The Canon A-1 camera is a legendary device of the late 1970s, very influential and extremely sophisticated (for the time); it is a manual focus camera that, like many other 35mm cameras, can be bought at a very cheap price, and produces superb results. If you've bought or inherited one, it might be a little daunting to use at first if you're used to a point-and-shoot automatic digital camera. These simplified instructions will walk you through the basics of setting up and using an A-1.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Basic Preparation
Step 1. Insert the lens if you haven't done so already
The following steps show how to install the original FD lenses via a silver locking ring, the type that was usually sold with the camera body at the time. If your lens does not have one, it is a "new FD lens", produced since the late 1970s: in this case the instructions are slightly different; in the following directions, replace the part that explains how to turn the locking ring by turning the entire lens until it clicks into place.
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Image Remove the protective case if you have one, as well as the front lens cap.
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Image Line up the red dot on the lens with the red dot on the camera body and gently drop the lens into place.
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Image Turn the locking ring clockwise, of course if you are looking at it from the front. It won't snap into place, but it will get harder and harder. Don't over-tighten it, but make sure you secure it firmly in place.
Step 2. Turn on the camera
Turn the main switch from "L" to "A". The Canon manual recommends leaving it at "L" when not using the camera, in order to conserve the battery. You may not need to worry about this, especially if you are not using one of the Canon charge keys for the A-1; the important thing is to handle the camera carefully so as not to accidentally press the shutter button.
Step 3. Turn on the viewfinder display
This is a small lever near the ASA dial on the left side of the machine (if you are looking at it from behind). Turn it clockwise to reveal the white dot. Doing so will light up the display on your viewfinder.
Step 4. Open the viewfinder curtain
Quite unusual, the A-1 has a curtain on the viewfinder to stop direct light entering the viewfinder during long exposures, when the camera is mounted on a tripod. This is an interesting feature, but most of the time you won't need it. If you haven't already, turn the lever to the left of the viewfinder window clockwise to open the curtain.
Step 5. Check the battery
The A-1 is an electronically operated machine, and does not run on a low or dead battery; in this case the shutter will refuse to release. Press the battery test button (as shown). If the LED next to the shutter button is not blinking, then the battery is dead. If it is not blinking very quickly (several times per second), then it is nearly empty, and you should replace it. Get some cheap 4LR44 battery (also called A544) to replace it.
Step 6. Load the roll
Just like any other rear-loaded roll.
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Image Lift the roll rewind knob to open the back of the machine
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Image Place the film in its housing, and pull the roll guide until it fits into one of the slots, and so that the back of the guide hooks onto the roll of the roll conveyor.
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Image Close the back of the car, press the shutter and slide the roll. Repeat this until the frame counter shows that you are on the first pose. When you do, watch the rewind knob on the left as you slide the roll; this should spin as you wind, and if it doesn't, it probably means the roll hasn't been loaded properly.
Image Step 7. Set the speed of the roll
This is necessary for the automatic exposure to work properly. The roll speed dial is located around the rewind handle, and has a silver release button on its side as shown. Press it, then rotate the bezel to the same roll speed as the ASA (same as ISO).
Image Step 8. Set the aperture of the lens ring to "A"
In this way the opening will be set to be controlled by the machine; this is the setting you will use every time (unless you, for some reason, want to use fully manual exposures).
Step 9. You are ready to go out and take pictures
The next part of this guide will tell you how to best use the A-1.
Method 2 of 3: Taking Photographs with the A-1
Image Step 1. Find out the bezel of your AT
This is a bezel cover that sets the shutter speed or aperture. Slide it down to reveal the bezel. This is the most important camera control, so play around with it to get the feel of it ("AT ring" is a horrible term borrowed from Canon manuals for lack of a better word).
Step 2. Set the exposure mode
The A-1 has four modes that might interest you: Full Program AE (which is fully automatic), Shutter Priority AE, Aperture Priority AE, and Full Manual AE.
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Image The programmed AE will cause the camera to automatically set aperture and shutter speeds for you. Turn the mode dial to "Tv" ("Time value", which is Canon's silly name for "shutter priority"), and use the AT dial to select the green "P" as the shutter speed. Most of the time this is the setting you will use, if you don't want to use aperture for creative tricks with depth of field, or shutter speed for a creative effect; it generally works well, and produces something useful for most photos (unfortunately this is a 1978 camera; it is not possible to change the programming).
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Image The shutter-priority AE lets you select a shutter speed, after which the A-1 will choose the right aperture for you. If you need very fast or very slow shutter speeds to achieve a creative effect, this setting is for you. Rotate the dial to "Tv" mode and select a shutter speed. Remember that the numbers shown in yellow on the bezel correspond to speeds expressed in "seconds", while the white numbers correspond to speeds expressed in fractions of a second.
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Image The opening priority AE lets you select an aperture, after which the A-1 will select a shutter speed for you. Use this setting if you want to use very wide or very narrow apertures (for example, if you want to prefer creative control over depth of field). Turn the dial to "Av" mode and select an aperture with the AT dial to set the aperture priority AE.
Note that you won't be able to select apertures narrower than f / 22, but you shouldn't be doing that anyway.
- Fully manual exposure is the last resort to use. The A-1's meter will be functional up to EV-2, according to this page, which is several degrees darker than a typical street night scene, or other absent lighting conditions. You can select full manual mode by setting the dial to "Tv", selecting a shutter speed, and turning the lens aperture dial from "A" to the desired aperture. You will need an external brightness counter; the A-1 shows no indication of underexposure or overexposure in full manual mode.
Image Step 3. Look through the viewfinder and very gently press the shutter button halfway
The shutter speed and aperture (both can be selected automatically or not) will be shown on the viewfinder. If both parameters are flashing, it means that you have selected a shutter speed that is too slow or too fast for the camera's aperture range, or an aperture that requires a shutter speed that is too fast or slow compared to those available. As before, it could also mean you're trying to take a photo with lighting levels that are outside the A-1's meter range, although this is a less common situation. In these cases, select a different aperture, or a different shutter speed.
Step 4. Focus
The A-1 features two focusing aids to ensure your shots are sharp. One is the "split" of the image, right in the center, which divides the image into two halves, which line up when the image is in focus. The other (more useful) aid is a microprismatic ring that goes around the split screen. When the image is out of focus, this area will blink and show a "dashed" pattern. Rotate the focus ring until the image is no longer divided, or until the image in the microprism is visibly sharp.
Image Step 5. Set Exposure Compensation if needed
This feature of the A-1 forces the camera to overexpose or underexpose your shot by a set amount; it will serve you a lot in low or inconsistent lighting conditions. Press the button to unlock the exposure compensation dial and rotate it to get the desired value (you can find this by trying to increase 1/3 each time). Turning clockwise will increase underexposure, while counterclockwise will increase overexposure. In reality, the exposure compensation dial is annoying and difficult to handle with one hand, so you may find it useless. The ASA ring, on the other hand, can be moved with the tip of a finger. None of these dials show any indication (except the one written above them) that you are overexposing or underexposing too much, but the ASA has the advantage of being easier to use. It is up to you to choose between the two.
Step 6. Press the shutter button
The viewfinder will turn white for a moment, and the shutter will release. If you use one of the optional automatic rewinders, the film will advance by itself to the next shot, otherwise you will have to rewind it manually. Continue to photograph until the last pose. Pay no attention to the shot counter; you will find that you have reached the end when the rewinder is too difficult - or impossible - to move (don't force it!), or when your automatic rewinder (if you have one) refuses to turn any further.
Method 3 of 3: Remove the Film Roll
Image Step 1. Press the rewind and release button on the camera base
Image Step 2. Pull the lever on the rewind knob and turn it clockwise to fit the roll back into its case
The shot indicator will rewind as you rewind. Keep rewinding until the stick gets stiff, and then suddenly it starts spinning much more freely. When this happens, it means that the roller is free from the transport spool. Wrap it up a little more if you want.
Step 3. Open the back of the camera by lifting the rewind knob
Remove the film and take it to develop. Load up another tape and keep enjoying this classic and superb camera!
Advice
- Under certain circumstances, when you stop the lens, the machine may jam. Don't be afraid: to remedy this problem, simply press the double exposure lever, and step forward one frame to reset the camera. Many good A-1 machines have been replaced with junk due to this small manufacturing defect.
- If you want to buy a second-hand A-1, try a few shots first. This machine is famous for having the bolt squeak due to lack of or old lubrication. The problem can be solved in a good repair center, but it will cost you a lot.
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Image Check that the shutter is working before inserting a film. Among other problems, oil can seep from various internal mechanisms and stick the shutter curtains together, which may fail to separate at high shutter speeds. In TV mode, open the back of the camera, set the shutter speed to 1/500 or 1/1000, point the camera at a very bright light source and take a couple of photos while looking through the shutter. If you don't see light passing through the shutter curtains (however briefly), then you've fallen victim to this problem. Take it to a professional to have it repaired - the bravest or reckless can try cleaning it with a cotton swab soaked in petrol… Good luck!
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