Proper chemical water balance is absolutely necessary to keep a pool safe and clean for its users, and maintaining concentrations of certain chemicals can save the pool owner time and money. By following these steps, any owner can maintain their pool with the same results as an expensive professional cleaning service.
Steps
Step 1. Determine what kind of chlorine you should use
Chlorine, which kills bacteria, algae and microorganisms, can be bought in bottles, tablets of different sizes, in sticks and in granular form; however, if you check the labels, you will see that the active ingredient is exactly the same in all of these products. Despite the wide range of prices, the only difference you will be able to spot is in fact the active ingredient concentrate. This ingredient in the tablets is referred to as "trichloro" (or trichloro-S-triazinetrione), while in the granular version it is called "dichloro" (or sodium-dichloro-S-triazinetrione).
Step 2. The most common form of chlorine (and therefore the least expensive) is the 200 or 250g tablet, which dissolves slowly and needs little maintenance
The sticks melt even more slowly, but they are not as widespread. Smaller tablets dissolve faster than 250g tablets and are more suitable for above ground pools, small inground pools and whirlpools. Look for a concentration of 90% of trichloro-S-triazinetrione in the chlorine tablets / tablets.
Step 3. Note that inexpensive "convenience box" tablets tend to have binders and fillers that hold the tablet together
You can see the difference in the way they melt: cheap tablets tend to crumble or break in 2 or 3 days instead of gradually dissolving while retaining their original shape.
Step 4. Chlorine in granules works as well as the tablets or tablets already mentioned; however, inorganic chlorine such as calcium hypochlorite must be pre-dissolved in a bucket of water before being poured into the pool
It also needs to be added to the pool practically every day. Other types of organic chlorine (sodium dichloro) or inorganic lithium hypochlorite do not need the pre-solution process. These allow you to have a very precise control over the chlorine level of the pool but constantly require daily tests and the relative addition of the chemical substance. Look for a concentration of 56% -62% of sodium dichloro-S-triazinetrione in the chlorine in granules'.
Step 5. Use cyanuric acid carefully
Cyanuric acid (CYA, also called isocyanuric acid) is found in dichloro / trichloric tablets. Although it is a stabilizing ingredient that prevents chlorine from being destroyed by the sun, it does so at the expense of the efficacy (Redox Potential) of the chlorine itself. If you use cyanuric acid, be sure to check its concentration. If the concentration is too high, the chlorine will completely lose its disinfecting ability.
Step 6. Some recent studies show that it is necessary to maintain the concentration of CYA within and not above 40 ppm for the effectiveness of chlorine to perform better (high levels of CYA contribute to increasing the total concentration of dissolved solids which interfere with the activity of chlorine)
Step 7. If you choose not to use cyanuric acid, look for calcium hypochlorite (solid) or sodium hypochlorite (liquid)
You should put an extra effort in and check the pH of your pool as well - these two compounds are highly basic and will raise the pH when used in sufficient quantities.
Step 8. Add the chlorine to the pool water
The floating chlorine dispensers and automatic chemical dispensing systems, which can be purchased from any specialist retailer, slowly dissolve the tablets in your pool water. Automatic chlorine dispensing systems are a great support for performing pool maintenance. Chemical dispensers slowly dissolve precise amounts of chlorine into your pool water automatically, and offer very precise control over the amount of chlorine released into the pool. If a regulator is set up correctly, you won't need to worry about the chlorine concentration for at least a week.
Step 9. Always avoid throwing the tablets directly into the water or leaving them in the basket filter of the pool (although there are some brands that produce tablets that dissolve only when the water passes over them)
If a chlorine tablet dissolves in the skimmer, all the water that passes through the pipes and the water recirculation system of your pool will have a high level of chlorine. This high concentration of chlorine (which greatly lowers the pH of the water) slowly corrodes the inside of the pipes and causes a more rapid consumption of the components of the filters and of the pool pump.
Step 10. Shock the pool once every 7/15 days. As it cleans the water, chlorine binds to other chemicals such as ammonia and nitrogen, which not only make it inactive but also create an irritant that can lead to skin damage and infections. To eliminate these chlorine compounds, occasional treatment with a shock dose (Shock Chlorination) is required.
Step 11. The next day, add a preventive dose of algaecide
Algaecides are special detergents that act on the surface of the pool water to prevent algae from growing.
Step 12. Maintain proper pH value
This is as crucial as putting chlorine in the water. The pH level in your pool should have the same value as that of human tears, 7.2, or at least between 7.2-7.6 to be considered an optimal value. Chlorine is about 10 times more effective at disinfecting water with a pH of 7.2. PH is best measured with a drip test kit, rather than litmus paper, the result of which is easy to misrepresent.
Step 13. Very often the pH level will be high; the best way to lower it is by slowly pouring muriatic acid (i.e. hydrochloric acid diluted in water) directly into the deep part of the pool while the pump is running and the water is circulating
However, using granulated acid is a safer alternative to muriatic acid.
Step 14. When adjusting the pH, proceed for small amounts and then double check the value after about 6 hours of continuous filtration
Readjust if necessary. This will prevent you from overdoing the doses. If you have a serious problem of changes in the pH value it is typically due to too low total alkalinity; once properly adjusted, the pH should remain stable over a period of 1-3 weeks depending on rainfall, usage, etc.
Step 15. If pool users have burning eyes, it is more likely that the pH value is too high or too low and not a high concentration of them
Step 16. Check the water parameters at least twice a week to make sure the chemical balance is okay
Always keep the chlorine level in your pool around 1-3 ppm and the low maintenance swimming season is guaranteed!
Advice
- Always adjust the levels of the chemical elements present in your pool in alphabetical order: Alkalinity, Bromine or Chlorine, then the pH.
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If chloramine or other chlorine compounds are allowed to build up, it will become more difficult to break them down or keep them under control, thus causing problems such as bad odor, cloudy water, eye and skin irritation, algae growth etc. Up to the point that the amount of chlorine will never be enough: in fact, when there is a demand for chlorine, it becomes difficult to keep it at a safe level and an enormous amount of chlorine is required to satisfy the demand (it can easily reach 25 kg in 75 cubic meters of water). If the demand is not met, the problem will become more and more serious as more chlorine will react to form more chloroamine. Special Note:
Much of the public (drinking) water is currently treated using chloramines, which only makes the problem worse.
- A professional check should be done 3 to 5 times each season; must include further advanced analyzes generally not available to ordinary consumers: total chlorine levels versus free chlorine, cyanuric acid, acid demand, alkaline demand, effective total alkalinity, calcium hardness, water temperature (affects the entire balance), residual fixed, levels of iron, copper and quaternary ammonia compounds or algaecide levels.
- Adding borates to the water of a swimming pool or whirlpool at a concentration of 50 ppm can work as a secondary stabilizer of the pH to minimize fluctuations and also make the water take on a softer and more fluid consistency.
- To prevent acidity or fouling conditions, check the Langelier saturation index to determine the general parameters of the water.
- The difference between chlorine and bromine is that when chlorine combines with harmful bacteria or microorganisms to eliminate them, it is mostly consumed and can no longer function as a disinfectant. These chlorine compounds are "burned" when shock treatment is applied and removed from the water via the filter system. When bromine combines with bacteria in pool water, its principle remains active despite being chemically linked to harmful substances and contaminating bacteria. Shock treatment in a bromine pool will "burn" only the harmful contaminants, leaving a good portion of the bromine in the pool water. For this reason, with the same result, the amount of bromine needed is much less than that of chlorine
- There are distinct advantages and disadvantages of using bromine. Bromine is considered better by some pool owners as it is much less irritating to the eyes and skin. Many pool owners with more sensitive skin prefer bromine; however bromine is in the same periodic group as chlorine (halogens), so it would still be of little use to those allergic to chlorine. The downside to bromine is that this chemical is far more expensive than chlorine. Due to its stability, it can also be more difficult to wash the smell off your skin or costume. Overall, bromine is not a great alternative to chlorine for sizeable pools, so consider it mostly for smaller installations like whirlpools or Jacuzzis. Bromine is available in tablets and can be added to swimming pool water using a chemical dispenser to dissolve the tablet. Special Note: Bromine CANNOT be stabilized with cyanuric acid - don't even try.
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Another alternative to chlorine is a polymer (polyhexanide) sold under the name of baquacil, where the active ingredient is biguanidine. While it is less easy to use and more expensive, it may be the best alternative for those who are intolerant to chlorine as even sea (salt) water systems produce chlorine. If you use baquacil disinfectant you can still use any brand for pH balance or calcium control. Special Note:
baquacil CANNOT be stabilized with cyanuric acid.
- Another method to disinfect the pool is to use saline chlorinators. A small concentration of salt is developed in the pool which is then converted to chlorine in the pool control box, thus keeping the pool disinfected over time. Just be sure to check the pH level of your pool as the chemical reactions that take place using this method will raise its value and you will therefore need to lower it using muriatic acid. Incorrect installation of the salt / chlorine generators can lead to other water problems such as corrosion of the surface of walls, metal parts, accessories (also in stainless steel) of the pool, etc.
- Do not attempt to "convert" pool bromine into chlorine, not even "saline" chlorine. It is not possible. The chlorine formed will simply regenerate the bromine.
Warnings
- These chemicals are dangerous, keep them out of the reach of children!
- Always leave an interval of at least 2 hours between the additions of different substances to the pool to avoid any unwanted reactions and to maximize the effect of the substances.
- Always add chlorine to the water and not water to the chlorine, as this can generate a violent reaction.
- Muriatic acid is probably the most suitable choice for decreasing the pH value, but it generates toxic fumes and should be handled with extreme caution. Granular sodium bisulfate (sodium hydrogen sulfate) is a safer and more suitable alternative for those with a swimming pool at home.
- Always follow the instructions on the label provided by the manufacturer.
