Shearing a horse means shaving it all or just a part of its coat. It is usually done on moving horses even in winter, to prevent them from overheating too much. The type of clipping (i.e. how much hair to remove) depends on how intense the horse's activity will be and how thick its coat becomes. By shearing it, it will take less time for the horse to lower its temperature and grooming will be easier.
Shearing is often part of an exhibition. It highlights the elegance of the animal and enhances its appearance during the show. In this case, it is practiced both in summer and in winter.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Choose the Clipping
Step 1. Shearing of the Belly
For this type, you will remove the hair from the front of the neck and belly. This is usually done on ponies that live outdoors and are only ridden on weekends. The stubborn ones may not need to be clipped unless the weather is really bad.
Step 2. High or low trace clipping
The coat is sheared in the lower part of the neck and belly. As the definition suggests, the high one removes the cloak up to a higher line. Sometimes the lower half of the muzzle is also sheared. The legs remain intact. This cut is suitable for horses that move regularly but in moderation and stay outside during the day.
Step 3. Irish Clipping
A line is drawn from the top of the muzzle to the belly, creating a triangle. Half of the muzzle is also often shorn. The legs remain untouched. It is performed on horses that do light work and stay outside during the day.
Step 4. Blanket Clipping
It is similar to the trace, but the neck is completely shaved while the head can be only half shaved. The legs remain untouched. It's good for hard-working horses, as it removes hair right where it sweats but leaves enough to keep it warm.
Step 5. Hunting Shearing
Everything is removed except the horsehair from the legs to leave a minimum of protection. Sometimes a part is left on the back, less often in the girth, to protect against saddle rubbing. Since most of the hair is removed, special care must be taken to prevent the horse from getting too cold in this case.
Step 6. Full Clipping
The horse is completely shaved. It is performed on show and competition horses, to give the smooth coat the ability to quickly and easily evaporate sweat. It should only be done to those horses that do not stay outside even at night in winter.
Method 2 of 4: Prepare the Horse
Step 1. Groom your horse
Dirt and debris will hinder shaving, so best brush it well first. Whenever possible, take a bath in the evening before clipping to remove as much dirt as possible.
Step 2. Draw the areas you want to mow
Use chalk or painter's tape to mark out the sections you intend to proceed with. Make sure you make straight, well-defined lines.
Step 3. Make sure your horse is not afraid of the razor sound
Being a buzz, it could scare him, especially if the horse has never been shorn yet. Let him see the car, turn it on and off a couple of times while holding it in front (but away) of his nose. Let me know where that buzz is coming from.
Step 4. Get your horse used to the vibrations
Along with the sound, the sensation of the machine on his skin could also scare him. Test the horse by turning it on and placing it with the handle part against its side. This way he will feel the vibrations without being clipped.
If your horse is particularly afraid, place your hand on his hip while holding the handle of the machine. The vibrations will travel through your hand and you can feel them indirectly on your skin
Method 3 of 4: Prepare the Razors
Step 1. Prepare at least two razors
Generally, at least two are recommended. You will need one for larger areas and a smaller one for more sensitive areas such as around the muzzle.
Step 2. Sharpen the blades
When you mow, a sharp blade makes the process easier. If you're using new machines, you probably won't need to sharpen the blades. If they are old, make sure the blades are in place, eventually bring them to sharpen or do it yourself.
Step 3. Clean and oil the blades
Check that there is nothing entangled that slows down or prevents the cut: dirt and mud would make the operation slower and more difficult. When the blades are clean, coat them with oil and let them vacuum for 10-20 seconds. So when you shear, everything will go smoothly.
Step 4. Pay attention to the temperature that the machines reach
They have to stay in that environment: if they overheat they don't work well. In this case, turn them off and let them cool for a few minutes before using them again.
Method 4 of 4: Clipping the Horse
Step 1. Start from the least sensitive areas
First shear a part of the body where the horse does not feel tickled. For example the neck or the hips.
Step 2. Start mowing
Turn on the machine by holding it away from the horse's body and let it go for a few seconds. Then start clipping it by moving it in the opposite direction to the direction of growth of the hair. Try to keep straight lines and remove entire parts before moving to other sections. Check that you don't irritate the horse with the corners of the razor.
Step 3. Continue cutting strips
Do long, narrow sections for better results. At each step, retrace part of the previous strip, so as not to have discontinuous ones. When you reach a point where the hair grows in the opposite direction, change the angle to cut it properly.
Step 4. Be careful when you are near the tail and mane
When you get close to these two areas, part your hair to avoid accidentally cutting them. If you need to, get a friend to help you hold the sides of your hair to make your job easier.
Step 5. Cut the head last
If the style you have chosen also requires head clipping, keep it for last. In this way, even the animal's anxiety will not grow. Remember to change the razor for this and other sensitive parts.
Step 6. Trim the remaining hair
If you don't do full clipping, there will be areas where the horse still has the coat and therefore where the hair will be a bit long. Using a pair of shears, cut the ones that are too long, usually around the legs.
Step 7. Clean up
The hair on the ground must be collected and removed. Since they do not settle quickly, they should not be thrown into compost or fertilizer. Throw them in the undifferentiated.
Step 8. Cover the horse
Since he won't be used to the sudden temperature change now that he has less hair, he will need to be covered when you take him outside. Generally, a small blanket will suffice. If it is very cold, however, a heavy winter one will be needed.
Advice
- If you intend to clip the horse completely at once, which is not recommended especially for the first clipping, keep some extra blades handy, in case the first ones you use come out.
- Clipping machines get hot. Be sure to cool them with the proper fluid. Turn them off and wait if necessary.
- Start by shearing only the belly, then do a low track, a high one, a blanket, a chase and finally the full clipping, stopping when you find the one that suits your horse. Going step by step, if your horse gets impatient, you get tired, the blades dull, etc. you could finish later and the horse would still be presentable.
- Don't clip your horse the day before a show, do it a week before.
- Avoid shearing out of season, in early or mid-spring, as it will interfere with the growth of the summer coat.
- If you're using new blades, you may need more than one because they'll pop out quickly.
- Don't shear for the first time right before an important event or exhibition. If you want your horse to look its best, ask those with more experience to do the work for you. Your first time will probably be a bit of a mess.
Warnings
- Be careful not to cut the horse.
- Always use a circuit breaker when using something electric near a horse.
- Some horses fear or dislike being clipped but, unless essential to their health and well-being, sedation is not justifiable.
- While razors and clippers look the same, classic razors aren't powerful enough for a horse. You should choose a light or medium power machine depending on how much you want to cut. The very powerful ones are for professionals or for those who have to shear many horses.
