The pancake foundation is thick, full-bodied, oily and wax-based, so it offers high coverage, actually much higher than that of classic cream-based products. As a result, it is often used for theatrical or other performances by professionals who will appear on stage or screen, such as models and actors. The purpose of the pancake foundation is to create a flawless, matte finish that can be seen from afar. The finish is also water resistant, so it can be used by those with very oily skin, without running the risk of sweat ruining it. It can be difficult to use this type of makeup at first, but the secret to achieving perfect coverage is to dose the right amount of water and blend properly.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Acquiring the Right Technique
Step 1. Moisten the sponge
The pancake foundation is activated with water and applied with a compact sponge. The beauty is that you can control the degree of coverage obtained by adding more or less water (if you use less, the final make-up will be less diluted and more covering).
- For even coverage, moisten the sponge and squeeze out any excess water.
- For light coverage, moisten the sponge and squeeze it lightly so it doesn't drip.
- Using more water allows you to dilute the product, but overdoing it can cause an uneven and streaky effect.
- Since pancake foundation can be quite opaque, you can use a color that is two or three tones lighter than your complexion.
Step 2. To remove the product, dab the sponge inside the foundation by exerting a slight pressure
For light coverage, do not press more than necessary: the weight of the water itself will allow you to take the right amount of product.
Step 3. Once you have taken the right amount of product, apply the foundation
Cover your face as much as possible before taking any more product. When the sponge runs out, brush it back into the foundation and continue.
- Apply foundation to cheeks, nose, chin, forehead and eyelids. If you use a tone that is visibly different from your complexion, cover your neck and ears as well.
- To get light coverage, make gentle, quick movements to apply just a thin layer of foundation.
Step 4. Once the application is complete on the entire face, squeeze the excess water out of the sponge and turn it over to begin blending with the clean side
Apply light pressure as you blend. Don't forget the area between the eyes, the inner corner of the eye, the mouth and the eye area.
When blending, try to achieve even coverage and remove streaks
Step 5. After blending, wait for the makeup to dry
If you prefer light coverage, dab it with a washcloth or handkerchief until wet to absorb excess foundation and water.
Step 6. Fix the makeup
Take a brush, a puff or a clean sponge and apply a veil of fixing or specific powder for the finish you want to obtain, or a powder foundation. Remove excess powder and perfect the result by wiping a sponge or powder puff over your face.
Before applying the powder, make sure the pancake foundation is completely dry
Part 2 of 2: Contouring with Pancake Foundation
Step 1. Find out what it is
Contouring is a technique that involves applying makeup that is darker and lighter than your complexion on various parts of the face in order to brighten certain parts and distract attention from others. You can use for example:
- Darker products under the cheekbones to visibly lengthen and slim the face.
- Lighter products above the cheekbones to make them stand out.
- Darker products on the jaw to make the face less wide.
- Both light and dark products can make the nose narrower.
- These products can also help you make your eyes stand out.
Step 2. Choose the tones
The process for contouring with pancake products is the same as for the classic foundation, only you have to use multiple colors to brighten and darken the features. You'll need the pancake foundation you usually use (perfect for your skin tone), one to brighten and one to darken.
- The basic pancake foundation should suit your complexion or the color you want your complexion to have.
- For contouring, choose a color that is a couple of tones darker than the pancake foundation you usually use.
- To brighten, choose a pancake foundation a couple of tones lighter than what you usually use. If you want it to cover red or dark spots as well, opt for a tone that has green undertones.
Step 3. Wash and moisturize your face
Wash it with a mild cleanser to remove oil, sweat and dirt. Pat it dry and apply an oil-free moisturizer or toner. Let the cream absorb for about five minutes.
If there are residues of water, sebum, dirt or sweat on the skin, the foundation will not adhere well, so that's why you need to start with a clean base free of greasy matter
Step 4. Contour to highlight the cheekbones
If you want to slim down your face and highlight your cheekbones, you can contour. When using a pancake foundation, remember to proceed a little faster than usual, as you need to blend the entire product. Moisten a thin sponge.
- Draw a thin line of highlighter above the cheekbone, working from the center of the cheek to where the eyebrow ends.
- With the darker foundation, draw a finger-thick line below the cheekbone, starting at the ear and working towards the corner of the mouth. Do not extend it beyond the pupil.
- Make sure you use a separate sponge for each color.
Step 5. Define the lower jaw for a sculpted effect and hide excess fat under the chin
Apply the darker foundation to the jaw and underneath with a sponge. Do this on both sides of the face.
- Start from the ear and follow the entire jaw to the chin. To make your chin look tighter, taper the line as you get closer, so it doesn't follow the curve.
- To hide the excess fat under the chin, apply the foundation following the jaw even under the chin.
Step 6. Make your nose smaller
Draw a line of highlighter in the center of the nose, from the area between the eyebrows to the tip.
With the darker foundation, draw a line on each side of the nose, working from the inner end of the eyebrow to the tip. When you get to the tip, taper the parting slightly inwards
Step 7. Define the forehead
Draw a thin line of dark foundation along the forehead, exactly below the hairline. Make it a little thicker in the area above the brow curve.
Step 8. You can also highlight other parts of the face by applying a veil of highlighter
For example, tap a little bit to create a circle in the center of the chin, draw a small V between the eyebrows and dab a veil on Cupid's bow (the groove on the lower lip).
To make your eyes stand out, apply the highlighter under them creating a semicircle
Step 9. Apply regular foundation and blend
Dampen a regular (not thin) sponge and apply foundation to the parts of your face where you haven't put highlighter or contoured. At this point, turn the sponge and immediately start blending, so as not to have sharp lines, uneven spots or abrupt changes in color.
Step 10. Apply powder
After blending the three colors, let your makeup dry, then apply a setting powder, a finishing powder or a powder foundation. Blend the powder with the brush or sponge.
