Growing an oak tree from acorn is an easy procedure that will allow you to have a healthy and strong specimen to place in your garden. Plus, it's a great opportunity to teach children about the life cycle of trees, showing them the steps that make this little miracle of nature possible. Ideally, cultivation should start in early autumn.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Choosing and Planting Acorns
Step 1. Collect green acorns in early autumn
The best ones are harvested in the first half of autumn before they fall from the tree - choose them free of worms, holes and fungi. The most suitable acorns should be brownish with slight shades of green, although their appearance can vary depending on the type of oak they come from. A good rule of thumb is that acorns are ready for harvesting when they can be removed from the hat without having to pluck them.
- Note that the hat is not part of the acorn, but a protective (separate) coating. Removing the acorn from the hat does not damage it, unless you tear the acorn itself.
-
If possible, look for suitable trees in the summer. We recommend adult trees whose acorns are easily accessible by ladder or a long pole.
Some oak varieties, such as red ones, have acorns that take two years to mature, not one. When you have found suitable trees in the summer, keep this in mind: the acorns on some oaks will be ready in the fall, while on others they won't be ready until the following year
Step 2. Perform a "buoyancy test"
Put the green acorns in a bucket of water for a couple of minutes. Discard any that float.
- An acorn may float because it is hollowed out by a worm, thus creating an air hole. Likewise, it could float due to a fungus.
- If, at some point, you notice that an acorn is soft to the touch, discard it. Soft, mushy acorns are rotten.
Step 3. Hibernate the remaining acorns
Remove the "good" acorns from the water and dry them. Place them in a large zippered bag with moist sawdust, vermiculite, a peat mix, or some other growth medium that can retain moisture. You should be able to pack up to 250 acorns into the bags. Place the bag in the refrigerator for a month and a half or more until the new oak germinates.
- This operation is called stratification and simply consists of exposing the seed to low temperatures. This way, the seeds will be ready to germinate in the spring.
- Check the acorns periodically. The medium should be just barely moist. If there is too much moisture, the acorns could rot. If it is too dry, they may not grow.
Step 4. Keep an eye on the growth of your acorns
Even if stored in the refrigerator, most acorns will begin to germinate in the presence of moisture. The root end may begin to crack around the shell in early December (late fall, early winter). Regardless of whether the root has cracked, the acorn is ready to plant after about 40 - 45 days of storage.
Handle seedlings carefully - newly sprouted roots are easily damaged
Step 5. Plant each acorn in a pot or container
For your plants, take gardening pots with a fairly small diameter (5cm) (or, if you prefer, large polystyrene cups or milk cartons). Fill them with a good quality of potting soil (some sources even recommend adding some bits of sphagnum moss). For irrigation purposes, leave a few inches of space at the top. Plant your acorn just below the surface with the root down.
- If you are using a Styrofoam box or milk carton, drill holes in the sides near the bottom so that the water can drain out.
- If you prefer, you can also try simply burying the acorn in the yard. Bury the root and gently tuck it to one side on top of rich, soft soil. This only works if the tap root is already well established, long and has properly detached from the acorn. Warning - this leaves the seedling vulnerable to mice, squirrels, etc.
Step 6. Wet the seedling
Water it until water comes out of the holes in the bottom of the container. Over the next few weeks, Water frequently, never allowing the soil to dry out. At this stage of their growth, you will need to keep the seedlings indoors. Place them on a south-facing windowsill where they can soak up the winter sun. You may not notice visible rapid growth right away. This is because, during the first phase of its life, the plant develops its taproot under the surface of the earth.
- If you live in the Southern Hemisphere, place the seedlings on a north-facing windowsill instead.
- If the seedling does not get much sun, use an indoor grow lamp to make up for the lack of adequate light.
Part 2 of 3: Transplanting the Seedlings
Step 1. Track the growth of the plant
Sources of gardening differ on the next steps to take - some recommend planting the seedlings directly into the ground after a few weeks of growth in a pot or cup, while others recommend gradually increasing the plant's exposure to the weather every day. opened, before placing it in the ground. Still others recommend transplanting the seedling into a larger pot, allowing it to grow further and then plant it in the ground. While there is no one-size-fits-all correct way to decide when to transplant a seedling into the ground, there are characteristics to consider when deciding when to transplant seedlings. Here are some signs to consider for transplantation:
- They are about 10-15 cm tall, with leaflets
- They have white, healthy-looking roots
- They seem to be outgrowing their container
- They demonstrated substantial taproot growth
- They range in age from a few weeks to a few months
Step 2. Wait for the seedlings to harden before planting them outside
Moving them outside without them being used to the environment can kill them. A week or two before planting them outside, put them outside for a few hours. Gradually increase the time they are out on a day-to-day basis for the weeks to come. After this transition period, the seedlings will be ready to be transplanted outside.
Make sure the seedlings are protected from the wind
Step 3. Choose a place to plant them
Location is everything - pick it so your oak tree has room to grow and doesn't become a hindrance when it grows. When choosing the site for your oak tree, some things to consider are:
- The availability of sunlight. Like all photosynthetic plants, oaks need the sun to survive, so you don't have to plant them in shady areas.
- Avoid sidewalks, waterways, underground pipes, etc. You certainly won't want to kill your tree if you have to do some maintenance work in your yard.
-
The shading effect of the adult tree. If you want your oak tree to provide shade for your home, plant it in the west or southwest to maximize the shading effect in the summer and reduce it in the winter.
Note - in the southern hemisphere, the tree should be on the west or northwest side of the house to achieve the shading effect
- Nearby vegetation. Plants compete with each other for sun, moisture, and other resources. Don't plant your young oak right next to other substantial vegetation or it may not reach maturity.
Step 4. Prepare the site for planting
Once you've chosen a good spot for your tree, clear any minor vegetation within 1 meter. Use a shovel to flip the earth to a depth of about 10 inches, breaking all the larger sods. If the soil isn't moist, you'll be better off dampening it or waiting for it to rain before planting your tree.
Step 5. Dig a trench
In the center of your one meter circle, dig a hole, 60 - 90cm deep and 30cm wide. The precise depth of your trench will depend on the length of your seedling's taproot - it should be deep enough to accommodate it.
Step 6. Transplant the oak
With the taproot facing down and the leaves facing up, gently place the oak in the hole you have prepared. Make sure it is deep enough to accommodate the oak roots. Replace the earth around the plant, compacting it slightly. Water the seedling after transplanting it.
- Compact the soil around the oak seedling, pushing it aside so that the water does not pool near the trunk of the tree, which can be harmful.
- Lay bark mulch around the tree, about 30 inches apart to help the soil retain moisture and discourage weed growth. Make sure it doesn't touch the trunk of the tree.
- To increase the chances of a planting success, it is recommended to arrange multiple acorns in the same area. In this case, plant the young seedlings directly into the ground by cleaning an area of 60 x 60 cm and placing two acorns in that space, with 2.5 - 5 cm of soil on top.
Part 3 of 3: Caring for a Growing Oak
Step 1. Protect young and fragile oaks, which are a food source for many herbivorous animals
They are a typical snack for squirrels and mice, which can easily dig. The seedlings are also vulnerable to rabbits, deer, and other animals who like to eat leaves. To ensure your young oaks aren't devoured, take some preventative measures to protect them. Create a fence around the trunks of younger trees with wire or sturdy plastic to prevent animals from reaching them.
- If you live in a deer-populated area, you may want to consider fencing the top of the tree as well.
- You may also want to use pesticides to protect your tree from a variety of pests, including aphids and June bugs. Use caution when selecting pesticides - only use those that are not harmful to your oak tree or family.
Step 2. Water the trees during the driest periods
The long taproot of the oak allows moisture to be extracted from the depth of the soil even when the soil surface is completely dry. During the winter and wet months, it is usually not necessary to water the oaks. However, when the trees are young, hot, dry weather can be harmful. A drip irrigation system is a useful way to give young oak trees water when they need it most. Water your tree with about 10 liters of water via the distribution system every seven days for two weeks. Water it during the hottest and driest months for about two years, decreasing the frequency of watering according to the growth of the tree.
Remember not to allow water to pool around the base of the tree. Arrange your sprinkler system to drip water around the tree, but not directly onto the base, where it can cause rot
Step 3. Care for the tree less and less as it grows
As the oak grows stronger and deepens its roots, you will need to care for it less. Eventually, it will be large and tall enough to protect itself from animals, and its roots will be deep enough to survive the summer without any irrigation. Slowly, over the course of several years, try to reduce the amount of care you give your tree (except watering during dry months and animal protection). Eventually, it should be able to thrive without showing any signs of suffering. Enjoy the everlasting gift you have given to yourself and your family!
Within 20 years, the oak will be able to begin producing its own acorns, although, depending on the species, optimal acorn growth may not occur until the age of 50
Advice
- Create a cover around the seedling to prevent animals from eating it.
- Younger oaks also lose their leaves in the fall, so don't be discouraged when you see the leaflets darken and fall. Wait for the return of spring!
- Look for the plant that produced the acorn to make sure it is healthy and beautiful. Use an acorn from a better tree if the first one is not in good condition.
