Repairing a dent in the bodywork is a very costly intervention, especially if the vehicle also needs to be painted later. If the blemishes and indentations are small, you may be able to remove them yourself, using common hand tools or chemicals widely available in stores. Remember that in this case opting for "do it yourself" could cause damage to the paint and make repairs even more expensive in the long run. Assess whether or not you are able to repair the dent, based on your knowledge of the procedure and the dexterity with which you use the necessary tools.
Steps
Method 1 of 4: Repair the dent with a plunger
Step 1. Assess the extent of the damage and its location
This method works best with large but shallow dents found on flat body components, such as a door or hood. Regardless of whether you choose to use a bathroom plunger or a professional body repair tool, know that this tool is unable to smooth out deep incisions on steel, only to "snap" the sunken sheet out.
- If the dent is smaller than a coin, this technique is unlikely to lead to any results.
- The flatter the body panel, the more effective the plunger is.
Step 2. Purchase a clean suction cup
You can use the one for the bathroom with results similar to those offered by a professional tool available in auto parts stores. Plungers designed specifically for the bodywork have a higher success rate with difficult dents.
- Use a clean plunger to avoid damaging the car paint with residue.
- Those for professional use are often more expensive than those for the home.
Step 3. Wet the edge of the gum
Use a little water and a rag to wet the surface of the suction cup; in this way, you improve the adhesion between the car and the plunger, which allows you to pull the tool and return the body to its original shape.
Be sure to use only clean water to avoid damaging the paint
Step 4. Apply the suction cup to the dent and press
If the damage is more extensive than the circumference of the rubber dome, start working on the edges of the dent; if it is smaller, place the suction cup right above the recess. Press the plunger onto the car.
- If the damage is large, it may be necessary to repeat the procedure several times from different angles.
- When placing the plunger along the side of the dent, make sure its edges are resting on both the recessed and flat surfaces.
Step 5. Pull the plunger repeatedly
Make short, sudden movements, just like when you want to unclog the toilet. The cup may lose its grip before the recess is eliminated; so be prepared to have to moisten the gum again and start over.
- It may take several attempts to "suck up" the metal and return it to its original position.
- When working on the steel bodywork, you can get the best results thanks to quick and short movements.
Method 2 of 4: Remove Dents with Dry Ice
Step 1. Check the slope of the damage
Dry ice needs to be applied briefly to get rid of the dent; it is therefore more effective on horizontal surfaces, such as the bonnet, roof or trunk lid. If the recess is on one side, you need to hold the ice in place with tongs.
- You can buy dry ice from chemical retailers or pharmacies.
- This method is most effective with medium-sized damage and does not lead to great results with large ones.
Step 2. Put on gloves and safety glasses
When handling dry ice always use thick gloves and goggles to protect your hands and eyes; as this material reaches an extremely low temperature, direct contact with bare skin can cause serious injury.
- For this repair you need to use thick rubber gloves and wraparound goggles.
- Do not open the dry ice pack until you have put on the safety gear.
Step 3. Take kitchen tongs to place a small piece of dry ice directly on the dent
If this is on a horizontal surface, you can simply leave the ice on it; if not, you have to support it with pliers. Maintain contact for 30-60 seconds before pushing the ice away.
- If you have to hold it on a vertical surface, always use pliers and wear gloves to avoid chilblains.
- Do not leave it on the painted bodywork for more than a minute, otherwise it could damage it.
Step 4. Wait for the dented surface to react to ambient air
After removing the dry ice, the ambient heat should interact with the extreme cold generated by solid carbon dioxide. In response to these temperature changes, the metal should return to its original position.
- The intense cold causes the metal to contract, which then expands again as it warms up.
- These quick changes smooth out the dent.
Step 5. Repeat the process if necessary
Depending on the size of the damage, you may be forced to apply dry ice several times and heat the metal to get rid of the dent. continue like this until you are satisfied with the result.
- Let the metal reach room temperature before "freezing" it again.
- Pay attention to the clear coat on the bodywork; if it starts to crack, stop applying ice immediately.
Method 3 of 4: Push the Metal from the Inside
Step 1. Check the location of the damage
In some cases, it is better to manage dents by accessing the back of the metal, especially when they are very small and difficult to remove with other methods. Determine if the recess is somewhere you can access by removing body parts.
- You probably need to remove something in order to work on the back of the dent.
- Consider if you can access this area with the tools at your disposal and with your level of experience in the body shop.
Step 2. Disassemble the panels as needed
When you have identified the ones you need to remove in order to close the recess from the inside, place blankets on the floor for all the painted components you need to remove. You may also need to detach the fenders from the underbody, the wheels, the headlights or the rear bumper.
- Be careful not to lose any piece of hardware that is needed to secure the components you removed.
- Never place painted parts on the asphalt without first spreading a blanket or other protective material.
Step 3. Find the back of the dent
When you can reach the rear, lift the car if necessary and find the dent spot from the inside; you may need a flashlight to see the inside.
- Find the damage and take a position that allows you to achieve it.
- You may need to try different postures to be able to exert the necessary force on the recess.
Step 4. Apply pressure to the inside using your hands and "snap" the metal back into its original position
For small diameter dents, you need to press with a harder surface, such as the hammer handle.
- Try to tap the indentation outward with a sledgehammer, but only as a last resort.
- By applying pressure, there is less chance of damaging the metal than hitting it with a hammer.
Step 5. Use a wooden mallet covered with a cloth to beat the dent back
Wrap a rag around the head of the wooden tool to soften the impact surface and hit the inside of the metal; repeat several times to smooth out the depression.
- Be careful not to hit the inside of the metal in a diagonal direction, otherwise the side of the club could create creases in the body.
- Do not continue hammering even after the dent has snapped out, as this may cause the metal to protrude slightly.
Method 4 of 4: Use a Glue Extractor
Step 1. Insert the plug of the hot glue gun into the electrical outlet
Pullers typically use regular hot glue to adhere to the vehicle. You need to connect the gun to the electrical system a few minutes before starting, so that it gets hot enough and the glue can melt.
- Make sure the extension is sufficient to allow you to bring the gun close to the vehicle.
- At the end of the work you will have to apply the wax to the bodywork again.
Step 2. Choose the extractor that best fits the size of the dent
When you choose to use this tool - which you can buy in auto parts stores - you need to make sure it is the correct size based on the size of the damage; typically, you need to use one that goes all the way into the recess to pull the metal out of the center of the depression.
Follow the instructions on the package, to be able to choose the best extractor for your specific case
Step 3. Apply glue to the extractor and place the extractor in the center of the damage
Smear in some hot glue of your choice and then quickly adhere the tool to the dented bodywork, right in the center. Hold it in place for a few moments to let the adhesive harden.
- Don't worry if some glue comes out of the extractor edges when you press it onto the metal.
- Hold it in place until the glue has dried enough to keep it in place.
Step 4. Attach the puller to the mechanism
Slide the tool bracket onto the extractor to allow the two brackets to be on each side of the dent. If the kit you bought has several brackets, use one that is longer than the diameter of the recess so that the brackets are at least 1.5 cm from the edge of the recess.
- The brackets must be on the outside of the dent in order to pull it out.
- If the bracket is no larger than the damage, this method will not work.
Step 5. Rotate the knob until the metal clicks into its original position
Put the knob on the end of the extractor you glued to the body; rotate it clockwise to tighten it and pull the extractor towards the bracket which, consequently, drags the metal with it. Keep turning the knob until the hollow is evened out.
- The glue may break while you use the mechanism; if that happens, remove the old sticker and start over.
- You may have to repeat the procedure more than once to completely get rid of the damage.
Step 6. Remove the adhesive with isopropyl alcohol
Remove any glue residue with your fingers and then use alcohol to dissolve the last traces. It is likely that this liquid will also wash off the wax layer and even the transparent varnish layer; so remember to apply some wax as soon as possible.
