The freehand razor consists of a blade mounted on a handle and was used before the safety model was invented; if you use one, you need to be very careful to reduce the risk of cutting yourself. Before proceeding, moisturize your face with warm water and apply a shaving soap with a brush. Keep the blade tilted on the skin and move it with slow and controlled passages; you have to run it over your face two or three times and sharpen the blade before the next shave. Once you become familiar with this type of razor, you will be able to perform a much closer shave than you can get with a safety razor.
Steps
Part 1 of 4: Creating the Foam
Step 1. Moisturize your face with warm water
Take a hot shower and let the water run over your face for 5 minutes; in this way you dilate the pores and soften the hair, making shaving easier. You can also wrap a small warm towel around your face like barbers do with their clients; dip it in hot water and adhere it to your face until it cools.
Step 2. Rub a pre-shave oil on your face
A quality product simplifies the process. Look for one made with natural oils, such as jojoba, coconut, olive, or sunflower; works by softening your beard and preventing the razor from sticking while you shave.
Step 3. Dip the shaving brush in warm water
Fill a shaving bowl or cup with water. make sure it's hot enough to soften the bristles. Leave the brush in the liquid for a minute or two, then grab it and shake it with a firm flick of the wrist to remove excess water.
- The best quality shaving brush is made from badger hair; the boar one is cheaper, while the one with synthetic bristles is by far the worst.
- You can spread the soap or cream over your facial hair with your fingers, but using the brush makes it easier.
Step 4. Insert the shaving cream or soap into the bottom of the cup
Throw away the water inside and replace it with a splash of cream the size of a dime or put all the soap in it. The latter is the cheapest option and is made with a mixture of high-fat glycerin and vegetable oils; creams are quite similar to soaps and you should look for one with natural essential oils, such as jojoba or coconut.
Avoid common shaving gels and foams; although you can use them, they don't offer a good shave like you get with soaps and creams
Step 5. Create a soft foam with the brush
Dip the wet bristles into the cup and move the brush to whip up the foam; the more you shake it, the denser the foam becomes.
Step 6. Smear the foam on the hair
Use the brush to pick it up and apply it in circular motions to the areas you want to shave, making sure to cover every single hair. Once you have applied an adequate amount, you can smooth the layer with a few brush strokes.
Part 2 of 4: Shave
Step 1. Grab the base of the blade between your thumb and three fingers
You do not have to hold the razor by the handle, even if it is made of wood or plastic; instead put your thumb under the base, at the point where the blade engages on the handle, while the index, middle and ring fingers must be positioned on the opposite side. Finally, the little finger rests on the tang, the small piece of metal on the outside of the handle.
The one just described is the basic handle, which many people modify over time to improve comfort or control the direction of shaving
Step 2. Hold the blade at a 30 ° angle to the skin
It doesn't have to be flat or cut on the face; instead, tilt it slightly, so that the wire is facing down, while the handle should be close to the nose.
Step 3. Tighten the skin using the other hand
Start on one side of the face and use your free hand to keep the skin taut to flatten and smooth it; proceed in this way for each area you need to shave, as this precaution allows you to get a smoother shave with fewer scratches.
Step 4. Shave following the direction of the hair on the side of the face
Hold the razor at the appropriate angle and start at the top of the cheek. Since the hairs grow downward in this area, proceed by bringing the blade towards the jaw and chin; gently pass the razor in a fluid and controlled way, rinse the blade and continue from where you stopped. Rinse the blade after each stroke and do this for the other side of the face as well.
Even the most experienced make mistakes every now and then; you may risk cutting yourself at first, but don't be discouraged. Press the wound edges together for a few minutes to stop the bleeding or apply a powder or hemostatic pencil
Step 5. Shave the chin and upper lip part
The simplest way to proceed is to continue on the side of the face. In this area, the skin is easier to cut, so make slow and gentle passes as you approach the chin; tighten and tighten your lips when you shave around your mouth.
Step 6. Shave under the jaw and neck
Proceed on the rest of the face as you did on the sides; tilt your head back, stretch the skin of the jaw with your free hand and pass the blade downwards. Once you've trimmed your beard in this area, move towards your neck.
Step 7. Apply more foam and make a second pass across the direction of hair growth
Rinse your face and spread more foam as you did previously; this time, however, you have to shave from side to side. Press more gently than before and move the blade from the ears towards the center of the face; remember to rinse it after each stroke.
In the beginning, consider finishing the shave with a second down stroke; this way you get used to handling the blade without running further risk of cutting yourself
Step 8. Apply the lather again and finish with a final shave against the grain
Rinse your face again and add more foam using hot water and soap or shaving cream; this third pass guarantees a closer shave. Work from the bottom of the neck and be extremely gentle to avoid injury.
Step 9. Rinse your face with cold water
The low temperature moisturizes the skin and closes the pores; you can also apply an aftershave product such as witch hazel or bay rum to reduce irritation. Pat your skin dry instead of rubbing the water or lotion of your choice.
Step 10. Dry the razor
Scrub the blade with a soft cloth or toilet paper, which works just as well; the important thing is to remove all the moisture so that the metal does not rust. Store the shaver away from humid areas, including shower steam.
If you don't use the razor for a long time, apply oil, such as camellia oil, to the blade
Part 3 of 4: Refine the Blade with the Strop
Step 1. Hang the strop on a piece of furniture
Hanging models have a hook that you can attach to a solid surface, such as a nightstand or bathroom cabinet knob. After each shave or whetstone sharpening you should take the time to refine the razor with this tool to smooth the edges and achieve a better, more comfortable shave.
Between shaving you can use the canvas side, while after sharpening the leather side is more suitable
Step 2. Hold the blade handle on the far end of the strop and pull the strop with your free hand
Move the blade to the farthest point, grabbing it by the root and pointing the edge away from you.
Step 3. Rub the blade towards you
Make sure the strop is taut, otherwise you risk blunting the thread; slide the blade along the entire length of the leather strip bringing it closer to your body; apply light pressure and never lift the razor off the surface.
Step 4. Flip the blade over and proceed in the opposite direction
Turn it over on itself, avoiding that the cutting edge touches the strop. Now the thread must be facing you; run the blade along the entire strip to the end, just like you did before.
Step 5. Repeat the procedure until the blade becomes smooth
It usually takes about 30 passes, 15 on each side, however you shouldn't overdo it. At first, make slow, gentle movements; as you become familiar with the gesture you will be able to proceed more quickly and you will find that it does not take long.
Part 4 of 4: Sharpen the Blade
Step 1. Clean and lubricate the whetstone
First of all dry it to remove any residual dust and dirt, then lubricate it by covering it with cold water, oil or shaving foam to protect it from heat and other particles that could damage the blade.
- You can find whetstone, such as the Norton 4000/8000 Grit Combination, at hardware stores; don't choose a cheap one that you wouldn't use for a knife.
- Alternatively, you can use a ceramic barber sharpening bar that you find online on sites like eBay or Amazon, although it's not nearly as abrasive as whetstone.
Step 2. Place the stone on a surface with the coarser side facing up
Identify the side that has the least fine grain - this is the one you need to use to sharpen the razor correctly.
Step 3. Place the flat razor on the edge near you
Start on one of the short sides of the whetstone; the cutting edge and the blunt edge of the blade must touch the abrasive surface. Hold the edge of the blade away from your body and grasp the base of the blade with your fingertips; place a finger on the other hand to control the blade.
Step 4. Rub the blade along the whetstone
Use your fingers to apply some moderate, steady pressure. If the blade is wider than the stone, you need to move it a bit as you sharpen it; start at the base of the razor and slide it over the whetstone by pressing the top.
Step 5. Flip the razor over to the other side and swipe the blade in the other direction
Turn it over on its back avoiding that the thread touches the stone; this time make sure that the thread is facing you. Push the blade away from your body in the opposite direction to what you did before.
Step 6. Continue sharpening until the blade is sharp
You will have to pass it on the whetstone about 10 times in each direction, then try it by dragging it lightly on a damp nail; if it can cut without locking, it is sharp. Do not continue to sharpen an already sharp blade or you could damage it. Then finish it on the strop before shaving.
The blade maintains a correct sharpness for 6-8 weeks; finish it with the strop after each shave to keep it on edge until you need to sharpen it again
Advice
- Beginners should start with a 15mm razor, which ensures a perfect balance of control and precision.
- Getting a good shave with a freehand razor requires some familiarity, which you can learn over time. During the first few attempts you may encounter difficulties and risk cutting yourself; But keep trying and when you're ready, learn to wipe your face two or three times.
- Use pencil or hemostatic powder if you cut yourself; you can buy them at cosmetic stores or even ask your trusted barber.
- Replace the razor when it starts to pull on the skin or causes shaving abrasions. if your beard hair is thin or short, you can take care of your appearance with just one razor, but if your beard is thicker you will need to change it more frequently.
Warnings
- Never try to catch a falling razor. The slippery and sharp ones are the reason you should never shave in the shower.
- When proceeding with the third coat against the grain, pay particular attention to sensitive areas, such as the upper lip, as these places are very easy to cut the skin.
- Don't move the blade as if you were slicing - long, angled swipes are very effective when performed by people skilled in freehand razors, but a beginner should first become familiar with making short strokes.
- Close the razor before walking by holding it in your hand; you never have to take steps with an open razor.
