl six again.
- Row 2: knit six stitches, you are purl, then you are straight.
- Row 3: Purl six stitches, you are straight, then you are purl.
- Row 4: knit six stitches, you are purl, then you are straight.
Part 2 of 3: Work the Braid
Step 1. Purl the first six stitches
After you've assembled the stitches and worked the first four rows, you can start making the braid. Start by purl the first six stitches. It is important to lightly pull the piece after each stitch. This loosens the stiffness of the knit and prevents the formation of holes, tension on the fabric, etc.
Step 2. Move the next three straight stitches from the main needle to the auxiliary two-pointed needle
Get an auxiliary needle that is the same size as the knitting needles, otherwise the weft thickness may not be even.
If you don't have an auxiliary needle, you can use a double-pointed knitting needle, or even a pencil or pen. However, remember that this can create imperfections in the texture
Step 3. Move the auxiliary needle to the front or back of the knitting
Its positioning determines the direction of the braid.
- If you want to make the braid turn to the left, put the auxiliary needle on the front of the piece. This is called a left junction.
- If you want the braid to turn to the right instead, place the auxiliary needle behind the piece; this is called the right crossing.
Step 4. Work the next three stitches on the knitting needle
Leave the first three stitches on the auxiliary needle - you will work them in the next step. This is what creates the "crease" of the braid.
Step 5. Knit the three open stitches on the auxiliary needle straight
Avoid pulling them too hard. On the contrary, try to keep the auxiliary iron as close as possible to the rest of the work; this will facilitate subsequent knitting.
Step 6. Purl the last six stitches, then reverse the work
Put the auxiliary needle aside, and purl the last stitches on the knitting needle. When finished, reverse the work so that the needle with all the stitches is on the left hand, and the free one on the right hand.
Part 3 of 3: Continue the Pattern
Step 1. Follow this pattern for the next three rows
For these three rows you will not use the auxiliary iron. This will create the curved part of the braid, called the "braiding lines".
- Row 1: knit six stitches, you are purl, then you are straight;
- Row 2: purl six stitches, you are straight, then you are purl;
- Row 3: knit six stitches, you are purl, then you are straight.
Step 2. Repeat the braid
Purl six stitches and insert the auxiliary needle into the next three stitches. Knit three straight stitches on the knitting needle and three on the auxiliary needle. Finish with six more purl stitches.
Step 3. Repeat the interlacing lines
After each series of three rows of weaving, work a braid. Remember to place the auxiliary needle on the same side each time (front or back of piece).
Step 4. Finished
Advice
- Get an auxiliary needle that is the same size as the irons you choose to use. This will make moving the stitches much easier and the texture more homogeneous.
- Auxiliary iron is also called curved iron for braids. Instead of this you can use a double pointed iron.
- There are several types of auxiliary irons. Some have indentations, others have hooks. You can experiment and use the one that suits you best.
- Pull the purl stitches a little, while still leaving them soft. This helps to not stretch the work, which can create holes and openings.
- If you are a beginner, you may find it easier to work with smooth yarn, avoiding thicker ones, chenille, or other more sophisticated yarns.
- In the diagrams you will find abbreviations such as “6m crossing to the left”. 6m refers to how many stitches to weave. Left and right refers to the direction in which the braid turns, i.e. where the auxiliary needle is positioned (in front or behind the work).
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The scheme described in this article would be written like this:
- Row 1: P 6, K 6, P 6
- Row 2: K 6, P 6, K 6
- Row 3: P 6, K 6, P 6
- Row 4: K 6, P 6, K 6
- Row 5: P 6, crossing 6m to the left, P 6
- Row 6: K 6, P 6, K 6
- Row 7: P 6, K 6, P 6
- Row 8: K 6, P 6, K 6
- Row 9: P 6, crossing of 6m to the left, P 6
- Repeat from row 2
- You can do the same pattern with more or fewer points, but try to keep them even number. For example you can do P 4, K 4, P 4 or P 8, K 8, P 8.
Warnings
- Be careful that the stitches do not slip off the auxiliary needle while using the knitting needles.
- With the same number of stitches, the intertwining patterns are narrower than the normal stockinette stitch. Keep this in mind if you're adding a weave to a pattern that doesn't originally have one.
