Building a longboard is definitely a cheaper solution than buying one and will surely guarantee you a lot of fun, not to mention the fact that you will have a completely original board. You need to have some carpentry skills and access to some tools; Plus, you need to have a bit of creativity and a lot of motivation to get your project done. If you need help, talk to a friend, parent, or skate shop clerk.
Steps
Part 1 of 5: Getting the Material
Step 1. Gather all the material you need for the table
You will need:
- Two or three pieces of plywood or solid wood to build the board.
- Wood glue or other strong adhesive.
- Fine and coarse-grained sandpaper.
- Eight small screws to fix the trucks to the table, four for each truck. The screws must be long enough to ensure a secure mounting of the trucks, but not long enough to completely penetrate the thickness of the board. Make sure the diameter is correct for the holes in the trucks.
- When you model the curvature of the table, you should screw it or fix it with the stapler, so as to allow a good seal between the various thicknesses. The amount of screws or staples largely depends on the size of the project and the quality of your pressure tool. Screws may prove useless if you use a press; while they would make the board much tighter if you use clamps or weights to determine the curvature of the longboard.
- A drill.
- Some weights.
- A jigsaw to cut out the board.
- Polyurethane or fiberglass paint, hardener and a cloth.
- A large sheet of paper and a pencil to draw the lines of the board.
- The grip tape; it is a sort of adhesive sandpaper, specific for skateboards, which allows excellent adherence of the feet on the board.
Step 2. Choose the type of wood
If you want to make a fairly inexpensive board, get two or three 6mm thick plywood panels; alternatively buy 4 or 6 3 mm panels. Finally, as a last resort, you can use 7 or 9 sheets of 1mm thick plywood. You will need to use screws or wood glue to join these panels together and create a single board with several layers. The number of panels you will use depends largely on the flexibility you want to achieve: the greater the number of layers, the stiffer the longboard will be. You can also purchase a pre-pressed plywood panel from which to cut out your board.
- If you have the time or money, look for high quality wood. Bamboo, birch, ash and maple are among the most used materials and each one gives specific characteristics to the final product. Keep in mind that bamboo is the strongest.
- Each panel must be 25cm wide and 100cm long or even more if you want a really long board. You should already have a basic idea of the longboard silhouette before you start building it. However, remember that you can always cut the wood to size.
- Do not buy wood from a DIY store or construction wholesaler: at these retailers you will find wood that is too dry, more suitable for construction than skateboards. A sawmill is the best place; basically you could use any type of solid wood, even parquet scraps.
Step 3. Evaluate the type of adhesive
Find a good quality, flexible glue that is designed for wood or one made from resin and epoxy. The function of the glue is to keep the various layers of the board together; for this reason, if you use a poor quality glue, you will have a poor quality longboard.
Step 4. Buy the trucks
These are the metal attachments where the wheels are engaged and which keep them fixed to the table; they also allow you to turn when you tilt your body. These are very important elements to have the right sensitivity in the "guide" of the longboard. Good trucks are recommended, such as the Reverse Kingpin Trucks brand, unless you decide to also model a tail (rear end of the board) and use the longboard to perform ollies. Standard Kingpin trucks give you good momentum in jumps, while Reverse trucks give you greater stability and precision when cornering.
Some boards are equipped with Double Kingpins which allow for greater inclination, but at the expense of stability
Step 5. Choose your wheels
The harder they are, the faster they will flow. If your idea is to whiz along sidewalks, then choose wheels with a high value on the durometer scale. To have good scrolling, you should get wheels with a level of 80a. The soft wheels ensure greater grip on the ground and are more suitable for tight turns.
Step 6. Get the ball bearings
They are elements that are inserted into the wheels and that guarantee a smooth and uniform rotation. Prices vary widely, depending on the quality you are looking for. The ceramic ones are excellent, but they can also cost more than 100 euros. A set of mid-range ball bearings is around 20 euros. Those from Bones Reds or Seismic Tektons are of good quality and at an acceptable price.
Part 2 of 5: Layering and Modeling the Board
Step 1. Cut the plywood (or solid wood) to size
Cut the panels into strips 25 cm wide and 100 cm long; you can increase the length a little more according to the finished product you want to obtain. If you want a particularly long board, then add a few centimeters, otherwise reduce the length according to your needs. Don't worry about the board silhouette - for now you just need rectangular strips of plywood. You will cut out the profile of the longboard once you have pressed and joined the various layers thus forming a single solid block.
Step 2. Draw the shape of the board
On a sheet of paper, draw a straight line as long as the finished board. This is the midline of the longboard. Now draw the shape of the board starting from this midline. The skate will need to be symmetrical, so just trace half of it and use the paper pattern for both sides. Consider how you intend to use the skate: very long boards (100-150 cm and more) are perfect for handling high speeds for long straight-line rides; short boards are more manageable and allow you quick tight turns. Cruising boards (for long distances) are wider, while those for tight turns have a thinner profile.
If this is your first board, stick to something simple. Draw a slightly curved line in the nose, so that it is wide and even, as it is the point that allows you to steer. The widest part must be 1/3 of the total length of the board from the nose
Step 3. With the pencil, trace the edges of the board on the piece of wood
The process involves joining the various layers of plywood together using glue and a certain amount of pressure. Once the glue is dry, you can cut out the shape of the board. Draw the lines very carefully and make sure they are exactly where you want them. Check for imperfections in the wood and that each half of the longboard is perfectly symmetrical to the other (unless you have decided otherwise).
Step 4. Drill holes along the entire outer perimeter of the board
You will have to pass and tighten the screws in these holes to lock the various layers together, for this reason make sure that the holes are slightly smaller than the screws you will use. Also in this case the amount of screws (and therefore of holes) you will need depends very much on the final length of the skate, so there is no correct number to suggest. Try to space the holes evenly around the perimeter and consider which areas of the design need more support to ensure adherence between the layers (such as those that protrude or shrink sharply towards the center).
- Make sure that the various plywood or wood panels are well overlapped and aligned, block them so they do not slip. Drill the holes perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the wood and be careful not to puncture the area that, at the end, will be the board. The holes must remain outside the perimeter of the skate, at least 2.5 cm from the edge.
- Consider drilling into the wood once you have clamped all the layers together. Remember to drill the holes outside the profile of the board.
Step 5. Glue the various layers
Mix the adhesive of your choice and with the help of a brush spread a thick layer of it on the inside of each piece of wood. Then, with great care, overlap the various panels. Make sure the holes are facing up.
Protect the floor. The pressure you will have to exert on the board will push the glue out of the edges and through the holes, so it could fall back on the floor
Step 6. Model the board
Stack the pieces of plywood so that the smooth side of one panel (what will become the top surface of the longboard) rests on the bottom. Arrange the wood so that the ends are supported by some object, while the central portion remains suspended.
Step 7. Put the weights on the board
Arrange them on the stack of plywood panels just around the widest part of the skate. The board should be slightly bent upwards in the center, this way it will flatten under your weight. This phase of the work is more of an art than a precise scientific process, so add some ballast until you get the curvature you want. Try to make a slight bend if you want to get good results. Leave the board under the weights until the wood has stabilized in the desired shape.
Consider using very strong clamps instead of weights. Secure them in the center of the board so that this part curves downward from the ends
Step 8. Put a screw in the hole near the nose of the board
Then add the weights to the surface or re-clamp the board with clamps. If you are happy with the curvature you got, add the rest of the screws around the perimeter of the board. Prevents the glue from getting into the spaces between the lines.
Step 9. Check the curvature again to make sure it is the way you want it
When you are satisfied, wait for the glue to set, following the instructions on the package.
Step 10. Remove the screws
Step 11. Consider using a specific press to shape your longboard
This is a much more expensive solution than glue, but its purchase may be justified if you plan to build several boards. The two most used presses are the vacuum and formwork presses.
- Formwork press: this is formed by two bars with a 5x10 cm section which are arranged along the edges of the plywood panel. There is also another bar (again with a 5x10 cm section) that rests along the center of another plywood panel. The various panels are connected to each other with screws and nuts, so that the 5x10 cm bars are facing inwards. The board (i.e. all the glued plywood layers) must rest on two bars. At the end, the upper part of the press is placed on the table and everything is closed with screws, to create the concavity you want. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out the shape of the board and you will have your skate!
- Vacuum press: you have to insert the layers of plywood already shaped and glued. The vacuum press sucks all the air present, shaping the board according to the shape you have chosen. Leave the board in the press for 24 hours and you will eventually have your longboard. You can buy this tool online.
Part 3 of 5: Finishing the Board
Step 1. Cut out the silhouette of the board
Take one of the pieces of plywood and find the smoothest and best-looking one. This will be the underside of the longboard.
- Measure side-to-side to find the exact center of the board. Draw a longitudinal line in the center of the line that goes from the nose to the tail.
- Trace the edges of the paper template. Hold it against the wood with the help of a hand, clamps or a weight.
- Flip the board over and repeat the process on the other side.
- The profile of the longboard is now printed on the wood. Remove the stencil and check if the shape suits you.
Step 2. Sand everything
The board must be smooth without any scratches.
Step 3. Cover the board with a layer of polyurethane or fiberglass paint
Both of these products protect the paint from scratches. Go to different skateboarding and home improvement stores to compare prices and find out what products are available.
- If you have decided to use fiberglass, first you need to mix it with the hardener respecting the right proportions. Then spread a layer of resin on the side you painted; use a brush for this and try to get a uniform result. Remember to work quickly and accurately, because the fiberglass starts to harden in 15 minutes. Once applied, let it settle for 3-4 hours.
- If you have decided to use polyurethane paint, spread it evenly all over the board with a brush. The layer must be smooth; when done, wait 3-4 hours for the paint to dry before proceeding to the next steps.
Part 4 of 5: Decorate the Table
Step 1. Sand the board one last time using very fine grit sandpaper
At this point you can add any kind of drawing you like, with waterproof paint or markers.
Step 2. Consider painting the board
You can leave it natural, with the color of the wood, but the fact of coloring it will make it even more beautiful and personalized. Use duct tape or a stencil to outline the design. Paint the bottom of the board.
- Use spray paint. Cut out a stencil from a sheet of paper or cardstock, pick your colors, and spray the board with paint to create an even layer on the underside. Wait for each coat of paint to dry before retouching or using the longboard.
- Use regular acrylic paint. Make a draft of the design and then color it respecting the edges; paint the subject you prefer. Wait at least 20-60 minutes for the paint to dry.
- Use wood stain. If you want to create a schematic decoration with a few different shades, use three layers of stain for the darker areas and only one for the lighter ones. Once the product has dried, you can remove the masking tape you used as a stencil.
- Use permanent markers. Perhaps the decoration will be less colorful and durable than what you could make with paint, but the markers give you much more control when you draw the lines on the board.
Step 3. Add a final coat of polyurethane or fiberglass paint
This way you seal the design at the bottom of the board. You should use clear paint or fiberglass so the decoration will be clearly visible through the protective layer.
Step 4. Line the top with grip tape
Purchase enough to cover the entire length of the board. This material allows you to maintain excellent grip between your feet and the board itself even at high speeds. Apply it carefully, as if it were a large sticker. Remove any excess with a cutter. You have several possibilities:
- You can cover the entire top of the longboard with grip tape, this is the simplest method and your board will look normal.
- Cut out pieces of grip tape to create a decoration. Make sure you still have enough, so that your feet always have good grip. Generally speaking, at the end of the arrangement of the pieces of grip tape, the surface covered with this material should be greater than the uncovered one.
- Color the board and apply a transparent grip tape. The latter should be slightly opaque, but the color and main lines of the underlying decoration should show.
Step 5. If you love to skate barefoot, consider using wax (like the one used in surfing) to cover the board
This solution should only be put into practice if you plan not to use shoes often; remember that the wax wears out and must be reapplied.
Part 5 of 5: Attach the Trucks, Wheels and Ball Bearings
Step 1. Put the ball bearings inside the wheels
To do this, take each bearing and push it into each wheel. You won't be able to squeeze too deep, as there is a small barrier preventing you from doing so. Put the bearings in all four wheels.
Step 2. Mount the wheels on the trucks
Simply slide the wheels (where you previously inserted the ball bearings) onto the trucks; make sure the concave part of the wheels (if they have one) is facing out. Secure them to the trucks with the nuts provided in the package. The nuts must be tight enough to allow the wheels to rotate without coming off during use.
Step 3. Drill the holes for the trucks
Make sure they are straight or the trucks will not be aligned correctly.
Step 4. Secure the truck-wheel assembly to the table
You will need the spacer washers for this operation. Put the washers between the board and the truck. When orienting the trucks, make sure that the locking nut of the front one is towards the nose of the board and that the release nut of the rear truck is towards the tail. This arrangement in opposite directions allows you to curve in the right direction as you shift your body weight. Lock the trucks and spacer washers with four nuts each to assemble them to the board.
Step 5. Test your new longboard
When you've assembled the ball bearings, wheels and trucks, the board should be ready to slide on the road. Get on top to check that it can hold your weight. If it doesn't break, try moving along the sidewalks a bit. Thoroughly double check the integrity of each element of the board before venturing onto the street or very crowded sidewalks.
Advice
- Make sure that the surface of the board where you rest your feet guarantees a good grip, so that you do not fall.
- Try to give the nose a nice, wide shape, as you will be using this end for cornering. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 the length from the nose.
- Be creative. This is your board, so you can make it as you see fit. Be very careful, however, because in this case it is the precision that makes the finished product beautiful. If possible, try to make two copies.
Warnings
- Have fun and be careful when moving with the longboard.
- Always wear gloves to protect yourself from slips when doing stunts.
- Always remember the protections: a helmet, knee pads and wrist guards.
- Be careful that the board doesn't break in half. Before you can make a good quality one, you will have to take a few tries.
