In the age of digital cameras it may seem strange to learn how to use an "obsolete" 35mm camera. But there are still many people who choose film for artistic reasons and beyond. Digital cameras have now dominated the market, except for landscape photography only, and you can find great analog cameras at the lowest prices ever. Many would like to use analog machines, but they are afraid of them. Maybe you inherited an old car from someone and don't know what to do with it. This guide will explain some of the peculiarities of analog machines that have disappeared with modern automatic machines.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Preparation
Step 1. Look at the main camera controls
Not all of them will have the controls listed below, and maybe some will have none, so don't worry if you don't find some of these things on your machine. It is good to learn these concepts because they will also be covered later in the article.
- There shutter ring controls the opening speed of the same, that is the time for which the film is exposed to light. Most modern machines, from the 1960s onwards, will show this value in regular increments such as 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, etc. Older cameras sometimes use stranger and seemingly arbitrary values.
- There aperture ring check the width of the opening of the same. The diaphragm is a mechanism placed in front of the lens. The values on the bezel are usually expressed in standard numbers and almost all cameras have f / 8 and f / 11 values. In most cameras the diaphragm is on the lens, but some reflex cameras from the 1980s onwards allow it to be controlled from the camera body. Some systems, such as the Canon EOS, do not have an aperture control. A larger aperture (i.e. a smaller number, the value expressed being the ratio of aperture to focal length) means a smaller depth of field (a smaller portion of the scene will be in focus) and a greater exposure of the film to light. A smaller aperture, on the other hand, will let in less light, and will give a greater depth of field. For example, with a 50mm lens with a focus at 2.4 meters, at an aperture of f / 5.6, the portion of the scene in focus will be between 2.4 meters and 2.4 meters. At an aperture of f / 16, anything between 1.4 and 18.3 meters will be in focus.
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There ISO ring, which could also be written ASA, is used to set the speed of the film. In some cases it is not in the form of a ring, but of a button. Be that as it may, this is a necessary adjustment for machines with an automatic exposure adjustment mechanism, as different films require different exposures. For example, an ISO 50 film requires twice as long exposure as an ISO 100 film.
On some machines this adjustment is not necessary; on some it is not even available. The most recent analog reflex cameras recognize the speed of the film thanks to some electrical contacts positioned on the roll. If your machine has electrical contacts inside the film housing, then it is a DX. This system is usually reliable, so you can avoid worrying about it.
- The mode selector. It is used to set various automatic exposure modes. It is common on fully automated electronic SLRs from the 1980s onwards. Unfortunately, for each brand the modes are indicated with different symbols, so if on the Nikon the shutter priority mode is named "S", on the Canon it is called "Tv". We will learn more about this later, for the moment keep the ring on "P", which means automatic program.
- The focus ring is used to focus the frame. Distances are often indicated on the bezel in both feet and meters, plus the "∞" symbol, for infinity focus. Some cameras, such as the Olympus Trip 35, have focus points marked with small symbols.
- The roll release button allows you to rewind the film. Normally, while the machine is in use, the film is anchored so that it can only move forward without rewinding into the roll, for obvious reasons. The roll release button unlocks this mechanism. It usually consists of a small button on the bottom of the camera, slightly recessed into the camera body. On some particular machines the mechanism is different and the button is located in other places.
- There rewind lever rewinds the film in the roll. It is usually located on the left side of the chamber and, in most cases, consists of a small retractable lever. Some motorized machines do not have this mechanism and the roll rewinds itself or with a special switch.
Step 2. Change the battery, if your car has one
Most 35mm SLR batteries are cheap, don't have proprietary formats like most digital cameras, and last a very long time. Replace the battery on your car. Some older cameras use 1.35 volt PX-625 mercury batteries, which are very difficult to find nowadays, and do not have a voltage regulator circuit to be able to use the most popular 1.5 volt batteries. You can solve this problem by trial and error, by taking a roll of photos to see if the exposure is off, and adjust accordingly, or you can connect a 675 button battery with a piece of wire in the battery compartment.
Step 3. Check that there is no film already inserted
It's a pretty common mistake: you grab the camera, open the back door and discover that there was a roll of film inside, ruining a portion of the film. Try sliding the film instead, press the shutter button if it's stuck. If your camera has a rewind lever or knob on one side, you'll see it spinning - how to do this on motorized machines without the rewind lever is an exercise for the reader.
Step 4. Upload your film
Although 35mm rolls are designed to withstand light, it is always a good idea to avoid direct exposure to sunlight. Mount the film indoors, or at least in the shade. There are two different ways to do this, but more likely you will only encounter one:
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Rear loading. Rear-loading machines are the simplest and most common. They have a rear door that opens to access the film compartment. Sometimes, especially on SLR machines, the door opens by raising the rewind lever. Other cameras will have a special lever. Insert the film into its housing (usually on the left side) and pull out the beginning of the film. Sometimes you will have to slide the garment into a slot in the right spool, while on other machines you will simply have to line up the film to a colored mark.
After doing this, close the door. Some cameras automatically wind the film up to the first shot, otherwise it takes two or three blank photos. If you have a shot counter, press the shutter button until it hits zero. Some older cameras count backwards, so you'll have to manually set the counter to the number of shots on the film. Use the procedure described in the previous step to verify the correct mounting of the film.
- Bottom loading. Bottom loading machines such as the early Leica, Zorki, Fed and Zenit are rarer and also more complicated to use. You will need to physically cut the end of the film. Mark Tharp excellently described the process on his page:
Step 5. Set the film speed
Usually you have to set the speed of the roll. However, some cameras over- or under-expose the film to some degree, so you'll need to take test shots to find the right setting.
Part 2 of 2: Shoot
Once the car is ready you can go out and start taking pictures. On older cameras you will have to manually adjust all those settings that digital cameras handle automatically.
Step 1. Focus
Let's start here because some older cameras need to lock the aperture to set the adjustments, so the viewfinder is much darker and it's harder to see if the frame is in focus or not.
- The machines with autofocus, popular since the mid-1980s, are the easiest to use. If there is no focus ring, or if there is a manual / auto switch, then your camera has autofocus. You will only have to press the shutter button halfway to adjust the focus. When the focus is complete (usually marks appear in the viewfinder, or an annoying beep) you can take the picture. Fortunately, most, if not all, autofocus cameras also have automatic exposure adjustment. In this case you can skip the next step on setting the exposure.
- The manual reflex they are a little more complicated to use. SLRs (single lens reflex, or single lens reflex) can be recognized by the "hump" around the viewfinder and the pentaprism. Turn the focus ring until you get a sharp image. Most manual SLRs have two systems to facilitate this. The first is the split screen, right in the center of the viewfinder. The two images line up when the frame is in focus. The other is a prismatic circle around the central circle, which highlights the blurs. A small number of cameras will also have a focus confirmation light. Learn to use these tools if they are present.
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Rangefinder reflex. These are also quite easy to use. Coupled rangefinder cameras show two images of the same frame in the viewfinder, one of which moves as you turn the focus ring. When the two images coincide, merging into a single frame, the image is in focus.
Some older rangefinder cameras don't have a paired viewfinder. If this is the case you will need to find the right distance with the rangefinder and report the value on the focus ring.
- The optical viewfinder reflex they look similar to the rangefinder, but they do not give information on the distance to the subject. You can use an external rangefinder or assess the distance to the subject of the photo by eye and report the value on the focus ring.
Step 2. Set the exposure
Remember that older SLRs have limited exposure meters, which only read a small portion in the center of the frame. If the subject of the photo is not in the center, point it into the frame, measure the exposure, and then return to the desired frame. The settings for good exposure vary from one camera to another.
- The automatic reflex cameras they are the simplest to use. If your camera doesn't have aperture and shutter speed control it's probably automatic. Many compact cameras are, the most famous being the Olympus Trip-35. The machine may also have an "automatic" or "program" mode. Using it you will certainly have less problems. Modern canons and Nikons, for example, have a dial with a "P" for auto mode. If you have that option, set the meter to "Matrix" or "Evaluative" and enjoy.
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Aperture-priority automatic SLRs, such as the Canon AV-1, will allow you to set an aperture and then automatically choose the shutter speed. For most of these cameras it is sufficient to set an aperture appropriate to the amount of light present, or to the depth of field you want to obtain, and the camera will do the rest. Of course, you won't have to choose an aperture that requires a slower or faster shutter speed than the camera itself allows.
If circumstances allow (you must avoid a photo that is too dark or a field that is too deep), do not take photos with the maximum aperture, and do not squeeze beyond f / 11. Almost all lenses are more accurate closed than fully open, and all are limited by diffraction at minimum aperture.
- Shutter-priority automatic SLRs (sometimes both options are present) will allow you to choose the shutter speed instead, and the camera will automatically set the aperture. Select the speed based on the light and possibly the motion effect you want to give to the photo. Obviously, the exposure time will have to be long enough for the camera to select an appropriate aperture, but also fast enough not to blur if the grip is manual.
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The manual reflex require setting both the aperture and shutter speed. Most of them will have a scale visible in the viewfinder that indicates whether the photo is over or underexposed. If the line is above half the photo is overexposed, if it falls below half it is underexposed. You can operate the meter by pressing the shutter button halfway. Some cameras, such as the Praktica L series, have a dedicated scale for this (which blocks the lens). Set the aperture or shutter speed, or both, as needed, until the indicator stays roughly in the middle. If you're shooting on a negative (as opposed to a slide), you can stay a little over halfway. Negatives have a much greater tolerance to overexposure.
If the viewfinder does not have a light meter you will need to use a special table, or memorize it, or an external light meter. You can also use another digital camera for this. Even an old compact digital is fine, as long as it shows the light meter reading in the viewfinder. Remember that you will then have to apply any compensations on the machine. Alternatively you can use an App to turn your smartphone into a light meter, for example Photography Assistant for Android..
Step 3. Correct the shot and take the photo
The artistic elements needed to compose a good photograph are beyond the scope of this guide, but you will find other useful tips by reading this article and this one.
Step 4. Continue taking pictures until you run out of roll
You will understand that you have reached the bottom when the film no longer advances (for machines with automatic advance), or when the advance begins to strain (do not press any further). The roll does not necessarily end when it reaches 24 or 36 photos (or those indicated on the roll). Some cameras allow you to take 4 extra photos. Once you're done, you'll need to rewind the roll. Some motorized cameras do this automatically when the film is finished, others will have their own switch. If the machine is manual, press the release button, then turn the rewind lever in the direction shown (usually clockwise). You will find that towards the end of the roll the lever will become harder to turn, then it will suddenly turn freely. At this point you can close the lever and open the rear flap.
Step 5. Get the film developed
If you shoot on a negative you can still find someone developing photos almost everywhere. Slide film and black and white film require a very different process. You can ask your local photography shop if you are having trouble finding a developer.
Step 6. Check if the film has exposure problems
See if there are any photos below or overexposed. All films tend to be dark when underexposed. Those for slides then, if overexposed, are very evident. If you have not done something wrong (for example the light meter activated on the wrong part of the frame) it means that there is a problem in your light meter or that the shutter is not accurate. Manually set the ISO (film speed) as described above to correct the problem. For example, if the film was underexposed at ISO 400, try setting it to ISO 200.
Step 7. Replace the roll and try again
Perfection can only be achieved with experience. Go out and take as many photos as you can afford, and don't forget to share your results with the world!
Advice
- If you are not using a tripod try to avoid setting a shutter speed slower than the reciprocal value of the focal length of the lens. For example, if you have a 50mm lens, you shouldn't use a speed below 1/50 of a second, unless it's really necessary.
- Do not force the elements of the machine. If something is not moving you may be doing the wrong motion, or there may be something broken. Certainly the repair will cost less if you avoid making the problem worse by breaking the offending piece. For example, on many cameras the shutter speed can only be adjusted after locking it, often by advancing the film if the shutter is placed in the camera body, or with a lever if it is in a lens that is not mechanically attached to the camera body. camera body, as in the case of bellows cameras.
- Undoubtedly there are rare cameras that have peculiarities not described in this article. Fortunately, manuals for a huge variety of older cameras can be found in Michael Butkus' archive. You can also find aficionados in old photography shops. Sometimes their markups are higher, but it's worth it.
