Choosing a snowboard is a bit like choosing a surfboard. Some riders prefer to turn faster and do tricks, while others like to go slower. Whether you are looking for the thrill or just want to try it as a winter hobby, buying a snowboard can be very complex and tiring if you don't know what to look for.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Examine Yourself
Step 1. Determine your experience level
There are three essential skill levels in snowboarding: beginner, intermediate and expert. A professional could also be considered a fourth level in terms of experience. Many snowboards are specially created for specific levels of experience, and the description of the board will usually give you that information.
- Beginners are those who have never snowboarded before, or who still move slowly when riding down a slope.
- On the other hand, an intermediate snowboarder is more stable, can use both edges of the board (toe edge and heel edge), may have already started running as a switch (with the non-dominant foot), and may have started using the board in one. snow park or to train in other ways.
- An experienced snowboarder is highly confident in his movements, is able to adapt to various conditions and can run on the most difficult terrain while always maintaining control.
- A pro is someone who has been snowboarding for so long that they are more comfortable on a board than on foot.
- Keep track of your progress when choosing a board so you don't pass that experience level too quickly.
Step 2. Decide what your style will be
Some examples of snowboard styles are: freestyle, freeride, all mountain, powder riding, backcountry. The style of riding has a big influence on the type of board to buy.
- Freestyle, in special parks or in the mountains, includes tricks such as jumps (jumps), jumps on railings (rails) and platforms (boxes), halfpipes. Freestyle boards are slightly shorter and more easily flexible.
- Freeride means snowboarding around the slopes, with cross-country riding, high speed and natural terrain. Freeriders typically choose a board with traditional / positive camber, for more edge control, and with a directional shape.
- All mountain consists of a combination of freestyle and freeride. All mountain boards should have a twin directional shape, a flex 5 and a length depending on which style you will use most often.
- Powder riding is for those snowboarders who go hiking in search of large mountain spaces. This type of riding is done only by experts or in any case under the supervision of experts. The powder riding boards are more resistant and longer, with different camber designed specifically to glide better on snowy layers and to have more control.
- Splitboards are made for mountainous areas, as they can be split into separate halves for transport and climbing, and then reconnected for normal downhill riding. They need ad hoc attacks.
Step 3. Determine the correct shape of your board based on your riding style
There are four types of shapes: twin, directional, twin directional and tapered. Shape descriptions are based on tip and tail length and width.
- The twin boards are symmetrical at both ends, therefore with the tip and tail of the same length and width. They are meant for beginners and freestylers, because they can be ridden in either direction, or using both regular and switch settings. They are also a great choice for children.
- The directional boards are for a single use, and have a wider and longer tip than the tail, thus giving more suspension and performance in that direction. This type of board is especially useful for freeriders.
- The twin directional boards are a mix, in terms of shape, between the twin and directional boards. They are designed for all mountain freestylers, because they give stability at high speed and in deep snow, but also allow switch and freestyle in parks.
- The tapered boards are more extreme versions of the directional boards. The tip is much wider than the tail, in order to give the board more grip on soft ground. This type of board is designed for powder riding.
Step 4. Find the right flex for your board based on your riding style
The flex determines the softness or stiffness of the board. The correct flex for your board depends on your skill and style. Flex is measured on a scale of 0 to 10, where 0 stands for very soft and 10 for extremely stiff. Some boards also have variable flex along the board, for particular uses.
- Beginners (including children) and freestylers will use a board with a softer flex because it is easier to press and harder to get stuck in the snow. This will result in greater response to your body movements, making it easier to turn around and control the board.
- All mountain riders will use a board with a medium flex, suitable for all types of snowboards.
- A stiff board is useful for high speed snowboarding, freeriding, powder riding and halfpipe. It is used for greater stability, and saves energy in deep snow, high speed and demanding maneuvers in the air.
- Freestyle boards sometimes have more flex in the center, and more stiffness at the tip and tail.
- Freeride boards sometimes have a stiffer tail, to help the rider on uneven terrain, so you can make the board make small jumps. The same thing goes for halfpipe boards.
Step 5. Choose your boots
Boots are the most important aspect in terms of comfort. They are also designed for performance, and can help you improve as a rider if chosen correctly. The boots vary according to their flex, and are chosen according to your skill and style.
- Boots with a soft flex are the most flexible; they are perfect for beginners and children, because they are simple and comfortable.
- Mid flex boots give more power in turns and faster reaction times, so they are better for more experienced riders.
- Stiff boots are used for halfpipe and freeriders, for fast and aggressive styles. They give excellent cornering strength, and more power and protection in the halfpipe.
Step 6. Record your height and weight to find the right length board
Boards are measured in length from tip to tail, and this length has a profound effect on performance. In general, the height should be midway between your shoulders and your nose when the board is upright. There are some characteristics that determine the exact length your board should have within this limit.
- If you are a heavier than average person, you should choose a slightly longer board. If you are lighter, a shorter one.
- If you are a freestyle rider, a beginner or a child you should choose a shorter board as it is easier to control, turn and turn. A shorter board will go around your Adam's apple.
- If you are a freerider or powder rider, you should choose a long board, which comes about halfway between your chin and nose - and someone might choose one that is even longer than that. A longer board will give you more stability at high speeds, and more surface area for deep snow.
- Shorter boards are better for children because they are easier to control. However, children are constantly growing, so it might help to choose a board that is a little longer than their height, so they can grow by continuing to use it, instead of having to change it too soon. For children, choose a board that is closer to the chest if they are beginners, cautious, light in weight, or are inclined to make short, quick turns at low speed. Children, who are running fast and aggressively, weigh more than their height, or are growing rapidly, should instead choose a board closer in length to their nose. Don't choose a longer board than this, or it may hinder their learning and enjoyment.
Step 7. Take your shoe size to determine the width of your board
Once you have the boots, you can determine the width of the board you will need. Ideally, your shoes should extend beyond the edges of the board by 1-2.5cm. This way you can control the board more easily when changing edges, without having your heel and toe dragged through the snow when running.
- Most people with a size 43 will be comfortable with a normal width board.
- Those wearing a size 43-45 will likely need a medium to wide width board.
- Those wearing a size 45 or larger will likely need a wide board.
- If your feet are 47-48 in size, you will need an extra wide board.
Step 8. Calculate how much you will spend on the table
A board with more boots and bindings will cost between 400 and 900 euros and more, depending on style, material and design. The cost of your board will depend on your budget and skill level, so it's a good idea to calculate how much your funds are before heading to the store.
- Beginner boards cost around € 140-230, with boots around € 130 and bindings around € 140.
- Intermediate boards cost between € 230 and € 400, with boots around € 180 and bindings around € 180.
- Top-level boards cost € 400 and up, with boots around € 280 and up, and bindings around € 230 and up.
- Children's boards can be taken used, to save costs, but the board will need to be of good quality, with no scratches or damage.
Part 2 of 2: Learn How a Snowboard Works
Step 1. Look at the body and construction of the boards
Most of the boards are made of wood, but some high-level boards are made of synthetic materials such as aluminum, artificial wax or fibers. The wooden body is then coated with fiberglass and finished with a layer containing the graphic part.
- The central body can be built in different ways. The higher quality boards use many layers of wood to reinforce them. The center can also be composed of wood grains that move in different directions in different parts of the board to increase the strength and grip of the board. All bodies are vertically laminated, and most of them are laminated from tip to tail. However, some less expensive boards use plastic spacers on the tip and tail, instead of having wood all the way down the body.
- The fiberglass that covers the body determines the rigidity of the board. The beginner and freestyler boards have a single layer of fiberglass woven in one direction for more softness and flexibility. The most rigid boards have fiberglass deposited in various angles, to increase rigidity and durability. High quality fiberglass is also less heavy than lower quality fiberglass. A snowboard should be as light and strong as possible.
- The top layer contains the graphics, and can be made of wood, fabric or a padded material. It can protect the fiberglass and the body from damage, but it shouldn't be an important element when choosing a board.
Step 2. Examine the base of the snowboard
The bases of the snowboards are either extruded, which indicates that the polyethylene balls have been melted before being pushed together under pressure, or sintered, indicating that the polyethylene balls have been extremely compressed without first being dissolved. The designs can be applied to the base using the methods of screen printing, sublimation or decalcomania.
- Beginner, intermediate and freestyler boards usually have extruded bases, being cheaper and easier to repair in case of damage. The extruded bases can be wiped with solid wax or hot wax every 8 times the board is used in the mountains.
- Sintered bases have pores between the balls, which means they can absorb more wax, and are therefore much faster. They will need to have hot wax applied every 3-5 times you take them to the mountains. Sintered bases particularly need to be waxed often to maintain their performance capability.
- The serigraphs were applied directly on the base, layered, from the bottom to the center. They are usually used on extruded bases.
- Sublimation occurs when the designs are printed on paper and then, using heat and pressure, the ink is transferred from the paper to the base. A second layer is then applied in the same way, and the base is then attached to the board with epoxy.
- The decal takes place when the colors are cut out and inlaid next to each other. With no ink added, the end result will be lighter board weight and sharper graphics.
- Most boards have a number assigned to the base, indicating the number of pores per square centimeter. They can range from 500 to 8,000, with more pores indicating a faster board that needs to be waxed more often.
Step 3. Decide how much sidecut you want in your new snowboard
The sidecut, or sidecut, is the amount of curvature in the board between the tip and the core, and it differs from brand to brand. It is measured in meters from the radius of the hypothetical circle that would be created around it.
- Freestylers and beginners may want to choose a board with a smaller sidecut (deeper bend), which allows for greater ability to turn quickly.
- A wider (shallower) sidecut is better for wide, slow turns, and presses more surface to the ground, making it more suitable for freeriders and powder riders.
- There are several new sidecut technologies with bumps or areas in the sidecut with additional contact points for better grip in the snow. They are suitable for hard and frozen soils.
Step 4. Look at the structure of the side edges
The side edges are the edges of the board between the base and the surface. They hold the board together and protect the edges of the body from damage. They can be built with a cap or sandwich.
- The plug construction is when the top layer wraps around the edges of the board, and holds better in icy conditions and hard ground. They are stronger but more difficult to repair.
- Sandwich construction is more common and easier to manufacture, thus making it cheaper and easier to repair. It is present when the side edge is inserted at the sides to protect the central body. The side edge is sandwiched between a surface layer and the base of the board.
Step 5. Decide the curvature of the board
The camber board has a curvature in the center, with the tip and tail acting as the main contact points with the ground. The other type, the rocker board, has reverse camber.
- Traditional camber has been around since the beginnings of snowboarding, and is better suited to freestylers' jumps, more sensitive to edge changes for all mountain riders, and easier to use on uneven terrain due to greater flexibility. They hold their shape and flex better than rocker boards.
- Rocker boards are popular with freestylers because they don't stick to railings, by backcountry riders because they glide well in deep snow, and by beginners because they make it easier to turn from edge to edge.
- Some boards are simply flat, which is a cross between a camber and a rocker; they offer better cornering ability than a camber board, and more refined edging ability than a rocker.
- Different brands have different versions of camber and rocker boards, so read the descriptions to understand which style they were made for.
- Some brands are currently experimenting with a mix of rocker and camber curvatures on the same board at the same time. For example, a board might have a center rocker and tip and tail camber, or a center camber and tip and tail rocker. They are designed for different purposes, and have a wide range of possibilities.
- There are no rules when it comes to camber or rocker. Choose the version you are comfortable with.
Step 6. Choose the mount for the bindings
Some boards have a specific arrangement for mounting the bindings on the board. In general, most boards and bindings are interchangeable, but there are some that don't work together. There are four different types of frames: 2x4 disc, 4x4 disc, 3D (Burton), and the channel system (Burton).
- The 2x4 disc mount has two rows of holes 4 cm apart. In each row the holes are separated by 2 cm, which allows various mounting options of the bindings.
- The 4x4 disc has two rows of holes 4 cm apart, and in each row the holes are separated by 4 cm.
- The 3D has the holes arranged in a diamond shape, which is compatible with most bindings, but offers fewer options in terms of position. This frame pattern is common in Burton boards.
- The channel system is a rail that allows the rider's feet to have an extreme connection with the board, thus making them feel better. This is common on Burton boards and it is best to use Burton's EST bindings. Such bindings offer many location options. You can also get a special plate for using non-Burton bindings on a board that uses the channel system.
Step 7. Choose your bindings
Choose the bindings according to your boots and your board. They should be able to be mounted on your board and fit your boots. There are three different sizes (small, medium and large) and two different styles (strap-in and rear-entry). They also differ in flex, laces, highback (back) and baseplate (bottom).
- Choose your size by trying on the bindings with your boots. You can also consult the manufacturer's chart to find which sizes will work with small, medium or large bindings.
- Strap-in bindings are the most common, and have two laces, while rear-entry have a highback that drops down, allowing you to slip into the boot. The strap-ins offer the possibility to make many changes and adjustments for the cushioning, while the rear-entry bindings make it very quick to put on the boots and go. Rear-entry bindings are usually preferred by riders more interested in comfort.
- The flex of a binding can range from 0 to 10. Freestylers choose more flexible bindings, with a 1-2 flex that allows for more errors, easier landings, and the ability to change the grip. All mountain riders choose a medium flex of 3-5, good for all types of riding, while freeriders choose stiffer bindings with a 6-8 flex, for better reactions and power to give to the board.
- Strap-ins generally have a lace on the heel and a larger one above the ankle. The heel lace can be a traditional lace over the toes, or a stopper lace that goes over and in front of the toes to make the board's reactions feel better. A single lace consists of a lace only above the foot, and is mostly found in rear-entry bindings.
- The highback is the plate that goes from the heel to the lower calf, and controls the edge facing the heels of your board. Softer, shorter highbacks give more flexibility and ease to freestylers and beginners, while stiff, tall highbacks give more control and speed. The highback can also be adjusted to an angle to suit your preferences.
- The baseplate is your connection between the binding and the board, and is made up of various materials. The higher-end bindings have baseplates of stronger and more flexible materials, to optimize board flex, power transmission and durability. Some baseplates are also tilted slightly towards an angle (canting), to shift your posture and knee position slightly forward, and thus give a more natural feel.
- Children may tire of attachments that are difficult for them to use. Step-in or rear-entry bindings are usually easier for them to use, but strap-in bindings might work just as well. Have your child try to close the bindings while wearing his boots and snow jacket to make sure he can use them correctly.
Advice
- The women's boards tend to have a narrower central part, less thickness and more softness in flexion, to adapt to different mechanics, lower body mass and smaller feet.
- It is a good idea to rent a board before making a purchase if you are new to the sport. This will allow you to decide if you really like it, but it will also give you some experience, and understand which style of riding you prefer.
- Some boards also included the bindings, others did not. If they don't have them, you need to get them separately and assemble them yourself. Snowboard shops can help you choose the right bindings, and even mount them for you.
- Snowboards for children are usually softer, to make it easier to turn around and learn to ride. These are also usually very flexible twin snowboards, specially designed to adapt to a child's coordination. Kids are often picky when it comes to graphic design, so keep that in mind when choosing a board.